Did it at my mates garage & he had a load of belts in stock, so I'll find out which belt was used on Monday, & post it up.
AIR CON PULLEY ISSUE
- Thread starter Leaky Lloyd
- Start date
My late (2005 registered B6 130 6 speed) has started to rattle at idle but only when cold, I have tracked it to the AC pulley as you can turn the outer by hand and make it clack, so the rubber bumpers are shot... Has anyone got one of the replacements from German ebay and just swapped the rubbers over? (Looking for a quicker easier fix at home as I need the car back on the road asap in the new year)
Cheers
Karl
Cheers
Karl
I just bought a 2004 2.5 A4 in poor condition and the air con isn't working. Checked the gas and it was full. No Econ button lit.
Was having a probe under the bonnet and spotted no belt! Anyone fitted one ... is it hassle? Wonder if it was removed for a reason?
Was having a probe under the bonnet and spotted no belt! Anyone fitted one ... is it hassle? Wonder if it was removed for a reason?
It was removed to put on a shorter belt to bypass the compressor. This was done because the compressor seized. This can make the car sound like a bag of spanners with the pulley included in the OEM belt path as the pulley can be rattling around causing noise. With the bag of loose metal (which is what the compressor is now) you never know how long the pulley might freewheel for, it might seize itself and then scream on the belt before snapping it.
So you put a shorter belt on to forget about it. I know because this is what I had to do. If you want to check the compressor status, move the pulley with your hand. If it freewheels in both directions (and you can't feel it engage the compressor internals) then the compressor long ago seized internally and is useless. Also look for damage (metal shearing) on the front plate of the pulley around the centre bolt.
The system will still be charged, and you won't scan any errors (you will scan an error on low charge) but you are wasting your time putting the longer belt back on without a new compressor (and then a re-gass). You can swap belts just reaching down, using an adjustable wrench to manipulate the top tensioner, without moving anything, but a waste of time as I say.
Go into my post history if you'd like more information on swapping the compressor. Attached pic shows short belt path / long belt path / tensioner (black arrow). Your current installation will be as per right image (belt path modification highlight in red bypassing compressor).
So you put a shorter belt on to forget about it. I know because this is what I had to do. If you want to check the compressor status, move the pulley with your hand. If it freewheels in both directions (and you can't feel it engage the compressor internals) then the compressor long ago seized internally and is useless. Also look for damage (metal shearing) on the front plate of the pulley around the centre bolt.
The system will still be charged, and you won't scan any errors (you will scan an error on low charge) but you are wasting your time putting the longer belt back on without a new compressor (and then a re-gass). You can swap belts just reaching down, using an adjustable wrench to manipulate the top tensioner, without moving anything, but a waste of time as I say.
Go into my post history if you'd like more information on swapping the compressor. Attached pic shows short belt path / long belt path / tensioner (black arrow). Your current installation will be as per right image (belt path modification highlight in red bypassing compressor).
Thanks ... really useful. Why someone wouldn't fix their air con boggles my mind. It's not nice driving around without it?
I will give it a try at the weekend and confirm the bad news.
Thanks again for the info! Will report back my findings ..
I will give it a try at the weekend and confirm the bad news.
Thanks again for the info! Will report back my findings ..