How to get rid of ABS dash lights after fitting HIDS.
- Thread starter krisavant
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krisavant
Registered User
Well as long as your headlights still work, it's so far so good.
There seems to be a few solutions floating around here so you may as well do what other people have advised to do also.
You can move the hids ballast back into the engine bay away from wiring.
Cover the cars wiring (behind headlights) & the HIDS wiring with foil or what I would use, rubber from a bike inner tube.
So then you have done 3 possible solutions to stop dash warning lights come on.
There seems to be a few solutions floating around here so you may as well do what other people have advised to do also.
You can move the hids ballast back into the engine bay away from wiring.
Cover the cars wiring (behind headlights) & the HIDS wiring with foil or what I would use, rubber from a bike inner tube.
So then you have done 3 possible solutions to stop dash warning lights come on.
nefA4
Registered User
Thanks, i do want to try every solution before i re- install the new hid's and defenetly i will try all solutions to make sure abs light don't comeback, i was told not sure if is true if abs light goes on you need to send abs module for repair, .you know if anyone experience abs/ esp lights on and after relocating ballast or doing the foil wrapping mod, or krisavant mod, abs/esp warning has gone Without sending module for repair?
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Kris avant mod worked for me. Simple quick and easy with ballasts under headlights. What's not to like.
nefA4
Registered User
Im sure it does, i did it on my car but im yet to install hid's im taking all precautions before installing hid's again, thats why im asking so many question to see what better work,. Im defenetly going to install hid's tomorrow, already did krisvant mod and im going to insulate all wiring and install ballast under headlights like krisavant did.
To insulate the cables must use Aluminum foil.
That's the same material companies selling HPS lights (High Pressure Sodium) use to shield their lights & avoid EMI (Electro Magnetic Interference).
This HPS lights also works with high voltage cables and voltaic arcs, same as HID.
I will upload more info later, in case it can help someone.
We have been using this trick for years in some Audi forums.
EMI are very common between this type of lights HPS & HID.
IEEE Xplore - The reduction of Total Harmonic Distortion and electromagnetic interference in high pressure sodium ...
The existing conventional street lighting HPS are powered by magnetic ballasts. The magnetic ballast is a device which consists of coil and core. It is an uncontrolled device, not energy efficient and generate flicker before it can give steady light. The use of electronic ballast provides a rapid start and energy efficient but will create electromagnetic interference and harmonic.Here an example of how this shielding works.
Aftermarket HID kits cause many interference problems due to High Voltage.
- Audi A4 B6 = ABS / ESP errors
- Audi A3 = Blows away the wiper motor
- Volvo S40 - V50 = Blows away the Wiper motor
- Peugeot 407 = Blows away the Wiper motor
- Golf IV = Wipers move once when HID bulbs are turned ON.
- Seat Ibiza (old model) = Digital clock, Partial KM or Miles reset when HID is turned ON
- Also very common are interference in your radio AM/FM, your radio won't be able to get a strong signal.
I have been working with HID for the last 7 years & I suffered all this problems myself.
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krisavant
Registered User
nefA4
Registered User
Today i re- install my hid's i did a little of everything that was posted in this site, i did the krisavant mod,i wrap all cable and ballast on alumnium foil and re-wrap again with motorcycle heat shield, that was an extra to make sure no high voltage damage any module or make things go crazy, like damage wiper motor or abs module etc, i took every precaution hopefully it would work,
if not i already know a place where they sell hid's with low voltage cables and work the same, i took some pics of what i did hope it help because this over wattage hid's cable are too costly when damage modules or motors.. Good luck!!
if not i already know a place where they sell hid's with low voltage cables and work the same, i took some pics of what i did hope it help because this over wattage hid's cable are too costly when damage modules or motors.. Good luck!!
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nefA4
Registered User
I place the driver side ballast next to side fender and tight with tie rod and the passanger side under the headlight plenty of space on the passanger side not too much apace on the driver side but if u take ur time should fix nicely my ballast is small
hope it help
hope it help
nefA4
Registered User
To insulate the cables must use Aluminum foil.
That's the same material companies selling HPS lights (High Pressure Sodium) use to shield their lights & avoid EMI (Electro Magnetic Interference).
This HPS lights also works with high voltage cables and voltaic arcs, same as HID.
I will upload more info later, in case it can help someone.
We have been using this trick for years in some Audi forums.
EMI are very common between this type of lights HPS & HID.
IEEE Xplore - The reduction of Total Harmonic Distortion and electromagnetic interference in high pressure sodium ...
The existing conventional street lighting HPS are powered by magnetic ballasts. The magnetic ballast is a device which consists of coil and core. It is an uncontrolled device, not energy efficient and generate flicker before it can give steady light. The use of electronic ballast provides a rapid start and energy efficient but will create electromagnetic interference and harmonic.Here an example of how this shielding works.
Aftermarket HID kits cause many interference problems due to High Voltage.
- Audi A4 B6 = ABS / ESP errors
- Audi A3 = Blows away the wiper motor
- Volvo S40 - V50 = Blows away the Wiper motor
- Peugeot 407 = Blows away the Wiper motor
- Golf IV = Wipers move once when HID bulbs are turned ON.
- Seat Ibiza (old model) = Digital clock, Partial KM or Miles reset when HID is turned ON
- Also very common are interference in your radio AM/FM, your radio won't be able to get a strong signal.
I have been working with HID for the last 7 years & I suffered all this problems myself.
Putting ballast and all cables inside rear headlight housing its that safe??doesn't get hot around headlight housing? Just a though,if it work more power to us,in expenses ideas that works for me!
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nefA4
Registered User
Yes, it's totally safe.
Ballast do not get hot.
And also is a good idea because you can put some extra Aluminum tape/foil in the back cover to make sure to avoid any EMI (Electro Magnetic Interference).
I have more pics of the mods I made using Aluminum a while ago.
I can upload them later if someone is interested.
nefA4
Registered User
Think i might wrap mine in some foil to be safe! Do you wrap just the ballast or do you have to wrap the wires as well? And this is just ordinary kitchen foil yes?
nefA4
Registered User
Yes ordinary kitchen foil, i wrap the ballast and all wires
nefA4
Registered User
Look at post # 51, that should help how to wrap and where to place them if u have small ballast,my hid's been working abs/ esp free since i re- install them.
My HID's are still setting off the ABS warning and also sometimes the dipped beam bulb out warning comes up.
Today I tidied up the cut car loom earth, wrapped it in gaffa tape and tidied up where I had cut the loom sheath.
The solder joint from headlight to additional earth wire is still strong and I soldered the earth wire to the washer I put under the washer bolt to ensure good contact.
I've got to exchange side light bulbs are the 5 cluster LED ones were poop, so I'm going to try upping the size wire for the earth, all I had to hand at the time is some wire out of a 3 core extension lead cable.
Today I tidied up the cut car loom earth, wrapped it in gaffa tape and tidied up where I had cut the loom sheath.
The solder joint from headlight to additional earth wire is still strong and I soldered the earth wire to the washer I put under the washer bolt to ensure good contact.
I've got to exchange side light bulbs are the 5 cluster LED ones were poop, so I'm going to try upping the size wire for the earth, all I had to hand at the time is some wire out of a 3 core extension lead cable.
nefA4
Registered User
If you have led in one of your bulb you going to get the dipped bulb warning light, if you already did all that stuff to cover hid's and you still getting the abs warning light most likely you need to send your abs module for repair, are you getting the esp light also?
The LED sidelights were faulty 1/5 LEDs on each bulb had blown but these have been iffy since 2 weeks after installation and until recently I wasn't getting issues with "dipped beam" warning, so I'm on the assumption that there's an issue with the earth.
HID's are OEM install on the underside of the headlight. I haven't wrapped the wires inside the headlight although this may be a job to do tomorrow when I fiddle with the earth.
As I don't have any thicker wire to hand I was going to run 2 wires soldered at the ends and maybe try earthing to 1 of the chassis leg bolts.
Nah when the ABS warning goes it's just the ABS no ESP.
Normally switching the car completely off then restarting gets rid of the warning but today the left dipped beam just does not want to work.
HID's are OEM install on the underside of the headlight. I haven't wrapped the wires inside the headlight although this may be a job to do tomorrow when I fiddle with the earth.
As I don't have any thicker wire to hand I was going to run 2 wires soldered at the ends and maybe try earthing to 1 of the chassis leg bolts.
Nah when the ABS warning goes it's just the ABS no ESP.
Normally switching the car completely off then restarting gets rid of the warning but today the left dipped beam just does not want to work.
nefA4
Registered User
What kind of OEM ballast, the A4 B6 Valeo OEM ballast?
What type of bulb are you using? H7, D1S, D2S ?
Do you have any pic?
nefA4
Registered User
Try to find the welldone A38p or welldone oem i heard good thing about them zero interference, ask in the forum im sure someone sell them here,dont take chances with cheap hid's not worth it too much interference specially with audi modules, and yes they do come h7,sorry i have no pics. Hope that help
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With my aftermarket HID's I've learnt that if I let the engine idle for 30 seconds BEFORE turning on my headlights I DON'T get the brake warning.
If I turn them on straight after starting the engine or before starting the engine then I do get the warning flashing up. So for the last 2 months I've not had one warning flash up.
I however do have some genuine B5 S4 xenon headlights with genuine ballasts so I will be fitting these, including the light domes, into my B6 at somepoint.
Dan
If I turn them on straight after starting the engine or before starting the engine then I do get the warning flashing up. So for the last 2 months I've not had one warning flash up.
I however do have some genuine B5 S4 xenon headlights with genuine ballasts so I will be fitting these, including the light domes, into my B6 at somepoint.
Dan
Sorry I didn't say that well, I've done an OEM STYLE install with a HID Direct kit installed on the underside of the headlight with a metal plate screwed to the underside and the middle plastics cut out.
S4 Dan, I found that with mine, leaving it for a while it would work or it did work turning lights on before turning the key.
Sorted!
So it seems half a dozen of strands from the earth wire had broken, unfortunately from the plug end so I'm now down to about 40mm of wire coming out of the plug but I have coated this is solder better this time round and I also moved the earth to the back of 1 of the bolts mounting the crash bar to the chassis leg (M8 nut required).
So with the earth sorted I plugged back in and turned straight on and the usual ABS warning was back but light was working.
So un plugged the light and raided the kitchen for some foil, coated all the wires I could get to without unscrewing the ballast.
Put it back in, turned them straight on, no warnings! HURRAY!!!! Just for the fun I then turned off key out, started engine turned lights on instantly, no issues!
Thanks for the extra support, the foil made that extra difference and worked a treat.
So it seems half a dozen of strands from the earth wire had broken, unfortunately from the plug end so I'm now down to about 40mm of wire coming out of the plug but I have coated this is solder better this time round and I also moved the earth to the back of 1 of the bolts mounting the crash bar to the chassis leg (M8 nut required).
So with the earth sorted I plugged back in and turned straight on and the usual ABS warning was back but light was working.
So un plugged the light and raided the kitchen for some foil, coated all the wires I could get to without unscrewing the ballast.
Put it back in, turned them straight on, no warnings! HURRAY!!!! Just for the fun I then turned off key out, started engine turned lights on instantly, no issues!
Thanks for the extra support, the foil made that extra difference and worked a treat.
I've had HIDs over the years on various different cars but my question is, are they worth installing on the b6? I know they have projector headlights which is what HIDs should be installed onto anyway but what is the light output like? Do you get a razor sharp cut off with the standard projectors? I'm thinking of a 55w 5000k setup by the way. I'm just thinking, the kits that people are using, are they the Non Canbus version or can bus?
I think HID's are essential to the B6 as the original light output is so poor.
nefA4
Registered User
I have canbus on my, 35w/600k, i think 55w its too much voltage, i had 55w/600k bought them on ebay and they start doing crazy things with my abs module so i got rid of them, i guess if u install them properly as far from any modules and cover ballast with foil paper u should be ok, and remember if u get them 55w/5000k its going to be bright but yelloish, if u want pure white u have to go with 6000k, a little bluish 8000k, i will recomend 6000k white bright. Hope that help
35w/6000k on pic canbus kelvins Hid's.
nefA4
Registered User
I had 6000k first, and then changed to 4300k as I felt they were too blue.
The extra light output of the 4300 over the 6000's is surprising. I'd only ever use 4300 or max 5000k now.
The extra light output of the 4300 over the 6000's is surprising. I'd only ever use 4300 or max 5000k now.
Yeah I had D2S 5000k in my 02 Audi S3 and they look white with a purpley hue. I think they were perfect as I woudn't want to sacrifice light output for looks. I'm just thinking about the 35W comment you said because normal conventional bulbs are 55w so I don't know why they would be an issue although different brands behave differently I suppose.
nefA4
Registered User
It all depends on the brand of hid's u get, some cheap brand 35w/6000k its kind of bluish other brand 35w/6000k will be pure white, try to always get a high quiality on after market hid's or better off go oem more money less headache. I got aftermarket on my but happyð
As above HIDs are a must in the B6. I couldn't see anything on country roads before HIDs, it was actually quite dangerous.
I went for a Canbus slim line kit from HID's Direct, 35w 5000k When compared to the LED side lights I installed the HID's had a slight yellow tinge in comparison but when driving they look nice and white on the road and produce a nice crisp line.
There is a explanation for that.
HID bulbs require the ballast to produce 25.000V to start up the bulbs.
The cooler the bulbs the longer the ballast needs to keep that high voltage current to turn them on.
HID bulbs make a very bright light the first moment you turn them on, then the brightness of the bulbs lowers & slowly keeps growing for few seconds until they reach the 100% power brightness.
This process varies depending on weather conditions, in cold weathers or winter season the bulbs take longer to reach the max output.
Also when you have been using the bulbs recently & they still hot, if you turn them on again the bulbs will reach the 100% brightness much faster.
Once the bulbs are working at 100% brightness the ballast will just need 85v to keep the bulbs on. No more high voltage is used.
So this means,
The cooler the bulbs, the longer you need to keep applying the 25.000V current = Higher chance of interference.
The hotter the bulbs, the shorter you need to keep this 25.000V current = Lower chance of interference.
Genuine ballast may not solve the problem if they use High Voltage cables.
This issue is not only about quality, I suffered this issue in the past with Genuine Hella D2S ballast.
All this cheap aftermarket HID kits generate interference.
The best move would be to chose the right bulbs and ballast from the beginning not needing any future modifications.
Usually people find out to late, then the easiest solution is just to use the Aluminum tin foil to shield the cables & avoid the EMI (Electro Magnetic Interference).
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It's a shame the real deal or good copies are so expensive, those welloem HID kits that were mentioned were nearly 300 dollars.
Now I'd rather invest a few quid in foil to resolve the issues of a 60 quid kit.
So how comes OEM ballasts don't cause ABS issues? afterall there mounted in the same place that most of us are putting them.
Now I'd rather invest a few quid in foil to resolve the issues of a 60 quid kit.
So how comes OEM ballasts don't cause ABS issues? afterall there mounted in the same place that most of us are putting them.
nefA4
Registered User
Its the high voltage in the cables the after market kid carries, but i do too agree with you on rather use foil paper than to pay $300, thats what i did too,but for those who dont want to deal with abs issues or wipers motor issues and have the xtra cash then is best to invest on those. Life is about choices!!!
