Stock head unit.... aftermarket sub.... pop

S

sliced

Drive safe, stay alive.
Joined
Jun 12, 2012
Messages
1,592
Reaction score
348
Points
83
Hi guys ive posted this in the ice section but no avail, so going to ask in the 8p section.


Basically I have got my sub wired up and it all works etc, connected it via tapping into the oem sub, and disconnected the oem sub.
Now the problem is, when i turn on the stereo and the sub turns on it makes a pop noise, same for when i turn it off. Anyway to get this sorted? Any help would be appreciated.
 
unfortunatly that sounds like the external amp your using for the sub, doesnt have any protection on it.

I have mine wired in the exactly same way as yours, but i left my stock sub working also.

Mine waits 10 seconds before working, to stop any surges on start up. but a few helpful tips (as i work wit sound and big pa's for bands etc for a living)
is make sure you turn down your stereo when turning off, will help with popping.

BUT in theory, car subs are meant to be BATTERED, which is why they have a thick rubber surround around the speaker.
The speaker should be fine long as you turn it down before turn off, but it sounds like your amp doesnt have the protection most do on startup.

Hope this helps.
 
JJ.Foulds said:
unfortunatly that sounds like the external amp your using for the sub, doesnt have any protection on it.

I have mine wired in the exactly same way as yours, but i left my stock sub working also.

Mine waits 10 seconds before working, to stop any surges on start up. but a few helpful tips (as i work wit sound and big pa's for bands etc for a living)
is make sure you turn down your stereo when turning off, will help with popping.

BUT in theory, car subs are meant to be BATTERED, which is why they have a thick rubber surround around the speaker.
The speaker should be fine long as you turn it down before turn off, but it sounds like your amp doesnt have the protection most do on startup.

Hope this helps.
Click to expand...

Cheers, i was told an aftermarket headunit would solve the popping noise?

I gave my local audio fitter just shy of £100 to fit, and an hour later
photo_2.jpg

Its only 550w rms, but does pack quite a punch lol. Its just that annoying popping noise when turned on, GRRRRRRRRRRR
 
never too much bass!

but no an aftermarket headunit will NOT solve the issue.

The headunit, only tells the sub's amp WHEN to turn on. so changing it wont change anything. (the audi one turns on with the car irrelevant to the stereo)

And im pretty sure i wired in the 12v feed, from the audi sub ANYWAY, which means REGARDLESS of even having a headunit fitting your sub will turn on and pop? lol i think ha.

But im 100% its the amp :)


BUT im glad you stated the amp in RMS rather than ' EY MAYTE, STOKIN A 5,000W BOOMBOX'

Mine is running 900W into 700W of 2x 10" subs. nice and punchy!, but the unit weighs like just shy of 50kg... lol.
 
It will be your wiring, looking at your picture you could do with upgrading your 8gauge to a more suitable 4gauge wire, and make sure your ground wire is in a decent spot
 
Biggy said:
It will be your wiring, looking at your picture you could do with upgrading your 8gauge to a more suitable 4gauge wire, and make sure your ground wire is in a decent spot
Click to expand...

were not talking about mine ;) but the ground was only there to test it was all working lol, just wedged it in there. and 8 is fine for what i need :)
 
Biggy said:
It will be your wiring, looking at your picture you could do with upgrading your 8gauge to a more suitable 4gauge wire, and make sure your ground wire is in a decent spot
Click to expand...

Was also gonna suggest this. Even if u dont beef up ur power cable, run a 4 gauge ground to one of the seat bolt points for ur rear bench. Keep it as short as possible too, shorter the better.

Edit: Also is the power cap necessary? If ur running an 096 battery it should have plenty power to run that
 
Ground loop isolator connected inline on the RCA before it reaches the amp might work.
 
Sidhu88 said:
Was also gonna suggest this. Even if u dont beef up ur power cable, run a 4 gauge ground to one of the seat bolt points for ur rear bench. Keep it as short as possible too, shorter the better.

Edit: Also is the power cap necessary? If ur running an 096 battery it should have plenty power to run that
Click to expand...

this is the system i used to run in my 1.2 fiesta... yes a power cap was nessesary. but its not attached on the audi as you can see.
 
The pop is interference. Move the RCA cables to the other side of the car away from the power cables. Also as suggested run better and thicker cables.
 
I've used the same set up on a 3500+ watts rms twin subwoofer and my usual 300 watts no problem at all however I have left the Bose subwoofer to be working alongside it as previously I had the same problem when switching the radio on or off. Hope it helps.
 
Paulc33 said:
The pop is interference. Move the RCA cables to the other side of the car away from the power cables. Also as suggested run better and thicker cables.
Click to expand...

It is a turning on surge not interference, coming from the car being turned on, or the stereo turned on.

but your right about moving rca cables to the other side of car from the power source, to rid of any interference if any.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

mikep
Aftermarket Head Unit
Replies
19
Views
1K
Amchlolor
Amchlolor
J
Replacing stock head unit
Replies
3
Views
435
samisnake
samisnake
Horlix66
Aftermarket head unit wiring
Replies
10
Views
2K
Horlix66
Horlix66
D
Aftermarket head unit
Replies
1
Views
642
Marek196c
Marek196c
L
Aftermarket head unit installation help
Replies
4
Views
867
JohnE
J
Top
Back