My standard Audi sub and rear speakers are not working. Yesterday went to pick up a replacement. He showed me it fully working in the car he was breaking then removed it. I put it in my car today and sub and rears are still not working?? Could it be a problem with the Head Unit. I just want all my speakers to work again. Any help will be appreciated.
Audi Concert standard Sub problem's....Still not fixed
- Thread starter Rider4life
- Start date
First stop is the mini-iso plug on the rear of the HU (assuming it's the ISO not quadlock stereo). What year is the car?
Same era as mine (although mine's a little younger) - there are three plugs in the back (unless you have factory bluetooth/phone when it's 4). Two ISO - one for power and earth, one for the speakers (only front on this). One Mini-iso - this has the connections for CAN BUS and the feeds to the amp (for rear speakers and sub) - and CD changer if fiitted.
Does your radio turn on/off with Ignition? - do you get illumination at night with the radio turned off? - these are controlled by the CAN BUS which is on the same mini-iso as the rear amp.
Have they ever worked? If they have and if the IGN/Illumination are OK, check for a blown fuse.
Does your radio turn on/off with Ignition? - do you get illumination at night with the radio turned off? - these are controlled by the CAN BUS which is on the same mini-iso as the rear amp.
Have they ever worked? If they have and if the IGN/Illumination are OK, check for a blown fuse.
Yep my stereo turns on/off with igntion. If i'm listening to radio with ignition off it turns off when pulling out the key. All illuminates as it should. It's never worked since i owned the car. Been through all the fuse boxes there all ok. I just bought some removal keys on ebay so will take it out when they come and go from there.
Er.... Without wanting to state the obvious - the fader's not set fully to the front......
If the illumination etc works, then the mini - iso is in place, unless it's been butchered at some point
If the illumination etc works, then the mini - iso is in place, unless it's been butchered at some point
I changed my whole interior yesterday for half leathers and had the door cards all off. When we took off the drivers side rear doorcard the magnet that sits behind the tweeter fell off. If say one speaker was not working would that cause the sub and other speaker not to work?
Wouldn't have thought a single dead tweeter should bring down the whole thing - although if there's a driect short circuit, it might be shutting down the entire amp via some form of protection.
Managed to get the stereo out using some metal nail files haha. I tested the pin that was circled in red on his diagram and its getting 12v. Although my connector for the sub is different i'm gathering the thick red and blue is the live and brown is earth. Tested them with the stereo on and i'm not getting any voltage from that live. I tested it against the another earth just to rule out the brown. So its definatly that red/blue live wire. Just need to find out where that goes!!!!!
That red/blue goes straight back to Fuse 18 in the engine bay box according to the current flow diagram - so if the fuse is good, assume there has to be something disconnected - but I can't see any connectors in the path apart from the 40 pin one at the engine fuse box.
One other thought - the orange/purple and orange/brown (pin 5 and 6 on the connector) are apparently connections from the rear amp to CAN BUS - I wonder if it's possible to code the car using VCDS to say something like "no sub fitted" - just a thought and purely speculation, but maybe canbus is telling the sub not to bother.
BTW - you are going to be disappointed when you get this working
One other thought - the orange/purple and orange/brown (pin 5 and 6 on the connector) are apparently connections from the rear amp to CAN BUS - I wonder if it's possible to code the car using VCDS to say something like "no sub fitted" - just a thought and purely speculation, but maybe canbus is telling the sub not to bother.
BTW - you are going to be disappointed when you get this working
That red/blue goes straight back to Fuse 18 in the engine bay box according to the current flow diagram - so if the fuse is good, assume there has to be something disconnected - but I can't see any connectors in the path apart from the 40 pin one at the engine fuse box.
One other thought - the orange/purple and orange/brown (pin 5 and 6 on the connector) are apparently connections from the rear amp to CAN BUS - I wonder if it's possible to code the car using VCDS to say something like "no sub fitted" - just a thought and purely speculation, but maybe canbus is telling the sub not to bother.
BTW - you are going to be disappointed when you get this working
Thanks so much JohnE, I went to fuse 18 and for some reason it was missing. Before i checked all the fuses that was in there didnt think of one being missing. Do you know the size fuse for it? Put a 20amp fuse in it for now and got all my sound back. Very Happy!!!
My Haynes manual (!) lists it as 30 amp. Maybe a previous owner needed a fuse urgently and swapped it out as a get you home.
Glad it's working.
Glad it's working.
