Axle Stand Points
- Thread starter Wai-Fan
- Start date
I wouldn't have thought the rubber bit was the right place. The axle is always the best place but isn't always accessible on modern cars. Not looked on my car though.
If it's just a quick lift then you can use the normal jacking point for a trolley jack.
If it's just a quick lift then you can use the normal jacking point for a trolley jack.
auroan
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More importantly whats going on with the sill on the top right of the first picture. Looks a bit knacked to me.
auroan
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Is it ?!?!?! I've had 7 Audi's and a host of other VAG motors during my driving years and never seen a sill edge seperating and mangel'd like that ?
No, wouldnt trust them with stands, stick stands under the big alum rounded bottomed points you can see on front in 1st pic cause its flat on bottom not round & this is safest part as I have done several times & currently am & the car doesnt budge a mm, perfectly safe, but I also have jack on one side where the jacking point is crumpled which also is same on my car so dont worry, just extra safety incase something like a typhoon should come along quickly, lol, anyway as said perfectly safe under those 2 points on front axle, rears are not to simple.
No, wouldnt trust them with stands, stick stands under the big alum rounded bottomed points you can see on front in 1st pic cause its flat on bottom not round & this is safest part as I have done several times & currently am & the car doesnt budge a mm, perfectly safe, but I also have jack on one side where the jacking point is crumpled which also is same on my car so dont worry, just extra safety incase something like a typhoon should come along quickly, lol, anyway as said perfectly safe under those 2 points on front axle, rears are not to simple.
gixxer600k4
Registered User
if you look below the doors on sill where the 'bobbly' protection stuff is, you will see a triangular indent at front and back of the sill and your jack, in the car or a trolley jack, needs to go under that indent
Guys, I use a trolley jack sometimes and made a plywood block that fits the slots under the car after bending one of the jacking points under my scooby. Stops the chassis getting knackered. You could try the same for axle stands too...
cheers
Si
cheers
Si
I wouldnt trust plywood on axle stands, thats fairly dangerous mate, sorry but you need a solid flat contact for axle stands, the location I mentioned earlier are the correct places for the fronts on the "AXLE", dont mean to be pushy but we're talking your life if they fail.
Absolutely, if you're going to do it, they'd have to be made with a lip of some sort to stop them sliding off the stands!
Safety first... and last!
PS Decent hardwood ply, not that flakey softwood Chinese kack!
Safety first... and last!
PS Decent hardwood ply, not that flakey softwood Chinese kack!
DaveS3Turbo
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Err.
Don't take this the wrong way, but I put my axel stands under the axel on each corner. The car is going no where, have done this around 15 times where the wishbone goes to the wheel.
David
Don't take this the wrong way, but I put my axel stands under the axel on each corner. The car is going no where, have done this around 15 times where the wishbone goes to the wheel.
David
Dave, thats the location I am talking about mate, thats the best place to put them & safest, doesnt budge
gabrialboy
Registered User
So I only discovered this thread after jacking up my S3.
After discovering that the manual does NOT indicate a proper placement I inspected the the area away from the pointers on the body kit. The only place that seemed sturdy enough to me was as indicated in the 1st pic, the sill area (that looks crumpled)
I was unsure as to where exactly place my scissor jack. Did not bother with the OEM unit so decided to proceed on the sill area.... well the car lifted fine but the sill got squashed... is this a problem? I'll take some pics but can someone please post some pics indicating exactly where the jacking points are for the S3... I don't want to damage the side skirts of the body kit.... but you can also only go in so far otherwise you won't be able to use a jack.... 
I've seen the trolley jack point with the rubbery/plastic covers but they're quite far inn... jack won't work there... Let's put an end to damaged body kitts and sills for good!
After discovering that the manual does NOT indicate a proper placement I inspected the the area away from the pointers on the body kit. The only place that seemed sturdy enough to me was as indicated in the 1st pic, the sill area (that looks crumpled) I was unsure as to where exactly place my scissor jack. Did not bother with the OEM unit so decided to proceed on the sill area.... well the car lifted fine but the sill got squashed... is this a problem? I'll take some pics but can someone please post some pics indicating exactly where the jacking points are for the S3... I don't want to damage the side skirts of the body kit.... but you can also only go in so far otherwise you won't be able to use a jack.... I've seen the trolley jack point with the rubbery/plastic covers but they're quite far inn... jack won't work there... Let's put an end to damaged body kitts and sills for good!
gabrialboy
Registered User
This quote:
...leads to this outlook:
The 'cup' of the trolley jack mangles the seam as shown in the picture if you do that.
You should use a wooden disc in the 'cup', with a left-right facing "slot" sawn into it, if you're going to lift at the seam like that. That way, the panel seam fits into the 'slot' (just like it fits into the slot in the factory jack) and the disc fits into the 'cup' on the trolley jack.
Lifting it 'the lazy way' as Staz describes, is what buckles the seam, where the two 'sides' of the cup 'chew' into the panel.
It's a particularly bad idea in places where they salt roads in winter, because the damage tends to break through the galvanic bond with the zinc plating, and as a result rust can take a hold... RIGHT where you don't need it... at the jacking points.
by all means lift at the roadside jacking points using a trolley jack, but ONLY with a slotted attachment for your trolley jack... I see SO many cars ******** up in this way that it's made me wonder if I shouldn't just go into business making these things! -The fact that anyone can make their own if they want to, (using only a bit of wood and a crosscut saw) always put me off, but it seems nobody actually wants to...
Keith
Keith
...leads to this outlook:
The 'cup' of the trolley jack mangles the seam as shown in the picture if you do that.
You should use a wooden disc in the 'cup', with a left-right facing "slot" sawn into it, if you're going to lift at the seam like that. That way, the panel seam fits into the 'slot' (just like it fits into the slot in the factory jack) and the disc fits into the 'cup' on the trolley jack.
Lifting it 'the lazy way' as Staz describes, is what buckles the seam, where the two 'sides' of the cup 'chew' into the panel.
It's a particularly bad idea in places where they salt roads in winter, because the damage tends to break through the galvanic bond with the zinc plating, and as a result rust can take a hold... RIGHT where you don't need it... at the jacking points.
by all means lift at the roadside jacking points using a trolley jack, but ONLY with a slotted attachment for your trolley jack... I see SO many cars ******** up in this way that it's made me wonder if I shouldn't just go into business making these things! -The fact that anyone can make their own if they want to, (using only a bit of wood and a crosscut saw) always put me off, but it seems nobody actually wants to...
Keith
Keith
