So I took the plunge and decided to fabricate a larger MAF housing. The decision came after reading (on other forums and websites) that noticeable gains can be found after such modification.
On a few American websites, there are larger ID MAF housings for sale, which is why I took the plunge and (considering I am kinda good with metal fabrications) decided to manufacture a 3.5" stainless steel tube into a MAF housing. No mean feet. Took a few hours to do in order to get the top hat square to the nominal tubing in order to get proper readings.
Anyway, today I decided to get it all together and actually see if the thing would work, and, well.....
Don't exactly know why, but car starts, then decides to run really low idle, then cut out.
I know theres something different that I should be doing, but dont for the life of me know what it is.
The mod goes hand-in-hand with other people out there who actually go out and buy a TT or VR6 MAF housing with a nominal ID of 3". I cant understand why 3.5" would make such a difference.
If there is anyone out there who understands why the housing would do such disheartening things, please input HERE!
I know that the MAF would be reading less air in comparison to the larger ID, but, I have no idea how to compensate. Any ideas?
The dimensions are:
3.5" Nominal Stainless Tubing at around 8" long (length shouldnt matter one bit)
30mm top hat extension (for sliding sensor into) @ 40mm diameter.
Adaptor flange for 2x screws (application wise) not extending top-hat length.
Anyone with fruitful input, dont be shy to post away.
Thanks in advance
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