Rear ARB replacement - suggestions

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jbcalvin

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Hi Guys,

Jut had some work done to the car and have been advised that the rear ARB collars are knackered and the car needs a new ARB.

I have a 1.9 TDI quattro avant, so what do I need to order to do this work, do I need to replace the drop links as well, what type of bushes should I fit, etc etc....

The OH drives the car mostly so not sure if I should go the whole hog and get the RS4 one, have heard reports that doing this does make the car more tail happy...

Any suggestions and part numbers appreciated as usual...

Cheers

Steve
 
i have just been through this and i went down the rs4 route and i must say i would recomend doing this. corners flat and level now. i changed the drop links as well but they would have been worn also.
 
Swarcup...

Don't suppose you have a list of parts you needed to order, along with part numbers and prices...

How easy a job was it?

Steve
 
Steve,

I've got all the part numbers here, should come in around 60-70 quid depending on how friendly your local part guy is.

Gimme a text tomorrow and I'll forward the numbers on ;)
 
Think i may look into this at some point. Audi told me i needed a new one as its got some surface rust near the mounts (good excuse to change i think). They also told me my car wasn't a quattro and that the gearbox oil is unchangeable because its a sealed unit and the computer said so. Sure hope i dont get a leak I dont know what ill do:think::think::think:
 
The gearboxes are 'sealed for life' only in that Audi say they don't need an oil change for the life of the car.

They do have fill and drain plugs though, so it's possible to change. You will need to remove a guard to get access to the fill plug, and you'll need a special splined security bit to remove the drain plug (I got mine from eBay for less than a tenner though!).

The oil isn't cheap either!

On the subject of the ARB, I changed mine to the RS4 one as soon as I got the car a year ago, even for the short time I'd driven the car standard, the RS4 bar felt like a huge improvement.

I haven't noticed any tail happiness, just a flatter cornering more agile car.

Easy to change, I just reversed mine up a pair of ramps. Biggest job was getting the new rubbers inside the collars and being able to bolt it up. On mine, one of my bolts sheared when I was removing it, so I had to drill it out...
 
Last edited:
well yes it certainly is no issues there since i changed the clutch its def a 4wd. Yea I get that its meant to last the life of the car. but i wanted them to change it anyway as well as the rear diff oil. But they said they they cant do it. not that it doesn't need doing. As in if if leaked I couldn't top it up.

I guess thats the issue with not being able to speak to one of the mechanics and dealing with the young lady with the short skirt on instead.
 
If you've changed your own clutch, then surely you can change your own oil?

If they can't fill it, how do they fill it in the factory?
 
I know was just seeing if they could do as part of the service and what kind of prices they would charge. but just thought that was funny.

Yea Im able just wanted to know a price then i could way up Price vs hassle for me to do if you get me. being lazy.

Factory must be special!!!!
 
Yeah, you're right though, the things main dealers say sometimes does have me scratching my head. Doesn't exactly fill me with confidence! :)
 
I know I also asked what a major service included for £260 odd quid (more for the stamp in the book than anything else). oil and filter, air filter and plugs and...........................thats it for £260. I said thats a major service right not an interval service. She said yes do you want to book it in? I said I'll let you know.
Do they even open the bonnet for an interval service?????????
 
Sorry jbcalvin kinda hijacked your thread. but do want an rs4 arb, thanks quattrojames for the part numbers
 
How easy is the ARB to fit? Ive got one ready to rock but havent had chance to fit it yet.
 
RS4 ARB all the way, i did mine as soon as i got the car. My mate has a TDI avant and he did it also, very happy with the results
 
quattrojames,

cheers as usual for the part numbers...

Carl,

text sent for the drop link numbers....
 
RS4 RARB highly recommended. It makes the back a little bit more "awkward feeling" over REALLY uneven surfaces, but significantly improved handling if you like cornering hard.

Not exactly "tail happy", but it's in that direction: there's a lot less understeer and the car breaks traction in a much more neutral manner, so if you're on water / snow, and get back on the power, the rear will start to come out a bit more than it did before.

Should say "quattro" on your V5C and the same if you put the car's reg into an insurance site like elephant.co.uk. I doubt it's something that Audi would get wrong though! Where did u buy the car? Quattro's attract a bit of a price premium, so you need to chase that up!

Failling all else and you're doing this entirely at your own risk!!! Find a big gravel car park somewhere, stop at the entrance with your fronts on the gravel, rears on tarmac and NOTHING in front of you or behind you!! Give the TC a stab (i.e. OFF), and pull away fairly quickly; as if you were on a short on-ramp for a 50mph A-road, but remember - you're only aiming for about 20mph. A quattro should pull off the mark fairly cleanly, minimal wheel spin or fuss... but a FWD will spin up the fronts badly. Not something I'd recommend doing too often as you'll eventually fry the clutch if it's a quattro, but as a one-off test it'll do.

I mean there's a LOT of other ways to test this that are less likely to chip paintwork or cause an accident, but I did say "failing all else" but it would be fun :)

I'm sure you could think of an equivalent test that would be safer / less likely to cause damage though (AWD dyno rollers for example).... hint hint!
 
lostbok said:
Failling all else and you're doing this entirely at your own risk!!! Find a big gravel car park somewhere, stop at the entrance with your fronts on the gravel, rears on tarmac and NOTHING in front of you or behind you!! Give the TC a stab (i.e. OFF), and pull away fairly quickly; as if you were on a short on-ramp for a 50mph A-road, but remember - you're only aiming for about 20mph. A quattro should pull off the mark fairly cleanly, minimal wheel spin or fuss... but a FWD will spin up the fronts badly. Not something I'd recommend doing too often as you'll eventually fry the clutch if it's a quattro, but as a one-off test it'll do.

I mean there's a LOT of other ways to test this that are less likely to chip paintwork or cause an accident, but I did say "failing all else" but it would be fun :)

I'm sure you could think of an equivalent test that would be safer / less likely to cause damage though (AWD dyno rollers for example).... hint hint!
Click to expand...

OR - Look and see if there's any rear driveshafts!
 
I know its certainly a quattro, changed the clutch myself. just audi im bristol dont seem to think so. honestly its on the v5. even the insurance company knew it was a quattro. just though I'd moan abit as couldn't believe they didn't know.
Oh and its hasn't been fitted after as its marked in the manual as quattro.
 
everything picked up from my dealer this afternoon, RARB, bushes, clips, drop links, along with a washer level sensor, wiring harness plug and wires...

£149....

If it's dry Sunday, I'll fit it then...
 
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Fine, next time I'll let you all shatter your clutches and walk away with a Section 59 notice!
 
Ok guys,

Just finished this job, I decided to take it slow and easy and you are looking at 3 hours tops. Jacked the back end of the car up, lots of wd40 on all the bolts, then left 20mins for it to work it's magic...most of them came out really easy though, only thing you will need are 16mm and 18mm open ended spanners for the top bolt for the drop link, quite strange sizes, most stuff is normally 15/17mm....

I have a quattro and found it a lot easier by taking the rear exhaust mounts off, allowing you to move the exhausts down slightly for better access, along with one wheel, otherwise it is nigh on impossible to get the new RARB in, when I took the old one off the collars were non existent which probably explains some of the noise from the back end!

Cleaned up all the bolts and then regreased them before refitting everything, few pointers from here on....

Put the top RARB mounting bracket bolt in first, just enough to grip, then do the same to bottom, repeat other side.

Drop links, I bought new ones and thought they were wrong as it looks as though the RARB is too short to reach, but they will adjust as you tighten them up, put the top bolt in first, again only one or 2 turns, just enough to grip, then do the same with the bottom drop link bolts, if not, again it will be nigh on impossible to get everything lined up..

Tighten top drop link bolt, then bottom ones, repeat other side.

I then dropped the car off the axle stands and jumped up and down on the back a few times to get the mounting brackets/bushes to settle slightly before tightening up the mounting bracket bolts...

Bobs your uncle..

Just been for a quick test drive and it has made a HUGE difference to how the car handles and corners, if you haven't done this yet, I highly recommend it.

Enjoy
 
nice work.... agreed - I saw* mine being done....the only difficult bit was when they had to move the exhaust out the way, not sure if it being the V6 TDI + quattro made that especially difficult, but it was the only bit of the whole process that made it a two-man job.... lots of pushing to get it out the way and that was with the car VERY secure on a proper garage lift mechanism.... apparently it's a doddle on a 2.0, but mine was a nuisance.... or maybe he was just trying to justify his time :)

I tend to get the professionals to do these things as jacking cars up on a gravel drive is a little too much "fun" for my liking!, but then ask if I can watch / assist)
 
as per pm reply mate.

Yes, rs4 arb fits all b6 & b7 saloons/avants & cabs, 2 & 4wd
 
Right list of part numbers and costs

RARB - 8E0 511 409 AL - £58.80
Bushes - 8E0 511 327 A - £2.78 each
Brackets - 8E0 511 439 - £2.85 each
Drop links - 8E0 505 465 AF - £25.95 each

Lostbok, can't understand how it was a 2 man job as I have a quattro as well, undid both the exhaust mounts at the rear of the car and it just needed pulling down very slightly to get the RARB in, did your guys take 1 wheel off to slide the bar in? I did mine lying on my back in the driveway, no assistance whatsoever....
 
ah... thug mechanic: pretty sure he went for the "most of the exhaust off" rather than the back wheel off... trying to remember, but pretty sure that didn't come off!
 
3 hours to fit a rear ARB? Wow.

Very much doubt it would take that long on a 1.9 fwd.
 
Like I said Phil, I deliberately took my time, stopped for a cup of tea/bit of lunch, spent time cleaning all the bolts,regreasing everything....

Knowing how to do it now, I reckon 1hr to 90 mins tops... only thing you wouldn't have to do an a FWD would be drop the rear exhaust mounts, 5 mins saved....
 
what difference does this make to the handling?
 
The car generally corners flatter, so doesn't roll around as much, rear end feels more planted.....
 
This thread pushed me over the jealously limit so thanks to Sam my rs4 rarb is on the way. Things is, I'm wondering now if I need new rear drop links at the same time. Are these likely to be in bad shape? And if so does anyone have part numbers? I have a full high density front control arm kit and tie rod ends going on but will leave that to a professional. I fancy doing the rarb myself but I don't know if I'll be able to get under the back end if everything has to be tightened while the car is on the wheels. same story at the front end really.
cheers
nj
 
fourcircle said:
This thread pushed me over the jealously limit so thanks to Sam my rs4 rarb is on the way. Things is, I'm wondering now if I need new rear drop links at the same time. Are these likely to be in bad shape? And if so does anyone have part numbers? I have a full high density front control arm kit and tie rod ends going on but will leave that to a professional. I fancy doing the rarb myself but I don't know if I'll be able to get under the back end if everything has to be tightened while the car is on the wheels. same story at the front end really.
cheers
nj
Click to expand...

You will need drop links. Scroll back up to post 28 for part numbers and prices
 
has everyone changed the rear sway bar/drop links at the same time? I feel a bit daft that I didn't order them at the same time but don't remember seeing mention of them in other posts. ah nuts
 
fourcircle...

I would recommend replacing the drop links, otherwise you at taking a brand new rarb and attaching it with worn parts with X,000 miles wear on them....

the drop links cost as much as the bar.....

As for fitting, what I did was get a trolley jack under the front jack point, axle stand under the rear jack points, tighten everything except the 2 rarb mounting brackets, take it off the stands, jump up and down on the back end a few times, then jack back up and tighten the mounting bracket bolts, it really doesn't take that long.....

Steve
 
Tooks said:
The gearboxes are 'sealed for life' only in that Audi say they don't need an oil change for the life of the car.

...
Click to expand...

They say that but its bulls***t. Had mine replaced 2 weeks ago and there was 10% moisture in the fluid which was black black black.
 
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