Door card removal?
- Thread starter coyote
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AndyMac
Retired from service
Prise off the trim piece, working from the furthest point from the door hinge.
This reveals the main screws detailed below.
Even with all the screws removed (there's one right at the bottom as well) the door card is still held on with pop fasteners. Worthwhile getting some replacements from your dealer before you start as these babies are designed to break when you pop the door card off. Working from the bottom release the fasteners, the top corner is the hardest as there are 2 close together.
This reveals the main screws detailed below.
Even with all the screws removed (there's one right at the bottom as well) the door card is still held on with pop fasteners. Worthwhile getting some replacements from your dealer before you start as these babies are designed to break when you pop the door card off. Working from the bottom release the fasteners, the top corner is the hardest as there are 2 close together.
Andy, are the speakers screwed or riveted in? I want to remove mine and Dynamat behind them as I get a little rattle from the NSF sometimes.
I know the doors have a pad on them but it can't hurt to put a bit more in :thumbsup:
I know the doors have a pad on them but it can't hurt to put a bit more in :thumbsup:
AndyMac
Retired from service
They're screwed in (Torx IIRC). Unfortunately you can't really get in behind them though as there's only a small hole behind the speaker, so Dynamatting the outer door skin is impossible, you can only do the inner.
Sorry to drag an old topic up 
This happened to me:
It's not been possible to pull the switch up through the hole as the fit is too tight, so the doorcard will have to come off.
Andymac's guide is brilliant, but for a front door. I can only find 4 screws as shown below, the three under the trim strip, and the one under the arm. And even having removed these four the door card holds fast.
I have punched a small hole through the lower door trim looking for the elusive fifth screw but to no avail! Before I enlarge the hole and have a better look is anyone able to confirm there is definitely a screw there?
Having removed the four screws the card remains held fast which I assume is from the studs. Before I rip it off has anyone got the part number for the studs and I will order some up?
This happened to me:
It's not been possible to pull the switch up through the hole as the fit is too tight, so the doorcard will have to come off.
Andymac's guide is brilliant, but for a front door. I can only find 4 screws as shown below, the three under the trim strip, and the one under the arm. And even having removed these four the door card holds fast.
I have punched a small hole through the lower door trim looking for the elusive fifth screw but to no avail! Before I enlarge the hole and have a better look is anyone able to confirm there is definitely a screw there?
Having removed the four screws the card remains held fast which I assume is from the studs. Before I rip it off has anyone got the part number for the studs and I will order some up?
coyote
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James.
Sounds to me like all that is holding the card on tight now is the pop fasteners as shown in Andys pics. You have to pull the door card off now breaking these fasteners. It will feel like it doesnt want to budge at the start so you gotta man up and use some brute force
....Oh and get down the stealers to buy some more fasteners.
Good luck mate
Sounds to me like all that is holding the card on tight now is the pop fasteners as shown in Andys pics. You have to pull the door card off now breaking these fasteners. It will feel like it doesnt want to budge at the start so you gotta man up and use some brute force
....Oh and get down the stealers to buy some more fasteners.
Good luck mate
Cheers mate
Can you remember how many fasteners there were? I will hold off until I'm in possession of replacements.
Is there definitely a screw buried away in the very bottom of the door card?
Can you remember how many fasteners there were? I will hold off until I'm in possession of replacements.
Is there definitely a screw buried away in the very bottom of the door card?
coyote
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I cant remember how many you need but I bought loads - they were only a few pence each.
Oh and there is no screw there. Im sure you just need to pull now. When you have one side of the card off you may aswell take a look-see behind it to double check nothing else is holding it.
Oh and there is no screw there. Im sure you just need to pull now. When you have one side of the card off you may aswell take a look-see behind it to double check nothing else is holding it.
Thanks, I will get on to pjmspeedy lol
I'm not looking forward to pulling it off (so to speak lol) - when I gave the card a test pull it seemed pretty firm still!
I'm not looking forward to pulling it off (so to speak lol) - when I gave the card a test pull it seemed pretty firm still!
Thanks for the part number and the offer of the fasteners. I'm not in any hurry to do it (putting it off ... ? Lol.... ) so will just wait until I have some clips :thumbsup:
Garfie
Registered User
James, I've just tinted my rear door windows on my avant as this is how the rear door cards come off:
Remove door trim strip and remove the screws behind it (as above).
Remove screw in hole under arm rest/handle. It's a phillips and it can be a pain to locate, just keep the screwdriver as horizontal as you can as you insert it in the hole in the armrest and you should find it eventually.
If you have rear window winders instead of electrics (so doesnt apply to you James) you need to slide the top cover off the winder (dont try prising it off) then undo the screw beneath the cover. The winder handle will then pull off the shaft, note there is a black plastic washer there too that needs retrieving.
The next bit involves squeezing your fingers under and behind the bottom of the door card to be able to pull it sharply towards you. If you cant get your fingers in far enough then try and get them behind the door card each side about a third of the way up (you may need to work your way up from the bottom) and stretch the door card outwards, this will pull out the locating tabs at the side of the door car and allow you to get your fingers futher behind it to get a better hand hold. When you can get a good hand hold, pull the bottom of the door card towards you sharply, there's one of those black clips at the bottom that will either come out or more likely snap off (hence the need for replacements). The bottom should now be loose.
Now working your way up the door card snap off/pull out the remaining clips at the top (think its 2 each side) plus there are 2 white plastic smaller clips, these are located at the top of the door card (about an inch down) and are at each end of the door card.
When all the clips are out its a case of wiggling the rest of the top of the door card from the window seal. Then when its off, disconnect the door handle pull wire and wiring loom.
Replacement is reverse of removal. You will need to replace anywhere up to all five of the black clips and maybe one or two of the white ones too so get spares. I've not removed one yet without breaking at least a couple of black ones and the odd white one.
Also, make sure you remember to reconnect the loom and handle pull wire, and locate the tabs on the sides of the door card before bashing the door card back on the door otherwise you have to take it off again and replace yet more clips!!
Black clips are 8E0 868 243 (5 I think per rear door)
White clips are 8E0 867 276 (2 per rear door)
Remove door trim strip and remove the screws behind it (as above).
Remove screw in hole under arm rest/handle. It's a phillips and it can be a pain to locate, just keep the screwdriver as horizontal as you can as you insert it in the hole in the armrest and you should find it eventually.
If you have rear window winders instead of electrics (so doesnt apply to you James) you need to slide the top cover off the winder (dont try prising it off) then undo the screw beneath the cover. The winder handle will then pull off the shaft, note there is a black plastic washer there too that needs retrieving.
The next bit involves squeezing your fingers under and behind the bottom of the door card to be able to pull it sharply towards you. If you cant get your fingers in far enough then try and get them behind the door card each side about a third of the way up (you may need to work your way up from the bottom) and stretch the door card outwards, this will pull out the locating tabs at the side of the door car and allow you to get your fingers futher behind it to get a better hand hold. When you can get a good hand hold, pull the bottom of the door card towards you sharply, there's one of those black clips at the bottom that will either come out or more likely snap off (hence the need for replacements). The bottom should now be loose.
Now working your way up the door card snap off/pull out the remaining clips at the top (think its 2 each side) plus there are 2 white plastic smaller clips, these are located at the top of the door card (about an inch down) and are at each end of the door card.
When all the clips are out its a case of wiggling the rest of the top of the door card from the window seal. Then when its off, disconnect the door handle pull wire and wiring loom.
Replacement is reverse of removal. You will need to replace anywhere up to all five of the black clips and maybe one or two of the white ones too so get spares. I've not removed one yet without breaking at least a couple of black ones and the odd white one.
Also, make sure you remember to reconnect the loom and handle pull wire, and locate the tabs on the sides of the door card before bashing the door card back on the door otherwise you have to take it off again and replace yet more clips!!
Black clips are 8E0 868 243 (5 I think per rear door)
White clips are 8E0 867 276 (2 per rear door)
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Top man! Thanks very much for that!
I'm going to order up the clips before I start it, so those clip numbers are useful too. All I need to do is hopefully be able to get an arm in from underneath to push the electric window switch back into the hole! If I didn't have rear electric windows then I wouldn't need to be doing this at all!!
Cheers :thumbsup:
I'm going to order up the clips before I start it, so those clip numbers are useful too. All I need to do is hopefully be able to get an arm in from underneath to push the electric window switch back into the hole! If I didn't have rear electric windows then I wouldn't need to be doing this at all!!
Cheers :thumbsup:
Garfie
Registered User
No worries mate. Got a feeling you will end up removing the whole door card to get enough room though to push the switch back in and replace the clips though.
vrbob
Thats no Moon, Thats a space station!
Do you have to remove the door cards to get at the tweeters as the 2 on the drivers side of my car are i think crackling a bit in the mid range as they have probably been blown so i will want to replace them at some point.
AndyMac
Retired from service
vrbob
Thats no Moon, Thats a space station!
Doh!
Ok well that job can wait a bit then. Although if anyone knows the tweeter part number for a B6 that would be helpful in sourcing some replacements. I have the Non-Bose setup.
Ok well that job can wait a bit then. Although if anyone knows the tweeter part number for a B6 that would be helpful in sourcing some replacements. I have the Non-Bose setup.
Garfie
Registered User
I can get one for you tonight mate, have replaced my standard tweeters and mids with uprated ones so the stock ones are sitting on the bench in my garage. Mine is a 1.9 TDi Avant Sport with no Bose so should be the same as yours.
Any yes as above you need the whole door card off to access them.
Any yes as above you need the whole door card off to access them.
vrbob
Thats no Moon, Thats a space station!
Cheers Garfie yours is basically the same as my car so defo should be the right parts, If you can let me know the part numbers i can keep my eye out on Ebay for some.
Or if the ones you took out of your car are still good how much would you want for a couple inc P+P??
Or if the ones you took out of your car are still good how much would you want for a couple inc P+P??
Garfie
Registered User
vrbob, part number is 8E0 035 399 for both sides mate.
Would sell them to you if I had no use for them but when I eventually come to sell the car my ice will come out and the standard stuff will go back in again.
Would sell them to you if I had no use for them but when I eventually come to sell the car my ice will come out and the standard stuff will go back in again.
vrbob
Thats no Moon, Thats a space station!
No worries garfie n cheers for the part number.
I have had a quick sound check today with the car and to be honest i am now maybe under the impression that the door speakers and tweeters are pretty crap and rather than crackling just arn't producing a great sound. So out of interest what is the best aftemarket replacment item for the door speakers and tweeters preferably on the lower end of the price spectrum.
Oh and sorry to hijack this thread a little too
I have had a quick sound check today with the car and to be honest i am now maybe under the impression that the door speakers and tweeters are pretty crap and rather than crackling just arn't producing a great sound. So out of interest what is the best aftemarket replacment item for the door speakers and tweeters preferably on the lower end of the price spectrum.
Oh and sorry to hijack this thread a little too
Just as an aside, and some thing I need to do to mine fairly soon. Where the wires go through the rubber sleeve between the door and the body they are prone to fracturing, in both my passanger doors this is currently causing intermittment speakers - worth a check before you replace all speakers maybe?
vrbob
Thats no Moon, Thats a space station!
fourcircle
nj
thread ressurection!
James, how did you fix the wiring in the door? I'd be wise to check mine when I'm changing door cards I think as the driver's side is iffy.
vrbob, what speakers did you end up with out of interest?
James, how did you fix the wiring in the door? I'd be wise to check mine when I'm changing door cards I think as the driver's side is iffy.
vrbob, what speakers did you end up with out of interest?
AndyMac
Retired from service
Just for info there's 5 or 6 black clips on each doorcard, but you won't break all of them, some will be reusable.
The missing screw at the bottom of the doorcard is usually evidence the doorcard has been removed before and they didn't remove this screw and just ripped the doorcard off with the screw still in place. So you will find it underneath.
Any 6.5" components will fit in the stock locations but you will need adapters as the stock speakers stand off the inner door skin by about 45mm. If you have Bose then you can separate the speaker from the spacer, but then with Bose you need very low impedance replacements otherwise you will halve the power from the Bose amp. With non Bose you need to buy spacer/adapters or you can destroy the stock speaker and reuse the spacer it was moulded into.
The missing screw at the bottom of the doorcard is usually evidence the doorcard has been removed before and they didn't remove this screw and just ripped the doorcard off with the screw still in place. So you will find it underneath.
Any 6.5" components will fit in the stock locations but you will need adapters as the stock speakers stand off the inner door skin by about 45mm. If you have Bose then you can separate the speaker from the spacer, but then with Bose you need very low impedance replacements otherwise you will halve the power from the Bose amp. With non Bose you need to buy spacer/adapters or you can destroy the stock speaker and reuse the spacer it was moulded into.
fourcircle
nj
Cheers Andy,
slightly side tracking... are the bose speakers any good if I was to upgrade from my standard speakers? I'd need the speakers and separate amp is that right? But the rear plastic sub woofer thingy remains the same? Or is that complete and utter ********? I don't really know if bose or aftermarket would be best as an upgrade?
I'll be getting James to send a full set of plastic clips in case I destroy all of them somehow. Surely whoever buys my cloth sports seats and cars will want a few clips anyway for their swapover.
slightly side tracking... are the bose speakers any good if I was to upgrade from my standard speakers? I'd need the speakers and separate amp is that right? But the rear plastic sub woofer thingy remains the same? Or is that complete and utter ********? I don't really know if bose or aftermarket would be best as an upgrade?
I'll be getting James to send a full set of plastic clips in case I destroy all of them somehow. Surely whoever buys my cloth sports seats and cars will want a few clips anyway for their swapover.
Turkster
W.Bro.Paul 2.0d Q5 Quattro
fourcircle
nj
I haven't even got round to taking the rear door card off to refit the electric window switch yet.... I need to do it soon as my daughter keeps posting things down it and it's nearly full!
I need to order some heatshrink and then I can do the broken wires in the hinge at the same time.
I need to order some heatshrink and then I can do the broken wires in the hinge at the same time.
fourcircle
nj
mmmm... just think of the collection of little bits of biscuit etc that's been down there for 2 years
Is it easy enough to identify the broken wires? My concern is that the strands are broken within intact plastic, making it ****** hard to find. I guess the old "wobble the wires while the radio is on" method will be employed here
Is it easy enough to identify the broken wires? My concern is that the strands are broken within intact plastic, making it ****** hard to find. I guess the old "wobble the wires while the radio is on" method will be employed here
AndyMac
Retired from service
Aftermarket will always be better than Bose, that's not really up for debate To retrofit Bose is a lot of work, full wiring loom front to back, all speaker wiring replaced (along with all speakers), and yes the sub is different as well. For that you will get a small improvement, nothing dramatic. Going aftermarket, you will get a big improvement and you can do it gradually.
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fourcircle
nj
Thanks to Noel for bumping this and pushing me to do it at last.
That's the key! Only two tabs broke so not too bad. Numerous hairbands and assorted goodies removed from door skin and window switch replaced!
Also gave me the incentive to buy my puddle lights and wire them in now I can see how easy it is.
you gotta man up and use some brute force
That's the key! Only two tabs broke so not too bad. Numerous hairbands and assorted goodies removed from door skin and window switch replaced!
Also gave me the incentive to buy my puddle lights and wire them in now I can see how easy it is.
fourcircle
nj
well done that man. hmmm. puddle lights... I could justify a seriously long list of jobs while i'm doing my door cards and seats you know. I might have to book a week off work at this rate.
Silly question time... Sorry...
How would i know if mine is the Bose setup? Big writting on the headunit?
Im going to fit a new handle to the driver door also. Old one was tatty so got a replacement off fleabay
Problem is that my old one has 2 window switches for the front and new has 4 (front and rear)
Can i just plug this right in and it work with just the front windows?
(im hoping for a yes :thumbsup
How would i know if mine is the Bose setup? Big writting on the headunit?
Im going to fit a new handle to the driver door also. Old one was tatty so got a replacement off fleabay
Problem is that my old one has 2 window switches for the front and new has 4 (front and rear)
Can i just plug this right in and it work with just the front windows?
(im hoping for a yes :thumbsup
If you've got Bose the speakers will have a small Bose badge on them, and BOSE will come up on the HU display when you turn it on.
Cheers James
I obviously dont have Bose
Do you know about the changing of the window switch panel?
AndyMac
Retired from service
Yes you can just plug the loom into a 4 switch panel and it'll work. I have this in my B6 from when I swapped the interior cloth to leather, as the switches were in better nick than the ones I took out.
