You don't have to take the steering wheel off to get the cluster out, just pull it as far forward and down as it will go. Then pull the black plastic trim off from between the mode and check buttons, and it will reveal 2 torx screws (sorry, can't remember the size) quite far back which hold the cluster in place: remove these. Then open the drivers door and pull off the end-trim which hides the fuses and you should be able to put your hand in behind the cluster and push it out from the back. There are a few sharp bits in behind there and if you're not careful (like I wasn't) you might scratch your arm up pretty badly if it's a bit reluctant to pop out! Once it does come free though, and semi-out, remove the two multi-plugs which connect it to the car electronics and hey-presto.
As for then prising off the front to get inside, I haven't done that bit but I read somewhere that the plastic outer cover is held in with clips, so it shouldn't be too tricky. Hope this helps!
Cheers,
Ade