DIS retro fitted but button blanks the display

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So I finally got round to fitting my cruise control and DIS stalks today. I was a bit apprehensive about the vagcomming but it seemed to go OK. CC works well but when I press the reset button on the DIS stalk the centre display just goes blank. If I press it again it reappears. the end up-down buttons do nothing. I didn't ground a pin because I couldn't see details of what exactly to ground (does anyone have a link to a thread that shows this clearly?)
I also have an airbag warning on the display so I'm trying to figure out wtf i've done to cause that.
the only thing I can think of is when I recoded the steering wheel module (scsm) the original value corresponded to a basic steering wheel, rather than 3 spoke, so when I entered the new code I chose the corresponding one for 3 spoke steering wheel. I'll need to redo that tomorrow. Does anyone know if i'll then have to redo the other parts of the vagcom prodedure?
my scsm turned out to be 8E0 953 549 Q by the way so should be good for cc, DIS and heated steering wheel.

Life would be too simple if these things worked out perfectly first time :)
cheers
nj
 
On mine, pressing the reset button briefly cycles between the Memory 1, Memory 2 and Blank display, so that sounds right? You have to press and hold the reset button to clear the memory. Did you set up the DIS to have 1 and 2 memories, or just 1?

Re the airbag light, mine did this after removing the SCSM module to fit the stalk. I checked the connections and squirted a bit of WD40 on the contacts and the light went out.
 
thamks for your reply mate
Re the reset bitton.. on mine pressing the reset button briefly effectively turns off the display completely and the other buttons do nothing.

I used this guide but it doesn't mention anything about an extra wire needing to be grounded. ******.
Did you set up the DIS to have 1 and 2 memories, or just 1?
How do I do that?

I'll check the contacts and give them a rub and squirt with electrical contact cleaner.
 
You set up the 2 memories for the DIS with vagcom.

Pressing the reset button breifly should cycle between your memories and turning the display off completely, so it does sound as if it is working properly with 1 memory. Although the up and down cycle buttons should work, so something is wrong.

Sorry but I cant help any further than that though.
 
Ok, I've just been quizzing my limited brain cells with regard to what problems I had doing mine!

The grounding of a pin on the connectors to the back of the instrument cluster is only to stop the washer bottle low fluid warning. If you already have the sensor in the washer bottle, you won't need to do this. That's the only grounding required for the installation though.

The thing that was causing my airbag light fault wasn't the SCSM, but the slip ring that the airbag plugs into, and the thing that knows what angle your steering wheel is at? I cleaned the contacts on that which sorted it.

I seem to remember similar issues trying to get my DIS to work, I thought I was coding it incorrectly. I just had the range display with a 1 in the corner of the display, and the rocker did nothing and I couldn't select any other function.

The 1 or 2 DIS thing I mention is the option during coding where you can code for short term memory only or both long and short term? It's a while since I coded mine though.

The problem for me was that although in theory my SCSM was good for DIS, it just wouldn't work. I picked up a used SCSM from a later S4 model, fitted that, recoded everything as per the guide on here and it worked straight off.

Your module should in theory be ok for it though, maybe mine was just faulty.
 
thanks lads. I think I need to find specific info on the memory coding options as it wasn't detailed in that document. That Q module I got (from ebay) should work for DIS and the fact that the reset button turns off the display at least gives me confidence that it's partially working. hmm.
 
or the stalk could be broke
 
actually that's the obvious issue that I hadn't been even considering. ah balls. (but thanks for pointing it out)
 
Mine is exactly the same.Fitted it spot on then all it will do is turn the screen on and off.

Pretty sure its not been set right in vag-com but i dont have vag-com, anybody near Burnley with vag-com that feels like having a go???
 
aha! the plot thickens!

what scsm (part no) did you use?

I've no idea what your on about fella, i just bought a DIS arm off ebay ( brand new ) after the said arm had been recommended on here by various folk. Followed all the right steps off the forum, then when we vag-com'd it all went well but it wouldn't work right.Thats why i believe its a vag-com fault but since i dont have axcess to one i've just had to leave it not working ( very furstrating i'll tell ya ).
 
the scsm is the steering wheel control somethingorother module.. erm.. thing. There are several different options, some of which work with cruise control and/or DIS. So it's possible to fit a DIS stalk to a control module that's not equipped for it. Mine has a part no ending in "Q", which means it should do everything. Obviously that doesn't make up for being an idiot though :)

and back to the forum trawling to find an answer....
 
In theory, the SCSM that was originally fitted to my car was good for DIS, but it just wouldn't work properly. I must have taken it apart 4 or 5 times, triple checked connections etc etc, re-coded using all he possible options in VCDS, but still nothing.

I went into a sulk and about the whole thing for a few weeks until I chanced across a used SCSM on eBay, where upon fitting it, everything worked like a charm.

You say the Q module is one you've purchased from eBay? How sure are you about it, why was it for sale? The eBay seller I got my module from said he was selling because his car had DIS, but he wanted cruise as well, so he was having to upgrade his module so I felt reasonably confident he wasn't selling it because it wasn't working...
 
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Ahhhhh mayb thats why mine doesn't work them. Mayb i've got the wrong arm, i thought it was just an easy DIY install and some fancy coding.

I should have realized that where Audis are concerned nothing is made easy to do as Z germans are just out to make things hard for Z none germans!!!

Looks like im resigned to not ever getting mine working then as i've not got the time or clevernessssss to start taking apart a time or to and trying to find the correct number for my car....My head hurts does anybody know how to re-code mine so it works????
 
Right, I have an update that might help others solve their problems.

First up is the DIS issue. What's not mentioned in the guide that I used (it's brilliant but may need this added) is that you need to code your instrument cluster for DIS.
Go into 17 - Instrument Cluster, then "Adaptation - 10", which brings you to this
vcds_ss_1.jpg


Under Channel change 00 to 19 and hit enter. You'll now see the existing code associated with your car.

?xxxx: Illumination (MY 2002 and above)
0 = Needle and Scale only active at "Light ON"
1 = Needle already active at "Ignition ON"
2 = Scale already active at "Ignition ON"
3 = Scale (2nd Map) and Needle at "Ignition ON" active

x?xxx - Board Computer
0 - only Level 2 (Long Time Memory)
1 - Level 1 and 2

xx?xx - Driver Information System (DIS)
0 - DIS 1
1 - Highline without DIS
2 - DIS 2

xxx?x
0 - not active
1 - active

xxxx? - Remote Clock
0 - not active
1 - clock active

So if your coding is currently 30100 change it to 3100. Mine was 10100 and I changed it to 11000.
I think you hit test and then save, then OK the "ooh, are you sure?" message.

(I found this out from Shark_90, master of B6s and denizen of a couple of other forums I use. I'm not sure if he's active on ASN though. He's based in Mansfield, East Midlands and is the guy to see if you want to pay for CC/DIS retro fits, remaps and all kinds of technical wizardry Shark Performance - Volkswagen Audi Seat Skoda Mercedes BMW Porsche Tuning )
 
The first thing that told me my DIS was working was the washer fluid warning on the instrument cluster. And since I haven't found proper instructions on how to run a wire from Pin 1 on the instrument cluster I decided to write some.

(and excuse the iffy phone photos)
This is best done when you have the steering wheel off. I can say with some authority it just gets in the way when you do it later.

Remove the centre trim under the instrument cluster by pulling straight out. Then remove the two T25 torx head screws hiding deep in that recess.
18052011707.jpg


if you need the clearance (like if your steering wheel is back on again) remove the two 8mm allen head bolts to let you take the top cowling off (it has a cloth bit attached to a plastic piece that's fastened at both sides)
18052011706.jpg


There's a blue plug behind the left side of the instrument cluster and a green plug behind the right side (as you look at the cluster, sitting in the driver's seat). If you have the lower trim under the steering column undone you can undo these plugs without even taking the instrument cluster out. You may even be able to do the wiring with just the blue plug hanging down.
Here's the green plug pictured side on. To release it you hook a nail or screwdriver behind the pink lever/arm thing and lift up. as it lifts up the plug is pushed out of its socket. same for the blue one on the other side.
18052011704.jpg


Here's the blue plug. If you look really closely pin 1 is actually marked. it's the one i'm pointing at with the screwdriver in this picture
18052011698.jpg


To disassemble you slide the pink end bit off and cut the little cable tie.
18052011697.jpg


The white internal part of the plug will now slide out of the blue casing. pin 1 is the empty space on the far right here
18052011699.jpg


Strip 10mm from the end of your wire. I had to cut 2 strands of wire to let me twist the remaining strands together into a good size to fit into the space here. There's already a pin and metal strip. Ideally I wanted to solder my new wire in here but I would have had to take the pin out of the plug and I wasn't sure with solder on it I'd be able to fit it back in again. so I pressed it in with a thumb nail and a small flat head screwdriver.
18052011700.jpg


Now route your new wire alongside the others and GENTLY slide the blue casing back over and then slide the pink end cap on again.

I connected the other end of my cable to the earth point directly behind the instrument cluster and left plenty of extra cable coiled so I can run it through the bulkhead and connect it to a washer fluid level sensor at a later date.
18052011701.jpg


Refit everything again in reverse, being careful with the plugs. I had to use a tiny bit of blutack on the end of my t25 driver to stop losing the two T25 screws before I could get the right places.
 
For anyone doing wiring work where you need to add pins to multiplugs, the dealers sell wiring repair kits, just let them know which multiplug you need a pin for and they will give you a wire with a correct sized pin at either end.........
 
Followed this guide to retrofitting did, wouldn't of been able to do it without this.
thank you for doing the guide
 

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