Sorry for starting a new thread on something that has been talked about, that is installation of LED number plate lights whether it's OEM or Non-OEM that gives bulb error on the DIS. There are currently two ways to negate this error:
A) Using Vagcom - this simply tells the on-board computer to ignore checking the number plate lights for bulb errors, this means, as I understand, if you do have a blown LED light, it WON'T give you the bulb error message, you only find out by visual inspection. I don't have vagcom so this was not an option.
B) adding load resistors, the best one one I found online is (someone posted this somewhere from this forum actually): Adapter plate LEDs Audi A4 B6, B7 / Audi A3 8P-39298-1 but this cost around £30.
Or
C) using your existing Festoon bulbs as 'load resistors', which is what I did, and as the title suggest, it really didn't cost me anything since I had all the material already.
1) First take your festoon bulbs and 4 pieces of copper cable cut to a reasonable length. The aim is to solder the copper cables to the ends of the festoon bulbs. One tip is to first file/sand the ends of the festoon bulbs in order to roughen it for a better soldering surface. you should end up with something like below:
2) Take the lower boot lid trim off: http://homepage.ntlworld.com/h5djr/elsawin/rear lid trim.pdf
Basically remove the two torx screws and pull it outwards. The photo below shows the trim removed and inside you will see four clips that hold it in place on each side. Sometimes the clips stay stuck in the boot lid itself so you'll need to use pliers to get them out (photos below).
3) You'll need to locate the number plate socket that supplies the power.. simply pull lightly and the socket/plug should come out.
4) Peel back the OEM black tape that surrounds the cable and you will see 4 cables in this order - Brown - Brown/Grey - Brown - Brown/Black. You'd want to tap into the Brown - Brown/Grey wires (photo attached) with your home-made festoon bulb+wires like the second photo. I used Crimp connectors to secure them together. Soldering might have been better but I couldn't do this at the time..
5) Then re-insert the number plate socket/plug, hope for the best, and smile when the bulb error disappears
In summary this procedure is exactly like fitting in a proper load resister but these can get extremely hot, I suppose the festoon bulbs go quite hot as well but something tells me that they'll be fine; especially because they're not touching anything in its immediately surrounding, its located in a 'pocket' within the boot trim.
I've had them in for a few days and so far so good. i'm sure this will work with any LED number plate lights, I went for some on ebay as they are a little bit brighter and MUCH cheaper compared to the OEM version.
So if you have an hour or so at hand and can't stand the bulb error any longer, then feel free to give it a shot.
Wxc
A) Using Vagcom - this simply tells the on-board computer to ignore checking the number plate lights for bulb errors, this means, as I understand, if you do have a blown LED light, it WON'T give you the bulb error message, you only find out by visual inspection. I don't have vagcom so this was not an option.
B) adding load resistors, the best one one I found online is (someone posted this somewhere from this forum actually): Adapter plate LEDs Audi A4 B6, B7 / Audi A3 8P-39298-1 but this cost around £30.
Or
C) using your existing Festoon bulbs as 'load resistors', which is what I did, and as the title suggest, it really didn't cost me anything since I had all the material already.
1) First take your festoon bulbs and 4 pieces of copper cable cut to a reasonable length. The aim is to solder the copper cables to the ends of the festoon bulbs. One tip is to first file/sand the ends of the festoon bulbs in order to roughen it for a better soldering surface. you should end up with something like below:
2) Take the lower boot lid trim off: http://homepage.ntlworld.com/h5djr/elsawin/rear lid trim.pdf
Basically remove the two torx screws and pull it outwards. The photo below shows the trim removed and inside you will see four clips that hold it in place on each side. Sometimes the clips stay stuck in the boot lid itself so you'll need to use pliers to get them out (photos below).
3) You'll need to locate the number plate socket that supplies the power.. simply pull lightly and the socket/plug should come out.
4) Peel back the OEM black tape that surrounds the cable and you will see 4 cables in this order - Brown - Brown/Grey - Brown - Brown/Black. You'd want to tap into the Brown - Brown/Grey wires (photo attached) with your home-made festoon bulb+wires like the second photo. I used Crimp connectors to secure them together. Soldering might have been better but I couldn't do this at the time..
5) Then re-insert the number plate socket/plug, hope for the best, and smile when the bulb error disappears
In summary this procedure is exactly like fitting in a proper load resister but these can get extremely hot, I suppose the festoon bulbs go quite hot as well but something tells me that they'll be fine; especially because they're not touching anything in its immediately surrounding, its located in a 'pocket' within the boot trim.
I've had them in for a few days and so far so good. i'm sure this will work with any LED number plate lights, I went for some on ebay as they are a little bit brighter and MUCH cheaper compared to the OEM version.
So if you have an hour or so at hand and can't stand the bulb error any longer, then feel free to give it a shot.
Wxc
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