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Thread: Crankcase Breather Valve Location

  1. #1
    CHRIS555's Avatar
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    Crankcase Breather Valve Location

    This is a guide for thise looking for the crankcase breather valve. Where I have put the arrow it is about half way down at this point. The valve is within a pipe so look carefully for a pipe with a bulge! Have a feel around! The pipe has a couple of jubilee clips and can be got to without taking anything else off if you have skinny wrists! Otherwise you may want to look at taking the coolant tank off.

    Hope this helps......








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    its further down under the inlet manifold. theres a largish plastic elbow pipe, held in the breather unit on the side of the block, by a green metal clip. then a largish rubber "t" piece. the valve is in between the t piece and the smaller rubber pipe coming up to the maze of other breather pipes.

    if your in any doubt about the valve without stripping anything off the engine, then simply clamp the rubber pipe off with some long nose pliars between the valve and the other breather pipes/inlet manifold. if the idle changes, you know its the valve. simples.

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    Thanks for the helpful pictures, I was looking in that area but didn't realize that was where it was located. Eventually took me approx. 10 minutes to do. My one was in the same condition as yours, as soon as it was fitted my engine management light went out. I let the car run for 10 minutes and it seems to have cured the problem. Would this fault have increased the fuel consumption ?
    Audi A4 1.8t sport convertible, Full Grey Leather Interior, Ambient Light Pack, Polished Forge FMCL007P Diverter valve, Green Cotton Filter, 100mm Tail pipes, Rear RS4 ARB, Interior Xenon White LED's bulbs, Xenon White LED number plate bulbs and side lights, JBS Auto Designs stage 1 remap, RNS-E and OEM Bluetooth, Remote roof module, OEM Wind Deflector, B7 rear lights, HID lights.

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    Quote Originally Posted by itsmeagain View Post
    Thanks for the helpful pictures, I was looking in that area but didn't realize that was where it was located. Eventually took me approx. 10 minutes to do. My one was in the same condition as yours, as soon as it was fitted my engine management light went out. I let the car run for 10 minutes and it seems to have cured the problem. Would this fault have increased the fuel consumption ?
    Your fuel consumption shouldn't of changed, too much air was getting in the engine so it slowed down the ignition of the fuel hence the jumping around at idle and odd misfire, the fault is only valid when your car is at idle anyway

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    CHRIS555's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by itsmeagain View Post
    Thanks for the helpful pictures, I was looking in that area but didn't realize that was where it was located. Eventually took me approx. 10 minutes to do. My one was in the same condition as yours, as soon as it was fitted my engine management light went out. I let the car run for 10 minutes and it seems to have cured the problem. Would this fault have increased the fuel consumption ?
    Hiya, I'm glad it's helped. On mine it didn't effect fueling, but mine is pretty poor anyway!!

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    Quote Originally Posted by CHRIS555 View Post
    Hiya, I'm glad it's helped. On mine it didn't effect fueling, but mine is pretty poor anyway!!
    Mine wasn't affecting the fuel consumption, I just wondered. Do you reckon i should also change the PRV just in case its knackered too.
    Audi A4 1.8t sport convertible, Full Grey Leather Interior, Ambient Light Pack, Polished Forge FMCL007P Diverter valve, Green Cotton Filter, 100mm Tail pipes, Rear RS4 ARB, Interior Xenon White LED's bulbs, Xenon White LED number plate bulbs and side lights, JBS Auto Designs stage 1 remap, RNS-E and OEM Bluetooth, Remote roof module, OEM Wind Deflector, B7 rear lights, HID lights.

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    Possibly, really easy to change, I think the part number is 06A 129 101 D

    Just for clarity it is the black disc at the top of the engine at the back of the plastic engine cover.

    Could also be worth running some redex through as well if not done recently.

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    When my car was remapped a few months ago, they said that they fitted a new PRV cause the old one was knackered. Personally I think they didn't change it, cause the OEM clips where still attached. But I never noticed until weeks after, it didnt look new. I will buy another one anyway just to make sure.
    Audi A4 1.8t sport convertible, Full Grey Leather Interior, Ambient Light Pack, Polished Forge FMCL007P Diverter valve, Green Cotton Filter, 100mm Tail pipes, Rear RS4 ARB, Interior Xenon White LED's bulbs, Xenon White LED number plate bulbs and side lights, JBS Auto Designs stage 1 remap, RNS-E and OEM Bluetooth, Remote roof module, OEM Wind Deflector, B7 rear lights, HID lights.

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    Quote Originally Posted by itsmeagain View Post
    When my car was remapped a few months ago, they said that they fitted a new PRV cause the old one was knackered. Personally I think they didn't change it, cause the OEM clips where still attached. But I never noticed until weeks after, it didnt look new. I will buy another one anyway just to make sure.
    Funny you should say that, mine went shortly after the remap - I've bought two PRV's and two Crankase valves just so i've got some ready incase it happens again!

    Are you going to the Audi Internation Driver event in October?

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    Quote Originally Posted by CHRIS555 View Post
    Funny you should say that, mine went shortly after the remap - I've bought two PRV's and two Crankase valves just so i've got some ready incase it happens again!

    Are you going to the Audi Internation Driver event in October?
    What's the date of the Audi International Driver event? I as I got the most of October off work
    Audi A4 1.8t sport convertible, Full Grey Leather Interior, Ambient Light Pack, Polished Forge FMCL007P Diverter valve, Green Cotton Filter, 100mm Tail pipes, Rear RS4 ARB, Interior Xenon White LED's bulbs, Xenon White LED number plate bulbs and side lights, JBS Auto Designs stage 1 remap, RNS-E and OEM Bluetooth, Remote roof module, OEM Wind Deflector, B7 rear lights, HID lights.

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    Quote Originally Posted by itsmeagain View Post
    What's the date of the Audi International Driver event? I as I got the most of October off work
    It's on Satruday the 9th October at Castle Combe - if you take a look at the category for shows and events there is a list growing of those attending. You would be going the same way as me, the dreaded M5!!!

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    Did mine this weekend and my car is running sweet again.





    Black Audi RS4 2006 Exclusive edition, Black optic option (stock for now)

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    Quote Originally Posted by docurley View Post
    Did mine this weekend and my car is running sweet again.





    They all seem to fail exactly the same way, cause mine looked just like yours when I changed it.
    Audi A4 1.8t sport convertible, Full Grey Leather Interior, Ambient Light Pack, Polished Forge FMCL007P Diverter valve, Green Cotton Filter, 100mm Tail pipes, Rear RS4 ARB, Interior Xenon White LED's bulbs, Xenon White LED number plate bulbs and side lights, JBS Auto Designs stage 1 remap, RNS-E and OEM Bluetooth, Remote roof module, OEM Wind Deflector, B7 rear lights, HID lights.

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    Mine too - maybe remaps lower their life expectancy? But at least once you know what it is it's an affordable easy fix! Go to Audi and they will have you replacing coil packs, MAF, etc etc etc!!

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    When I went to Audi and ordered the valve, he knew exactly what the problem was. He said its a common problem.
    Audi A4 1.8t sport convertible, Full Grey Leather Interior, Ambient Light Pack, Polished Forge FMCL007P Diverter valve, Green Cotton Filter, 100mm Tail pipes, Rear RS4 ARB, Interior Xenon White LED's bulbs, Xenon White LED number plate bulbs and side lights, JBS Auto Designs stage 1 remap, RNS-E and OEM Bluetooth, Remote roof module, OEM Wind Deflector, B7 rear lights, HID lights.

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    Quote Originally Posted by itsmeagain View Post
    When I went to Audi and ordered the valve, he knew exactly what the problem was. He said its a common problem.
    Thats what they said to me as well, I think they say that when you order a specific part, but had they used VAG-COM they would follow a diagnostic / fault find procedure and the valve is far far down the list! I think blackpool1974 who helped me solve this when i had it spent the best part of 400-500 with Audi and eventually used a Audi Master Technician - ouch!

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    I think Audi start at the most expensive parts first. Mine cost me 4 coil packs and then finally the valve. LOL
    Audi A4 1.8t sport convertible, Full Grey Leather Interior, Ambient Light Pack, Polished Forge FMCL007P Diverter valve, Green Cotton Filter, 100mm Tail pipes, Rear RS4 ARB, Interior Xenon White LED's bulbs, Xenon White LED number plate bulbs and side lights, JBS Auto Designs stage 1 remap, RNS-E and OEM Bluetooth, Remote roof module, OEM Wind Deflector, B7 rear lights, HID lights.

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    Hi guys,

    sorry to bump this, but im replacing my crankcase breather valve this weekend. Looking at docurley's pic, i can see the oil filter and the pipe that goes nowhere next to it but for the life of me i cant find the valve that im looking to replace!

    can someone literaly draw me a picture?

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    I'll have a look on Elsawin, what engine do you have?
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    1.8t, thanks.

    Got the same syptoms, suction through dip stick, high idle code and lean code hope this is the fix!

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    There's not much on Elsawin that I could find, does the Etka shot help?

    Failing that, have a read of this:

    DIY: B6 A4 1.8t ** Upper Vacuum/Breather Hose Replacement (Brittle/Crumbly)

    bowen likes this.
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    upgrade gentlemen?

    Check Valve, 1.8T & AAN PCV, Billet - 034 MOTORSPORT

    also to tie it all up niceley, if you have a BEX 190 hp engine here is the breather diagram for that one,



    Last edited by olly quattro; 28th November 2011 at 15:15.

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    Forgot to update but thanks I have fixed this. The etka was really helpful thanks!

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    Hi, sorry to bump this old post, but im told my problem with oil leaking around the EGR area and down the engine might be the crank case breather
    Anyone got some pics of location and how to change on 1.9tdi ?
    A4 1.9TDI Sport - 130 (B6) / Mods: None yet, just getting the basic right first

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    I was trying to knock this out and ran into a problem or i am just not getting this. I purchased the 034 bleeder valve, but where #6 in the diagram, i have a breather/PVC valve. It has the stem that runs off of the valve with a hose connected to it. Am i just reading this thread wrong?

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    Audi B6 A4 Quattro 1.8T > Search > Breather Valve > ES#2214900 ECS/OEM Crankcase Breather Hose Kit - 06A198298

    This set from ECS shows both valves. I put everything back together on my engine for now. Could someone please let me know? Thank you.

  29. #28
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    Anyone have pics of location on 1.9TDI?
    A4 1.9TDI Sport - 130 (B6) / Mods: None yet, just getting the basic right first

  30. #29
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    how much is this part from TPS?
    2003 Audi A4 TDi 130 Quattro Sport Avant Black
    2005 Honda S2000 GT

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    less that £10 if i remeber correctly

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    just ordered it for a separate crankcase pressure issue i am having on my 1.8T 190

    i also have a 1.9TDi 130 that judders slightly at idle - could this valve also be the cause in a diesel?
    2003 Audi A4 TDi 130 Quattro Sport Avant Black
    2005 Honda S2000 GT

  33. #32
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    I changed mine on my car last night, massive difference, all idle issues have now disappeared

    Well worth doing if you havent yet, was only £9 something from Audi Dealership and only took 10mins tops

    Mine was completely collapsed in too
    Audi A4 1.8T S-Line Quattro (190) '04

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  34. #33
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    I still cant find it on the 1.9TDI
    A4 1.9TDI Sport - 130 (B6) / Mods: None yet, just getting the basic right first

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    is that the breather just above the oil filter and between tho two clips ? thanks

  36. #35
    jp1
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    One question guys. How difficult is it to replace the crankcase ventilation valve?? I have the 1.8T 190

    I have read all the threads about it, but what I am concerned about is working space.

    I replaced the crankshaft sensor from the top a year ago or so, by removing the expansion tank, This was not that easy as trying to find the sensor was pretty hard from the top!!

    Is this an easier job?

    Cheers


    BTW, I have had the problem for over 4k miles, but was living with it. Took it to the garage to fix it today as it had stalled and was then difficult to start a few times over the last week. Garage ended up just changing crankcase sensor as apparently after I dropped it off, the car then wouldn't start. So £150 later I still have the same problem.

    Now that I have found out the exact cause (I can hear hissing around the PRV, pipework etc and the oil filler cap is being held closed with a lot of suction, exactly as others have described). Thought I would do it myself rather than paying out another £150

  37. #36
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    Its pretty easy to do m8 tbh

    Some say moving the coolant bottle makes it easier but I did mine in 10mins without moving it.

    Just make sure you have some new jubilee clips and give it a go.
    2004 BEX 1.8T Silver Avant - RTECH Stage 1 Remap - 211Bhp/236ft Torque
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  38. #37
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    ^^ This

    I moved my coolant bottle out of the way though because its only one screw and I couldnt get my hands in there without doing it
    Audi A4 1.8T S-Line Quattro (190) '04

    VCDS HEX-USB+CAN


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    Do you know what some things really don't change 20 years ago i was cleaning out crap from the breathing system of 5 cylinder audi engines, all blocked up and nasty and pulling a little domed piece of metal housing off the block and un blocking the hole with a wire coat hanger. Fast forward to present day, had cause to replace G62 sender on a 1.8 t, total twat of a job ended up removing breather pipe that runs alongside the top of the engine hmm lookey here it's all full of the same old crud and the valve as well, all cleaned out quite surprised as to the difference in how it drives now

 

 

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