Urgent Help needed with Audi 2.0FSI..

[l33tgama]

Hi there,

Im new to this forum so here it goes..

I bought my Audi 2.0FSI back in October and its been fine until around December. it started to play up the first symptom was that the engine coolant light kept beeping at me, so i topped it it went away.. the next problem was that when i was driving it activated the "Get me Home mode" so after reading a few forums online i reset the ECU / reset everything and that problem went away.. now the next problem..i was driving a few weeks ago and then the Engine Management light came on, so i kept driving and it disappeared the next thing i know the light comes on solid, so i drove it home and checked everything out everything seemed ok.

Started it up again and now it Jerk's when idle.. i read online and decided to purchase a VAG com with software etc.. and the VAG com come up with the following errors.

5 Faults Found:
16395 - Bank 1: Camshaft A (Intake): ****** Setpoint not Reached (Over-Advanced)
P0011 - 008 - Implausible Signal - Intermittent
16500 - Shareware Version. To Decode all DTCs
P0116 - 008 - Please Register/Activate - Intermittent
16575 - Shareware Version. To Decode all DTCs
P0191 - 008 - Please Register/Activate - Intermittent
16711 - Knock Sensor 1 (G61): Signal too Low
P0327 - 002 - Lower Limit Exceeded - Intermittent
17439 - Shareware Version. To Decode all DTCs
P1031 - 004 - Please Register/Activate - Intermittent
Readiness: 0000 0000

I also read online that the problem could be related to the Coilpack's so i have purchased a new set of these..

Can someone please shed any light into my Audi Problems its driving me crazy and i dont want to get shafted by Audi if i take my car into them to get it serviced when i can complete most of the work myself..

Many thanks and sorry for the essay,

Carl.

 

[jb0o]

You only have 2 faults as the 3 shareware faults were generated by using a shareware version of VAGCOM.

16395 - Bank 1: Camshaft A (Intake): ****** Setpoint not Reached (Over-Advanced)
P0011 - 008 - Implausible Signal - Intermittent

16711 - Knock Sensor 1 (G61): Signal too Low
P0327 - 002 - Lower Limit Exceeded - Intermittent

 

[jb0o]

On Ross-Tech Wiki I have found the following:

16395/P0011/000017 - Bank 1: Camshaft A (Intake): ****** Setpoint not Reached (Over-Advanced)

Possible Symptoms

• Power Loss

Possible Causes

• Camshaft Adjustment Valve 1 (N205) faulty
• Fuel Pump Relay (J17) faulty

Possible Solutions

• Check Camshaft Adjustment Valve 1 (N205)
• Check Fuel Pump Relay (J17)

Special Notes

• When found in Engine: 4.0l W8
  • Check TPL 2010059(RoW)
    • Check/Replace Oil Sieve in Timing Case (Camshaft Adjuster)

16711/P0327 - Knock Sensor 1 (G61): Signal Too Low

Possible Symptoms

• Irregular rpm
• Drivebility problems
• Loss of power
• Engine damage

Possible Causes

• Circuit G61 short to Ground
• Circuit G61 open
• G61 loose
• G61 damaged
• Control Module damaged

Possible Solutions

• Tighten Knock Sensor 1 (G61)
• Check wiring and connections
• Check Knock Sensor 1 (G61) and Knock Control

Special Notes

• This feature search for unusual (spontaneous) combustion. The sensor detects unusual vibrations and based on that it generates a voltage. Is this voltage outside a certain limit a dtc will be set.

Hope this helps you in some way mate,

 

[Khufu]

You really need to get it scanned by a proper VCDS lead, not the cheap ebay pirated ones as you have seen they dont work too well. Where are you located, maybe a fellow member might be close enough to help.

It could well be the coilpacks. Im assuming you haven't fitted them yet?

 

[paddy]

I get that cam fault code all the time.....I did put a new fuel pump relay in but it didnt make any difference.

The trouble is it could be a problem anywhere down the line that shows up as a cam fault and not the cam at all. the diagnostic system is only as good as Audi were willing to buy off the part manufacturer.

 

[l33tgama]

Hi there thanks everyone for the reply's really appreciate it.

Khufu.. your right i think the cheap cables are no good at all they dont bring up the correct information at all..
Im located in the Surrey Area, and can travel to where ever anyone is located to try and pin point this damn problem.

You are Correct, as for the Coil-pack's i have them arriving hopefully tomorrow so once i have fitted them hopefully they will resolve the problem.

Fingers crossed.. would you recommend resetting the ECU? after fitting the coil packs? then see if i get any error codes via VAG com?

Carl.

 

[paddy]

Yes, clear the codes and try again.

 

[akash_sky1]

did the new coil packs clear the problem? I have a similar problem with jerky/lumpy idle after my timing belt was replaced.

 

[l33tgama]

Hi akash_sky1,
Correct the coil packs sure did solve the problem after installing them i reset the ECU and she was good as new, i would recommend resetting your Ecu first akash_sky1 before purchasing the coil packs and see if that clears the problem, if you still get faults i would recommend scanning with a VAG COM to take a look at the error codes as this will help you pin point your problems.

 

[sohail579]

Hi akash_sky1,
Correct the coil packs sure did solve the problem after installing them i reset the ECU and she was good as new, i would recommend resetting your Ecu first akash_sky1 before purchasing the coil packs and see if that clears the problem, if you still get faults i would recommend scanning with a VAG COM to take a look at the error codes as this will help you pin point your problems.

my car has now developed this same fault..

2 Faults Found
17811 - EGR System: Regulation Deviation
P1403 - 008 - Implausible Signal - MIL ON
16395 - Bank 1: Camshaft A (Intake): ****** Setpoint not Reached (Over-Advanced)
P0011 - 008 - Implausible Signal - Intermittent
Readiness: 0000 0100

how can i reset the ECU? also any chance anyone can shed any light on the EGR System fault?

i have a A3 2.0 FSI 2003

thanks

 

[breakdj]

I have an a3 with bpy 2.0 tfsi engine. Went through a couple of camshaft followers, a hpfp. Irritating, to say the least. These are repairs I have done since my decision to stop letting dealer touch my car and turn my own wrenches. Got a vagcom, triple-squares and some esoteric sockets, and a timing tool kit.

I had been hearing a whirring high speed kind of grind coming from driver side of engine at high load and around 2700 rpm. Weird sound. Turns out my timing chain tensioner was failing, and letting enough slop in chain for it to start touching the cover. Not good!

So i decided to take care of both the defective intake camshaft (which is what caused eaten camshaft followers and hpfp), and to fix timing chain and tensioner last weekend.

The timing tool kit is essential! Pull valve cover, coil packs, plugs, and top timing belt cover. With cams exposed and plugs out (and car in neutral!), you can turn the can belt sprocket on passenger side to get engine to tdc. At this point the lovely camshaft lock tool drops in to the driver side of cams, bolts down and locks them in place.

With tool in place the top of the engine's mechanical timing has to be correct. I called and talked to service manager at dealership and confirmed this is true.

Then you need to verify that the bottom/driveshaft is also at tdc. You should be able to peer down at serpentine belt lower pully and see a mark. Them mark should line up to a little arrow on timing belt cover.

If it lines up, you are gold. I suspect the timing belt jumped a notch. Mine was off a tooth, and I cried and screamed out a few new curse words, threw a tantrum, etc.

To put the belt in place you need to slip the timing belt off, rotate driveshaft a tad, and slip belt back on. Sounds simple, but entails pulling off all belts, pulleys, engine cover, passenger wheel, coolant reservoir, supporting engine on floor jack, turbo downpipe, then the motor mount. At that point you can get at the tensioner, slip belt off, allign driveshaft, and put things back together.

If you haven't done water pump, rollers, seals and timing belt recently and can afford it, you would be utterly insane not to replace with new ones now too...

The timing chain on the otherside can be equally challenging. Get hpfp off, vacuum pump, pcv valve crap, timing chain cover with cruel hidden bolts, then the potential BigDowner, the bolt that holds timing chain adjuster to exhaust cam. The timing tool kit comes with the correct socket for this bolt, like an exaggerated monster torx but it is not a torx. If that bolt strips (mine did, it was so freaking tight I couldn't believe it). Big big bummer. Tried eazyouts. What a pathetic joke, no way. Had to drill head off bolt, recessed in the middle of adjuster on cam. Got it, but it was a tense, critical agonizing job. Then getting new chain on was very hard, of course.

Car runs great now. I need to use vagcom to calibrate can adjuster now, with new chain. Old one quite stretched. Engine codes, measuring block 94, foot on brake and touching gas pedal with engine running. Takes a few minutes for computer to build a new performance matrix, it will vary rpm and timing and run like a donkey during test, but when done should be in good shape.

Cheers - hope this helps someone.

 

[breakdj]

My point in previous post is the timing belt job that was done on op's car probably got botched. That's why code says it can't reach ****** setpoint. Engine mechanical timing is wrong

 

[T8DPR]

did you buy privately or from a garage??

if garage, they will foot the entire bill for repair

 

[breakdj]

Good old Audi USA. I am first owner. Jerks. Great car, and I thought it would be first car I would not turn a wrench on. Famous last words. I have a stack of dealer repair receipts 1/2 inch thick. Why is my car the only one on the lot that sounds like a diesel but isn't? They fluffed-off the camshaft/follower issue while my car was dying. When I pulled hpfp myself and found follower eaten through, pump slagged, etc, I decided they could not be entrusted to take my cash, not fix car, and label it service. Truth in engineering, unless you get a first-gen car and they dis you...

 

[breakdj]

It was around 50k miles when I fired them, it has 90k now. Ridiculous.

 

[breakdj]

Now I have been under the hood so much the bolts all have names.

 

[breakdj]

Blauparts.com, ecs tuning, eBay and amazon, along with my stubborn determination and ability to 'speak to machines' have allowed me to cut Audi out of the loop and move on. If I am desperate and pressed for time I might get an n249 from dealer, something like that, but otherwise we are done. Oh, I like their Oktoberfest beer and bratwurst thing. I have no problem eating their food and drinking their beer. Service, customer retention, not so much. Cheers!

 

[breakdj]

BTW, car is stock. I have not chipped or modded it out at all (yet). If I was racing it around and screwing with its programming, then this whole saga would be on me.

 

[breakdj]

My tip to everyone: use an old shoelace to pull coil packs. Just slip it around top of pack and give a firm yank. Butter! I made a special tool to get at hpfp banjo bolt too. Pull the tip of an 8mm triple-square out of the socket it comes in, get a little combination wrench a little bigger than bit, and use a little piece of silicon tape and press the triple-square bit into the closed end of combo wrench. This gives you the clearance to get at that bolt without breaking anything and without risk of dropping tool into The Void.