Update : Fitted 710N valve & N75J valve!!!

J7USS

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Well I managed to fit my 2 valves today as they arrived from Vagparts....What can I say :rockwoot:My ride has been transformed further!!

Well after research I decided to go through the "Fitting it from above" channel and yes my hands have suffered a war but well well worth it.

It took me 2 1/2hrs as I had to clean off some oily pipes, The main pipe that goes into the turbo was loose which I suspect was my problem regarding the lack of turbo power. Apart from my nosey neighbour and his stammer making a "quick word" into 20mins conversation everything went pretty well. I now know why small hands are required:yes: as it was ****** awkward (ouch).

Ive heard all sorts of results both good and crap with these N75J valves and I can say, so far so good.

So what did i benefit.....

Well soon as I started the motor, It was making some funky Clicking noises, Few High Pitched frequency noises then the idle went a little weird but 20 seconds or so it sounded normal again - Phew!!!!!!

Then Soon as I gave it a rev before reversing off my drive, Something felt different. - I read on some posts that just this Valve makes your car feel alot smoother in Acceleration, Gear changes etc which I thought was strange as how could a Valve do this....weird BUT very true, Soon as I rev'd it, It felt better, Sounded different too.
Anyway Took it for a Spin and Wow, I was gobsmacked, Why didnt I do this from the word GO, The 1st and 2nd gear was well noticabley better then 3rd -Oh my gosh, was transformed too.

Basically Folks, If you have the opportunity to upgrade your valves then Do it, Best £70 odd ive ever spent, Works well with my remap.

One thing I did find that the old valve which I took off was already a 710N but I still replaced it whilst everything was off. The N75 does face the opposite way which was a little b**ch with fitting the pipes back on.

The turbo is giving off a lovely note now, Not too loud though and has a nice discreet Suction noise.

Put it this way, Im well chuffed as you might have already worked out. The drive is alot smoother, Sounds smoother too. Even the between gear changes are better and low rev turbo response is alot sharper. Dont do the odd "frog hop" anymore either.

If anyone needs advice on how to fit yours I can give you a break down.

A Big:icon_thumright: Defo upgrade that you 4ringers should think about.

Ill shut up waffling on now.:salute:
 
So I take it your please with the valves (wonder what gave me that idea), glad theyve made an impact and yes it is something I am gonna consider, afterall its a small price (apart from labour) to pay for for such an improvement. Dont think I'll tackle it myself, I'll let the garage do it when cars in for a service and fan belt change next couple of months.
 
well done mate, it made a huge difference on my Golf turbo! Held boost better and with the re-map helped the car to fly.

Happy days dude! :arco:
 
any more info on these valves guys? i.e what do they do etc, do u need to have a certain engine type to fit the valves?
 
Geforce will point you in the right direction with a few of his magic links!!!

Been out in it today for a play, Just got to give it a blast on the Motorway now...
 
Oh n yes the 710n valve is a diverter valve for your turbo, Its a revised Bosch unit. The N75J valve is what communicates with your ecu and tells the Wastegate on your turbo to stop being a tight git and give you some more boost without overdoing it......:think:I think.

Is that right Gforce????
 
Hi Guys,

The N75J valve determines how much boost is held by the diverter valve. On chipped car and even std, the increased boost needs a little more control to be smooth. The N75J not only lets the boost peak a little higher, but it also helps get rid of surging. Works very well with chipped or re-mapped cars.


see link
http://www.peterbeers.net/vw_roadtrip/GTI/GTI_Mods/N75J/N75J.htm

The DV or diverter Valve is made from plastic with a diaphram (Bosch 710n I think) the diaphram can split and can cause a loss in performance.

Worth replacing with a Forge 007p valve which I did on my last Golf 1.8T.
 
also.........
Forgot to say it's a wastegate regulator for the 1.8T motors and commonly referred to as the N75 valve. It is a direct replacement, factory upgrade for the stock 1.8T N75 valve. Known internally as the “J” valve, it is known to transform “chipped” cars by smoothing out the annoying surging that many aftermarket chips are known for. Borrowed from the 225 hp Audi TT, it has been known to see a 2 psi boost increase on a bone stock 1.8T simply by upgrading to this valve but then people do make claims! I have heard it can send some 1.8t's into limp mode due to over boosting.



Below is a pic of the N75J valve
N75_J_big.jpg
 
Mcgough said:
what about on a 1.9 tdi engine??

Yes I am pretty sure TDI's also have a N75 valve.

I don't really know much on the Diesel engines but I 90% sure TDI's also have a N75 valve or similar.

Again, N75J valves in my own experience only really make a difference that is noticeable on Chipped / re-mapped cars. They help smooth the boost and should cure some of the nasty boost spikes caused by some chips / re-maps
 
Im looking for a nice tidy (small) boost guage...NoNoNo not Scooby Styleeee but something that will match my Interior Lights, Nothing too loud though...Hmmmm:idea:
 
mmmm yes loving the Air vent one, Quite like the one above the Steering column but it would kill my DIS view.

How much are them vent ones mate, Do you know?

oh n keep up the good work matey:icon_thumright::)
 
J7USS said:
The main pipe that goes into the turbo was loose which I suspect was my problem regarding the lack of turbo power.

I would say you got more from fixing the loose pipe than the N75j.
I have been using these on my golf for nearly 4 years changing from J to H and standard and back again.All i ever got was 1 maybe 2 psi initial boost peak then as the revs go up the boost tails off as normal with the J.The H was too agressive and boost was all over the place,worked on my mates golf though:think: They are worth the money for a little extra bit of boost and torque for quick overtaking.
 
james0808 said:
I would say you got more from fixing the loose pipe than the N75j.
I.

When it was first remap'd the Power was great, it wasnt until a couple of weeks after it started to feel lacking boost. Now that I sorted it out and swapped valves it definately drives better than when it was first map'd. Im not saying this valve has given me massive Gains, Its more like its ironed out the throttle response, Yes the torque feels sharper and there is No hesitation anymore, also the gear changes are alot smoother than at first.

So yes I understand where you coming from but im more pointing out the whole Smoothness in general. The pipe I suspect must have worked its way loose them couple of weeks after maybe due to the fact I kept giving it some welly after my remap. Maybe the Extra power gain I got caused the Pipe to work its way Loose - not forgetting that the ****** Garage that done my engine repair didnt Tighten a few of the Clips which I did find way before my Map.
 
I've got a 2003 1.8T (190). Has anyone used a N75J valve on 1 of these before? I have been told that the 190 bhp uses some different parts than the 163 bhp model and wanted to make sure it has'nt already got it on. Sound's a good little investment.
 
****** garages.Did you check your old diverter valve to see if it had split?This happened on my golf not long after the remap.
 
james0808 said:
****** garages.Did you check your old diverter valve to see if it had split?This happened on my golf not long after the remap.

Yes mate, It looked ok to be honest, I was expecting it to be Wrecked but I cleaned it up a little and Inspected it and it seemed fine, Maybe if I was to crack it open then would I see the split?? or is there a way to actually find out without mashing it up??

Before I changed the valves it was getting louder as in there was a whooshing sound - maybe that was because My pipe was reay to completely blow off but it sounded a little like an atmospheric dump valve sometimes..:think:
 
Yes they look smart dont they. Pricey though dont you think??

Ive seen a few on the net/forums where people have done them themselves with a Spare Vent and fitted the guage inside it and took their original ones out. Il dig out some Pics now, Look good.

Im not too fussed about losing a vent to be honest, I might look into it further and see if I can do one myself. Worse comes to worse is you waste a Vent whcih probably only cost you £10 - £15 from a Breaker.:think:
 
This what Im after, Something like this. Looks better to the right as it doesnt Block out your DIS.

BoostGaugepodRangle.jpg

BoostGaugepod2.jpg

BoostGaugePod1.jpg

Boostgaugepodnight.jpg

BoostgaugePod.jpg


hmmmm.:think:
 
J7USS said:
Maybe if I was to crack it open then would I see the split?? or is there a way to actually find out without mashing it up??

You push the valve open with a marker pen or similar,hold your thumb over the small vacuum hole and take the pen out.If you don't get any resistance the valve is ********,also when you release your thumb the diaphram shut pop down.Some are weak and open under the extra boost once remapped.
 
i was under the impression that when you have a re-map the diverter valve needs to be upgraded.
 
I would change it as the original ones are ****.I upgraded to a baileys one at first but it sounded crap,then put a nomad racing one on and it sounded great.
 
LandSpeed said:
i was under the impression that when you have a re-map the diverter valve needs to be upgraded.

Yes its recommended. I was going to upgrade to a forge but after hearing the positive results of the Bosch 710 revised N I thought why bother spending a packet when I can get the Bosch for less than £20.
 
james0808 said:
I would change it as the original ones are ****.I upgraded to a baileys one at first but it sounded crap,then put a nomad racing one on and it sounded great.

So if I was to put a Baileys/forge etc what difference would I see???
 
J7USS said:
So if I was to put a Baileys/forge etc what difference would I see???
Made with twin pistons and are much stronger.They wont creep open under higher boost pressure so your turbo doesnt have to work harder to maintain the boost.
 
The bypass/diverter valve for 1.8T motors is intended to recirculate pressurized intake air when the throttle body is closed to prevent the turbo compressor from stalling. The latest "710N" valve, as it is commonly known, helps reduce surging that may occur when modifying your 1.8T's engine. The 710N valve has a 14.4 lb. spring internally rather than an 8.8 lb. spring found in the earlier Golf, Jetta & New Beetle 1.8T motors as well as in all B5 Passat & Audi A4 1.8T applications.
This is the latest version made by Bosch and is used on 2002> transverse 1.8T models. If you own a pre-2002 Audi A4 1.8T, consider upgrading to this factory installed remedy

thats the write up from autotech
 
Sounds good,do they use any stronger material for the diaphram to prevent it from splitting,if they do its a bargain.:icon_thumright:
 
james0808 said:
Sounds good,do they use any stronger material for the diaphram to prevent it from splitting,if they do its a bargain.:icon_thumright:

Im not quite sure mate but If it goes funny again then Ill without no hesitation go for an Aftermarket Valve.
 
I had two fault codes come up on my car today
17544 and 17964

1st is MAf related and other is N75. I have noticed the car loosing power and boost over some time now so I prob change both of these mine. Also the car just isnt running as smooth as it should.
The only issue is which N75 do i get as the car is remapped. If i use the standard one will as oppose to J will it be alright? I have to put the ECU back to stock every now and then when I am away and the Mrs uses to car.
 
Same probs I was having mate, Mine was running ***** till I did the swaps. Best £50 odd quid I spent. Its the N75J Valve you want.It transformed my feel totally, Vagparts have them. Whilst your there check the diverter valve too. Im thinking of an aftermarket piston one now, like a baileys.

So yes Go with the J edition and check your diverter because the revised 710N is alot stronger and tougher when its comes to lbs of pressure!!!
 
I am already using a forge piston diverter valve. definately compliments the remap and did improve the throttle response at the time. But even then the car lost boost and power 3000+ rpm. I drove a mates and that had power throughtout the rev range and it wasnt remapped.

The J valve wont put the car into limp mode if its run as standard i.e. if i revert the remap to the standard ECU map? I have heard that they are good for a remapped car but can cause overboost issues on a standard car.
 
Thats correct, there has been reports of doing so. BUT you'll have to stop taking the ECU back to standard. The N75J has had more issues on a Non remapped ecu than it has on one that has, I found that when I was doing my investigating on the net and speaking to few people. Doug at MRC was very helpful regarding this - They certainly know their stuff.

Do you really have to revert it back to standard for the Mrs??Is she that bad??
 
..also thats how mine was, felt effortless through most of the revs. You just know when something aint right eh..
 
I just got the "K" version (OE on Audi RS2) which is said to be the most aggresive of the lot ("F', "J", "H") - we will see how this one works on our cars.