Audi A3 3.2 v6 cut out

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a33.2josh

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Hi guys I have a 3.2v6 A3 on a 54 plate with 115k on the clock owned the car for around 3-4 months, not had any issues with it up until today was running sweet as, basically driving to work I noticed a small light come on the dash a triangle with a arrow around it in yellow, this came on at 35mph then when I came to some lights to stop obvs put the clutch in and she just cut out, on turn of the key the lights still there and it fired straight up, this continued at every set of lights, then when I came to park up it just about managed to idle on its own and I turned it off via the key! Any help in direction would be awesome here guys, I'm based in York/Leeds if anyone has a vagcom and could help would be much appreciated! Just hope I can get home tonight! After leaving it for 5 mins at work it fired up and idled abit bouncy and light is still there... Confused.. Cheers again guys josh
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1397936247348564ImageUploadedByTapatalk1397936128841166
 
Sorry mate what's the MAF? Mass airflow? I did look at changing air filter on Wednesday but it had pipercross fitted so put it all back together and left it! Ran fine and fault appeared today as described.
 
a33.2josh said:
Sorry mate what's the MAF? Mass airflow? I did look at changing air filter on Wednesday but it had pipercross fitted so put it all back together and left it! Ran fine and fault appeared today as described.
Click to expand...

Yeah that's what the maf is unplug it and try and run it if your filter is an oiled filter it can cause your maf more hassle also it could be your throttle body as it could be sticky with gunk.
 
Sound mate ill try that tonight, will the light need resetting somehow or will it clear itself?
 
Clean the throttle body. If it's dirty the car might idle poorly and when driven struggle to drop to issue without cutting out, if this happens pull over, turn the car off but the ignition on for about 15 mins, the throttle body will recalibrate and the car will run fine for another few hundred miles before repeating the fault unless you clean the throttle body, piece of cake to do. Throttle Body clean guide.... Easy method - Performance and Technical - R32OC | VW Golf R32, Golf R and other .:R Vehicle Owners Club.
 
Mine did the same problem as yours and it was the throttle body despite being told by the aa and 2 garages it was the maf sensor. Cleaning the throttle body is a lot cheaper to do
 
Awesome mate appreciate all info, will have a look at it in morning. Thanks again, will report back to people for future ref, do I need a vag-com to reset the triangle light
 
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1397952017457786

So started up ok after work, first junction when I dumped the clutch the revs dropped to about 400rpm idle then picked up to 600rpm after a couple of seconds. Light on dash is still there, what does that light show usually?
 
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1397953315250436
Right so just got in, and she's idling fine again. Could this be temperature related this fault? Obviously 1in the morning is cooler than this evening at 8.15 ish, so thinking this could have some affect? Cheers people
 
Sounds like same problem I had, if you can get it scanned I bet it shows an error code relating to low voltage detected at the Maf. It didn't seam to related to anything as it would happen completely random.
I tried all of the above, I would be fine for a month or 2 then go again. I brought myself a simple obd2 scanner off the bay and found that as soon as it happened I'd clear the fault then 60secs later it came back, reset one more time then it was fine for a few months.
In the end I cleaned up all the earth points as it seamed to be electrical, it hasn't happened again a year later, touch wood!
I still carry the scanner with me just in case!!!

The code will be something like p0102. Low signal or voltage.
 
Quick question then if its the MAF playing up how do I sort it? Cheap or pricey fix? Cheers
 
audi upgrades
Just been out to her and the lights on the dash have gone idled up when cold then revs dropped off to normal, confused :/
 
People with the same problem have reported that in the morning the fault had cleared its self, only to reappear at random sometime later.
 
So safe to say its MAF then guys? Ill wait for it to re-occur and see if it runs better with the MAF disconnected
 
a33.2josh said:
So safe to say its MAF then guys? Ill wait for it to re-occur and see if it runs better with the MAF disconnected
Click to expand...

If you don't have a means of scanning it the only thing you can do is wait and try the maf meantime I would clean the throttle body .
 
I have got a friend that works at a garage and they have a scanner said I can pop in so may do that
 
Hi been having same problem with my 3.2 quattro , would randomly cut out at steep down hill junction at local town ,then after a few days would clear and not return for a month or so then cut out again at same downhill junction.give it a good blast and problem would cure itself for rest of journey and then re appear when cold next day, took it to local garage but no real problem showed up except the good old air mass one , got to thinking on way back has something to do with ESP as light came on with problem so checked tyre pressures and both fronts were low ,re inflated them up to 38psi and problem seems to be cured ,thinking about it that would explain why the problem came and went (when i checked tyre pressure and we had very slow puncture on front for a while after car was fine until pressure dropped and problem re appeared ) and why for periods there was no problem then it would start intermittantly on the steep down hill junction ( braking putting more weight on front wheels = reduced rolling radius of front wheels)compounded by reduced tyre pressure ,more wear on front than back , causing esp to sense possible wheel slip whence it would cut a cylinder for traction correction resulting in lumpy tick over and stall
Would also explain why giving it a good blast would fix problem as driving hard makes the tyres warm up especially the front ones and re inflate above critical pressure)
This circumstance can be caused by different makes of tyre front to back but not in my case as have pirelli all round although front are much more worn
Would also explain why the fault does not show as as far as car is concerned it is doing what it is meant to .
fingers crossed and will keep you up to date on result
 
It's the MAF sensor. You probably don't need a new one, they do respond to cleaning. It's a sensitive item, so just go and buy the correct cleaner from an auto shop, remove the intake duct and spray it through. Leave it to dry, (while it's drying, remove the throttle body and clean that as well).
I used the same spray cleaner for both but you will need to use a bit of kitchen roll to clean around the butterfly. Don't move it if you can avoid it when it is off the car.
A VCDS scan will be showing this...
Screen 002

The light on your dash will go out on it's own but, these fault codes will need to be cleared with VCDS.
The difference to the running of the car will be night and day, total cost without buying VCDS is about £5.00 - 7.00. Time to do it, around an hour if you've not done it before. (By the way, panel filters which use oil are probably the root of it all).
I have never had the same problem since doing this.

:salute:
 
Jake 61 said:
It's the MAF sensor. You probably don't need a new one, they do respond to cleaning. It's a sensitive item, so just go and buy the correct cleaner from an auto shop, remove the intake duct and spray it through. Leave it to dry, (while it's drying, remove the throttle body and clean that as well).
I used the same spray cleaner for both but you will need to use a bit of kitchen roll to clean around the butterfly. Don't move it if you can avoid it when it is off the car.
A VCDS scan will be showing this...
View attachment 64518
The light on your dash will go out on it's own but, these fault codes will need to be cleared with VCDS.
The difference to the running of the car will be night and day, total cost without buying VCDS is about £5.00 - 7.00. Time to do it, around an hour if you've not done it before. (By the way, panel filters which use oil are probably the root of it all).
I have never had the same problem since doing this.

:salute:
Click to expand...
Thanks for that will try it next time the problem rears it,s head
 
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I had the exact same issue. A chap local to me with VCDS came over and scanned it, couple of errors including the MAF one. We cleared them and it was okay. Soon after I took it to the local dealer, first off for the coil pack recall but also the ecu update - have a quick search, the SVM code is mentioned in various threads. That was about 2 1/2 years ago and it's been perfect ever since :sunglasses:
 
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