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  1. #1
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    Angry Help! 2.5 tdi ake cam torque setting

    Hi, I am in the middle of swapping the cams in my car
    but need the torque settings for the bolts holding the cams down
    i did some digging around on the net and found a link saying to do them at 20 nm but it doesn't seem right to me

    Can someone please put me out of my misery?
    thanks
    stuart
    Last edited by stuartclarke; 6th August 2013 at 22:16.

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  3. #2
    SL11CKK's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by stuartclarke View Post
    Hi, I am in the middle of swapping the cams in my car
    but need the torque settings for the bolts holding the cams down
    i did some digging around on the net and found a link saying to do them at 20 nm but it doesn't seem right to me

    Can someone please put me out of my misery?
    thanks
    stuart
    Pm quattrojames and he'll be able to help you. Give your engine code too.

  4. #3
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    Thanks Sl11ckk

    I managed to get the torque settings in the end.

    I now have the problem starting the car, I know the pump timing is going to be out as I've had the pulleys off.

    I can get it to crank and fire for approx. 2 seconds but then it dies, there also white smoke from the exhaust.


    A friend of mine was cranking the engine whilst I was bleeding the injectors and I could see that there is air along the clear tube that goes from the diesel filter to the pump.

    Is there a way of bleeding the pump? all the injectors sprayed diesel when I cracked them open

    Thanks,
    Stuart

  5. #4
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    If manual gearbox then easier to tow the car whilst in 2nd or 3rd gear to expel the air, the vp44 are very hard to bleed, even on cars fitted with lift pumps ! Also a sniff of brake cleaner spray in the intake will get it going, be careful not to hydrolock the engine though !
    FOR SALE:
    -Golf mk 5/audi a3 1.6 FSI fuel pump, brand new genuine part boxed + seals
    -audi a3 (1998 to 2003) genuine clutch slave cylinder to fit 1.6 engines BRAND NEW
    -Rear bush press tool to fit new rear axle bushes on Golf Mk3/4, Audi a3/S3, Seat Leon/Toledo, Skoda Octavia mk 1/2 used once

  6. #5
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    Hi Chris,

    the car is a manual quattro

    I was thinking about towing but I wanted to start the car and run it for 5 mins then re-check all the bolts & belts to make sure nothing moves.

    I currently have the front end in bits still, is there a way off using a vacuum/syringe to remove the air?

    Thanks,
    Stuart

  7. #6
    AlexGSi2000's Avatar
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    When I have done this in the past, I have loosened the top nuts on the injectors - so the pipes are loose.
    Iv then cranked the engine til diesel starts pulsing out, then tightened them one by one whilst still cranking.

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    Quote Originally Posted by AlexGSi2000 View Post
    When I have done this in the past, I have loosened the top nuts on the injectors - so the pipes are loose.
    Iv then cranked the engine til diesel starts pulsing out, then tightened them one by one whilst still cranking.
    Thanks,

    Ill give this another go tonight.

    Can anyone tell me what position i should set the pulley for the diesel pump, as I understand I have to get the car started and run up to temperature before setting it using vcds to see which way I need to go

    Thanks,
    Stuart

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    Quote Originally Posted by stuartclarke View Post
    Thanks,

    Ill give this another go tonight.

    Can anyone tell me what position i should set the pulley for the diesel pump, as I understand I have to get the car started and run up to temperature before setting it using vcds to see which way I need to go

    Thanks,
    Stuart
    At last,

    Car finally spluttered into life 2 battery chargers later, I had a friend crank the engine whilst I cracked open the injector lines 1 at a time.

    The car is much quieter now it has new cams, and runs much smoother before the engine would rock whilst idling

    The picture below shows the amount of ware the rockers had, a few of these were stuck in the oil returns that I retrieved before removing the old cams, also some thrust pads were found in the sump but all were accounted for, on removing the old tappets some of them were that worn that they had no heads for the rockers to sit on

    I also opted to change all belts, pulleys, water pump, thermostat, gaskets and oil separator. all for a good price from Automotorcraft recommended by Adamss24 many times on this site

    One other thing that I think is worth mentioning is the cambelt, I have heard horror stories of Dayco cambelts, mine had just over 15000 miles before it was due to be changed and was ripped and frayed along both side with cracks showing on the underside (Toothed side) when taken off, I have replaced all belt with contitech ones

    Thanks to everyone who helped me
    Attached Images Attached Images

  10. #9
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    Glad you got it all sorted. Are you a mechanic by trade?

    I had a forum member help me out (actually... do 90% of it for me!) when I drained out a thrust pad from the sump.

    Yours were much worse than mine were, mines 25,000 miles on and still perfect - used the same kit as yourself.
    I'm hoping with regular 5k oil changes the engine will see me past 200,000 miles.

  11. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by AlexGSi2000 View Post
    Glad you got it all sorted. Are you a mechanic by trade?

    I had a forum member help me out (actually... do 90% of it for me!) when I drained out a thrust pad from the sump.

    Yours were much worse than mine were, mines 25,000 miles on and still perfect - used the same kit as yourself.
    I'm hoping with regular 5k oil changes the engine will see me past 200,000 miles.
    Hi Alex,

    No im not a mechanic by trade, but I have been doing all repairs/services on cars since I was 15. The whole job took me 8.5 hours and I still have the top cam covers and front bumper to put on, this will get done when I get the car back, at the moment it’s at a local garage (sporttech) having the diesel pump timed as I don't have a cable

    I was thinking of doing changes at 10k intervals, should I be doing them earlier?
    Also can I use the later 507 spec oil or should I stick to 505

 

 

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