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Thread: Help - P3103 V157 - Motor Intake Manifold Flap - EGR Valve...How do i solve?

  1. #81
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    silly question but when my engine is switched of valve is open is this correct ?

    also i take it if you rev the engine the valve should move ?

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  3. #82
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    Closed I think - I think it works in conjunction with the throttle body so when you press the accelorator, the valve will open and exhaust gases can then circulate.

    when revving, you open the throttle so yes

  4. #83
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    If we're talking about the intake manifold flap, then it should be fully closed when the engine is off and fully open when the ignition is on.

    Its only purpose is to stop air getting to the engine when you turn the ignition off so that the engine stops.

    A diesel engine doesn't have a "throttle" like a petrol engine. The intake pipe is always fully open when the engine is running and the engine speed is adjusted solely by adjusting the amount of fuel injected.

    So I don;t believe that the intake manifold flap should move when the throttle moves (unlike a petrol car..)
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    Thanks for the help from everyone in this thread for helping me diagnose this same problem for me. Thought I'd take a few pics for anybody else that gets this problem and needs pointing in the right direction.

    The error fault codes from vagcom:

    19558 - Motor for Intake Manifold Flap (V157): No Signal
    19557 - Motor for Intake Manifold Flap (V157): Open or Short to Ground
    17075 - Fan 1 Control Circuit: Short to GND



    This is the Inlet Manifold Flap





    The link to Euro Car Parts for the replacement part:

    http://www.eurocarparts.com/ecp/c/Au...b7211be4fc81e9

    I've put all mine back together, and it's running as it was. Going to order that new Pierburg part in a few minutes and I'm sure that'll solve the Engine Management Light being on.

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    I'd just like to point out that ordering the Pierburg replacement online only costs 186.25 with free delivery. Perhaps the cheapest yet?

    (Audi quoted me 245.19 for a original part)

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    Euro Parts Part Number...


    In the flesh...


    Stamped part number 038 128 063 M (also look how shiney it is!)


    Fitted



    Overall fitting wasn't too bad, I dropped the 5mm allen key twice which wasn't too enjoyable to retrieve, the pipe was a pain in the arse to squeeze into the new throttle body. Still got to get the faults erased tomorrow and I'll update if the Engine Management light stays on tomorrow, hopefully not!


    I imagine if this job was done at an Audi Garage, you'd be looking way upwards of 400 all in. So for 185 I can't complain all that much. Happy days. Thanks to everyone again for their previous info.

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    Quote Originally Posted by kaz219 View Post
    ...You used a RED wire for a NEGATIVE terminal connection???



    Tsk tsk!

    Other than that... nice write up!

  9. #88
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scopse View Post
    I imagine if this job was done at an Audi Garage, you'd be looking way upwards of 400 all in. So for 185 I can't complain all that much. Happy days. Thanks to everyone again for their previous info.
    That's a good estimate - I was quoted 454 this morning for what I believe is the same issue. The part was 245.19 as Scopse said which effectively confirms it!
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  10. #89
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    Quote Originally Posted by VWAddict View Post
    ...You used a RED wire for a NEGATIVE terminal connection???



    Tsk tsk!

    Other than that... nice write up!
    It was temporary!!!! lol

    I wired in my head unit and it didnt work so i thought it was a dodgy earth so i had that wire lying about from a previous install so used that.

    Then i found out my car ran a canbus system which means i needed to find a switched power infeed from somewhere else and was too lazy to take it out :D

    It was when i first bought the car so didnt know much about it :D
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  11. #90
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    me too!



    Looks like petrol engines not immume either! 156+Vat for new one from EuroCarParts. Car might be 6 years old but it only has 25K on it!

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  12. #91
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    Well i hadn't had any fault codes, but often have a roug idle, so i decided to clean out the same parts as you Scopse, but mine weren't anywhere near as clogged as yours. I let them soak in soapy water first then jet washed them and they came out lovely and clean. The part i didn't clean however was the bigger steel part (not sure what its called, but its got '388' engraved on it) that you see in the picture below. Is it worth giving this a clean too?

    And also, can anyone tell me where the DMF is?


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  13. #92
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    DMf is beteen the gearbox and engine - you have to drop the gearbox and take off the clutch then you'll see it!
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  14. #93
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    Well I cleaned the whole lot when I did the turbo & intake system etc with new gaskets seals everywhere, so removed the manifold & the flap & have to say the flap wasnt that bad as some here.

    Kaz was those images before turbo went as thats a shed load of crap in the flap & the intake manifold must be horrific tbh as my manifold had nice layer of crap & that was without hardly any crap on the flap at all so god knows how bad yours is, but now mines shiny inside & out, so clean as new part.

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  15. #94
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    Hi everyone, i have signed up from 'uk-mkivs.net' as the 'old dear' has a few problems with her 2004 2.0TDi (140) A3.

    I ran a VagCom scan and amongst the faults these came up:


    18354 - Control Module 1 for Coolant Fan: Defective

    19559 - Motor for Intake Manifold Flap (V157): Malfunction

    01177 - Engine Control Unit

    01320 - Control Module for Climatronic (J255)


    As I have a 1.8T and have only ever owned petrols I have no idea about diesel engines, but luckily found this thread!

    After having a glance through it seems that a new IMF is required (and seals...and fuses!) but would I need to replace the EGR too...?

    Thank you all so much in advance for your help,

    Luke

  16. #95
    NHN
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    Possibly not IMF, clear all faults, test car then check for faults then post them ALL again, if is IMF then maybe no need for egr.

    I have had the fan fault before turbo blew as has someone else, any loss of power as in limp mode?

    Could be old sticking vanes issue.

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  17. #96
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    Hi NHN, thanks for the reply.
    The car has not gone into limp mode at any point, but sometimes the (yellow) engine light comes up on the dash. However I last cleared it about 2 months ago, and it has not returned since, although the scan yesterday found the abouve results.

    Luke

  18. #97
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    Oh, may be worth noting that when the car is turned off it does NOT do so nice and smoothly, rather very 'juddery'...thats what initially lead me to believe that it was the EGR,

    Thanks again,

    Luke

  19. #98
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    The force is with you my son, sorry couldnt help it, lol.

    Ok back on cue, please clear any errors on car & test again & report back cause some are intermittant tbh on vag cars & usually clear & dont come back for ages, where as some will be back almost instantly mate.

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  20. #99
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    Okay, I have cleared the faults and these are the ones that have returned:


    Address 01: Engine Labels: 03G-906-016-BKD.lbl
    Part No SW: 03G 906 016 G HW: 028 101 136 4
    Component: R4 2,0L EDC G000SG 5705
    Revision: 12345678 Serial number: AUX7Z0D1FNG0KD
    Coding: 0000072
    Shop #: WSC 06435 000 00000

    2 Faults Found:
    18354 - Control Module 1 for Coolant Fan: Defective
    P1946 - 000 - - - Intermittent
    Freeze Frame:
    RPM: 0 /min
    Torque: 140.0 Nm
    Speed: 0.0 km/h
    Load: 0.0 %
    Voltage: 11.78 V
    Bin. Bits: 00101100
    Temperature: 8.1C
    Duty Cycle: 9.6 %

    17057 - Cylinder 3 Glow Plug Circuit (Q12): Electrical Fault
    P0673 - 000 - -
    Freeze Frame:
    RPM: 0 /min
    Torque: 164.0 Nm
    Speed: 0.0 km/h
    Load: 0.0 %
    Voltage: 11.32 V
    Bin. Bits: 00101100
    Temperature: 6.3C
    Bin. Bits: 00110000

    Readiness: 0 0 0 0 0


    Quite odd really, as the car sounds like its dying when you switch the engine off (always has done since it has been owned for the past year) of which led me to believe it was the EGR...?
    However the glow plug fault is a recent one, and the car also recently does not like being re-starting after being run for a bit, although it is fine from cold.

    Very lost/confused now

  21. #100
    NHN
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    Ok 1st thing is, swap the glowplugs round & see if fault follows to other cylinder, if does then its glowplug needed, if stays on cylinder 3 then its the loom probably, but guessings its the plug tbh mate.

    Coolant fan issue is worrying for me as thats the error I got when the vanes were sticking on my turbo, but you havnt lost any power as in limp modes as yet, I'd be careful & do the glowplug 1st then retest mate, 1 thing at a time as could be related as in shorting out electrically.

    Cars sometimes do some strange things to other systems that are completely irrelevant to eachother.

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  22. #101
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    guys and girls my prob is very similar and could do with a few opinions too here goes
    Hi all i have an a4 turbo diesel 2004 and i ran it low on diesel last week and now when driving sometime s it happens its like the engine shuts down or loses power kinda shudder s revs drop if i accelarate hard a puff of black smoke out the exhaust and away it goes perfect sometimes this can happen every min for a bit other times like on a motorway it never happens so first i think i did was added injector cleaner to the diesel still no good so took to local garage today changed fuel filter and checked for errors it gave me p3105 intermittent and p 19561
    The code 19561 - Valve for Intake Manifold Flap (N239): Open or Short to Ground
    The code P3105 - Intermittent

    so any suggestions what to do next all help appreciated

  23. #102
    NHN
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    Check your wiring to the IMF as open/short would designate at 1st glance a wiring issue, check its all plugged in properly.

    When you say low do you mean you ran it on vapour or just to the redline as such?

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  24. #103
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    just red line it was showing 40 miles left and then it started shuddering going up a hill as if it was out of diesel so drove it less then a 1/4 of a mile and filled it up but i think the shuddering was the start of the imf probs not a low diesel prob

  25. #104
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    Did you check wiring mate?

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  26. #105
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    Quote Originally Posted by vinnyl View Post
    just red line it was showing 40 miles left and then it started shuddering going up a hill as if it was out of diesel so drove it less then a 1/4 of a mile and filled it up but i think the shuddering was the start of the imf probs not a low diesel prob
    just take the thick blck pipe off and push the butterfly fla in and out.

    If it doesnt move - its fudged.

    if i moves but after a few attempts it goes hard and seems like its stcking - its fudged. Cog teeth have been wrecked!

    Dont you need to bleed the system if you run out of diesel?
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  27. #106
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scopse View Post
    Thanks for the help from everyone in this thread

    I've put all mine back together, and it's running as it was. Going to order that new Pierburg part in a few minutes and I'm sure that'll solve the Engine Management Light being on.

    Hey guys,

    bit of a late reply, but after sorting it all out myself everything has been perfect, engine shuts down smooth now instead of juddering. The engine management light went off straight after a run and hasnt come back on since. Everythings is as it should be! Anyone else just follow the tutorial it really is a quick an easy fix.

    All thanks to this thread.

    Cheers guys!

  28. #107
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    Quote Originally Posted by Khufu View Post


    Looks like petrol engines not immume either! 156+Vat for new one from EuroCarParts. Car might be 6 years old but it only has 25K on it!


    I just looked inside my egr valve today (A3 2.0 FSI 2004) and the picture is identical to yours with the same cog teeth snapped off!

    http://i1001.photobucket.com/albums/...001jpgegr2.jpg

    Audi want about 300 to replace it,however the car runs fine the way it is with no apparent problems,although i do get a 17811 fault code (egr flow deviation) and the yellow engine management light.
    Last edited by johnnya3; 24th February 2010 at 23:18.

  29. #108
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    hi guys, new to the site, but just browsing through this thread and i have had similar problems with the emissions light coming on, have sent it back to the dealers and had the imf changed and just checked and it is the new revised part, the emissions light had gone but on my way home tonight, its raised its ugly head again, so has anyone got any ideas to what the problem would be this time.

  30. #109
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    Welcome to the site, 1st thing I'd do is get a scan for any error codes thrown up.

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  31. #110
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    ill have to take it down to the garage and get them to scan it for me as i dont have the software to do the checks meself, hopefully get it down there tomorrow if i finish work early.

  32. #111
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    Quote Originally Posted by johnnya3 View Post
    I just looked inside my egr valve today (A3 2.0 FSI 2004) and the picture is identical to yours with the same cog teeth snapped off!

    http://i1001.photobucket.com/albums/...001jpgegr2.jpg

    Audi want about 300 to replace it,however the car runs fine the way it is with no apparent problems,although i do get a 17811 fault code (egr flow deviation) and the yellow engine management light.
    I have this same Problem...I've been driving with this problem for like 5 weeks with no other problems.....Does anybody know if this will lead to other big problems if I don't Fix it?

  33. #112
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    Quote Originally Posted by digzz View Post
    I have this same Problem...I've been driving with this problem for like 5 weeks with no other problems.....Does anybody know if this will lead to other big problems if I don't Fix it?
    I have been driving with the egr problem for almost a year now but with no problems with performance or fuel consumption etc.

    I would like to fit a new egr valve myself but apparently it has to be adapted to the ECU in order to work properly.

    Things were much simpler on my austin metro!

  34. #113
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    Quote Originally Posted by johnnya3 View Post
    I have been driving with the egr problem for almost a year now but with no problems with performance or fuel consumption etc.

    I would like to fit a new egr valve myself but apparently it has to be adapted to the ECU in order to work properly.

    Things were much simpler on my austin metro!
    Is your Engine Light On All the Time?

  35. #114
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    hi guys quick update, just had my car checked and plugged in at the garage and found that the air flow sensor is the problem this time, so got a replacement part being fitted tomorrow, cross fingers this will be the end of it.

  36. #115
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    Quote Originally Posted by digzz View Post
    Is your Engine Light On All the Time?
    Yes,the yellow emissions warning light is on all the time.

    I have one of those stand alone code readers which i plug in every so often,but still just the one fault code shows up (17811 egr flow deviation)
    I can clear the code off which turns off the yellow warning light but the light comes back on after about 12 miles of driving.

  37. #116
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    Quote Originally Posted by carmad12 View Post
    hi guys, new to the site, but just browsing through this thread and i have had similar problems with the emissions light coming on, have sent it back to the dealers and had the imf changed and just checked and it is the new revised part, the emissions light had gone but on my way home tonight, its raised its ugly head again, so has anyone got any ideas to what the problem would be this time.
    Did they replace the blown fuse after changing the IMF? If that's still blown your engine management light will still be coming on.

  38. #117
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    Quote Originally Posted by digzz View Post
    I have this same Problem...I've been driving with this problem for like 5 weeks with no other problems.....Does anybody know if this will lead to other big problems if I don't Fix it?
    The worst case scenario is that the flap in the IMF can turn 90 degrees so effectively almost shutting off the turbos pressured supply of air to the inlet manifold, if your building up excessive pressure behind the turbo it'll just basically cause premature wear on the turbine shaft and eventually kill it, if the flap is jammed open then it should be okay, although all that dirt and gunk built up around the inlet manifold probably isn't doing your engine any good either. You'll probably notice that the engine judders to a stop when turning it off because it can't kill the air fuel supply into the engine properly.

    If you buy the part from EuroCarParts it'll cost 160 and it's literally 3 x 6mm allen key bolts and replace the blown fuse as shown previously in the tutorial on this thread. One of the easiest jobs I've ever done on a car and save yourself money from Audi.

  39. #118
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    Quote Originally Posted by johnnya3 View Post
    I have been driving with the egr problem for almost a year now but with no problems with performance or fuel consumption etc.

    I would like to fit a new egr valve myself but apparently it has to be adapted to the ECU in order to work properly.

    Things were much simpler on my austin metro!
    You can fit the EGR valve yourself like many other people on here have, nobodys ever mentioned of adapting the new EGR to your ECU because it doesn't need doing.

    Again, leaving the problem isn't without it's problems.

  40. #119
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    I too read that a new EGR needs adapted but my petrol one didnt need anything done and I fitted mine myself
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  41. #120
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    Alright guys, i've posted my problem that I have over at uk-mkiv's forum but no luck as of yet. Please forgive me if i've hijacked this thread in any shape or form.

    I've got a 05 plate Mk5 Golf, TDi 140bhp, remapped to 175bhp.

    Over the past year or so I've had a few problems with the car, with the engine light on. About 8 mths ago I had a problem with the EGR which was throwing up the code:

    19559 motor for intake manifold flap v157 malfunction P3103.

    Ever since the "Emissions workshop" message and the engine light has been on, i've noticed a considerable drop in power from the car. I got the EGR valve replaced around 2 months ago and was hoping that this would fix it but the mechanic told me that due to the fact that I had ran it so long without replacing the EGR, i now need a throttle body for it. The engine light still won't go off. Is this possible as i don't wanna get ripped off.

    The car also goes into limp mode on the motorway if I give it a good bashing especially uphill. Bloody struggles to overtake 18 wheelers when in limp mode.

    Also the mechanic told me there's a fan fault. The fan's not letting my engine warm up. Not a big problem in the summer but can cause burnout to the engine in the winter. Couple hundred quid for 2 fans ive been told.


    I decided to get my car scanned by vag-com yesterday and here's what it threw up.

    -------------------------------------------------------------------------------
    Address 01: Engine Labels: 03G-906-016-BKD.lbl
    Part No SW: 03G 906 016 FM HW: 028 101 190 3 begin_of_the_skype_highlighting 028 101 190 3 end_of_the_skype_highlighting 028 101 190 3 begin_of_the_skype_highlighting 028 101 190 3 end_of_the_skype_highlighting
    Component: R4 2,0L EDC 0000SG 6179
    Revision: 12345678 Serial number: VWZ7Z0D1261505
    Coding: 0000072
    Shop #: WSC 66565 257 00032

    4 Faults Found:
    19558 - Motor for Intake Manifold Flap (V157): No Signal
    P3102 - 000 - -
    Freeze Frame:
    RPM: 0 /min
    Torque: 0.0 Nm
    Speed: 0.0 km/h
    Load: 0.0 %
    Voltage: 12.31 V
    Bin. Bits: 00000100
    Torque: 0.0 Nm
    Torque: 354.0 Nm

    19557 - Motor for Intake Manifold Flap (V157): Open or Short to Ground
    P3101 - 000 - -
    Freeze Frame:
    RPM: 0 /min
    Torque: 0.0 Nm
    Speed: 0.0 km/h
    Load: 0.0 %
    Voltage: 12.31 V
    Bin. Bits: 00000100
    Torque: 0.0 Nm
    Torque: 354.0 Nm

    17075 - Fan 1 Control Circuit: Short to GND
    P0691 - 000 - -
    Freeze Frame:
    RPM: 0 /min
    Torque: 0.0 Nm
    Speed: 0.0 km/h
    Load: 0.0 %
    Voltage: 12.31 V
    Bin. Bits: 00000100
    Temperature: 81.9C
    Duty Cycle: 9.6 %

    16618 - Boost Pressure Regulation: Limit Exceeded (Overboost Condition)
    P0234 - 000 - -
    Freeze Frame:
    RPM: 2268 /min
    Torque: 148.0 Nm
    Speed: 119.0 km/h
    Load: 32.2 %
    Voltage: 13.98 V
    Bin. Bits: 11000000
    Absolute Pres.: 1744.2 mbar
    Absolute Pres.: 2193.0 mbar

    Readiness: 1 2 0 0 0


    I'm hoping someone can help - and if the symptoms i've had with the car match the faults found on the log above, and if theres any cost-saving solution to the problems?

    After reading about i looked at the F8 fuse and it was blown. I have replaced it in the meantime but haven't cleared the codes yet as i have had no access to vagcom.

    I'd appreciate any help on the above and to the following questions: The error code which was flagging up before i got the EGR replaced...did the mechanic diagnose it correctly and was replacing the EGR valve the right thing to do? If so, then why am I having further problems and why is he telling me to replace the IMF? Didn't the error code sugges that it was the IMF that should have been replaced? I've had so many problems lately with rogue idles, limp modes and 'bumpy' accelerations, and i'm just looking to get this sorted once and for all and finally get the true power of my engine back! Sorry for the rant!!

    Appreciate any help.
    Last edited by 5aq1b; 27th May 2010 at 21:43.

 

 
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