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Thread: How2: 2.5 TDI Injector replacement.

  1. #1
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    How2: 2.5 TDI Injector replacement.

    Good Afternoon Ladies and Gents.
    I replaced my injector this morning on the old girl, when I was looking for information on the internet on how to do this. I found very little, sadly.

    So I thought I'd make a very brief and basic how2. Some photos are from putting it back together, as my memory to do things is crap!

    Firstly, pop the bonnet and remove the Engine cover.
    I took off the maf and airbox for room.

    You can then see the rocker covers with the 3 pipes going into the injectors.

    In this picture you can see I've removed the pipes and the bleed off pipes.

    You'll need a 10mm socket to remove the bleed off pipes from the injector heads. These are sealed by copper washers. I thought best to replace the washers when putting back together.

    Undo the pipes going into the injector, these require a 17mm spanner to undo, they're a tiny bit tight. But do come undone.

    Looking round the rocker cover, you can imediatly see 8 nuts holding it on. There is actually a 9th nut to the rear of the rocker cover. Unod these nuts and the rocker rover will be come slightly loose.
    On the lower part of the cover, you can see the nuts also hold the metal pipe for the induction system. You can pull this out of the way quite easily.

    You need to unclip all the wiring clamps from the rocker cover, these easily pop off without issue.

    I found the when removing the rocker cover, it slightly fouled on the cambelt cover. with abit of wiggling it comes away from the head.

    Once the cover is off you can see this.


    You can see a clamp that sits over the injector holding it into place. I evenly undid the 2 nuts holding the clamp down. Once the nuts are off, you can feed the wiring through the clamp. You can then gently work out the injector from the head.
    Once the injector is away and free from the head. You will see a copper washer on the end of the injector, these needs transfering to the new injector (or preferably a new copper washer, if I'd known it'd have bought one) also there is a shoulder that needs transfering from the old to the new one. It rests on the circlip about a third of the way down.
    You can then put the injector carefully into the hole. You'll find there is a recess in the head for the stud sticking out the side of the injector. (I put a tiny bit of fresh oil on the seal to help it slip into place)

    Feed the wiring through the clamp as before and gently push down on the injector till the seal 'clicks' into place. Gently and evenly tighten the nuts down till the injector is fully located.

    Feed the wiring back the original route to the outside of the head.

    Carefully fit the rocker cover back on and the rest is reverse of removal.

    Things to note, this is an ideal time to think about replacing the bleed off pipes. I did mine whilst I was there. I also fitted new copper washers to the bleed of bits.



    I hope this helps anyone out.
    Allroad2.5_V6 likes this.
    Atlas Grey A4 2.5 TDI Quattro Sport.
    Mods so far: Cruise control, DIS, Heated Mirrors, Tuning box, Xenonx, Centre Arm Rest, MFSW, RNS-E, SDS and Aero Wipers.
    To do: None yet.
    Next: Auto dip rearview mirror and Folding Mirrors.

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  3. #2
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    Nice one mate!

    I'll add this to the DIY guides sticky, thank you.
    Ingolstance Read about my A6 HERE.

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    Bro.Paul 2.5TDI Quattro Sport

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    most interesting read there mate, i dont feel so scared about doing one when it comes my way, which i feel it may do soon with the injector with the wire come off it!

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    nice1 well done there
    2.5tdi Avant Q S 180 - 19" RS6 reps - chrome mirrors - ambient light package - cruise and dis retrofit - chrome side repeaters - front sline lowr conversion with cupra r splitter - rear lower valance with twin cut outs and exhaust tips - rs4 rear antiroll bar - puddle and footwell lights - sline door blades - fully colour coded - b8 autodimming mirror on custom window adapter - geuine aero wiper upgrade - genuine heated mirror upgrade

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    No worries gents! Good luck.
    Atlas Grey A4 2.5 TDI Quattro Sport.
    Mods so far: Cruise control, DIS, Heated Mirrors, Tuning box, Xenonx, Centre Arm Rest, MFSW, RNS-E, SDS and Aero Wipers.
    To do: None yet.
    Next: Auto dip rearview mirror and Folding Mirrors.

  7. #6
    AlexGSi2000's Avatar
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    Thanks for the guide - I will be replacing the 3rd injector soon so I will be using this!

  8. #7
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    Bro.Paul 2.5TDI Quattro Sport

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    has just re read this as its now on the cards, this weekend, weather permitting !

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    good guide. theres been a thread on here recently with guide description and link to another guide.....
    A4 2.5TDi - No boost.

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    Bro.Paul 2.5TDI Quattro Sport

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    Iv done this job today. Put it all back together and I'm now leaking diesel badly somewhere, the injector I got may also have been stores wrong so the injector nipple may be faulty, I'm going to strip it all out again tomorrow to find out what went wrong. Everything came out ok and went back in as in reverse with great care. Iv been advised to swap the nipple heads over to see if that clears the issue. More news tomorrow when I'm done.

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    Let us know how you get on and if it makes any improvement! - Mine shows the fault as intermittent and doesnt seem to be having any negative effects (power seems to be all there and im sat at 39mpg)

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    Bro.Paul 2.5TDI Quattro Sport

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    as far as i can see, the car will run fine with the fault, but if the other sensor goes then your in trouble, one sensor backs the other one up, with this sensor gone you will most prob lose about 4mpg in fuel costs, so with teh price of fuel right now, its time to deal with this issue as i seem to be constantly filling the car up as this car is my everyday runner,

  13. #12
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    Bro.Paul 2.5TDI Quattro Sport

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    also question, im sure i know the responce, but, if you put all the inector pipes back on without putting the rocker cover on, will you get squirted with oil? im sure you may but it may help me see what is going on tomorrow if the problem does not bugger off, just its hard to see whats going wrong under a rocker cover.

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    how do you know its leaking diesel under the rocker cover??????????
    it will run in limp mode if you have the needle motion sensor fault. ie if its open circ thru the two wires, you should have near 100ohms iirc.

    is it missing or what? have you changed the copper washer making sure the seat is clean and free of debris/carbon etc

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    the car wont go into limp mode when the sensor goes wrong, iv been driving the car with a faulty sensor for over 6 months now, it may go into limp mode if the needle sensor has gone and the other crank sensor go at a later date, one backs the other up as they say,

    Iv now fixed the car and you can all expect a in detail ride of my experiance of fighting with a number of injector parts and a bit of blue peter tyle mix and matching of the bits to get it sorted and how the differant part numbers do differant things,

    Big thanks to Chris Adams who iv manage to hassle over the phone a number of times, he has the paitence of a saint, but im sure i almost tested his sanity, i do feel i would have banged my head against a wall if it was not for his help,

    More of a write up later after iv been to parants evernin and been conned into food shopping !

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    Full write up would be great!

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    ive changed 2 of these, both times the motion sensor was open circuit. both times the the car was very down on power suggesting a limp mode.

    was your power as normal?

  18. #17
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    Bro.Paul 2.5TDI Quattro Sport

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    Quote Originally Posted by murran View Post
    ive changed 2 of these, both times the motion sensor was open circuit. both times the the car was very down on power suggesting a limp mode.

    was your power as normal?
    Power was as per normal, just the fuel consumption was higher than normal, fault code was showing that the 00542 = G80 needle lift sensor failed,

  19. #18
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    Red face

    Ok folks, here is what iv learnt and wish to share, my adds to this great write up are not in anyway against what has already been stated, my comments are just my add on's to what i learnt and feel may help others who are looking to do this fix.

    for taking off the rocker cover i found that undoing the big air out pipe by the rear of the turbo helped let the pipe be moved more out the way so as to be able to get the 2 rocker cover bolts off,



    I also found that buy loosening injector feed pipe No1 and lifting it upwards then tightening it back up a bit at the injector pump helped keep it out the way and giving more room for letting the rocker cover outwards exposing the cams and giving access to the injectors,


    When wishing to pull the faulty injector out, Chris Adams advised me to screw the injector pipe back onto the injector to give me more leverage on pulling it out as they can be stuck in there holes rather well, especially if they have been in there for a number of years,


    whilst pulling the injector its advised to place a 15mm spanner at the neck of the injector and wiggle it a very small amount to help free it up,


    I also learnt that it is best to get the exact part number for the replacement injector, but from my slight error of getting a part number ending in "E" not "F" that i needed resulted in me getting an injector with a lower flow level which starved the engine of a amount of fuel, the car ran but was running like it was miss firing, and the injection pump was wanting to push in more than it could handle witch resulted in diesel being forced out the injector head rather than at the nipple,

    To fix this i had to unscrew the nipple end of my old injector and swapped it with the nipple end of the replacement injector as my old injector nipple was of a much higher flow rated end, assembled the injector head back together and hopped for the best or it was going to cost me £360 for a new injector from Audi,

    After rebuilding the cars head with injector and re assembling the rocker cover and injector pipes and fuel feedback pipes and putting everything back in place, i bleeded off any air in the pipes and wiped up any mess made by excess fuel sprayed out,

    I crossed my fingers and looked at my wallet on the passenger seat hopping not to have to part with £360 for a new injector, i closed my eyes and asked the big man in the sky to "let it all be ok" and turned the key, after a couple of turns of the starter motor and the fuel got to where it was meant to be she fired up like a champion ! roared into life like an angry giant that had been sleeping a hospital bed and just shouted im now ready for action, The test drive went very well, i took it easy as i left the neighbour hood and got onto the 2 mile duel carageway and "Fired up the Quattro" in all its V6 glory and rocketed down the lane until i had to hit the brake peddle for the roundabout, I'm now looking at enjoying a slightly better fuel consumption and a smoother fuel delivery set up. Now onto the next job for the car, find that knock!
    Last edited by Turkster; 21st March 2012 at 10:18.

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    Glad you got it sorted bud and thank you for the extra photos and advice.
    Atlas Grey A4 2.5 TDI Quattro Sport.
    Mods so far: Cruise control, DIS, Heated Mirrors, Tuning box, Xenonx, Centre Arm Rest, MFSW, RNS-E, SDS and Aero Wipers.
    To do: None yet.
    Next: Auto dip rearview mirror and Folding Mirrors.

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    good write up there!
    just for curiositys sake, could you check your old injector with a multimeter on the two pin plug that cliped to the baulkhead? what resistance have you got. it should be around 100ohms.
    if yours isnt open circuit but faulty in a different way it might explain why it wasnt in limp mode.

  22. #21
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    Bro.Paul 2.5TDI Quattro Sport

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    Quote Originally Posted by murran View Post
    good write up there!
    just for curiositys sake, could you check your old injector with a multimeter on the two pin plug that cliped to the baulkhead? what resistance have you got. it should be around 100ohms.
    if yours isnt open circuit but faulty in a different way it might explain why it wasnt in limp mode.
    i will as soon as i get my multimeter back from my brother, what setting do you advise ?

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    Quote Originally Posted by BlackQuat View Post
    Glad you got it sorted bud and thank you for the extra photos and advice.
    Yer me too, no worries, im just glad its all over,

    we all do things in different ways and if we all add a bit here and there then we should nail the procedures even more for the newbies,

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    just normal ohms (resistance) setting.

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    Glad you got it sorted mate, i reckon your "replacement" injector nozzle was seized hence the fuel popping from the union. The hard pipe line will break due to the hammering pulses from the injector pump especially as the fuel cannot go back to the pump. You didn't test my patience but i was in the middle of a oil change and doing cv joints and- last time i've checked- the touch screens on smart phones don't really work well with oily fingers ! Report how the fuel economy is doing in the future...
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  26. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by adamss24 View Post
    Glad you got it sorted mate, i reckon your "replacement" injector nozzle was seized hence the fuel popping from the union. The hard pipe line will break due to the hammering pulses from the injector pump especially as the fuel cannot go back to the pump. You didn't test my patience but i was in the middle of a oil change and doing cv joints and- last time i've checked- the touch screens on smart phones don't really work well with oily fingers ! Report how the fuel economy is doing in the future...
    the fuel economy seems to have got better now, iv only been doing a few trips, the car does seem to be a lot smoother in its rev ranges, more of a powerful whoosh rather than a slow burst and a heavy kick at the end, the fuel gauge has not dropped as fast as it normally does, i will be doing a full MPG inspection this week coming when i fill the tank up,

    From looking at the numbers on the nipples the old one that was mine was of a much higher number set as stated on the side of it, so the replacement injector nipple had a lower set of numbers showing it to let less fuel through, Audi stated it was to do with the emissions regulations, when you looked into the nipple heads you could see a trace of light through the tiny holes in my old nipple and not so much in the newer one, that kinda sealed the "Ah-ha" moment of clarety that sold me that what i was about to do had to work,

    Yer i know what you mean when you talk about touch screens, i found having a blue tooth ear piece on and the phone on auto arwnser helps a lot to free up the hands and having to dig about for the phone in a pocket or hunt for it in the car, saying all that i also find switching the phone off to be left alone works just as well,

    So again Chris im sending you a big thanks for your telephone support as without your advise on swapping the nipples over i may have been defeated and £360 lighter in the wife's purse,

  27. #26
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    Turkster, where did you get your replacement injector from? and what was the part number (059 130 202 F ? - is this for the 180bhp AKE?)

    cheers

    Jake
    A6 Avant 2.5tdi Quattro Sport 220bhp 458Nm 6 speed Manual

  28. #27
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    Bro.Paul 2.5TDI Quattro Sport

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    Quote Originally Posted by HerefordQuattro View Post
    Turkster, where did you get your replacement injector from? and what was the part number (059 130 202 F ? - is this for the 180bhp AKE?)

    cheers

    Jake
    Hi Jake

    Each engine is different, it will be easy to find out from the Audi Parts Dept in your local main dealer, it could be F but it may also be E or G,

    Regards

    Paul

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    059130201F and E for AKE engine

    Quote Originally Posted by Turkster View Post
    Hi Jake

    Each engine is different, it will be easy to find out from the Audi Parts Dept in your local main dealer, it could be F but it may also be E or G,

    Regards

    Paul
    Hi guys,
    can you advice me, please?
    By reading this tread I understood that injectors E and F difference is in nipples??? I have an allroad AKE with the faulty needle lift sensor (00542 fault code) and also have an A4 B6 with the same AKE engine. I want to swap the injectors. Allroad AKE is fitted with 059130201F and A4 AKE is fitted with 059130201E injector. Will I have the same spec injector after swapping them if I take the returning diesel nipples off?
    Thanks
    Vilius

  30. #29
    Az
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    I had to have injector number 3 with the needle lift sensor on it replaced a couple of years ago on mine, as it had a slightly irratic idle. When they changed it (Audi VW specialist) they had to code the injector to my car, did you not have to do that then with yours?
    B6 A4 2.5 V6 TDi Quattro Sport

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  31. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by Az View Post
    I had to have injector number 3 with the needle lift sensor on it replaced a couple of years ago on mine, as it had a slightly irratic idle. When they changed it (Audi VW specialist) they had to code the injector to my car, did you not have to do that then with yours?
    Correct me if im wrong - but the 2.5TDi injectors don't need coding - this is because they are completely mechanical.
    I think its only common rail diesel engines that need injectors coding - I had to code an injector for my Vectra 1.9cdti a few years ago.

    The needle lift injector is used to help time the fuel pump - after doing my cam-belt I tried correcting the fuel pump timing but as the 3rd injector was broken I had no readings - replaced the 3rd injector and it allowed me to adjust the timing to within spec.

 

 

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