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Thread: RobMorris Audi A4 2.5 V6 tdi avant

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    RobMorris's Avatar
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    RobMorris Audi A4 2.5 V6 tdi avant

    Chaps

    Just picked up my new car - I give it 2/10! (And that might be too generous!)

    OK so it needs a few things but I think i got it cheap enough?
    She had done 198k! And a seemingly hard and molested life.
    Body wise she is great other than the bumpers..

    Q***I need a full front lower half of the bumper + the 3 lower grills - any idea where to source these?

    Nearly a years MOT and like 5 months tax. I literally have no other history!
    2 advisories being it requires a front/left wheel bearing and also the same wheel inside tyre tread is low..

    So first things first - ive ordered a service kit - oil/air/fuel/cabin filters..

    Q***how many litres + what oil should I go for considering the mileage?

    I also need to get on and order a wheel bearing. I will buy the 'kit' for £30 so I/my mechanic wont require a press.

    The interior is grubby - it needs a DEEP clean! the cloth seats have stains on them and I think it used to seat 4 massive smokers chain smoking the full 198k miles! so I need to somehow get ride of that smell..
    All the buttons/dials etc are worn.

    Q***where can I source replacement dials / switches / buttons etc?

    All the electrics appear to work, the windows have a mind of there own as in full/partial up/down but i think its a sticky switch?

    The wheels are ugly and the arch gap is too large! Id like to source some 18s + have some Eibach Pro Kit lowering springs fitted.

    There is a nasty aftermarket stereo 'fitted' - well just hanging in the slot with no cage and the sound from the speakers doesnt sound right? I think some are either blown/missing etc

    I do have a McIntosh double din CD player and DLS amp going spare so might chuck that in and amp up the stock speakers?

    And lastly (that ive come across so far) the driver door latch doesnt click down properly once you open the car so you have to manually finger the door latch downwards so you can close the door..

    Q***what is your advice on how to go about fixing this one?

    --

    So a work in progres.. thanks in advance for anyones advice and help.

    Have some bad seller pics..








    Cheers Rob!

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    how many litres + what oil should I go for considering the mileage?
    What service interval are you going to run it on?

    If your going to have it on a fixed 10K service then I would run 5w40 Quantum Platinum, and no matter what oil you will need exactly 5 Litres.

    I will buy the 'kit' for £30 so I/my mechanic wont require a press.
    Is this going to be some cheap no named thing of a well known auction site? If so I would say your best off spending the extra £15 and buying something branded from a known supplier, as will probably last a darn sight longer, and the person you buy it off will still exist if you have any problems.

    Even though you dont need a press, those spline headed bolts that hold the bearing housing into the hub can be stubborn at times!

    I need a full front lower half of the bumper + the 3 lower grills - any idea where to source these?
    The grilles arent usually too bad a price from a main dealer, but for that lower bumper half I would say a breakers.

    the windows have a mind of there own as in full/partial up/down but i think its a sticky switch?
    Sounds like its either windows that are a bit stiff in the rubbers, as will sometimes think something is trapped and lower the window again, or if its had the battery off you have to teach it whats all the way up and down.... wind the windows all the way up, release switch, and then hold switch in up position for a few more seconds, then do the same for the down.

    Good luck with the rest, as all those interior plastic bits are only available from a main dealer, or used, but most used one are in a pretty poor state.

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    Thanks for your advice Enzo!

    Oil change wise - i prefer to change every 5-6000 miles.

    Additionally I am also trying to find out the best way to blank of the EGR - its seems with the 2.5 I can just pull of the hose going to the EGR and just block the end of the hose up? if anyone can confirm?

    Cheers Rob

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    Re: RobMorris Audi A4 2.5 V6 tdi avant

    I must admit, I am looking forward to seeing the transformation to a loved car. It looks nasty inside at the moment, but nothing a bit of tlc can't sort.

    Keep posting pics as you progress. There's a few front bumpers in the ebay bargains thread at the moment, or ring a few breakers as suggested.


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    Cheers mate.
    Before I could even come to work this morning I took it to the local car wash for a 'inside and out' job.
    The friendly eastern europeans joked with me saying this was the dirtiest car they have ever seen!
    They worked double time and tried their best still charging me the norm.. but said that id need to leave with them for the day and will cost me about £50 to properlly clean! Main dirt or water stains I guess on the seats..?

    The engine seemed a little noisy this morning + I noticed a few little oil drops but right at the front of the car as if coming from the front of the bumper?!?
    So I checked the oil and actually appears to be too much oil in? Maybe I have to wait til its cold again and recheck once its settled?
    Hopefully my service kit comes in time for me to do a much needed service this weekend!

    Q*** there was something new this morning. A yellow warning light of a triangle with a ! in the middle? I think its the ESP? It would come on for a few mins - then go off and so on..?

    Cheers Rob

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    Im not sure if you have done much research into the 2.5TDi engines?

    Basically, quite a few of these cars suffer from camshaft wear - most commonly cars that have been on the extended interval service.

    Im judging by your points about springs/wheels.etc on your first post you are planning on spending some money on the car.
    I would check the condition of the camshafts before throwing money at the car, as it is relatively high miles.
    You can usually see one cam lobe through the oil filler with a torch.
    Replacement parts for the top end rebuild (cams, lifters.etc) usually sell for around the £800 mark on ebay - that's without replacement belts.etc

    Sorry to burst your bubble, but don't want to see someone throw money into something that could potentially need more work.
    I purchased my 2.5TDi in February of last year - this needed the cams replacing, if I would have known then I wouldnt have purchased the car.

    As for the oil - go for 5-40w as Enzo_UK mentioned, I believe the 5-30w to be too "thin". Im currently using Shell Helix Ultra in mine.

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    Thanks for the heads up mate! A worrying heads up but like you say before I splash some cash..

    Looking through the oil cap at the cam lobe - what should I be looking for? (Or not for as the case may be!)

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    Great cheers - will have a look and let you know - fingers crossed!

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    Thats a true bangernomics turd. I'd get it MOT's and just run the ****er, dont be buying lowing kits and alloys.

    I have a shagged out 406 HDI that I use just for knocking around in, I could not care less if it was nicked/smashed/blew up. I have not spent a piss bean on it I swear when it fails an MOT it will be scrapped... But it just keeps passing its MOT!!! I have never put oil in it and although its very black its never used a drop.

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    Thanks for your input - it has nearly a years MOT already with 2 small advisories.

    Alex - ive had a look and 'I think' im OK? Heres a pic of mine..



    Cheers!

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    Re-looking at your example - I might need to grab a pic with the cam pointing the other way?
    I did turn the car over about 10 times to grab this pic though at various angles and all seemed straight?

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    Its quite hard to tell from the pictures, but personally by looking at the picture I would say there was abit of wear going on there.
    I ran a long screwdriver across the lobe and could feel a "dip" or a lip on the edge of the lobe.

    I guess the best way to tell would be to remove one of the rocker (cam) covers to give it a better inspection.
    This can be done by removing the injector lines from the top of the injector, and removing the injector "leak-off" pipes to the side of the injectors.
    From here you can slide the cover off whilst lifting the injector pipework up slightly.
    The left-hand bank will be the easiest after removing the air intake.

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    Thanks Alex il try get around to that
    was intending to give the engine a clean anyway so il be having certain bits off..

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    VagCabby's Avatar
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    There's a couple of b6s in peas pottage on the m23 both silver, ones a saloon and ones an avant. Not sure how far that is from you in Essex but they were both still quite in tact so you could grab some bits off the cheaply.
    Audi A4 Cabriolet 2.5TDI 163 Sport
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    RobMorris's Avatar
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    cheers mate - 40 miles away so certainly close enough for me to visit
    have you any contact info?

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    Take a look on there, should have all the info needed G W Bridges Car ScrapYard : Pease Pottage, West Sussex, Local Directory. It's a huge scrap yard. The b6s are in the end yard. I live locally so its like my second home when needing bits for my car lol
    Audi A4 Cabriolet 2.5TDI 163 Sport
    Full Interior Lighting Pack - Puddle Lights, Footwell Lights, Door Markers, Handle Ambient Lights, Air Vent Illumination, Armrest Illumination, Roof Ambient Lights. Auto Dim Rear View Mirror, Cruise Control, Full DIS, Genuine 6 Disc CD Changer in Glovebox, RNSE, Remote Windows, Parrot Bluetooth, Storage Pack, Full Leather, Heated Mirrors.

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    cheers mate il use that as a second option.
    I have since found one called Nirro in Barking closer to me.

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    Chaps
    this might be a stupid question and maybe its my eyes!?
    But what colour is my interior?
    It seems like light grey but with a hint of beige?
    Now is beige an actual interior colour or is it that my light grey interior is more cigarette smoke tarred as I first thought!


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    Unfortunately not mine but would say mine is this which I think is beige?


    but its not this beige!


    So whats my version of beige?!

    Cheers!

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    Re: RobMorris Audi A4 2.5 V6 tdi avant

    Look in the service book. Inside front cover will list your PR codes.
    Google the codes for your interior colour
    A4 (b6) 2.5 TDi QS Saloon.

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    RobMorris's Avatar
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    I wish i had the book!
    I got 2 old MOTs and a log book...

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    Re: RobMorris Audi A4 2.5 V6 tdi avant

    OK. same sticker is in the boot. Normally the spare wheel well.
    A4 (b6) 2.5 TDi QS Saloon.

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    great cheers - il seek that out tonight

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    This looks an interesting project, can I ask what you paid for it?

    I'd certainly take them up on that £50 for a full valet option!
    Ingolstance Read about my A6 HERE.

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    Cheers mate - well not cheap cheap but paid £1200..

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    Hi Rob,

    Reading between the lines here on this thread I would be treading real careful here before spending money at this car. At this point the cars not cost a massive amount but you could as pointed out earlier be for ever throwing money at it.

    Take the cam cover off and inspect them cams properly, take some photos also if your not sure and post them up. You could be facing a bill far greater than than the cost of the car just for putting the cams right. If the cams are worn you then have the option to just do the basics and hope to get another 1/2 years mot's, then you'll get your monies worth. Run the car for another couple of months at least to see if there are any other hidden problems.

    Good luck on the project, it would be great if this car could be nurtured back to it's best.

    John

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    Cheers mate - im certainly 50/50 with what to do on the car.
    im not planning of spending a whole heap of money.

    The things im working on first
    *Service (air,cabin,fuel,oil filters) and 5/40 fully sythetic oil. (on its way)
    *Front passanger wheel bearing (parts/tools need on way) and whilst writing this remembered to call my local garage to see if they can press the bearing in/out for me. 'depends on the car mate...audi A4...hmmm maybe?...how much...hmm depends how long it takes..' fills me with confidance?

    *Fix driver side door latch...
    I have started this by removing the door card and got the top star screw out for the door latch but managed to round the other one off!
    Q*****How the hell do I remove this now??

    Cheers

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    You don't need to press the bearing in, only thing you need to transfer is the hub into which the wheel bolts to. You will need a quality breaker bar and multi spline tool to undo the bolts, make sure the grooves are clean and tool locates properly as you don't want stripped bolt heads there !
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    Quote Originally Posted by adamss24 View Post
    You don't need to press the bearing in, only thing you need to transfer is the hub into which the wheel bolts to. You will need a quality breaker bar and multi spline tool to undo the bolts, make sure the grooves are clean and tool locates properly as you don't want stripped bolt heads there !
    Surely you.need a press to get the wheel bearing onto the hub?
    Audi A4 Cabriolet 2.5TDI 163 Sport
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    RobMorris's Avatar
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    Cheers Adam - regards to a press - the below says to use a press?

    Referring to this 'how to' DIY: Front wheel bearing replacement
    7.) Press the old bearing off the hub and press the new one on. I took mine down the street to Monro muffler, gave the guy a $20 bill, and he did it in 15 minutes. It does indeed take a press, you can't seperate the two any other way because as you can see in the photo, the hub is actually pressed onto the INSIDE of the bearing instead of the bearing being pressed to the inside of the hub on some other kinds of carrs.

    Old bearing and hub next to new bearing -


    New bearing on hub -

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    RobMorris's Avatar
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    Hmm what to do with this screw?
    It 'was' a star screw that ive managed to round off..
    I first tried drilling but after 15 mins i managed about 3mm
    then i cut a slit to try screwdriver out but im still not having any luck trying to get out
    any advice?

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    Ive read that this stuff might work? - JB Weld? A strong glue?!
    *** J-B WELD WORLDS FINEST COLD WELD - STRONG METAL TO METAL GLUE ADHESIVE *** | eBay

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    Can you get a pair of vise grips on the edge of the screw ?? If you can then they should slacken it.

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    Take it to a garage and have a bolt properly welded to it. The heat will help break the bond, and the ability to use a socket or a spanner will give you enough leverage to get it out. Or see if you can file some flats onto it and use mole grips? It's a royal pain though I expect!

    As regards that hub / press etc, while I wimped out of the job and took it to the garage, so I'm only able to pass on other people's advice and ideas, it could of course come out by the tried and tested methods of using a suitable socket and a lump hammer to drift it out, and (as suggested) the bolt method (or a vice) to press it back in.

    All I will say though is that I am reminded of the days I used to play with Land Rovers - where one recommended method of removing suspension bushes from the link arms was just that. I tried it. After several hours belting the bush with a drift and a hammer, I had broken two sockets and slightly damaged the arm. And the blasted bush was still stuck. So I jumped in the car (I was lucky - I had a second vehicle at the time - the Landy was now of course immobilized) and took it to my local friendly Landy expert. He tried a bigger hammer - - - and then stuck it in his press - and had to exert an enormous amount of force to get it out. Just saying -- - -

    Best of luck with both the current problems. Mike

  37. #36
    JimLoskot's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RobMorris View Post
    Hmm what to do with this screw?
    It 'was' a star screw that ive managed to round off..
    I first tried drilling but after 15 mins i managed about 3mm
    then i cut a slit to try screwdriver out but im still not having any luck trying to get out
    Have you got a proper spline bit? did you use a torx bit to round it off?

    To take the lock out you will need to remove the whole window assembly and the wiring for the mirror.
    Its not too difficult but I followed the haynes manual. Make sure you mark the position of the bolts holding the window assembly in place. I have exactly the same problem as you were the latch doesn't flip to the fully open and sometimes closes so when you shut the door it bounces back.
    I took my lock out and fully cleaned it and greased it up but it still does the same.
    I have just bought a new drivers lock off ebay for £28 (rather than £140 from TPS) and will be fitting it this week. When this is done and I'm sure its working properly, I am going to strip my old lock down and see if it is fixable (although it may be an explosion of springs and sprockets!) I will let you know if its doable when I've done it.
    Last edited by JimLoskot; 21st February 2013 at 17:58.
    2.5 tdi Quattro sport - PhatBox - DIS - Cruise - RS4 ARB - Remap - and a few other minor mods/retrofits
    2.0 TFSI A4 b7 cab - completely std for now... (the wife's car)

  38. #37
    RobMorris's Avatar
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    I used a torx.. I have a spline set coming now for future.
    Cheers il look forward to your 'how to'!
    have you a link to what you bought?

  39. #38
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    Interesting project. If it were me, I'd do the basics.

    Oil has been covered already, but Quantum which is basically repackaged as Castrol Edge is good. Use an Audi oil filter and change the air, pollen and fuel filter while you're there. Remember to top up the fuel filter with fresh diesel. You can run a can of Forte fuel conditioner through it first before changing it, which will help the injectors.

    Regards the interior, then its going to need a proper day's work, preferably on a warm, dry day. All fabrics and carpets will need to be steam cleaned after shampooing, possibly using a Polti steam cleaner. You can seal afterwards with 3M Scotchgard. Part of the trouble with heavy smokers is the roof lining, that's an absolute bu**er to clean, and difficult to replace.

    What about the timing belt? Any indication when it was changed last? If it goes, then the engine will be goosed. Allow £500 minimum to change, plus renew water pump, thermostat and auxilliary belts.

    Interior switches - simply clean up. Most donor car switches will be the same.

    Keep the pictures coming.
    2002 A2 1.4 TDi SE (125k)
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  40. #39
    RobMorris's Avatar
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    cheers mate - yeah i have been considering a fuel cleaner/conditioner - il have to do some reading up..
    I watched a youtube vid with a guy cleaning his seats using a rug doctor - i think i can hire one from a morrisons? or at least they used to hire them out when i last went in a few years ago?
    Timing belt im not going to do, it most likely needs one but its not in the budget for this car..

  41. #40
    JimLoskot's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RobMorris View Post
    I used a torx.. I have a spline set coming now for future.
    Cheers il look forward to your 'how to'!
    have you a link to what you bought?
    This is what I've bought:
    AUDI A4 B6 2001-2005 DRIVER SIDE DOOR LOCK/ MOTOR CATCH | eBay
    going to change it this weekend.

    Looks like that bolt will still come out with the spline bit. They're only about half inch long but have blue thread lock on.
    2.5 tdi Quattro sport - PhatBox - DIS - Cruise - RS4 ARB - Remap - and a few other minor mods/retrofits
    2.0 TFSI A4 b7 cab - completely std for now... (the wife's car)

 

 
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