EM TuningAH Fabrications
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  1. #1
    madalex's Avatar
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    Running your S3 in , what u did ?

    im intested in knowing what diffrent running in procedures u all did ,,,,,,,,,,,

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  3. #2
    madalex's Avatar
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    some tunners belive there is no need for gentle running in as ecu's map to how the car is driven , jus make sure ur engine is warm , is this correct ?

  4. #3
    aiculedtzu's Avatar
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    I've started a similar topic before my S3 arrived. Take a look here: What's the best way to break-in a 2.0 TFSI ?

    I used the "gentle" running in method and my car doesn't use any oil between servicing.
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  5. #4
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    A lot of people will disagree with me, but i've alway thrashed (when they're warm) my new cars, from the day I get them. Never had a problem. My mate, who works as an engineer for Honda, does the same with all his cars, including a new Golf GTi. He did a compression test on the Golf, which had been driven at high revs since new, and compared it to his mate's, who'd followed a strict running in process. My friend's came out with a better reading, and it's very slightly faster. Coincidence? Maybe.

  6. #5
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    Mine's an ex-demo so I'm sure it's not had an easy early life .

    Having said that since I've had it (4 months), only had to top up the oil once and hasn't felt lumpy, sluggish so assuming all's OK under the bonnet .

    Prob best bit of advice to take would be to let warm up (unless you like the look of blue smoke) before giving it big beans!

    -Sal-
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  7. #6
    madalex's Avatar
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    sounds good , will make sure its warm and drive as normal (fastt)

  8. #7
    jamiekip
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    I adopted a bit of a mixture to be honest.
    First couple of runs was a 550 mile round trip on the motorways and kept it below 4000rpm. At the end of that run, when all fluids we're well and truly warm I took the engine to near enough the redline (I'm told it's good to load the engine a few times when new). I continued doing this until I passed 1000 miles and then didn't really worry about it anymore.

    Mine hasn't used a drop of oil, hasn't missed a beat and performed brilliantly on Mallory Park!!!

    When I spoke to the deler about running in, they we're actually saying the engine doesn't really need running in, it's everything else, bedding in brakes, transmission, clutch, oil/fuelpumps etc.

    I don't thin it does any harm to give it a gentle introduction in life until your sure everything is in check.

    They are tight those engines though - mine had terrible fuel economy when I first got it, after 2500 miles it's started to free up big time.... and feel quicker!!!

  9. #8
    klauster's Avatar
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    well i just drove it normally, but didnt rag the t*ts off it for the first 500miles. No issues, no oil replaced *touch wood

    Car now has 10+k on it and will be serviced soon

  10. #9
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    I took it easy (sub 4500 rpm for first 1000 miles) - didnt take long less than one week :D and always just make sure its warm.
    Nothing to see here: Woofdoggy , move along please........

  11. #10
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    There's a school of thought that says it's very important to load the engine during the first couple of hundred miles. Obviously wait until the engine is fully warmed through (check oil temp, not just water temp) but thereafter make sure you put some load on it, both by hard acceleration and by heavy engine braking.

    The cylinders have a honing pattern on their surfaces which aids the sealing of the piston rings and loading the engine ensures that sufficient pressure is applied to properly seal the rings against the cylinder walls. Once the honing pattern is worn off (couple of hundred miles) then no further loading will help seal the rings further.

    If the rings aren't sealed properly you'll get blow-by for the rest of the car's life which will slightly reduce power and increase oil consumption, at least the theory goes.
    Daytona Grey Audi A3 2.0TDI 150 S-Line with Tech Pack, Comfort Pack, Interior Light Pack, Alcantara/Leather seats, B&O sound, DAB radio, Folding/dimming mirrors

  12. #11
    madalex's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vertigo1
    There's a school of thought that says it's very important to load the engine during the first couple of hundred miles. Obviously wait until the engine is fully warmed through (check oil temp, not just water temp) but thereafter make sure you put some load on it, both by hard acceleration and by heavy engine braking.

    The cylinders have a honing pattern on their surfaces which aids the sealing of the piston rings and loading the engine ensures that sufficient pressure is applied to properly seal the rings against the cylinder walls. Once the honing pattern is worn off (couple of hundred miles) then no further loading will help seal the rings further.

    If the rings aren't sealed properly you'll get blow-by for the rest of the car's life which will slightly reduce power and increase oil consumption, at least the theory goes.


    this sounds fair , and will b more enjoyable

  13. #12
    JamS3's Avatar
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    Waited until it was warm and lots of mixed driving with no engine speed past 5000rpm until 1k miles.

    Give it a thrash up to 5k in 3rd and 4th gears a few times but never revved past 5k.

    I have 5.5k miles on the car now and it has not used a drop of oil since new (I got it with 27 miles on).
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  14. #13
    prt57's Avatar
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    I used the gentle approach and to date I have not added any oil to my S3. (Not more than 3.5K for the first 500 miles and not more than 4k for the run up to 1000 miles) Gradually upped it after that.)
    What is surprising is how long it takes for the oil to warm up. Much longer than the water.
    At what oil temp do you chaps start giving your motor the beans?
    I enjoyed building up the power as it gave a great sense of anticipation of what was to come.
    It certainly loosened up as the miles increased.
    I used the same technique with my 1998 GTI 1.8T and that still does not use oil. Last week we did 750 miles in the GTI and no movement on the dipstick by the end.

    prt

  15. #14
    markwiggy's Avatar
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    I drove mine under 4000rpm for the first 500 miles apart from the odd blast up to 5k, and then over the next 500 varied the revs as it says in the manual. I did load the engine to seal the pistons as described by Vertigo only the first time I drove it though.All seems ok, has used a very small amount of oil but have found in the past when they are new they will. Had a Civic type R which drank a litre in the first 600 miles, but never used a drop after. Used the same method on my 20TQ and that never used a drop of oil, i think if a car is going to use oil no matter what you do it will,
    You will find lots of different opinions, but just do what suits you.

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  16. #15
    Savage

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    Quote Originally Posted by Vertigo1
    There's a school of thought that says it's very important to load the engine during the first couple of hundred miles. Obviously wait until the engine is fully warmed through (check oil temp, not just water temp) but thereafter make sure you put some load on it, both by hard acceleration and by heavy engine braking.

    The cylinders have a honing pattern on their surfaces which aids the sealing of the piston rings and loading the engine ensures that sufficient pressure is applied to properly seal the rings against the cylinder walls. Once the honing pattern is worn off (couple of hundred miles) then no further loading will help seal the rings further.

    If the rings aren't sealed properly you'll get blow-by for the rest of the car's life which will slightly reduce power and increase oil consumption, at least the theory goes.
    This is exactly what I was about to post. Having rebuilt many of my own Vxl engines I've found it's the load on the engine that's key. Bed the rings in properly and blow by will be minimal. Varying the load on the engine I've found to be crucial plus frequent oil changes while bedding in.
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  17. #16
    JamS3's Avatar
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    I normally wait until around 50oC for the engine oil temp before giving it a bit of a rev!

    Had a Golf VR6 and this had a engine oil temp sensor on the dash and it didn't register until 50oC as this was when VW deemed it ok to increase the engine speed so used this method since then!
    NOW - Audi S3 Facelift - Sprint Blue, RNS-E Sat Nav, SDS, Bluetooth Phone Prep, Bose, Cruise, Buckets, FBMFSW, Adaptive Lights, Int Light Pack, Tyre Pressure Monitor, Piano Black Inserts, Through Load, Auto Dim RV Mirror/Wing, Auto Wipers/Lights, Folding Door Mirrors, Heated Seats, Ipod Dock, Front Arm Rest, Rear/Front Parking Sensors, 1st Aid Kit, Rear Arm Rest, H + R Springs, Front 15mm Spacers, Rear 10mm Spacers.

  18. #17
    S3RVA

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    Dealers told me I didnt have to run it in as audi benchtest the engines before insertion so they are run in already. So on day 2 I was doing 145 against a maserati

  19. #18
    siu00adg's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by silverlogic
    Dealers told me I didnt have to run it in as audi benchtest the engines before insertion so they are run in already. So on day 2 I was doing 145 against a maserati
    what massa? I was thinking about getting a 3200GT V8 twin turbo mmmm , or a TVR T350c, but saw sense and went for the S3!

 

 

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