Anyone changed an Ignition switch on an 8P ?

Hi All,

I have been researching an error code that my car keeps throwing up..

00883 - Ignition Switch (D) Terminal S
012 - Electrical Fault in Circuit - Intermittent

It would seem like it is a fairly common code which is usually fixed by changing the ignition switch.

It would seem that the steering lock and barrel don't need to be changed as the ignition switch simply plugs onto the bottom ?

Anyone know anything about this, or have any experience in changing one ?

Seems the guy's over on Briskoda and TDIClub have seen similar errors on their Octavia's and VW's, but can't find much written about it any Audi A3 forums.

Any help would be really appreciated.

Thanks guy's.

Took the plunge and picked up a Ignition Switch from my Local TPS today

Part number 1K0905849B at £38.00 all in..

So, now looking to fit it..

Looked at many forums (Audi-Sport, Briskoda, TDIClub, AudiFans etc.) but still can't find any definitive information on how it is done.

I was hoping to remove the steering column cowls to expose the switch, pop it off the back of the steering lock and barrel and plug in the new one, simples !!

But reading on the forums, some say steering wheel and air bag off to get to the cowl screws, others say to remove instrument cluster and work through the hole, others say exactly what I want to hear, simply remove cowls and plug it in !!
I did also read on one forum about having to drill out security screws, so I really hope not..

Don't really know what to believe, as I guess different models and ages are all different.

So if anyone knows anything that may help, please shout !!

Many Thanks

Yonner said:

Did you fix this mate ?

Click to expand...

Yep, changing the ignition switch got rid of the errors that were showing on VCDS..

I actually got my mate who is a Merc Tech to do the job, and he said it wasn't to bad to do.

I watched him do it and he didn't remove the steering wheel or air bags as you can get to the cowling screws by turning the wheel to certain positions to reveal the screws.

The bottom cowl has to be removed, then there is sufficient access to the ignition switch.

The ignition switch is fixed onto the bottom of the barrel by a couple of clips so there was no need to remove the barrel or drill out any screws or anything nasty like that.

Bit fiddly to do but once the connector is removed and the old switch is out, the fitting of the new one took seconds, just an electrical connector and snap the switch in place.

Are you having problems with intermittent contacts like I did ?