vibration issue linked to engine and remap?

glenandem

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hi guys as some of you may know ive had a vibration issue through the car that gets worse at higher speeds, basically ive replaced dmf and clutch, driveshafts dont look like an issue, all mounts apart from rear gearbox mount replaced, suspension looks ok and wheels where upgraded and balanced properly and the fault was still there.
no faults on vcds, so been driving it around feeling it out at speeds ect and found 2 issues firstly the vibration feels like its coming from engine bay,steering wheel spot on and it gets real bad at 70-80 but you can drive through it but when i dip clutch it fades away straight away?
secondly could be the same issue but if im cruising at a low speed say 30-40 and in a high gear like 4th where the engine like idling when i put my foot down to go the engine judders like crazy,not like its in wrong gear for speed but real bad judder?
ive put a black smoke map in it and thought i'd swap the maps and try the original and ive found the low speed judder has almost gone and the high speed vibration is still there but the wife agreed that its alot less now?
im thinking that this is an engine issue now but it idles spot on and revs very clean etc, i dont think its the black smoke map thats the issue but i think as thats pushing things like injectors maybe theres a component not up to it?
anyone got any help or advice, im thinking of taking the car for a drive with vcds and see what injectors are doing etc?
what should i be looking for?
 
If it's a petrol check with Audi to see if your car is covered by the VAG coilpack replacement campaign. Coilpacks could be failing under load.
 
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Anti shudder valve only works when turning the engine on & off. Basically it closes the butterfly flap in the EGR on shut down starving the engine of air.
 
Hi guys cheers for replying, sorry it's s 1.9tdi 130 awx engine standard apart from black smoke remap and I've blocked egr off too a while back.
no faults on vcds scan and starts stops fine with great idle and revs nice and free too!
no smoke at all apart from the usual little puff when when starting cold for a quick second, I'm thinking now about connecting vcds and doing some logging but not sure which parameters to log, anything to look for?
 
For the injectors log groups 13,18, & 23.
Sounds like it's load related to me.
 
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i agree pal as its there most of the time but gets worse when i put my foot down and accellarate, if i dip the clutch on the mway it fades away?
 
could it be a faulty dmf, i replaced it with a sachs full kit but cant help thinking maybe thats at fault,its now 9-10 months old?
 
Same problem here pal. Got it mapped and its juddering quite a bit especially when trying to floor it between 1500-2100rpm thereafter becomes a bit normal. I've noticed that its less noticeable when shifting after 2500-3000rpm through the gears.

Like you I've changed Flywheel and Clutch with LUK.

I think it could be something with the fuel pressure. Anyways I've changed my tandem pump couple of days ago due to weeping underneath a bit however somehow the plastic fuel pipe on the bulkhead cracked whilst getting it changed over so couldn't test as its squirting fuel out. So hopefully I shall let you know how it goes when the pipe arrives Tuesday or Wednesday.
 
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that be great pal if you could let me know, my tandem pump too i think has a weep as i had to change the coolant hose not long ago as it had swelled up due to the diesel leaking onto it!
do you find its more when your labouring engine and asking it to accelarate and it just feels like the engine is banging away under the hood, if i put my foot down at higher revs theres no problem at all but i dont really fancy driving it about at 3-4000 revs all day!!
 
Yep just like you its when I request for more power quickly. However if I gently take it through the revs theres no issue whatsoever.
 
Was this happening before the remap?
I had a weeping tandem pump on a 130 sport Bora once but it didn't cause any running problems at all just smelt of diesel.
 
ive checked the driveshafts when i replaced the dmf last year and was quite happy with them, there was a little bit if play when i turned the actual driveshaft flange mounting that goes into the gearbox when i had the driveshaft off,not up and down just when i turn the flange forward and back like theres a little play inside the gearbox?
ive tried undoing the plate on the egr and didnt help and regarding the blacksmoke map,i cant remember if it was there before as i hadnt had the car long and to be honest i wasnt driving it sensibly if you know what i mean, now i like to look at the mpg going up as i cruise it around at low revs!
as i say i did upload the original file back into the ecu and have to say the judder had gone cruising around town but still there at mway speeds but not as bad so im not saying its the map but could the map be exagerating the fault as a map is designed to push things like fuel pressure etc isnt it so if ive got a faulty component that cant take the increased strain from a map?
 
ok went out looking at some measuring blocks and firstly maf looked abit high,one just stayed at 850? and the other was constantly around 450ish?
850.0 mg/str MAF (specified) 230-310
450.8 mg/str MAF (actual) 210-350

next i looked at injectors and they was all around the same reading near 0.00ish but when accelerating with the judder i noticed no4 jumped to 2.9 and just stayed there untill i let it idle again?
and the final thing was under block 23 it didnt say what it was but injector 3 was well off the other injectors with whatever it was doing,got a pic of that here,its the bottom box on no3 reading -1.0?
any advice guys
 
My MAF reading is like yours. 850 I believe is because the EGR is blocked off as per the map. Before the remap my request was around 250 specified however I got approx 450. I think that's because of the EGR delete. So nothing to worry there.

I will upload my injector readings when I get the car up and running hopefully Tuesday.
 
Good news!! Well hopefully it stays that way.


Changed the tandem pump today and its not vibrating anymore so hopefully thats sorted it out.

Let me see how it goes further during the week and hopefully it will be all good.
 
good lad, hope its sorted it for you mate!
did you ever check the fuel pump in the tank by the way,ive read stories on those failing but the car can still possibly run?
 
ps where did you get your tandem from pal, ive got a leak from mine and not sure whether to replace the gasket or just replace the whole unit too
 
Yeah i got my tandem pump from a 1.4 2008 vw polo tdi breaking on ebay for £50. It was the "N" revision and uses the metal gasket whereas my one was the "A" revision and used rubber seal.

If I were you i'd first get the seal from dealer which is £6.50.

There's this guide thats on the net that gives u info on how to see what the pressure is on the pump however I couldn't be bothered to be honest.

As for the lift pump I have a doubt that it may have become a little bit weak in pushing fuel, but I will have to check to be certain. I know its working because I can hear it when switching ignition on.