Help Please! Brake Balance favouring the rear and lots of brake dust on rear alloys!

Jon_w

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I recently changed the brakes all round, both pads and rotors. Now it has greenstuff pads and EBC Blackdash rotors.

I have followed the break-in procedure, and have been driving carefully on them without excessive braking, until all the black coating had worn off. This took a lot longer on the front than the back. Now that they are finally worn in (not fully, but better and all coating has gone) I did the recommended hard breaking with cool down period, which seemed to help a little, but the brakes still aren't right.

The old pads were completely shot front and back, with the rears having a 1 cm wide rust/dust ring and the front had tramlined on the inside. The brakes are now better, but not what they should be.

I found that there was much more dust on the rear wheels than the front, and confirmed that the balance was favouring the rear when driving on a loose surface at the weekend.

I also have had the rear suspension changed 3 months ago, with parts from Audi, but the back is maybe a little lower than before. The car is S-line sports package (seats, suspension, steering wheel etc, but not external bodykit). Are there different levels of lowering with the S-line suspension? Could this be throwing off the tilt-sensor enough to prematurely lock up the back wheels, or could this be the result of air in the front brakes?

I had to bleed the rear brakes to screw-in the piston, but the fronts screwed-in easily with the reservoir closed and the bleed nipple closed also.

Before I take it to a garage to check the balance, is there anything I can do first to check myself? and hopefully correct myself.

Any help would be much appreciated.

By the way, is it correct that there are brake warning cables on one of the front pads, but none on the rear?
 
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Is there a brake proportioning valve on the A3?
In the past cars used to have such devices to distribute greater brake pressure to the rear when carrying extra weight, be it rear passengers or a heavy load in the boot. The valve was linked to the rear suspension such that the greater it was compressed, the more brake force was applied to the rear brakes.
If you've lowered the car at the rear then maybe that could be a factor?
 
have lowered mine and i am thinking that the back brakes are working a little harder than the should,

the car still feels very good braking into corners (wet or dry no backend wobble) but have noticed them being hotter than should be
 
Mine does it too - back wheels get dirtier than the front!
Was like it before the car was lowered tho - just notice it more now.
 
have to say my 2.0T quattro A3 is the same back wheels are much dirtier than the fronts
 
The rear suspension shouldn't be any lower than it was before, as long as the garage put the correct replacement shocks on.

I guess it's going into the garage, as it is braking much heavier on the backs than the fronts. There is no intitial bite when you press the pedal and the and the brake pedal has too much play in it.

Hope its an easy fix.
 
With EBD, the rear brakes are worked harder than the front on initial braking so as to minimized nose diving, either it is working the way it should or maybe the EBD gizmo is out of wack? Are the rear ABS kicking in too early?
 
EBD meaning the electronic brake force distribution?

If so, haven't noticed the ABS kicking in early on the back, the brakes just don't feel as powerful as they should and fell like the back is doing all the work. It feels like it almost struggles to stop the car sometimes, definately not what it should feel like after a so-called upgrade.

The car will still nose-dive a bit if I really plant the brakes, and I still get a "bite" if I quickly tap the pedal instead of slowly depressing it, but if I progressively brake I have to push the pedal down quite a distance. I just have very little confidence in the brakes at the moment.

I had a leon TDI before and have driven golf tdi's and they all have a pretty instant "bite" when you press the pedal a small distance, this seems to need more convincing before it will stop the car.

Maybe it is air in the front two lines. Ill try bleeding this weekend and see if it has any effect.
 
If bleeding, remember there is also a 8mm bleed nipple on the master cylinder. This can cause the brake pedal to sink to the floor if the level in the bottle goes too low.
 
Thanks, Still haven't got around to bleeding yet, but I think now that this must be it. The level in the master cylinder is full, but if I put my foot down, it will stop, then slowly continue until its gets to the floor. Not good!
 
The lack of brakedust on the front is becausoe fhte Greenstuff pads - it says on the box "dustless" usually!!. They are not always the best pads though and it may be that the back pads are keener than the front. I take it you have warmed the brakes up and you still get what you're describing as an "inbalance"?

In any case the difference in dust is defininetly down to the EBC pads and not braking force. I use Yellowstuff in my BMW and they are great becasue they are very very low dusts, whereas with the OEM pads just one short drive meant the wheels were black.
 
well my car has not got crap! green stuff pads on
both front and rear are the same brand
 

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