a4 b6 (190) induction kit????

Bean5

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as above, i have an a4 b6 1.8t, and i want to get an induction kit of some sort that will give that usual grunt when under acceleration....i currently have a pipperX panel filter but has not changed the tone of the engine noise at all.
i have just put new tailpipes on my standard exhaust so will be keeping this for the time bein.... i just want it to sound more sporty!!!

can anyone recomend a solution and how much/ best place to get one from??
 
Id recomend the Carbonio induction kit. I only bought it for looks. There is also a nice little grunt that comes off it along with a decent sounding dump of boost as you let the throttle go.
 
looks great, have looked into them before, qutie pricey if i remember rightly? have u got a sound clip? have searched yotube, but wasnt much on there.
 
all that is, is a expencive version of the audi oem box.

the oem box flows more then enough. i think them carbon fibre boxes are very expensive for what they are
 
they are deer, but i want a grunty "baugh" under acceleration.

and would akso love a slight turbo "tttsss"​
 
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Buy a samco tip, a metal adapter and a jetex cone filter
 
looks great, have looked into them before, qutie pricey if i remember rightly? have u got a sound clip? have searched yotube, but wasnt much on there.

Sorry no sound clip. There is one video on You tube if i remember rite. They do sound louder than stock setup and give you the Dump valve sound your looking for. Even more so on a mapped car.

all that is, is a expencive version of the audi oem box.

the oem box flows more then enough. i think them carbon fibre boxes are very expensive for what they are

Yes they are expensive but they look nice lol

Only reason i bough it was to replace the rusty metal mesh universal airfilter the previous owner had slapped on. As i didnt have the standard airbox to replace it.
 
What engine code?

The TIP roughly £150, gives much better throttle response and will give the "pssshhhhh" dump sound you want.

The jetex filters can be found on thier website, i am not sure of the size £50 approx?
 
Sorry but a tip with a open cone filter is going to do nothing but suck in hot air straight off the manifold. Yes it will make plenty noise but he will loose performance.
 
Hot air???

How hot do you think the turbo is that's sucking air in in the first place lol
 
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Don't apologise for your opinion.
 
plus, it dosnt matter if you make a cold air feed, the air going in is the same air cooling the intercooler.
like above as soon as it hits the turbo its hotter then the temps of under the hood.
only way your loose performance is if the maf reads incoming air temps. but think iirc its on the inlet manifold
 
ok so my previous post was based on what ive been told on forums for many years.

but came across this and has now i understand, and wish i could go back to the threads and link this lol any how,

Compressor Efficiency and Temperature - DSM Forums


and this is the bits to read that make sence

The other variable in the equation that's very important, but many people seem to neglect in the practice of building turbo cars, is the temperature of the air going into the compressor. Many people have the misconception that performance is unaffected because the intercooler will cool the air enough regardless of the air temp going into the turbo. What they are neglecting is the fact that compressor performance improves with cooler air. Said another way, it gets worse with taking in hotter air

the hotter the air going into the compressor, the more power is required to compress it. Also, the increase in the air temperature is greater. Of course, this results in the final temperature being even hotter. I think comparing air inlet temps of 77F and 122F is reasonable; 77F being ambient air temp and 122F being the temp if you ingest air from the engine bay. So by sucking up the hotter engine bay air instead of cooler air from the front of the car, the compressor power required increases by 4.3hp, or about 8%. The difference in the temperature coming out of the compressor is a toasty 60.1F making theintercooler work that much harder.

we can see how much energy needs to be pulled from the exhaust based on the temperature of the air going into the turbo. The difference in power required going from 77F and 122F is a lag inducing 11.9 hp, or about 8%.

So what have we learned? Maximizing compressor and turbine efficiencies reduces the exhaust energy required to get a turbo going. Sucking in colder air instead of hot air also makes compressors happy
 
Drill the under side of the airbox, this not only improves flow but with the filter still housed in the box stops warm air being drawn in as can happen with cone filters.

Have it on my TT and on my A4, google Wakbox to see how they're done on the TT, I used the same principals on the A4..

Will give you a bit of a deeper noise that your looking for and best of all it's free, or the cost of a hole saw if you don't have one..
 
quite untrue^^^^

drilling the bottom will actually suck in more hot air from the bay, and if its a turbo then the heat is right next to it.

the way you want to do it is drill a 2" hole in the front and then run a 2" pipe and still use the oem snorkel.

this way you reduce intake restriction and still retain a sealed box,

or what ive done is remove the box and run a cold air feed tucked in a void to stop any debry right up to the maf no filter. but then thats me. i have also made a heat sheild and used sponge from a old bucket seat and duct tape to create a foam seal at the top

intake temps stay around 25/27 degree
 

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