Radio causing battery drain? 00858

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twist123

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Hi Guys,


Some of you have been helping out with my parasitic drain issue (thanks), flagged up some CCM codes and some door lock codes, I found some sheared wires in the door, last place I checked! (AAARRGGHHHH!!), fixed them so no more weird codes when scanning modules, however, the hazard still stays on till I reset a radio code I have....


00858 - Connection; Radio ZF Output to Antenna Amplifier - Short to Ground
36-00 - Open Circuit


When I clear this code it comes back immediately but what I did notice is that even though it comes back, I pull vag cable, lock car and hazard goes off! Result! but the hazard comes back on by my next drive, I can only think its shorting with the cold mornings? Im guessing this means this is definitely causing my drain issue?


What should I do now? Unplug the antenna amp? Anybody else with this issue shed some light?


Thanks again!
 
Last edited:
Scrap that, not radio

Latest code (first time Ive had this)

01134 - Alarm Horn (H12)
29-00 - Short to Ground
 
The antenna error is usually a sign of wrong antenna system fitted, but doenst usually drain battery, although there's a known radio fault which does drain battery, radio swap out is the fix by audi, but lets not panic just yet :)

Which radio is installed presently & is it originally supplied with car from factory?
 
Thanks for the replies guys, its a standard Concert 2, car is 01 B6 A4, Im guessing the antenna amp is cracked, not to bothered about listening to radio, its the battery drain thats annoying. Im guessing its the original radio fitted by Audi, Im 2nd owner.


Hazard light off this morning, did a voltage reading had 12.55V hazard off till I unlocked car, then locked it to check if it would stay off and it was on again, drove to work, used my autel 405 and only code I picked up was radio which I cleared, checked a few other modules, HVAC, ABS, Convenience but no codes, cleared anyway. Locked car, hazard off.

Getting annoying as I need to plug in the 405 or Vagcom at night or AM to turn off hazard then theres no battery drain at all.
 
Last edited:
Try removing hazard button for now, have known some issues with these.

You got a pic of your radio please.
 
Thanks again. I have tried swapping over with a known working hazard and get the same result. I put my switch in my wifes A4 and all works as it should. So not the switch.

This is the same radio I have.

concert2.jpg
 
Does anyone know what the relays under the driver side dash and the fuses under the ECU in the engine bay do? Just wondering if one of these isnt gone and causing a short?
 
Bit more info, a couple weeks back I pulled fuse 24 (convenience module), hazard went off immediately but Im convinced its not the CCM but rather something in the "loop" like the alarm siren or similar. I will try pull it again and see what it does.
 
Now when I try clear codes the hazard wont go out at all. Sigh.
 
Can you locate the siren and disconnect it? Or does it just go off if you do that?

You don't get the three beeps synonymous with a failing siren battery do you? Does the siren still work? You can either test the alarm, or enable the "beep when locking" option via VAGcom.
 
Hi James, will try at the weekend, Im familiar with the beep from my wifes ex A3, mine does not do that. You may be onto something there as it does seem this part fails often so will check.


Thanks for the advice.
 
audi upgrades
Right, pulled fuse 24 and can confirm it turns the hazard off. Only info I have on systems this controls is as follows.


#24 - Central Convenience Electrical System - Map, Glovebox, Vanity, Trunk and Overhead Lights.


Anybody know if there is anything else it does?


Thanks
 
twist123 said:
Hi James, will try at the weekend, Im familiar with the beep from my wifes ex A3, mine does not do that. You may be onto something there as it does seem this part fails often so will check.


Thanks for the advice.
Click to expand...

No problem, I did mention it in post 3 ....... :whistle2:
 
Saw that, didnt really think it would be that as I know they beep when it goes but Im willing to try anything now before I send to a AutoElec. Electrical issues are such a pain, gimme something mechanical and its not a problem.


One thing that puzzles me a bit is when I pull fuse 24 the hazard goes off, this fuse has nothing to do with the alarm as I can set the alarm/central locking etc even when fuse is pulled.
 
Spoke to an auto elec, he said theres probably a split in wiring looms in the doors or one of the door modules is gone, or one of the locks or the CCM is knackered.


He says the CAN system doesnt allow the CCM to power down completely until 20 mins has passed, after that if the system doesnt read as all OK, it stays live.


He said its a PIA and takes time to figure it out. Best bet is to unplug all doors and CCM - drain should drop to about 20-30 milliamps. Strip doors check looms.


Ive already looked at removing the rear door lock and that was a nightmare. How the hell did Audi make so many mistakes with wiring, switches and stupid placement of CCM. Beginning to hate this car :(
 
Update, think its got something to do with interior monitoring, when I VCDS I get no codes in interior monitoring or central convenience, I go into measuring blocks in interior monitoring, 01 = 001. Then I turn off ignition while still in measuring blocks, remote lock car 01 quickly shows 000 then back to 001.

Close controller, go into convenience, read codes, code 01616-signal wire to interior monitor, clear that. Hazard off. Drain gone till next drive.
 
Another update: Definitely interior monitoring by the looks of it, went outside started car, turned off, hazard on when locking. VCDS plugged in, read codes, no codes, measuring blocks, 01 = 001, lock car and it quickly changes to 000 then back to 001. Turned off Vagcom, locked, LED blinks for a second for about 30 seconds then hazard off as led blinks about once every 4 seconds.

Anyone know whats going on?
 
Well on the 8P for example, the wire in question comes from the drivers door, on the original 8P's they had a 2 pin connector with a single black wire that was plugged into the door card, which inturn was plugged into the door panel connector which must have gone to the conv modulke, then they moved it direct to the door module itself on later 8P's, so trace this wire on the B6, if it goes through the door aswell, check the door grommet for any broken wiring 1st.
 
Now were cooking, a week ago I had some uninsulated (sheath came off) door wires, driver side, one was red/black the other brown, I taped these up and all convenience codes cleared, I couldnt see any others damaged behind the rubber boot but from what youre saying there may well be. So I guess its a card off wiring out job to check continuity.

I noticed the driver door fuse was a little scorched but works fine, Id imagine its from the wires shorting in the door rubber. Wonder if this constant short couldve killed the regulator door module? No VCDS errors though.
 
Note I said the 8P, not to say B6 is the same, but logic suggests this, so for sure check the grommet between the door & the car pillar 1st :)
 
Checked the grommet, but cant see any other broken wires so Ill rip the lot out of the door. Another weekend filled with fun!

I would assume youre on the right lines as CCM is affected by door wiring, modules and locks as Ive since discovered and it makes sense for all the central wiring and immobilizer to also be the same as I know the lock switches definitely send signals.

Just annoying that Vagcom cant point me in the right direction on this occasion.
 
open the door m8 then try your electrics see if they still work.... mine wouldnt this is how i found my broken wires, easy fix tbh
 
hi mark, all door electrics are fine, dash display, lights, windows etc.but Will try open all the way tomorrow and update. Hopefully this will become the master of all things in a thread to check if your battery drains!
 
Another quick update, unplugged the motion sensor in the light above driver and hazard goes off.


Are there any fuses or relays that this sensor or the interior monitoring/immobiliser etc. are connected through I can check as there are none in the dash on the left of the driver.


Any under the steering wheel or under the ECU as I think I read under the ECU there is a immobiliser fuse?


Thanks for helping everyone!
 
Only weird thing I can find is that the left and right rear windows measuring block content are different? Windows are operated by crank if that helps..... Any ideas?

Capture.jpg


Capture2.jpg
 
Check your coding for the conv module, maybe something obscure is coded or possible module fault.
 
Thanks for the continued help NHN, how do I check coding for the convenience module? Module fault? Do you mean the rear door module? Arent these usually attached to the window motor like in the front? My rears have winders so does this mean the lock itself is the module?
 
twist123 said:
Hi Guys,


Some of you have been helping out with my parasitic drain issue (thanks), flagged up some CCM codes and some door lock codes, I found some sheared wires in the door, last place I checked! (AAARRGGHHHH!!), fixed them so no more weird codes when scanning modules, however, the hazard still stays on till I reset a radio code I have....


00858 - Connection; Radio ZF Output to Antenna Amplifier - Short to Ground
36-00 - Open Circuit


When I clear this code it comes back immediately but what I did notice is that even though it comes back, I pull vag cable, lock car and hazard goes off! Result! but the hazard comes back on by my next drive, I can only think its shorting with the cold mornings? Im guessing this means this is definitely causing my drain issue?


What should I do now? Unplug the antenna amp? Anybody else with this issue shed some light?


Thanks again!
Click to expand...

Hi Twist!

I have the same problem as you. I'm suffering it for months from now...
The unplugging of the motion sensor did solved it hazard?
I'm waiting for your reply

Thank you very much.
 
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