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  1. #1
    alpesh26's Avatar
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    DIY: Mr Muscle Turbo Clean

    I know that a few people have been wondering how to do the Mr Muscle turbo cleaning so this is my how-to on the way I cleaned mine. I chose to take the exhaust off the turbo rather than trying to get it down the EGR pipe just in case it got into somewhere it shouldn't. I take no responsibility if you wreck something whilst doing this!!

    My car is a B7 1.9TDi 115BHP (BKE) I imagine most 1.9's are laid similarly to this.

    Things you need:
    • 12mm spanner/socket & ratchet
    • 10mm spanner/socket & ratchet
    • 8mm spanner/socket & ratchet
    • Phillips screwdriver (a flat head might be handy to prise clips off)
    • WD40 with straw
    • Mr Muscle oven cleaner (the one in the compressed aerosol tin, not the plastic bottle type)
    • Washing up liquid to get the hoses back on easily
    1. First of all remove the engine cover (3 x 10mm bolts) and air tunnel that's on the left hand side of the engine bay. Remove the 2 phillips screws from the front and pull it out of the air box from the back.



    2. Undo the jubilee clip that holds the fat hose onto the airbox and pull the hose off. Unplug the MAF conector and pull off the clips that hold the MAF wires onto the airbox and put this somewhere out of the way so it doesnt get damaged.

    3. Unscrew the 2 phillips screws that hold the air filter in and pull the cover and air filter away. This should reveal the turbo.

    4. On the back of the turbo is the other end of the fat hose that you took off the air box. Undo the 8mm bolts that hold this to the turbo and pull the pipe off. There is also a bit from this pipe that is held onto the rocker cover, you don't need to undo this.



    5. Now you need to remove the exhaust from the turbo. This is held on with 3 bolts. You'll need a deep 12mm socket to remove these because the threads are quite long (when I put the bolts back on I put some washers on to reduce the length of the threads). I recommend you soak the bolts in WD40 because the back bolt is a b**ch to get off. Once you've removed the 3 bolts you will be able to pull back the exhaust pipe to reveal the hot side of the turbo.
    Tip: remove the top bolt last because it will hold the weight of the exhaust whilst you undo the 2 bottom/side bolts.

    6. Take the nozzle that comes with Mr Muscle can off and replace it with the one off the WD40 can. Use the straw and spray the foam into the turbo. I found some heat shrink which I put over the WD40 straw to make it longer. Keep spraying until the foam comes out. Remember to put a tissue under the turbo so it catches any excess foam that comes out. It will look something like this:



    7. Once the Mr Muscle is in there, you need to move the actuator arm up and down. This is sort of hidden behind the turbo, but you can get to it with bent long nosed pliers. The arm the black round rod but with some flat bits sticking out of it at the top, you should also be able to see a knurled wheel at the top of it. Grip the rod with the pliers and move it up and down a few times. I moved this for a bit then left the foam for an hour, then moved the arm again. I cleared off the excess and put some more foam into the turbo and wiggled the actuator arm again. Mine was quite free, but the spring inside is quite strong so you'll need to put some effort into moving it.



    8. Once you're happy with the cleaning, you need to put everything back in the reverse order. Make sure everything is on tight so you dont get any leaks.

    9. Take the car for a spin. I got a puff of black smoke on start up (mine seems to do this anyway), and it threw some out when I revved the engine a little. I let the engine get up to 90 degrees, then floored it in 3rd up to the redline and the same through 4th and held it on redline revs for 30 secs or so until no more black smoke came out.

    It's hard to say whether its made any difference to my car, as few people have said that the difference isn't noticeable at first, it'll take a while. This was the case when I cleaned my EGR and inlet manifold too. I know that it hasn't fixed my judder

    I hope this helps a few people. Mods - feel free to make this a sticky if its of any use.
    Last edited by alpesh26; 13th June 2012 at 19:08.
    Audi A4 B7 1.9TDi SE | Auto Lights, Wipers & Dimming Mirror | Cruise Control | DIS

    Mod's so far: Ambient light, Cupra R splitter, 4300k HID's, Painted Brake Calipers & Hubs, Dice Electronics iPod & Aux, Leather Armrest, Interior, Sidelight & Number Plate LED's, Curry Hooks, Tie Downs, Ambient Footwell LED's, Footwell Lights, Shadow Chrome S-Line (RS6) wheels, Mudflaps, Votex Rear Diffuser, RS4 Rear ARB

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  3. #2
    Andi25th's Avatar
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    Good write up.

    I wouldn't recommend grease for putting hoses back on. Use washing up liquid instead as it dries out and less likely to pop off under boost.

  4. #3
    alpesh26's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Andi25th View Post
    Good write up.

    I wouldn't recommend grease for putting hoses back on. Use washing up liquid instead as it dries out and less likely to pop off under boost.
    Cheers!

    I've edited the grease bit.
    Audi A4 B7 1.9TDi SE | Auto Lights, Wipers & Dimming Mirror | Cruise Control | DIS

    Mod's so far: Ambient light, Cupra R splitter, 4300k HID's, Painted Brake Calipers & Hubs, Dice Electronics iPod & Aux, Leather Armrest, Interior, Sidelight & Number Plate LED's, Curry Hooks, Tie Downs, Ambient Footwell LED's, Footwell Lights, Shadow Chrome S-Line (RS6) wheels, Mudflaps, Votex Rear Diffuser, RS4 Rear ARB

 

 

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