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Thread: A3 Rear Light Face-Lift Install (summary of information)

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    A3 Rear Light Face-Lift Install (summary of information)

    With help from the information posted on the forum and on the net, I have just successfully installed 2009+ face-lift rear lights to my 55 plate A3 Sportback.

    Most of this information is already on the forum in various places, but while it's fresh in my mind I've tried to pull everything together in one place, which I hope will save search time for others. I've tried to cover-off the questions I had and those I've seen from others on the various threads - hope it's useful to someone!

    Following the advice of others on the forum, I bought my OE lights new from autoteilemann.de via German e-bay:

    AUDI A3 8P SPORTBACK FACELIFT LED-RÜCKLEUCHTEN NEU OE! | eBay

    I paid circa £190 delivered, and they arrived within 3 days - very efficient service. The price does fluctuate with £/Euro exchange rate, so if you time it well you may even improve on this price slightly. For comparison, I was quoted £170 delivered second-hand from an e-bay dismantler/breaker; and £260 delivered from an Audi Main Dealer. For the additional £20 over the breaker, I prefered to have box fresh and warantied, thus reducing the risk of wasting my time fitting a broken second-hand set.

    Kufatec conversion looms seemed to be the ones of choice on the forum, with some reference to Kuftec being an OE supplier?
    They are available in the UK for £50, though I got mine from Ampire Germany for a similar price. Delivery was again very efficent.

    Facelift LED Rear Lights - Adapter - Audi A3 8PA Sportback-36507

    Codeing was the only other cost, and I paid £30 at a local autoelectrician, though many people on the forum have the kit to program so, if you can find someone local, you can probably get it done much cheaper.

    So, in total, the face-lift cost me £270

    I'm reasonably handy, but no expert, and found the install very straightforward.

    If you haven't removed the rear lights on an A3 before, this video is really worth watching first. While 'simple-when-you-know-how', removing the outer lights can be tricky if you haven't done it before, and there are stories of damaged paint & bodywork while trying. My recommendation on this would be to invest in a proper rubberised plastic trim removing lever, as prying with a metal screwdriver is likely to damage paint work. As you will see from the video, there are 2 "ball-&-socket" securing lugs on the side of the lights and, having undone the plastic securing bolt inside the boot, you then need to gently lever these ball-clips out. This part isn't shown clearly in the video and perhaps make it look slightly easier than it is, but use a trim remover (like the orange tool the guy has in this video) to gently prise the light unit out to the side of the car to release the "ball-&-socket" joint. Once out about 5mm, the ball pops out of the retaining socket, and the light unit is free. This is probably the biggest area of risk to damage the light unit or the bodywork, so take your time on this bit - excessive force shouldn't be needed! As the video shows, when fitting the new lights insert the "ball-&-socket" lugs end first, then manouvre the other end into position, and secure with the long black plastic retaining "nut" from inside.

    Brake Light Change 2006-2013 Audi A3 - 2008 Audi A3 Quattro 3.2L V6

    The Kufatec instruction sheet (link below) was very clear in the removal process for the inner/boot-lid lights. You do need to remove the interior trim panel from inside the boot. Having removed the 4 screws as indicated in the instructions, it is just a case of pulling the panel away from the boot lid to separate it from its retaining lugs. You do need to pull quite firmly to get the panel to release. Similarly, when refitting the panel, having checked that all the lugs and boot-lock suround are aligned, you need to give the panel a reasonable thump with the heal of your hand to re-engage it on it's lugs before securing with the 4 screws (see photos in instruction sheet). The light units themselves are secured by a single nut which holds a white plastic retaining arm (have a look at the location of this arm on the new light, and all becomes clear when looking into the recess of the boot lid). The only thing to note when installing the new ones is that there is a locating channel (or 2 lugs) which needs to locate around the side edge of the boot lid to pull the lights flush. Once inserted and flush, they are secured from inside with the plastic arm and nut.



    http://www.bilkomponenter.no/users/k...englisch_1.pdf


    Connecting the Kufatec looms was very straight forward. They come in two separte bags, 1 left and 1 right. The German word for left begins with the letter 'L', and right 'R', so that keeps things simple for non-German speakers like myself - RIGHT being the driver's side on a UK car (Right hand drive!).

    On the outer lights, you simply unplug the existing loom plug from the back of the light, and plug the short Kufatec loom between this plug and the back on the new light unit. The plugs on each end of the loom are different, and can only be inserted one way round, so you can't get it wrong.

    On the inner/boot-lid lights, the loom is equally plug-&-play and fool proof. The only "autoelectrician" bit you need to do is route the single long wire from each loom to the centre of the boot-lid where you solder a connection to the grey wire of the number plate lamp (which supplies a feed to the inner LED tubes when the lights are turned on), and then insulation tape this new joint into the loom.

    Some people have mentioned problems with water getting into the plugs of the conversion loom and recommended wrapping them in insulation tape. The area behind the lights on my car was bone dry despite the very wet winter we've had, so I didn't bother to tape the plugs, I just ensured the loom was clipped to the back of the light in its original position.

    That's it from the installation perspective!

    All of my lights worked perfectly/correctly at this point, so the car is perfectly safe and legal to drive if you need to take it to a garage for the recode. The only issue you have at this stage (which the coding resolves) is that the LED tube flashes 6 times when the Ignition key is first turned-on as the system tries to 'bulb test' what is now an LED tube. Also, the 2 bulbs in the outer light units illuminate as 'lights' inside the LED tube when the lights are switched on, but they do also glow brighter when the brake is applied so are quite legal. The re-code switches these two bulbs off as 'lights' leaving them to function just as 'brake lights' which leaves the centre of the LED tube shape dark until the brake is applied.

    I had the recode done at a garage, so can't give any direct advice on this, other than to say the coding provided here worked:

    General Electronics, coding, help with long coding:

    Byte 9 to Dec = 0 (turns off bulb as light)
    Byte 10 to Dec = 0 (turns off bulb as light)
    Byte 12 to Dec = 48 (brightest setting for bulbs; 36 being a slightly dimmer alternative)
    Byte 19 to De-active (turns off the bulb-check function of the LED tube, thus stopping the flickering when ignition switched on)

    Byte 18 to Bit 2 (this remains unchanged unless fitting LED bulbs and allows bulb check on the remaining conventional bulbs)

    Thanks to everyone who helped me! End result does look good!
    Last edited by Corrado Storm; 26th January 2014 at 08:23.
    discostu49, manor13 and Jbelly like this.

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    Fantastic guide. Thanks.

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    Well done mate thanks for the time and effort put into write up you may potentially save me £300 with this post
    Audi a3 3.2 v6 sport back ,s-line, Dolphin Grey with factory tints, deg sat nav, bose speakers, 18 upgraded alloys, magnaflow exhaust, eibach pro kit springs

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    oh nervous times, I Just orderd the lights £190 delivered.... Going to give it a bash hopefully can do it
    Audi a3 3.2 v6 sport back ,s-line, Dolphin Grey with factory tints, deg sat nav, bose speakers, 18 upgraded alloys, magnaflow exhaust, eibach pro kit springs

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    Can't wait to get some for mine, got any pics?
    A3 2.0 TDI S-Line

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    Quote Originally Posted by Mindak View Post
    Can't wait to get some for mine, got any pics?
    My camera / camera skills aren't really doing them justice with the night shots!

    Do a quick Google Images search for: 'Audi A3 Sportback Rear Lights' and there are some really good pics day and night.

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    Quote Originally Posted by discostu49 View Post
    oh nervous times, I Just orderd the lights £190 delivered.... Going to give it a bash hopefully can do it
    Good luck with the install!

    If you follow the instructions, and just take your time I'm sure you'll be fine. Just don't force anything when removing or installing the light units. Lower the boot lid carefully to check everything is in the right place before slamming it shut, etc, etc.

    The boot lid cover does need a bit of a tug to release it (once the four retaining screws are out); you can get your had into the slots you have removed the covers from and pull firmly from there. The metal retaining clips do make a slightly worrying noise as they pull out, but are fine. There are also some little rubber anti-rattle blocks which push on to various lugs; they can drop off, so check they are back in place before you reinstall the panel.

    The connector block for the number plate light is behind the left hand/passenger side number plate light. Follow the route of the existing looms in the boot to get the new wires to this point, tapeing the new wires to the loom to avoid them getting damaged. I just melted a section of insulation off the existing grey wire with a soldering iron rather than cutting it, and then connected the 2 new wires to this point and soldered the joint.

    I did the 2 boot-lid lights first, as these are the most involved, and I figured if it went badly wrong and I needed to drive the car to a garage, my main lights would still be working.... ....though I guess Fog lamps may be pretty useful in Perth at the moment!!

    "Obviously" have the lights & ignition switched off when doing the install. Can't think of anything else to watch-out for.

    If you are comfortable with what you have seen in the video and read in the instruction manual, I don't think you'll find much to catch you out with this install.

    The end result looks very nice on these dark winter mornings & evenings - enjoy!!
    discostu49 likes this.

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    So was on the kufatec uk site and seen the adaptors for £49 however it says at the bottom not suitable for right hand drive?? Does that matter or can I get ones specifically for right hand drive??
    Audi a3 3.2 v6 sport back ,s-line, Dolphin Grey with factory tints, deg sat nav, bose speakers, 18 upgraded alloys, magnaflow exhaust, eibach pro kit springs

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    Brilliant stuff! Thanks a lot, will be very useful.

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    Anyone got an answer for me ??
    Audi a3 3.2 v6 sport back ,s-line, Dolphin Grey with factory tints, deg sat nav, bose speakers, 18 upgraded alloys, magnaflow exhaust, eibach pro kit springs

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    Quote Originally Posted by discostu49 View Post
    So was on the kufatec uk site and seen the adaptors for £49 however it says at the bottom not suitable for right hand drive?? Does that matter or can I get ones specifically for right hand drive??
    My understanding is that this isn't an issue for the Sportback model as the lights are symmetrical (2 fogs, 2 reverse, etc); it said the same thing on the web-site I bought from and mine are fine. You do however need to fit the loom(s) labelled right to the right (drivers) side, and left to left (passenger) side. You can always mail/call Kufatec UK directly to double-check, but I'm sure this is fine.

    It may be different on a 3 door model where lights aren't symmetrical, so one for a LHD car may not work?

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    Ordered the lights yesterday btw, looking forward to getting them. How long did it take you to install all in all?

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    Quote Originally Posted by DriverN00B View Post
    Ordered the lights yesterday btw, looking forward to getting them. How long did it take you to install all in all?
    It's probably a couple of hours. Taking the boot cover off and soldering & insulating the joint is the most time consuming bit. The outer lights are literally just plug-&-play once they are out, but can be a bit tricky to get out if you haven't done it before (watch the video if you haven't).

    The coding at the garage took 20 minutes, and I suspect it actually takes less time than that but he had to justify my £30!

    Like all lighting jobs, just don't start it late afternoon when you definitely need to go out after dark that night or it's sure to go badly wrong!!!!

    Good luck!
    Last edited by Corrado Storm; 29th January 2014 at 19:47.

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    Great write up, I'm sure will come in handy for many users.

    We need a 'Modding Instructions/Guide' sticky thread for this exact reason. Users can post their instructions on the thread, making clear what the instructions are for and what vehicle they were written for but ensure it is kept purely for instructions/guides only and not used to ask questions and/or give advise on the instructions/guides in the thread.

    So many times I have seen people asking the same questions that have been asked over and over and over again (i did it when I first started using the site) and with a sticky thread purely aimed for users to post up guides and instructions on mods/work they have carried out on their car, would save users time and help out all.
    Ask admin to advertise here

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    Corrado storm your a star
    Audi a3 3.2 v6 sport back ,s-line, Dolphin Grey with factory tints, deg sat nav, bose speakers, 18 upgraded alloys, magnaflow exhaust, eibach pro kit springs

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    Quote Originally Posted by discostu49 View Post
    Corrado storm your a star
    This is the link to the site I bought from, same message about not suitable for RHD cars. Works fine on my RHD car!

    Good communication, service and prompt delivery to UK (fully tracked).

    KUFATEC Facelift LED Rear Lights - Adapter - Audi A3 8PA Sportback

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    good guide going to be doing this soon.
    2006 8P Audi A3 2.0 TFSI Quattro Sportback SE / 2013 8V Audi A3 1.6 TDI Sportback

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    i have these lights.
    i have saved some money and not bought the looms and directly wire it in the car.
    Now could you confirm the pin-outs from the new face-lift lights?
    Here is a picture of what i think the pin-out is

    photo.jpg

    Also when you say a wire from each light to the number plate lights > you mean each inner or all 4?
    Where would you route the wire from the outers to the boot lid?

    thanks
    "Understeer" is when you hit the fence with the front of the car.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Icey View Post
    i have these lights.
    i have saved some money and not bought the looms and directly wire it in the car.
    Now could you confirm the pin-outs from the new face-lift lights?
    Here is a picture of what i think the pin-out is

    photo.jpg

    Also when you say a wire from each light to the number plate lights > you mean each inner or all 4?
    Where would you route the wire from the outers to the boot lid?

    thanks
    This link shows you the routing inside the boot-lid, and also that you only need to connect the 2 boot-lid lights to the number plate lights to get a feed for the LED tubes. The LED tubes on the 2 outer lights take their feed from what was the original lighting circuit.

    http://www.bilkomponenter.no/users/k...englisch_1.pdf

    I didn't look in detail at the new-to-old pin configuration on the conversion looms, so can't help you there. Perhaps some of the guys who are about to do the install will be able to look at their looms & light for you before fitting.

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    Lights arrived nothing Yous haven't seen before will take pics of the install to help with the thread
    uploadfromtaptalk1391115765897.jpguploadfromtaptalk1391115785555.jpg
    Audi a3 3.2 v6 sport back ,s-line, Dolphin Grey with factory tints, deg sat nav, bose speakers, 18 upgraded alloys, magnaflow exhaust, eibach pro kit springs

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    I'm in the process now

    do the old rear fogs just pull out with a good tugg or are they bottled in
    Audi a3 3.2 v6 sport back ,s-line, Dolphin Grey with factory tints, deg sat nav, bose speakers, 18 upgraded alloys, magnaflow exhaust, eibach pro kit springs

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    They are installed easy job ran into problems with a propane solder iron so had to go out and buy solder and extension lead during the process just need to get them coded now uploadfromtaptalk1391361263229.jpguploadfromtaptalk1391361279993.jpg
    Audi a3 3.2 v6 sport back ,s-line, Dolphin Grey with factory tints, deg sat nav, bose speakers, 18 upgraded alloys, magnaflow exhaust, eibach pro kit springs

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    As title anyone in the Perth area have vcds and can change the codes for my lights local garage want £50
    cheers
    Audi a3 3.2 v6 sport back ,s-line, Dolphin Grey with factory tints, deg sat nav, bose speakers, 18 upgraded alloys, magnaflow exhaust, eibach pro kit springs

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    Think I've taken over this thread with questions ha, o be more tho got a guy doing the codes tonight but byte19 should this be active or de-active on page 1 states byte 19 to de-active however all other searches state byte19 must be activated ...??? Confused plus I don't get the flickering at the moment
    Audi a3 3.2 v6 sport back ,s-line, Dolphin Grey with factory tints, deg sat nav, bose speakers, 18 upgraded alloys, magnaflow exhaust, eibach pro kit springs

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    Mine flashed when the ignition electrics were first switched-on as the system performs a 'bulb check' through what is now an LED tube. The flickering only lasts a few seconds and then the tube light is stable, so maybe get someone else to turn the ignition key while you stand at the back of the car to check.

    I had Byte 19 set to DE-ACTIVE, and no longer get flickering.

    The auto electric garage which coded mine asked if I intended using LED bulbs in the bulb holders; if I had, they would have also set Byte 18 to De-Active (i.e. Turn off the bulb test function) to avoid 'blown bulb' warning lights on dash, etc.

    I kept the standard bulbs which came fitted in the lighting unit, so left Byte 18 Active so I get the bulbs checked on start-up.
    Last edited by Corrado Storm; 3rd February 2014 at 21:21.

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    sorted, love these lights one of the best mods you can do to a old Audi
    uploadfromtaptalk1391462374701.jpg
    Audi a3 3.2 v6 sport back ,s-line, Dolphin Grey with factory tints, deg sat nav, bose speakers, 18 upgraded alloys, magnaflow exhaust, eibach pro kit springs

  28. #27
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    I agree, best mod I have done to mine.
    Growing old is mandatory, growing up is optional


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    Just ordered mine mate will try and fit myself also a friend has vcds but does not really know how to do all the codeing yet is it easy enough for a newbi or am I best getting someone else to do it ? Also you say these are listed as left hand drive car fitment but are fine on right hand drive?

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    Just read the first post a few times and watch the link it is easy enough vcds is easy aswell
    Audi a3 3.2 v6 sport back ,s-line, Dolphin Grey with factory tints, deg sat nav, bose speakers, 18 upgraded alloys, magnaflow exhaust, eibach pro kit springs

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    Yeah spot on
    Growing old is mandatory, growing up is optional


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    I used the kufatec ones that were £50 dont know what the difference is
    Audi a3 3.2 v6 sport back ,s-line, Dolphin Grey with factory tints, deg sat nav, bose speakers, 18 upgraded alloys, magnaflow exhaust, eibach pro kit springs

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    Hi mate have you still got the wireing instructions if so can you post them up as the cables ive got are the same but the instructions are in poor english the cables are easy enough they are marked left and right but where does the small wire get soldered to?

  35. #34
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    It goes to the grey wire feeding the numberplate lights
    Growing old is mandatory, growing up is optional


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    Quote Originally Posted by southylad View Post
    Hi mate have you still got the wireing instructions if so can you post them up as the cables ive got are the same but the instructions are in poor english the cables are easy enough they are marked left and right but where does the small wire get soldered to?
    Full instructions with photos.

    http://www.bilkomponenter.no/users/k...englisch_1.pdf
    southylad likes this.

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    Thats great cheers mate I got the cables today and the lights will be here in a day or two I will fit them and have a go at codeing them Im just not very slilled with vcds and I cant seem to find a how to guid for codeing the led lights, did you just strip a bit of the grey wire and solder to it?

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    General Electronics, coding, help with long coding:
    Byte 9 to Dec = 0 (turns off bulb as light)
    Byte 10 to Dec = 0 (turns off bulb as light)
    Byte 12 to Dec = 48 (brightest setting for bulbs; 36 being a slightly dimmer alternative)
    Byte 19 to De-active (turns off the bulb-check function of the LED tube, thus stopping the flickering when ignition switched on)
    Growing old is mandatory, growing up is optional


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    Cheers I read that but it gets a bit daunting when ive got a module open and all the letters and numbers on the long codeing I get scared I will do something wrong and something wont work when I unplug

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    in the correct byte you just need to delete the value iirc it was 22? delete the 22 and put 0

    Yes it does look daunting but if you make a note before you change anything, you can go back.
    southylad likes this.
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    I will have a go, dont be supprised if I have to post for help tho but you learn nothing nothaving a go eh cheers



    Quote Originally Posted by LEE69 View Post
    in the correct byte you just need to delete the value iirc it was 22? delete the 22 and put 0

    Yes it does look daunting but if you make a note before you change anything, you can go back.

 

 
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