B6 Timing belt tools?

[Dibs_h]

I'm due to do the timing belt on my B6 in a few weeks and lining stuff up (1.9Tdi 130 sport - can't remember what the eng code is, but will check it up).

Obviously no pump to lock off - the question I have is, can I use the same crank locking tool that I've used before on a B5 (AFN eng code)? Or is it different and need to get another one. The cam pulley - I understand you use a drill bit to lock that off with (6mm IIRC).

Cheers

Dibs

 

[stu_m]

do you know the part number of the one you have? the one you want is T10050

apparently they fit

Engine Codes:

Audi; AJM, AMF, ANY, ASZ, ATD, ATJ, AVB, AVF, AWX, AXR, BHC, BKC, Ford; ANU, ANY, Seat; AMF, ANU, ARL, AUY, Skoda; ATD, VW; AJM, AMF, ANU, ANY, ARL, ASZ, ATD, ATJ, AUY, AVB, AVF, AWX, AXR, AYZ

Locking Tool Set - VW/Audi | Tools in Stock, UK, selling Draper Tools, Sealey Tools, Laser timing tools, Gunson and Kamasa hand tools and power tools - air power tools, air tools, body shop, compressors, electric power, motorcycl

 

[Dibs_h]

Many thanks for the reply Stu. I've book marked a few of your posts from when you did yours. I dug out the tool on the weekend and still had the plastic blister (& card) that it came in. Will have a look this afternoon. From memory, it was Laser tools branded, so will report back on what the part number was.

Dibs

 

[adamss24]

Never had to use a crankshaft locking tool on AFN engines ? You sure you don't have the PD crank locking tool ?

 

[Dibs_h]

Did a complete rebuilt an AFN engine for a 110 se a few years ago and the tools - pump locking bolt, camshaft locking plate, tensioner tool, & crank locking tool - were bought for that.

Going to look at the tool when I get home this afternoon & double check.

IIRC - the AFN does\can use the crank locking tool - if you lock the cam & pump, once the belt comes off, nothing stops the crank from moving. Obviously whether someone uses one themselves or not - that's another thing.

The current car - B6, is the 1st PD I've owned.

Cheers

Dibs

 

[adamss24]

On the old VE engine the camshaft sprocket is tapered so it needs to be taken off the cam so when you tension the belt tensioner the crank does not move but the cam sproket turns as the tensioner takes up the slack ! The crank tool is a "bandaid" and puts un-necessary stress on the belt ! As i said, only cam and pump needs locking to keep the crank and cam in phase to each other and the pump timing is adjusted by undoing the 4 bolts and spinning on its axis...whilst watching it with VCDS. There's 0 and 1marks on the flywheel when you look trough the inspection window, you put it to 0 then it won't move past 1. If it moves past 1 repeat the timing procedure + you spin the engine by hand a few times and make sure all marks line up. Been doing engines for years, never had one fail !

On the pd the cam has a wodruff key so the outer sprocket is adjustable + the crank is locked in place with the locking tool. You still need VCDS to adjust timing/syncro angle as close as possible to 0 in measuring block 04 !

 

[Dibs_h]

I do remember the cam being on a tapered sprocket on the AFN. At the time - not having done any work on an AFN before - just bought the "recommended" tools.

Obviously reading up to death on the PD timing belt and watching the SKF video that Stu posted - yes, the difference between the 2 has been noticed, thanks for the reminder.

Am I right in thinking that to adjust the timing - if it is out slightly in VCDS - you get it back to TDC, loosen the cam sprocket and adjust it a "smidge"? Clockwise or counter-clockwise?

Cheers

Dibs

 

[stu_m]

have a read of these they may help a little too

How to adjust rough idle and camshaft timing on VW and Audi TDI pumpe duse engine

Browser Warning

once i locked all mine up and fitted the new belt it was bang on 0° syncro angle

 

[Dibs_h]

The links are much appreciated Stu! At least the VCDS will come in handy! LOL!

Now just need to figure out whether to change the oil cooler at the same time as the belt\water pump.

Cheers

Dibs

 

[stu_m]

If there is a problem with it I would while you are in there

 

[Dibs_h]

Not sure it's a problem and the cooler's aren't cheap either. Every since I've had the car - 2yrs now and about 40k miles - there's always been some dried coolant residue around the coolant pipe "join".

The car has probably not taken more than 1/4 - 1/2 a litre of coolant in that time.

Just unsure of whether these things (oil coolers) fail or in the case of a B6 are known to fail?

Cheers

Dibs

 

[stu_m]

I've never heard of one failing but doesn't mean to say it wont!

I'm not sure how they connect up but could it be a seal on the pipe? or could the coolant have dripped/run down to that part from somewhere else?

I've done 6k since I did my belt and water pump and noticed a leak the other week it looked like it was leaking from the water pump but upon inspection its one of the top hoses and its just run down to below the water pump a new hose clamp fixed it

 

[Dibs_h]

do you know the part number of the one you have? the one you want is T10050

apparently they fit

Engine Codes:

Audi; AJM, AMF, ANY, ASZ, ATD, ATJ, AVB, AVF, AWX, AXR, BHC, BKC, Ford; ANU, ANY, Seat; AMF, ANU, ARL, AUY, Skoda; ATD, VW; AJM, AMF, ANU, ANY, ARL, ASZ, ATD, ATJ, AUY, AVB, AVF, AWX, AXR, AYZ

Locking Tool Set - VW/Audi | Tools in Stock, UK, selling Draper Tools, Sealey Tools, Laser timing tools, Gunson and Kamasa hand tools and power tools - air power tools, air tools, body shop, compressors, electric power, motorcycl

Just checked the one I have and it's the following one,

Laser Tools 3241 Crankshaft Locking Tool For VW - C157

which is an equivalent to OEM OEM T10050 - so that's one less thing to worry about. Am I right in thinking that I can use a 6mm drill bit to lock the cam?

Will be plugging my CVDS to get the readings for measuring blocks 13 & 4 - so then can check afterwards.

Cheers

Dibs

 

[stu_m]

yeah you can use a 6mm drill bit to lock the cam

you may need to make a locking tool for the belt tensioner if its a hydraulic one though

 

[Dibs_h]

yeah you can use a 6mm drill bit to lock the cam

you may need to make a locking tool for the belt tensioner if its a hydraulic one though

Stu

Just got the timing belt kit out (genuine one) and the tensioner is like the following, and has a locking pin in it already,

which on the back looks like this,

So I assume you are on about the tool that has 2 prongs to allow you to set the pointer, like this one?

If it's this one - yes I have one - saw it on the weekend in the garage, now just need to remember where! LOL! Or do you mean the auxiliary belt tensioner?

Cheers

Dibs

 

[stu_m]

You don't have the hydraulic one so your fine you only really need the locking tools which you now have and the pin included in the kit

The rest can be done with tools from a basic tool kit

 

[glenandem]

hi guys,im about to do my cambelt too, i used to be a mechanic and worked on allsorts and too be honest this looks a fairly simple belt to do to me but do i really need to have the locking tools or is it one of the belts where you can line it up swap the belt etc and spin the engine by hand a few times and recheck timing marks or does it have to be absolutly spot on with locking tools and if so does anyone know any cheap locking kits on ebay etc to do the job?

 

[stu_m]

The old tip ex way will just not cut it as you have to loosen the cam sprocket when you put the new one on and tension it I got a full set for the 1.9 and 2.0 tdi for 15 quid on eBay

 

[glenandem]

hi pal,cheers replying,didnt realise these had a moving pully in that case i best get a kit!
seen one on ebay for only £13 so might as well get one at that price lol!

 

[stu_m]

yeah once you lock the top and bottom up you take the belt off and undo the three bolts on the cam sprocket move the cam so its three bolts are centered fit the new belt, tensioners and rollers then tension it up when you tension it the slack gets taken up on the right hand side of the belt between the crank and cam which the cam sprocket allows this to happen as it is loose then you tighten the three bolts back up