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  1. #1
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    Anyone with 1.9 tdi , need some help with n75 valve and secondary air valve

    As above.. I have a 130avf 1.9 tdi sport.. When I bought my car the front end was stoved in and both solonoids behind drivers headlight was smashed. I replaced both with new ones but I think I have a problem... The reason I think this is when you switch my friends ignition on also a4 1.9tdi you can hear and see the anti shudder valve click (react) it sucks up and let's off, it also does this when you switch the ignition off and my car only does it when you switch ignition off NOT on. Normally this wouldn't bother me but sometimes I get real poor mpg 50miles to 10 litres and sometimes it's brilliant 70 to 7lt (£10). The car is only on 67k it's been fully serviced, it heats up to 90c quickly and no fault codes with vag. I done the timing belt and adjusted my torsion value to +0.5 and reads 0.4lph on idle the car starts first turn and runs sweet, am just wandering if anyone has a diagrham of how all the little vacumme pipes should be as there is load and wandering if I've out them on wrong...

    Also if you can be arsed can you go out, pop your bonnet and tell me if you can hear your anti shudder valve click in when ignition is switched ON, it's the little black plunger on the side of the egr. If you flick your ignition on and off a coupler of times you should hear what I'm on about. Mine only does it when I switch the ignition off

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  3. #2
    Ollie-B's Avatar
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    I posted a diagram in a thread last week al look for it now and my anti shudder valve doesnt work either ive been trying to follow my vac pipes but just cant decide if there all correct
    blacksmoke remap, 18" alloys, coilovers, heko wind deflectors, c/coded door blades, DIS, Cruise, votex front grille
    TO DO: fit my votex front valance (in the shed), c/code the rest of the lowers, sport interior

  4. #3
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    blacksmoke remap, 18" alloys, coilovers, heko wind deflectors, c/coded door blades, DIS, Cruise, votex front grille
    TO DO: fit my votex front valance (in the shed), c/code the rest of the lowers, sport interior

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    Quote Originally Posted by Ollie-B View Post
    Thanks for that, i'll take a look

    Been looking over the car today and notice the turbo actuator is making a squeeking hissing sort of noise, am thinking i need a new one. it still works as when you start the car you can see the plunger move. just wandering if anyone else has had the same sort of noise from there actuator. is there anyway i can check boost pressure via vagcom?

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    I went over my all my pipes yesterday and i was wrong my actuator is working. Everything is fine on mine now. apart from the valve thay controls my egr plunger was stuck and my egr was perminantly open, so i done a home made egr delete and it now runs perfect (still with working anti shudder - it only works when you turn your ignition off not on). Your egr may be leaking causing poor mpg.
    blacksmoke remap, 18" alloys, coilovers, heko wind deflectors, c/coded door blades, DIS, Cruise, votex front grille
    TO DO: fit my votex front valance (in the shed), c/code the rest of the lowers, sport interior

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    Quote Originally Posted by Ollie-B View Post
    I went over my all my pipes yesterday and i was wrong my actuator is working. Everything is fine on mine now. apart from the valve thay controls my egr plunger was stuck and my egr was perminantly open, so i done a home made egr delete and it now runs perfect (still with working anti shudder - it only works when you turn your ignition off not on). Your egr may be leaking causing poor mpg.
    Thanks for that.. if you plunger only kicks off when you switch ignition off then thats the same as mine so i guess thats ok, i have orderd a blanking plate off ebay only £3.

    The last thing i would like to know is what i said above.. if you hold the revs at just under 1100rpm you can here a squeeking/hissing sound coming from the turbo actuator and everytime it squeeks/hisses the engine judders. i know its the actuator as if you take the vac pipe off the noise goes away. i,ve read somewhere else about the actuators packing up and i dont mind buying a new one but obviously dont wanna buy one if not needed.

    thanks again ollie

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    Does it boost ok? Are yiu sure its the actuator itself and 2 of the ends of my braided vac pipes had small splits in them, just chopped the ends off and then they were good to go. Maybe if the vaccume is sucking against the actuator and its at a stop the vac pipe may be sucking air in causing the hiss/squeek. I may be wrong as ive not experience a hiss there myself
    blacksmoke remap, 18" alloys, coilovers, heko wind deflectors, c/coded door blades, DIS, Cruise, votex front grille
    TO DO: fit my votex front valance (in the shed), c/code the rest of the lowers, sport interior

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    ye it boost well, maybe a little to well. thats why i would like to check boost levels with vagcom but i dont know if i can do it with vagcom lite unregisterd or what channels its on or how to data log (complete newbie to vagcom)

    I've replaced all the vac pipes with silicone hoses and took one off at a time to make sure they went on how they should just incase some of them were split .

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    Ollie-B's Avatar
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    Ive never used vagcom yet so cant help with that im afraid. I was thinking about replacing all my vac pipes with silicone hoses but i wanst sure if they would do a good enough job with them being so supple and easily squashed (easily sucked inwards with vaccum) but i dunno i was actualy gona ask the question on here.
    blacksmoke remap, 18" alloys, coilovers, heko wind deflectors, c/coded door blades, DIS, Cruise, votex front grille
    TO DO: fit my votex front valance (in the shed), c/code the rest of the lowers, sport interior

  11. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nath-rszt View Post
    ye it boost well, maybe a little to well. thats why i would like to check boost levels with vagcom but i dont know if i can do it with vagcom lite unregisterd or what channels its on or how to data log (complete newbie to vagcom)

    I've replaced all the vac pipes with silicone hoses and took one off at a time to make sure they went on how they should just incase some of them were split .
    to check with vcds you go in to engine measuring block and its either channel 4 8 or 10 you want and I think it works in the lite version

    boost should spike at about 2100 then settle to about 1900

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    I normally work with petrol turbo engines and i know that silicone hoses can handles high boost pressure so am pretty sure they can handle light vacuum.

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    Quote Originally Posted by stu_m View Post
    to check with vcds you go in to engine measuring block and its either channel 4 8 or 10 you want and I think it works in the lite version

    boost should spike at about 2100 then settle to about 1900
    i know its not number 4 as thats what i used to check my cam timing but will check the others tommorow, also you say boost should spike at 2100 is that mbar? millibar as google conversion says that 2100 mbar is 30psi, am i getting something mixed up.

    Also do you know what channel in vag to check the MAF is?

    Thank you for you reply

  14. #13
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    yeah its in mBar

    I think MAF is also 8 just keep clicking up till you find it you cant go wrong

 

 

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