Hid problems!

[stu_m]

I've had hid's fitted for about a year now and they worked great until recently!

I started getting the passenger side not turning on all the time so had to turn them off and back on again and all was ok

So to try and figure the problem out I borrowed a ballast off a mate to try and it made no difference! These are also wired through a relay so I removed it and use original wiring still no difference

Yesterday I swapped the bulbs to see if it moved to the other side and now both of them don't come on first go!

These are cheap eBay specials 55w ballast's and bulbs

I have checked all connections and all are good plenty of power at the plug

Any ideas? Or do I just buy a decent hid kit and go from there!

 

[Viking]

Leaving aside the probable argument about legality, dazzling other drivers, etc...

Personally I'd swap the kit for a proper quality one, like from HIDs4u. I've done the cheap ebay kits and then the HIDs4u kit, and the difference is night & day (see what I did there...).

No need for 55w either, my 35w HIDs4u kit was plenty good enough.

 

[Greeny233]

i have the same problem, it's just the HID's interfering with the can bus electrical system on the car (something to do with the difference in resistance of a bulb and the hid bulb) . You just need to get a better quality kit.

 

[stu_m]

i have the same problem, it's just the HID's interfering with the can bus electrical system on the car (something to do with the difference in resistance of a bulb and the hid bulb) . You just need to get a better quality kit.

How would this affect them turning on?

 

[hades-]

How would this affect them turning on?

cos its a crap kit you have got

 

[stu_m]

cos its a crap kit you have got

What's the can bus system got to do with the lights not turning on?

I have measured power at the ballast and its over 12 volts when they don't turn on so its not the system cutting the power or anything like that!

I don't see how the can bus system can stop the lights coming on unless it cut the power which its not

So yes I would agree with the crap kit just not working even though it has power but I can't see the can bus system stopping them working!

 

[Viking]

There's been a few reports on forums of cheap hid kits burning out essential vehicle functions (wipers are common) via the canbus system.

 

[quattrojames]

There's been a few reports on forums of cheap hid kits burning out essential vehicle functions (wipers are common) via the canbus system.

That's happened to A3's - I've never heard of it happen to an A4 have you?

 

[Viking]

To be honest I've not taken an awful lot of notice, but there's a lingering memory of it affecting particularly Audis. Then again, it may just be something I read on a cornflake box one morning.

 

[vr6gordy]

when you buy a kit make sure you get a blocker with it so it wont it wont upset the canbus

 

[stu_m]

when you buy a kit make sure you get a blocker with it so it wont it wont upset the canbus

Any recommendations? I don't want mega expensive and I don't want cheap crap again

 

[vr6gordy]

i got a slim line kit with blocker for 60 quid and it mint

 

[stu_m]

Where from? Got a link?

 

[vr6gordy]

got it from a show

 

[stu_m]

Ah that's no good lol

I've seen a few kits on hid's direct for around 70

 

[Woorlord]

to clarify, CAN-BUS compatible kits either have a device in the ballast or an external parallel resistor that fool the DIS thinking it has a good halogen bulb at the expected resistance.

As well documented over the years, other interference can be created at switch on if the ballasts are near the crash sensors which are located next to the headlights and radiator. Similar interference can be induced near the ABS unit on the n/s headlight. This in turn can flash up ABS or Brake errors on the dashboard. The reason for this is the cheap and some expensive aftermarket kits generate a high voltage of around 23kilo-volts (kV) to energise the Xenon gas in the bulb in the ballast and this voltage is fed via HT leads to the bulb. The fact that these leads are not screened causes them to act as a radio transmitter causing all sorts of random interference. Just like good old spark plug leads before ignition coils per cylinder where a suppressor (capacitor) was required to stop car radio interference.

Car manufacturers use a ballast and a low voltage cable control link to an igniter which bolts directly to the bulb and hence do not use HT leads. The igniter and ballast are all screened as they are made from a sealed metal enclosure - even the connecting low voltage cable has heavy braided screening. This is the best solution for HID's on cars with complicated electronics like Audi. Check out the Valeo HID retrofit in the stickies.

With regard to the original posted problem, it's a case of being methodical and first checking the vehicle wiring works with a standard halogen bulb as this will draw current in line with 55W power and should indicate if all wiring and connections are good. I wonder why the wiring has been modified for switching through a relay - this may suggest there have been problems with the wiring previously as headlight switching is controlled through the Power Control unit under the steering wheel area - does all light switching and wipers etc. A standard HID kit will be 35W so will draw less current.

Perhaps also check the HID left and right units with a good 12v supply - make some test wires and connect to the battery maybe? Could be the ballast can not generate the switch on high voltage to energise the gas.

Beware that HID's use VERY HIGH VOLTAGES that can potentially KILL you so know what you are doing!!!!!

 

[stu_m]

to clarify, CAN-BUS compatible kits either have a device in the ballast or an external parallel resistor that fool the DIS thinking it has a good halogen bulb at the expected resistance.......

So what are you fooling the DIS for? is it just for bulb out errors? if so my electronics module doesnt support bulb out warnings my car is the lowline one and doesnt have all this

even when I fitted cruise and trip the bulb warnings are none existent!

as for the relay it was added to bypass the OE wiring so not to burn it out as I was advised to but it turns out I don't need it the OE wiring has not been modified the relay runs off the OE wiring to switch the relay on then takes a power feed straight off the battery to power the HID's this wiring powers both lights and still one light will come on but the other wouldn't! so to me its a problem with the kit somewhere be it either a bad connection, ballast or bulbs god knows!

the OE wiring powers 55w halogens fine with no problems apart from you cant see in the dark!!

I'm thinking its just a crap kit thats starting to give up or something so will buy a new kit and go from there!

 

[amar06fbr]

I have a set of OEM xenon headlights inc bulbs and ballast.
Classifieds: Audi A4 B6 Front OEM XENONS

 

[Woorlord]

So what are you fooling the DIS for? is it just for bulb out errors? if so my electronics module doesnt support bulb out warnings my car is the lowline one and doesnt have all this

even when I fitted cruise and trip the bulb warnings are none existent!

as for the relay it was added to bypass the OE wiring so not to burn it out as I was advised to but it turns out I don't need it the OE wiring has not been modified the relay runs off the OE wiring to switch the relay on then takes a power feed straight off the battery to power the HID's this wiring powers both lights and still one light will come on but the other wouldn't! so to me its a problem with the kit somewhere be it either a bad connection, ballast or bulbs god knows!

the OE wiring powers 55w halogens fine with no problems apart from you cant see in the dark!!

I'm thinking its just a crap kit thats starting to give up or something so will buy a new kit and go from there!

DIS fooling is simply for bulb out errors.

As you rightly say and diagnosed, Halogens light up so all good - points to a duff HID kit then.

 

[stu_m]

what I do find strange is that it was one side not lighting up but now its both and its not independent either if they fail to ignite its always both and when they work its always both!

I think I will have to investigate even more before shelling out for a new kit

 

[PhilW]

Did you get this sorted?

My drivers side keeps going out and ive tried 3 bulbs and 2 ballasts. Mine is an old style box 55w ones. No lights on the dash or codes coming up on vag com.

 

[stu_m]

No still keeps doing it

Although its both sides now too even swapped to an old style ballast and that was the same

I have checked voltages and I'm getting 14 volts at the ballast when the car is running I'm not too worried at the min as when its dark the car is usually at home anyway its when it gets to winter I will be buying a full new kit and go from there