s3 with no boost

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s3

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hi, as the title says really.... i'm a new member looking for some decent advice really... suddenly on the way home tonight my car lost 80% of its power and is not boosting at all... i cant seem to hear the turbo spool up or any noice from the dv so im guessing im not boosting. Dont know why this happened and just happened suddenly without any warning.

my car is a 2007 s3, slightly modded with a custom code phase 2 remap, apr fuel pump, milltek high flow cat and system, green panel filter and forge spacer valve fitted.. im told this is good for around 340bhp...

can my problems be assiociated with the map or have i done somthing more serious to the car... although the car itslef is running perfectly fine.

i dont have acces to vag-com and im getting desperate now..

any advice will be greatly appreciated.

cheers:wacko::banghead:
 
Is the CEL (Check Engine Light) on? It's possible your car has gone to limp mode.

Another possible is that the DV has split.

Sorry to say but Diagnostics will be your friend on this one.
 
no engine light on, i have tried her again a few moments ago and still the same...

i will check the dv now...

thanks again
 
It wont be the DV.. A broken DV diaphram will hurt power output but nothing like what your describing.. Sounds like a map problem to me??

Call CC and see what they have to say? Do you have Vag-Com? Would be worth having it checked out..

Alternatively check the intake, and that there isn't something physically restricting the air getting into the turbo..

Other than that it could be the fuel pump cam follower that has **** out, or the turbo has shat itself..

Good luck

Jonny
 
no dont have any kind of access to vag com, if it was possible pump or turbo failure would i know in some way about it?

i know it sounds weird but power just died and i was reduced to about 20% power.... the car doesnt rev above 5000rpm and thats with my foot welded to the floor....
 
Maybe said before but, hole in a hose or hose popped off ?
 
Sounds like its gone into limp mode mate..

Turbo failure would be pretty smokey generally, and pump failure would be very noisy in the pump area..

Again sounds like a mapping problem.. Was just throwing a couple of ideas in there to see if that helped you out..

Check down the front of the engine bay, follow the hose from the throttle body, to the intercooler etc.. All of that system needs to be connected for obvious reasons, any leaks there and that could be it..

Jonny
 
thats what i feared, im going try to remove the engine cover have a check all round and then do a process of elimination.Can anybody give me some advice on how to remove the engine cover?, and also is there a way to get the car out of limp mode or is this a job for vag-com?

is there a likelyhood of the forge dv being split ?


thanks again:sos:
 
Engine cover. Just grap either side and pull like a ******. Or do each corner at a time.
 
audi upgrades
I don't believe that a map can just develop a problem. It is more likely that something has been sensed as a problem by the ECU and to prevent any damage happening, it has reduced the power output.

Speculative diagnosis isn't the way to go. I'd speak to your C-C dealer. Did you get it done locally?

Gavin
 
ive disconnected the negative terminal of the battery to see if the ecu is actually in limp mode, this has proved unsucessful, so ive gone for a run and when i get the revs around the mid range, there's a wining noise, the kinda similar noise that you get when your window washers are empy... as the noise comes in at mid range power, where i think peak boost is on the map im presuming that this is the fuel pump, pretty poor if so as its only 6 weeks old.....

thanks for the help so far
 
all work was done local at psi tuning, the only problem is that i dont think they're open again until the new year....:banghead: and if it is the fuel pump, i know it came from the states and there was a 3 week wait for it..
 
If the pump has gone then PSI could refit a std one and flash you back to std if it's going to take a while to get a new one in.

TBH you need to get VAG-COM on it. I am not convinced that disconnecting the battery would clear any faults stored.

Gavin
 
If you try to remove the engine cover then make sure the engine is warm and work from the right rear as you look at it - It's the strongest part.
 
S3 i am in Crewe and have vagcom, i can do a scan for you if you like.
 
audi upgrades
meerry christmas



this whining noise has got progressivly worse now, there is no boost at all and at the stages when i get boost i get this whine, im conviunced its the pump but fear it may be the turbo as the car runs fine on idle, therfor if it was the pump surely there'd be no fuel being pumped at all? can anybody share any light on this...

and if it was turbo failure i would know about it i.e smoke, oil, noise etc...

thank you for the help so far:s3addict:
 
Get it into a garage mate. Dont risk driving it any more or you might end up knackering it.
 
I agree I don't think you'll want to be driving it. If it is the pump it will probably take out the cam as well if you aren't careful.
 
yep your definatly right on this, ive read some posts re pump failure and the consequences....just hope it can be sorted soon.... if its not the pump or the turbo any ideas what else it can be?
 
yes i definatley agree, has anybody had any similar kind of issues?

thanks again
 
Get RobinA3 to vagcom it mate....

He kindly offered in the posts below..

That would be the best bet if you cant wait til after new years..

Atleast you would know what the prob would be...
 
yes your right, ill keep everyone updated as to what the problem is

thanks for the help
 
just an update... a big thank you to RobinA3 for coming over to vag-com my car, this proved unsucessful as there were no fault codes thrown up, but we suspect either pooped fuel pump or shafted turbo, hopefully it will be the fuel pump as this will not cost me anything to rectify but fingers crossed its not the turbo....

couple of interesting things.. im getting no boost whatsoever, no smoke, no oil consumption, no noise from the turbo, no dumping of pressure...
if the turbo has blown surely ud still get some boost? noise, smoke etc...

we pinpointed the noise i described, the whining when its underload as to be around the fuel pump area. Now is it common for a 6 week old pump 2 give way?

also found a missfire on cyclinder 3? anybody help with this?

could it be related fuel wise if the pump has shat itself?

just very miffed at the mo, hope to god psi is open tomorrow so they can shed more light on it...

oh and on one of the blocks on vag-com (Robin A3 will no more on this) i was showing just over 5bar of pressure but the fuel pressure regulator was reading in -minus figures. is this normal?

appreciate the help

:keule:
 
Just checked on my car and in measurement block 103 the fuel regulator reads at 850 at idle whereas Andy's was reading at -300.

Anyone else with Vagcom be able to do a measure on their S3 by any chance please to compare?
 
There have been problems with the pressure regulator on the TFSi. I have seen a TSB but for US VW's although I am pretty sure cars in the UK have been affected.

Can't seem to find the TSB at the moment - Sorry.

Very odd that there are no fault codes, even for the low pressure in the fuel rail.

Are you able to pop the pump off yourself and have a look?
 
if the garage is still not open tomorrow im going to remove the pump and check it for piece of mind really..

do you know if the symptons im describing can be related to the fpr?

im still not ruling out the possibility of a blown turbo but im finding it hard to see how it could be.

thanks again for the help so far:wtf:
 
Andy i think the turbo is ok, judging by what we heard today from the engine the noise is coming from the fuel pump rather than the turbo, i am guessing that if the engine see's a low fuel pressure signal it will restrict the boost due to component protection.
 
Good job on diagnosing this problem guys! Yeah if the car cannot make requested fuel then it will cut boost accordingly, if the pump is shot then the car will not make any boost..

Take it back to where you had the pump done and get it sorted out mate.. Good luck!
 
thats what i was thinking johnnyc, anyhows psi isnt open and im presuming they will be back for business on the 5th of jan so im going to remove the fuel pump and c if thats the problem. is there any obvious things i should be looking for to determine failure of the part etc...

would appreciate the help on this one, im no stranger to getting me hands oily but never worked on the tfsi only the 1.8t and the car has been off the road for 5 days already...

thanks again
 
When removing the fuel pump be aware that there may be pressurised fuel in the lines. Do not open the drivers door with the pump disconnected as this activates the in tank pump.

I always put the car at TDC Cyl 1 before removing and installing a fuel pump.

Be careful not to over tighten the screws.
 
Briliant, thanks for that Stu, now when the pump is removed what am i looking for in respect of part failure?

or is going to be obvious if the part is shafted.

thanks again
 
not really much news as of yet

im still unable to get in contact with the garage, even today they are closed so hopefully it will be 5th of jan before i can get contact...

if im honest im getting a bit p**t off now as the cars been off the road since xmas eve and ive tried in vain to get in touch with psi, and nothing, not even times when they are back to business...oh well

i still believe its a possible fuel pump problem and have been looking at removing the pump myself, just for piece of mind really and to see if (i very much doubt it) anything can be sorted by myself..

im still looking at removing the pump myself but im wary as some of the how-to's ive looked at are a little vague as to the whole procedure. ive looked on different forums in the states and they look at problems relieving fuel pressure and making it easy to remove and this is what im unsure of... so does anybody have a better how-to?....

im toying with the idea that if the turbo has blown then the cheapest i can get a new unit from is £1100 and that would be pointless if its not strong enough, so maybe johhnyc could drop me a pm and give me some more info on your setup and costs etc...

last thing is that i noticed that the fuel pumps for the tfsi are either a exchange/replacement or new units such as apr, or you can just buy a uprated kit such as autotech which are basically beefed up internals fitting to your standard housing... well thing is i paid for a apr fuel pump and after looking a notice i still have the standard pump and who knows if the internals have been changed but not only that... ive been ripped off!!

thanks for looking:keule:
 
What are your concerns or what are you unsure of with removing the pump? Relieving the pressure is quite simple, there is a small black cap which has a nipple type setup underneath it, if you remove the cap and then carefuly unscrew the brass nipple you can release any pressure. I doubt there will be too much if you've not been running the car. Also have some rags to hand to catch/mop up the petrol, you don't get a lot of spillage but there will be a little. As you undo the remaining connections each will release a small amount of pressure and fuel.

I think externally the APR pump will look the same although it may have an APR seal on it. As you've already paid the big money for the APR pump then I don't really think Autotech or KMD are a consideration.
 
thanks stu,

yeah pretty much my concerns are relieving the pressure in the fuel system, i also read i post i believe was yours on the fortitude forum which says you need to have cyl1 at TDC for easier removal/refitting, now this is what im totally unsure of if im honest... other thing is that i have paid the big money for the apr pump, which i believe isnt an apr pump but my original pump with the conversion kit on the internals...

well thats what i think anyhows

thanks
 
Difficult to say about the pump tbh. Physically from the outside it will look the same unless APR mark them -

http://www.goapr.com/Audi/products/fsi_fuel_pump.html#

Looking at this pic on the JKM website it seems they put a label on them -

http://www.jkm.org.uk/performance/tfsipumps.htm

I always like to put the car on TDC but many people say it's not necessary however the FSi manual I have says it is. It's a case of edging open the cambelt top cover and looking for the timing marks.

20FSiCylinder1TDC.jpg
 
exactly my point stu, i have no marking or label on the pump to say otherwise..

now nex question is how do i get the crankshaft to that position

sorry for the may questions it may seem

thanks in advance
 
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