Calling all owners of ITG Maxogen S3/A3 2.0T air intakes...

Are they standard jubilee clips or slightly bigger / more heavy duty?

Ah fair point. They are jubilees albeit with much deeper, bitier teeth and a larger screw.

Another thing to bear in mind with the jubilee clips is that they should be stainless steel. Over time water/salt etc is going to get into your engine bay and you do not want the clamps to be rusting up.

Can't imagine my £2 jobbies were rust-proof.
Having said that my old Forge CAI used standard cheapo jubilee clips and that was on the car for 2 years and showed no signs of rust or loosening in the whole time I had it.

I'm not dismissing the issue at all but my experience (so far - not had it on as long as you Warren) is that the jubilee clips are fine.
 
The Forge jubilee clips on the Twintake are stainless steel and were a very nice touch I think.

Stainless.jpg
 
Yeah they're the same ones I had on my Forge KRL.
Will check the B&Q jobbies when I get home - they're probably just a pile of orange dust at the bottom of my engine bay by now !
 
The Forge jubilee clips on the Twintake are stainless steel and were a very nice touch I think.
Tidy.

There is nothing wrong with the OEM intake, but where I have probably slightly 'overmodified' my car for it's daily duties, I'm trying to find a resolution to get a happy medium without changing CAI for the 3rd time as I believe this product is a very good one. Whilst I love turbo cars, I still like a good element of consistent linearity of acceleration over the entire pedal, and this is what I'm aiming to achieve, even at the expense of a few ponies and torques.
 
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Which part of the rear section is this Warren? Is it the inlet to the turbo?
 
Which part of the rear section is this Warren? Is it the inlet to the turbo?

The part that bolts onto the flate metal heat shield above the exhaust manifold (above where the two engine cover mounting spiggots / coil packs sit)

Or maybe if it doesn't solve the issue:

ARAB80TT.jpg


with a smaller battery:

ody-40.jpg


Only 25cms long!! link
 
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That pic is from a TT and it looks the tits!

Could always relocate the battery to the boot...
 
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Could always relocate the battery to the boot...

Someone has tried, and it's been dropped as it's too difficult / expensive. Want to measure up the diddy battery to see how much space is saved.

Only prohibitive issue is that the battery & lugs are likely to be well over £150, then the ITG pipework and intake amendments are going to cost another £350 which is making this look an inordinately expensive '**** about' exercise. I see the logic (removing a bend from the pipework is good - nice intake which is sealed is good etc...), but I'm staring at a price point which is meaning half of my original intake kit will be redundant, and I'm starting from scratch again. I could never have imagined spending so much money trying to get air into my car ahead of owning the S3. I bought my LCR intake through gritted teeth at £180 (Dynatwist), then £40 for a SEAT Sport Leon BTCC intake feed.
 
The part that bolts onto the flate metal heat shield above the exhaust manifold (above where the two engine cover mounting spiggots / coil packs sit)

Or maybe if it doesn't solve the issue:

ARAB80TT.jpg


with a smaller battery:

ody-40.jpg


Only 25cms long!! link

Did Andy spill a few beans btw :eyebrows:

Someone has tried, and it's been dropped as it's too difficult / expensive. Want to measure up the diddy battery to see how much space is saved.

Yes this is a very expensive option if you want it done right like in the audi a3 3.2 (battery is in the back in the 3.2) but more on that later. :arco:
 
Ok been reading this with interest as it progresses. Perhaps it may be worth looking at the causes of heat soak within the engine compartment rather than trying to address specifics although *ace*'s idea (and a few others) on ducting air direct to the filter / engine bay goes some way as a remedy. Please read:

http://www.sonerai.net/CMS/index.php?option=com_jfusion&Itemid=160&jfile=index.php&topic=1143.45;wap

Then look at this (the thermal insulation part):

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aftermarket_exhaust_parts

-The engine is not the only major heat source in the engine bay, there is also the exhaust downpipes.
-the turbo can be made more efficient by heatshielding it
-Black CAI are not ideal if they are not heatshielded or coated in a heat resistant coating - this is basic fundemental stuff and should have been addressed and supplied by the manufacturers as a packaged solution before selling.
 
Did Andy spill a few beans btw :eyebrows:



Yes this is a very expensive option if you want it done right like in the audi a3 3.2 (battery is in the back in the 3.2) but more on that later. :arco:

So are you the fabled person who's been looking into all this???!!! :p

He's been mentioning some other person with a 8P3 Audi and always wondered who it was!!

My battery only seems to be running at 13.6v where I'd expect it to be running at 14.4v when the engine runs, so was considering changing it anyway. If I do I may as well go for diddy battery as it's only 25cm long, saves a shed load of weight, and will free up some desperately needed space. That free's up other options.

@ S3 SportGuy - will heatshielding the turbo on these cars not cause them to overheat or caiuse knock on issues. I remember when I was thinking about wrapping my iinlet manifold on my Leon I was strongly advised against it by someone who said that they need to cool naturally to ensure:

1) the sensors work / read accurately (mind you on stg2+ this may not be an issue)
2) the turbo / exhaust can dissapate it's heat making it more efficient

I know on NA cars heat wrapping is common practice for fast road / race cars, but never considered it for turbo.
 
So are you the fabled person who's been looking into all this???!!! :p

He's been mentioning some other person with a 8P3 Audi and always wondered who it was!!

My battery only seems to be running at 13.6v where I'd expect it to be running at 14.4v when the engine runs, so was considering changing it anyway. If I do I may as well go for diddy battery as it's only 25cm long, saves a shed load of weight, and will free up some desperately needed space. That free's up other options.

Haha, cats out the bag lol, yeah ive been inquiring into this and a lot of options have been brought up but I will let you know the final options (and disregarded ones) in a weeks time since I want to do a full write up. That odyessy racing extreme 40 battery is not that light lol, its only a couple kg lighter than standard battery, weights an absolute ton, was surprised myself :huh:
 
Anyone know if ITG are open on a saturday?I'll be near Coventry tomorrow and fancy going there to pick up a kit for my S3!

Cheers
 
So are you the fabled person who's been looking into all this???!!! :p

He's been mentioning some other person with a 8P3 Audi and always wondered who it was!!

My battery only seems to be running at 13.6v where I'd expect it to be running at 14.4v when the engine runs, so was considering changing it anyway. If I do I may as well go for diddy battery as it's only 25cm long, saves a shed load of weight, and will free up some desperately needed space. That free's up other options.

@ S3 SportGuy - will heatshielding the turbo on these cars not cause them to overheat or caiuse knock on issues. I remember when I was thinking about wrapping my iinlet manifold on my Leon I was strongly advised against it by someone who said that they need to cool naturally to ensure:

1) the sensors work / read accurately (mind you on stg2+ this may not be an issue)
2) the turbo / exhaust can dissapate it's heat making it more efficient

I know on NA cars heat wrapping is common practice for fast road / race cars, but never considered it for turbo.

Wrapping the inlet manifold will have zero benefit for a couple of reasons:
1: its plastic. The plastic is poor conductor of heat and if you touch it after a run its not very warm at all.
2: the position. due to the intake being right at the front it gets enough air to keep it cool.

Wrapping the EXHAUST manifold on the other hand will provide gains. The turbo is driven by hot expanding gases, much of heat in the exhaust gas is lost thru the exhaust mani. which can glow orange hot. This is all energy lost which could go into spooling up the turbo with more vigor. This is a tricky job which obviously needs your turbo & manifold removing but would give worthwile gains on any car, AND help reduce engine bay temps, reducing intake heat soak.
The bad side is can apparently reduce the lifespan of your exhaust manifold, but on our cars with relatively mild EGTs cant see this being too much of an issue. If someone was going BT on an S3/A3 this would be a definate YES for a mod to do.
 
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@akash - post above, my mistake - meant exhaust, not inlet! oops!
 
Hi am currently running a K16 turbo on my 2.0T. On average, my exhaust temp hovers around 600 to 700 degree. But on hard drive, it will go all the way up to 900. I have been considering for a while whether to wrap the exhaust manifold as it might cause damage to the manifold. Any guidance here?
 
So what do you all think of the Forge Twintake when opposed to the ITG?
It seems to me that they have solved both the cold air supply problem, and the fact that enclosed filters were getting maxed out...
 
So what do you all think of the Forge Twintake when opposed to the ITG?
It seems to me that they have solved both the cold air supply problem, and the fact that enclosed filters were getting maxed out...

ZBOYD on SEATCUPRA.net has owned both filter systems, and I believe he found the ITG a bit breathless around town at low revs, but better on autobahn style runs where the filter can run at maximum capacity. The Forge suited his needs better for general driving.

I like the ITG as it adds something to the overly cosseted driving experience of the S3. It brings a bit of drama and excitement to the soundtrack, and it provides a filter head with enough surface area to achieve well over 400bhp in a very cramped and difficult engine bay.

I have to say that since having the ducting hose from the front fog light:

P1010860.JPG


P1010858.JPG


P1010857.JPG


yes the filter has got dirtier quicker, and yes I do have to be careful when driving behind lorries in VERY heavy rain storms (splash), but the overall effect is that I get much more linear acceleration pull.

The only other worthwhile mod I've made to the ITG other than heat shield tape is returning to use the OEM spring tension clip from the OEM set up where the 90 degree silicone hose with the DV tap attaches to the turbo unit. VAG must have chosen to use a spring tension clip for good reason as when I used jubilee clips they would expand, get loose, and then I could just pull off this pipe with light pressure. Since returning the the OEM spring tension clip I've not had another moments issue.

With the new air feed hose in place I've been able to reinstall the heat shield unit to compartmentalise the colder intake air, and it's all good.

Trying to decide which is best on these intakes is hard as it depends what you want from the drive / appearance. Some think the ITG looks 'unfinished', where I think it looks industrial! I very much like the Forge unit, but in real world terms I can't imagine performance wise there will be night and day between them, just that they'll both be much better than the OEM!
 
Hi guys, i know this post is pretty old but just if your intrested i am selling my full ITG induction kit, and the enclosed conversion kit. (connects onto existing kit and replaces the cone).
Kit fits A3 and S3
 

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