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  1. #1
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    Doing first DIY oil change. WOOOOOOAH!

    So im going to do my first ever oil change! WOOOOAHHHH.
    Im sure this is a standard thing to most but im ready for it!

    Iv watched this video, and im just wondering if theres any tips or tricks to doing this smoothy or to watch out for.
    iv got a socket set and torx so all should be good!

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Pp6yFmzwhEU

    Thanks guys.
    05, A3 8P 2.0TFSI Quattro

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  3. #2
    MrLapou's Avatar
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    Video covers it all.
    Have loads newspapers down to capture any spills.
    Ensure oil is warm.
    Only nip up the sump plug. New copper washer not needed.

  4. #3
    Tom5190's Avatar
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    Just done mine tonight after work, takes all of 15 min's really.

    The only thing that he doesn't mention is that you need to check the final oil level when the car is on the ground not with the front raised. Do as it states stick 4.5 L in, run the car then top up when the car is on the floor.

  5. #4
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    so i should run the car to what temp before emptying? a normal 90?
    05, A3 8P 2.0TFSI Quattro

  6. #5
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    If you are using a multi-viscosity oil, such as 10W40 for example, this indicates that the oil is more liquid at cold temperatures than it would be at the normal engine temperature of 90. I believe that it is then better to drain the old oil when it is cold, rather then when it is hot. Anyway, that is what I do. Some folk use a flushing (low viscosity) oil to clean out the engine before putting in the new. Have not tried this so far. Good luck.
    French A3 Sportback 2006, 2.0L 140 TDI, DSG, RSN-E, Ambient lighting, Auto-lights/wipers, Reverse assist, Dolphin Grey, 17" wheels, Leather seats, Cruise control, Roof bars.

  7. #6
    wuta3's Avatar
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    Also, if you are changing oil filter, prepare for tons of oil to pour out even though you drained the sump.
    ​​Programmer/Web Developer, Headphone/Amp Geek
    06 SLine Special Edition Phantom Black 2.0T FSI Quattro A3
    Done: P-Flo, RevD, Sachs Organic, Milltek TBE + Res + Sports cat
    Wanted/Next:Intercooler, HPFP, Remap

  8. #7
    Tom5190's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Geraldy212 View Post
    If you are using a multi-viscosity oil, such as 10W40 for example, this indicates that the oil is more liquid at cold temperatures than it would be at the normal engine temperature of 90. I believe that it is then better to drain the old oil when it is cold, rather then when it is hot. Anyway, that is what I do. Some folk use a flushing (low viscosity) oil to clean out the engine before putting in the new. Have not tried this so far. Good luck.
    10w40 means the oil is thickest when cold.

  9. #8
    c_w
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    Definitely change the oil when it's warm, it doesn't flow as easily when cold, although I have done an oil change before with cold oil (on the assumption that as the engine has stood the oil has fully drained to the bottom) but it just didn't drain half as well out of the sump.

  10. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by c_w View Post
    Definitely change the oil when it's warm, it doesn't flow as easily when cold, although I have done an oil change before with cold oil (on the assumption that as the engine has stood the oil has fully drained to the bottom) but it just didn't drain half as well out of the sump.
    Shud i give it a good drive beforehand? or just run on idle?
    05, A3 8P 2.0TFSI Quattro

  11. #10
    MrLapou's Avatar
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    Idle will be just fine. 5 mins. Then leave for a few mins so oil can settle.
    If doing it on a drive or porous surface be sure to cover all areas with plastic sheet or 2 layers newspapers.

 

 

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