Newby help required please.

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phil mcglassup

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Hi Everyone,

I'm new to Audis and I'm interested in an 2003 1.9 Tdi 130 [6] SE, 100k miles which I've been to see.
Could you help me with a few questions :-

Firstly, both front doors seem to have dropped at the back edge where they meet the front edge of the rear doors.
Then, there is a mild oil 'wetness' near the top of the nearside of the engine which looks like a gasket or something is leaking slightly. Sorry but I don't know what the parts are in this area!!
Also, I did not check if there is a radio code with the car.
Finally, what special tool do I need to change the cambelt.

Are any of these issues serious? Any help appreciated,

Phil.
 
Welcome! A very popular choice of car around here, there's lots of 1.9 Tdi fans who I'm sure will be able to help with your engine questions.

I wouldn't worry about the radio code, I bought a code off ebay for about a fiver so if it doesn't come with one, one could easily be acquired.
 
100k and the doors have dropped? See if that mileage can be backed up....... As for the oil is it on the engine or on the boost pipes?
 
Can you pin point the oily bit on this pic?

25404d1388925577 another new 1 9tdi owner 20140105 122816
 
The MoT certificate shows the last four mileages which appear logical, though what happened prior to that is unknown. I'll check it out on the VOSA site. The oil is on the intercooler pipe (I think) joint that is about half way along and parallel with the head. Not much just damp/wet with oil.
 
Yes it's the black pipe approx. 5cm diameter under the plastic engine cover under the dipstick area.

And meant to say the doors have only dropped 1-2mm
 
Leaking boost pipe. Seal can be replaced for about £4. Did you see the oil cooler down there? Was it leaking or covered in oil? Did you test drive it?
 
Thanks.
If the oil cooler is that alloy metal box at the base of the engine underneath the joint, then it was dry.Test drive was perfect. No sloppiness in the gearbox, no other oil leaks. No issues with the engine or clutch. No mayo on filler cap, no water on dipstick, no oil in the header tank. Just that oil dampness on the pipe joint. £4 seems like a cheap fix.
 
I found on mine there was a lot of oil in the boost pipes. I fitted a catch can to try and lessen the mess.
 
I have test driven quite a few 1.9 TDis with a variety of mileages on the clocks over the last few days but this one definitely drives a lot tighter than the higher mileage ones. Also the engine sounds healthier. Some of them sounded like an old Ford Transit pick up I had which had 150 k miles on the clock. The Transit kept going with no problems, just the engine sounded different.
 
that oil is pretty normal

if your happy the mileage is ok then so be it

as for the cam belt you need a crank locking tool and a 6mm pin these can be had on ebay for about £13
 
I saw a video on you tube where the mechanic used a hand tool to rotate the tensioner. It was like a long round bar with a flat bit on the end with two 'fangs' sticking out of it.
Will I need one of these?
I have seen the kits with the crank locking tool, the 6mm pin and a small flat metal bar with two fangs stuck out of the end of it. Is that the one?

thanks so far.
 
One more question:
What make of cambelt did they come out of the factory with? And what name or identifying marks are on them?

I was just wanting to make sure that the cambelt had been changed.
 
this is what I got VW Golf 5 Mk4 Mk5 1.9 2.0 TDI PD Diesel Engine Crank Crankshaft Timing Lock Tool | eBay

they have gone up in price

no you dont need that flat bar the tensioners come with a slot for a allen key thats if yours is a manual tensioner some are hydraulic you need to check before you order

pretty sure they are a ContiTech from factory but if its been on for 100k then there won't be any readable marks on it

I would do it out of course anyway I have not long ago put a skf one on mine
 
Ok thanks.
I've bought the car :racer: and it has 90k miles on the clock. I took off the top cambelt cover, and as you said there are no markings on it so to be on the safe side it is best to assume it hasn't been changed, so that is the next job. Having said that the cambelt is showing no signs of cracking, splitting or deterioration, I suppose that doesn't mean it won't snap !!

BTW the existing tensioner has two small holes in it for the tensioner tool. Is this the non-hydraulic type? Should I assume that the new replacement will have an allen key fitting instead? Will any pattern-part cambelt kit and water pump be OK? There is a big difference in price.

TIA.
 
the non hydraulic type has the pointer that you have to light up like in the video the hydraulic doesnt
 
Thanks.

What's the general opinion on non-genuine cambelt kits? Is there a good one?
 
The door-drop still seems strange... have you checked thoroughly for resprays, etc?

Mine was on nearly 150k when I sold it (to a good friend, who I wouldn't stitch up)... and every door panel was tight, evenly spaced and basically perfect... the rest of the car was just as tight too...

100k on a 1.9TDI is only just approaching "run in".... get an older one ;)
 
I have a skf from euro car parts no probs yet
 
Thanks all,

I was just wondering if some non-genuine cambelts were too cheap and nasty to be reliable.
 
I suppose its up to you how much you wanna spend. Its a major component that you dont really wanna scrimp on. I know I would only go for Audi part. But thats just me.
 
Thanks everyone, I've ordered an SKF from europarts.

Some forum members suggest getting the torsion value checked on VCDS after fitting the new cambelt yet the SKF video does not mention this.

Is it necessary?
 
you should check it with VCDS the closer to 0 the better
 
I can't understand why the instruction video by SKF missed that out if it is so important !!

That's going to add a few quid to the DIY repair bill !!
 
you can buy a cheap ebay lead and the none registered version to check the torsion value
 
I was thinking of getting a 'semi-useful' code reader though I know nothing about them. At some point in the near future I was going to search the forum for information to see which one is a good compromise between cost and usefulness !! At this time I can't stretch to £350 odd quid for an all singing all dancing version whose full range of functions I will never need. Might an ebay cheapy be very limited?

I guess I just want the basic code reading and functionality.
 
£250 for VCDS

and nothing else is as good other code readers don't do a lot with these cars to be honest

yes the ebay jobby is very limited but will do the torsion value and some code reading

I may even have one you can have for postage I will need to check
 
Same here have lead off eBay for £10. Does everything I require for diy use and used it to adjust torsion value. Adjusting requires patience and some gentle movements till its set right.
 
engine block 4 and its the last one
 
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