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Thread: how to change spark plugs

  1. #1
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    how to change spark plugs

    just doing a service on my car just not to sure on how to change the spark plugs, does anyone know how i get to them i dont want to brake anything. so i just lift the spark plug connectors or do i need a special tool
    i also havent changed the cabin filter so any advice on that would be helpfull
    thanks

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  3. #2
    Boydie's Avatar
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    If you are not confident in doing it, go somewhere or get someone who is. You can easily snap spark plugs when tightening and they can get lodged in the engine.

    You need a special tool to remove them which you can get from halfords

    You need to remove the engine cover, disconnect the coil packs and pull them out one at a time. Use the special plug tool to remove the plugs and then replace them with new ones.

  4. #3
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    It's not a job I would do without a torque wrench.

    For a brand new spark plug (never been fitted before so the washer is not compressed), in an alloy headed engine like ours (not a cast iron head), the 14mm thread diameter plugs require:

    18-22lb/ft torque to do them up (25-35Nm). Source: Spark-Plugs.co.uk (here)

    IF you are determined to fit them yourself, and you don't have a torque wrench, then on the box of NGK plugs in my drawer, there is a diagram which shows for newly unfitted plugs that you do the plug up finger tight, then:

    For brand new unfitted plugs: Turn 1/16 of a revolution using deep plug socket / wrench (minute hand from 00mins on a clock face to about 5 minutes past the hour)

    For refitted plugs (post checking): Turn 1/2 to 2/3's of a revolution using deep plug socket / wrench (minute hand from 00 mins on a clock face to between 30minutes - 40 minutes past the hour)

    Whatever method ensure consistency of approach for each plug, and spray a little electrical contact cleaner onto all contact points of plug / coil pack for best quality connection.

    HOWEVER please be mindful alloy heads are made for lightness, and therefore lack the material strength composition of cast alloy. Overtightening may not only cause fatal damage to your engine head, but could cause excessive heat transfer from the block into the plug causing the engine to run erratically, and the plug to be exposed to excessive temperatures during operation (tip failure/overheating of ceramic collar). I know this sounds a bit excessive, and is unlikely, but it's better to know the risks in advance.
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    warren, you have just knocked me down several rungs on my ladder lol makes my explanation look like a 5 years olds essay!
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    Quote Originally Posted by Boydie View Post
    warren, you have just knocked me down several rungs on my ladder lol makes my explanation look like a 5 years olds essay!
    If it's any consolation none of it can be claimed as personal knowledge or expertise - all skanked off the web or the side of boxes !!!
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    KRL
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    Here is a good DIY for changing spark plugs on the 2.0 TFSI:
    http://www.golfmkv.com/forums/showth...ht=spark+plugs
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    think i explained it wrong im not sure how to remove the coil pack, do i just pull it out one at a time or so i need a tool
    it looks more like you need to twist it slightly but i might be completly wrong
    its a 1.6 fsi by the way

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    Quote Originally Posted by ru4shaw View Post
    think i explained it wrong im not sure how to remove the coil pack, do i just pull it out one at a time or so i need a tool
    it looks more like you need to twist it slightly but i might be completly wrong
    its a 1.6 fsi by the way
    As per KRL's link...









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    mine looks slightly different would it still work in the same way thought just need to be pulled out

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  12. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by warren_S3 View Post
    It's not a job I would do without a torque wrench.

    For a brand new spark plug (never been fitted before so the washer is not compressed), in an alloy headed engine like ours (not a cast iron head), the 14mm thread diameter plugs require:

    18-22lb/ft torque to do them up (25-35Nm). Source: Spark-Plugs.co.uk (here)

    IF you are determined to fit them yourself, and you don't have a torque wrench, then on the box of NGK plugs in my drawer, there is a diagram which shows for newly unfitted plugs that you do the plug up finger tight, then:

    For brand new unfitted plugs: Turn 1/16 of a revolution using deep plug socket / wrench (minute hand from 00mins on a clock face to about 5 minutes past the hour)

    For refitted plugs (post checking): Turn 1/2 to 2/3's of a revolution using deep plug socket / wrench (minute hand from 00 mins on a clock face to between 30minutes - 40 minutes past the hour)

    Whatever method ensure consistency of approach for each plug, and spray a little electrical contact cleaner onto all contact points of plug / coil pack for best quality connection.

    HOWEVER please be mindful alloy heads are made for lightness, and therefore lack the material strength composition of cast alloy. Overtightening may not only cause fatal damage to your engine head, but could cause excessive heat transfer from the block into the plug causing the engine to run erratically, and the plug to be exposed to excessive temperatures during operation (tip failure/overheating of ceramic collar). I know this sounds a bit excessive, and is unlikely, but it's better to know the risks in advance.
    Just checking regards the 1/16th turn for new plugs.....if they are flat seated plugs, then it would seem half a turn is required?
    If they are conical, then only 1/16th is required.
    Information here
    Spark Plugs Mobile

    Likewise, the NGK listed for the S3 is a flat type Spark Plugs Mobile

    I'm thinking a torque wrench is safest, like you say.
    But would also be concerned that some might not have used a torque wrench and subsequently got loose plugs.
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  13. #12
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    There are a couple of dangers to plug tightening.

    1) over tighten it and you can snap the plug / strip the threads in the head
    2) over tighten and you can get too much heat dissipation from the plug to the head
    3) under tighten and you can lose compression and get blow back

    With new plugs as you say it depends on the seating. I can't remember off the top of my head what washer type the S3 runs, but the tightening regimes are different for conical / flat washers so go by the guidance on the box. Also if you remove the plug and reinsert it (following any inspection), the washer will have been slightly compacted, hence why the torque wrench approach is always safest in my mind.
    Last edited by warren_S5; 7th March 2014 at 20:26.
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    I changed mine no probs (although I have owned 23 cars over the years and changed the plugs on most so I wasn't starting from nowhere). The Coil packs are a bugger - you think you are going to break them. I made up a little hook tool from some stiff wire I had about - a coat hanger would probably work. The trick is to try and spread the area over which you're applying the force rather than trying to lever up one end and risk breaking it.

    I'd also check they (the plugs) are due for change - mine were a bit overdue when I did 'em, and I thought it would be a chance to cure the intermittent misfire I had at idle. It didn't, and considering the ones that came out had done >60K they were pristine, so I wouldn't bother unless they are really due a change.

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    Yip that's exactly the way I do it with cable ties. Except, to avoid buying the special slimline socket, I use a box spanner set.
    Placing a smaller one inside the larger one, to increase the reach.

    It's very important if you can to scrap and clear any debris from the hole before removing the spark plug.

    Quote Originally Posted by KRL View Post

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    Did these early this evening.
    Hardest part was getting the engine cover off, crikey it's a pain in the chuff.

    Not sure if the plugs were bad or not, but here is a picture of them.
    Attached Images Attached Images
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  17. #16
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    Don't look untoward
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    Cheers Warren, that was my thoughts but good to have a second opinion.
    I found the guide good, but also used the link to the golf forum above.

    I had a torque wrench but went with the half turn option as per the golf guide and the ngk box, once I'd finger tightened them.
    It just 'felt' right when I tightened them.
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    me next I belive! Great guide Warren, thanks a million.
    Be patient. English is tough.

    Now:

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  20. #19
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    Be patient. English is tough.

    Now:

    61 Audi S3 BE S-Tronic Ibis White: Build Thread.
    / Black Edition pack (SatNav, Bluetooth) / Parking Sensors / Tinted windows / piano inlays and finish / Cruise Control / Interior light pack /
    /Mods: REVO Stage 2+: Revo Intake / BCS Powervalve TBE system / LOBA HPFP / Crystal Clear H11 FOGS / Black roof + spoiler vinyl wrap / H&R Anti-roll bars / Superpro ALK /


  21. #20
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    I bought the ones in this thread as recommended by NGK UK and they seem to run better for longer. Iridiums are great for race cars where you don't want smooth idle (tips are iridium so they don't degrade with hours of high temperature / high rpm use).

    Have a read of this thread to see what you think: Spark Plug recommendations for S3 8P 2.0T (OEM & modified)
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  22. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by warren_S3 View Post
    I bought the ones in this thread as recommended by NGK UK and they seem to run better for longer. Iridiums are great for race cars where you don't want smooth idle (tips are iridium so they don't degrade with hours of high temperature / high rpm use).

    Have a read of this thread to see what you think: Spark Plug recommendations for S3 8P 2.0T (OEM & modified)
    so best is to stick with NGK PFR7S8EG even when I run stage2+ atm? Thx
    Be patient. English is tough.

    Now:

    61 Audi S3 BE S-Tronic Ibis White: Build Thread.
    / Black Edition pack (SatNav, Bluetooth) / Parking Sensors / Tinted windows / piano inlays and finish / Cruise Control / Interior light pack /
    /Mods: REVO Stage 2+: Revo Intake / BCS Powervalve TBE system / LOBA HPFP / Crystal Clear H11 FOGS / Black roof + spoiler vinyl wrap / H&R Anti-roll bars / Superpro ALK /


  23. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by RedDejavu View Post
    so best is to stick with NGK PFR7S8EG even when I run stage2+ atm? Thx
    Yes, with the copper cores they have much better conductivity and will run far more consistently. Just get them gapped down a bit before you fit them and they will run a treat.
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  24. #23
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    I just went with the NGK ones, as per Warrens previous post.
    Managed to get all 4 from Amazon, delivered for £32.
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  25. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by warren_S3 View Post
    Yes, with the copper cores they have much better conductivity and will run far more consistently. Just get them gapped down a bit before you fit them and they will run a treat.
    is the gapping nessesary as I dont feel confident to do it myself tbh. Especially for the first time
    Be patient. English is tough.

    Now:

    61 Audi S3 BE S-Tronic Ibis White: Build Thread.
    / Black Edition pack (SatNav, Bluetooth) / Parking Sensors / Tinted windows / piano inlays and finish / Cruise Control / Interior light pack /
    /Mods: REVO Stage 2+: Revo Intake / BCS Powervalve TBE system / LOBA HPFP / Crystal Clear H11 FOGS / Black roof + spoiler vinyl wrap / H&R Anti-roll bars / Superpro ALK /


 

 

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