S3 BT build.

Unitronic

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Hi my name is Bryan and i work for SW Motorsports!

I though it was time for me to start my own builders thread. So please guy's be patient as this is my 1st thread build. So here it goes!! I will start at the beginning.

I previously owned a 2008 Seat Leon Cupra K1 and currently own a 2007 B7 Audi S3! I will mention a lot of the obvious at the beginning and will get more technical as I progress! lets briefly start with the Seat Leon build with explaining the good and bad.

My initial plan was to see what horsepower I could achieve from the Leon on a standard platform.

I began with remapping the car with a S1 Revo which gave me 300hp the car felt great but then got bored so remapped the car to S2 which bumped the horsepower up to 320hp but shortly after boredom started creeping back in so it was time for the bolt on's!






 
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After searching through my wallet I found some cash just wanting to be spent!

Well this's how it tuned out!

(1) BSH CAI & ITG CAI £350
(2) Custom Exhaust 3" cat delete build by C&C Customs Glasgow. £800
(3) Forge BOV BOV £130
(4) BSH Catch Can atmospheric £200
(5) Autotech fuel pump internals £300
(6) THS Intercooler £499
(7) BSH Throttle pipe £100
(8) RS4 Regulator Valve £ 38
(9) Team Dynamics 1.2 18" 40 235 R888 £500 R888 £640
(10) Vibra-Technics Engine mounts. £500
(11) WMI Devils Own £350
(12) Eibac lowering springs. £160
(13) S2+ with upgraded file version 12. S2+ £110 Free upgrade.

£4,677





As we can see the BSH CAI was nowhere close to doing the job sufficiently as expected with the S2+

So after a quick change the ITG CAI was the better option as the BSH had its restrictions! To accommodate the ITG the THS and throttle pipe played a big roll in the airflow as the OEM throttle pipe caused a huge amount of turbulence and effected the smooth delivery that the BSH throttle pipe offered! BSH throttle pipe instillation takes around twenty minutes and a nice little upgrade for potential top end! Which in turn has the two bungs for WMI.


 
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Seeing as I have sorted the cooling including air flow I needed to feed it with sufficient fuel.

As S2+ demanded more fuel the OEM FPRV could not support the demand on fueling! This could be seen & felt as the ECU retarded the engine on higher revs & at 130 bar peak it settled at 128 bar which were insufficient to achieve the full potential on this S2+ where it demanded 132 bar! The RS4 FPRV has a 136 bar constant pressure hold!

RS4 RFPV was the best way to eliminate this problem!






Installation can take up to 3 hours and very hard to do because of its position.
 
After some serious thought it was time to inject the engine with some Water-meth!


My choice when it came to choosing a WMI system was easy and choosing Devils Own was cheap and simple to install.












 
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After all the goodies had been installed it was time to see how this car performed!

I contacted HQ wanting to know if a file was available for WMI and to my disappointment there was none. I decided it might be a good idea to purchase the SPS switch & working together HQ sent me some settings to load my ECU. My SPS switch was in the post with my new settings and the excitement was overwhelming as you can guess.

Eventually my pressie arrived and I could not wait to try this new setting. Before I carry on about this I will advise you what I had done so you can picture the build up until this point.

I'm a 1/4 mile Queen and have spent most of my time playing and competing with friends with similar F1 car's since 2008 and to see how a car really performs its best to see how a driver reacts to it.

My first time playing at Crail with S1 was as follows.
14.2 @ 103

Thought this was not bad, but could do better although the car was completely standard with only a S1.

After some practice runs & loading the S2 file I thought, right I'm ready! Well all was not as it seemed. Having the car run on very low graded tires with standard suspension my times was not going to decrease dramatically and 14.00 @ 105 & 13.9 was the best time. Sigh, the next step was now the option to installEibach sport line springs. A mistake, never do this it does nothing to your car and it only makes it look good at stance. Upgrade it with proper coilovers, KW, AP, and if your short on cash there are other brands that will work just as well.

So back I go to my local dealer who was not very helpful loading S2+ and replacing all OEM parts mentioned above (I did all modification bolt-ons myself) the dealer only loaded the file. This transformed it drastically and 365hp was a given. Remember guys always look for someone who has the time to spend with you logging and setting your car up with you, after all upgrades are done. If you have a tuner sending you away after he has loaded your car don't go back to them.
​
 
Now that I had the S2+ file loaded it was time.


Standard tires with no fitted diff and full interior was a huge mountain to climb seeing I was expected the car to do low 13s! A few runs got me 13.7 @ 113.

Disappointed and with a dented ego I went back and found that my BOV was not working correctly, at 1.5 bar and a loss 0.3 bar it was another small set back. This is another upgrade that is unnecessary and your OEM valve will do the job seeing you will run without WMI! The sound from the induction is way better leaving the OEM. I purchased the upgraded PVC blank off cap from Foge MotorSport which worked well in conjunction with BOV. The blank off cap had 3 hose connecting points which suited me fine as this would accommodate boost gauges, BOV valve, WMI boost gauge and so after all it was somehow a beneficial upgrade, that is if you decide on going WMI.

Well the Queen was back at Crail and bang there it was 13.4 @ 114 still on standard tires and diff with full interior.

This was a great break through, but then boredom started creeping in. Again!

Decided I wanted more and WMI was the next great upgrade as I wanted to see what and how much the TFSI BWJ engine can produce with KO4 turbo. Installed Devils Own system and set the boost pressure to start at 0.800 bar and on full injection at 1.1 bar through to 1.6 bar continuous hold at 250psi.

Saturday morning I hear the postie slipping something through the door and to my excitement it was the SPS switch.

Opened my pressie to find the loaded settings,

(1) Performance A: On 95 ron B6 T2 F6
(2) Performance B: On 97 ron B6 T4 F6
(3) Performance C: WMI On+97 B7 T6 F6

Well I was not impressed with what I found and thought it was time to play it my way again by experimenting! Well most guys run their settings at B8 T5 F6 and the gains and delivery are great! Well it was time I started playing with it myself. Had my Team Dynamics and R888 fitted and started looking at some WMI mixes and what would be the right mixes to use.

Remember guys every setting you change on this SPS make sure you log the car & anything above -3 timing is dangerous.........there are some folk who run higher timing not taking into consideration the dangers and it WILL blow eventually as detonation will kill it!!! A car with out WMI will run perfectly fine on B8 T5 F6 & at 18 degrees is perfectly fine!

When it comes to the perfect mixture you need to understand the different octane levels Meth has! There are different grades of Meth some are lower then others. The lower the grade the more you need to mix into your tank, the more the octane the less Meth can be used to mix in your tank!

Lets start say with 105 octane Meth! 30% meth mix using a 5L tank will give you 1.5L Meth and 3L distilled water ratio. After some experimenting and searching for something ideal, I found that screen wash was a nice lubricant in keeping your WMI pump nice and clean from corrosion so the mix was 1.5L Meth 3L Distilled water & 500ml of screen wash!

This will, if you use Tesco 99, bump it around 105 fuel octane & your car will love this!


Make sure your spark plugs are up to the job & NGK Iridium spark plugs are good for this application.


Seeing that it was time to start with some serious tuning I thought it was a good idea ignoring the safety guide lines I was supposed to follow. Well I started low down working myself up trying to find the best possible settings to enhance my power figures.

This is what I got at first.

B8 T7 F6


 
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At 407bhp @ 376lbs with B8 T7 F6 was really a huge high and running back to my favourite track I nailed 13.047 @ 115mph. This was exiting as this was a huge achievement seeing my best so far was 13.4 although I was not happy and wanted more! (best TV was at 116 to date)

Oh well I started taking it to the next level & thought it would be nice to see if I could find more power and this is how I did it…...

Again, I started looking for more aggressive settings & started from the bottom & 407bhp was to be wiped as I wanted to see how if it was possible! Took the car out & data logged it with the settings above to make sure the car still reacted well to T7 27.5-28 degrees & it was spot on. Started with B7 1.5 bar and T7. Set the T up a notch T8 and logged it finding it pulled 1.3 T and correcting itself back 00. This was good news. (Meth-Mix must be tested & mixed correctly) After some time I managed B8 T8 F5 & still the correction was down at 00. Wow! This was great & the car performed well and was very aggressive.

Mmmmh, still I wanted more! T9 was on the cards seeing the engine was happy taking this abuse. Not satisfied I tested and tested and driving testing & changing the software B8 T9 F5 was the end result. However, I was still not happy I worked my fuel ratio to Meth and mixing 25L petrol to 5L Meth took the car to the next level again! I did not dyno the car again after this & did set the T back to T8 for safety reasons! Anitial bhp was around 425 & 435 allthough I can not proof it....Never had problems with this car and still to this day it is awesome and very exiting driving it to ASDA & back. LOL

Now I'm taking a very different direction and thought it's time for my S3 BT conversion.
 
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I initially bought the car for this BT project and immediately started my planing! Picking the B7 S3 was the better and easier option that was comfortable on my pocket seeing I was going to splash out! I wanted something totally different from my previous projects, however, any BT project is costly and time consuming!

Engine

(1) THS Intercooler

(2) Integrated throttle pipe with 2 bungs for WM Injectors

(3) Vibra Technics engine mounts L400 Competition.

(4) RS4 Regulator valve

(5) Devils Own Watermeth system.

(6) Tail BOV 11psi

(7) Autotech fuel pump internals

(8) MitshiMoto Performance Radiator

(9) Stage 2 Drag South Bend SMF Clutch kit.

(10) Team Dynamics 18" R888

(11) 3" Down Pipe strait 3" middle section pipe custom silencer running through with no back box Catalyst delete!

(12) 3 Point Subaru catch can fore circulating runner delete.

(13) PVC delete & blank of PVC housing.

(14) RFD

(15) Oil filter heat Exchanger Delete. Oil cooler system MitshiMoto

(16) Partition Delete

(17) Aircon delete

(18) Throttle body Ported and polished

(19) Ported heads and polished.

(20) Integrated Engineering I beam Tuscan connecting rods.Rifled drilled as standard

(21) JE Piston set: 83.5mm bore (1.0mm over size) ,9.5:1 CR, 92.8mm stroke

(22) Main bearings

(23) ARP Head studs

(24) ARP Main studs

(25) Cylinder head gasket set

(26) Uprated big end bearings

(27) Lightened Ferrea valves & Integrated Engineering springs & retainers kit

(28) GTX3076R 0.82 AR Hot side AR60 Cold sideT3 GTV/Band Housing. Anti surge. T3 High flow exhaust manifoldPolished & TAIL External wastegate. V/Band

(29) RS4 Injectors

(30) Electrical in tank LPFP to support 525+ bhp

(30) Haldex Gen 4 + cable.

(31) Diamond drilled and grooved discs.

(32) Braided brake lines.

(33) AP coilovers
 
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:hubbahubba:I neeeeeed to re-read this when im more awake. Awesome right up man.
Nice to see a fellow Scott doing this. I can tell this is going to get me wanting to do this.
Great work.
 
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nice build thread. enjoyed reading it. only one thing s3 is 8p not b7 :beerchug:
 
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While the engine was about to get its full overhaul I decided to do some porting and polishing to my Manifold!

Here are some pictures showing the restrictions that needed cleaning!














 
This's the result after some hours of porting!

























<a href="http://s1334.photobucket.com/user/bryan_anthony2/media/P1010764_zps075307ca.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1334.photobucket.com/albums/w647/bryan_anthony2/P1010764_zps075307ca.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo P1010764_zps075307ca.jpg"/></a>





<a href="http://s1334.photobucket.com/user/bryan_anthony2/media/P1010792_zps3f13c29c.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1334.photobucket.com/albums/w647/bryan_anthony2/P1010792_zps3f13c29c.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo P1010792_zps3f13c29c.jpg"/></a>


<a href="http://s1334.photobucket.com/user/bryan_anthony2/media/P1010793_zps76c081b3.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1334.photobucket.com/albums/w647/bryan_anthony2/P1010793_zps76c081b3.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo P1010793_zps76c081b3.jpg"/></a>


 
Now that the mood is still strong polishing I thought it would be a good idea to polish the turbo inlet!


 
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Here are some pics showing the differences between standard & forged rod & Piston.


The overall weight when compared with piston are between 0.75g & 0.60g! Standard Piston with Rod weighs in at 1.075g where the
forge set weighs at 1.000g! This will be ideal with everyday use as its less stress on your crank!











 
Very nice indeed,and good to see another BT S3 on the way.

That's the ATP kit you used there isn't it.

And if I'm not mistaken an RS6 in tank pump?
 
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:hubbahubba:I neeeeeed to re-read this when im more awake. Awesome right up man.
Nice to see a fellow Scott doing this. I can tell this is going to get me wanting to do this.
Great work.


Thanks for you'er comment m8! You should do it! Will be nice to see more S3s come alive in Scotland! :s3addict:
 
Very nice indeed,and good to see another BT S3 on the way.

That's the ATP kit you used there isn't it.


Yes its ATP FSI Manifold. Can't wait to see how it performs seeing I have been reading you'er thread too! Great work btw!
 
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Yes its ATP FSI Manifold. Can't wait to see how it performs seeing I have been reading you'er thread too! Great work btw!

I thought so!

After the parts and work that went into mine,I think I recognise all of the manifolds and parts out there!

That's pretty sad,I know,but if there's any help I can give,let me know.


The ATP kit is still the only reliable,ready to go 500+bhp kit out there right now,and I know that APR make a very nice GTX 2867 kit,but it's topping out under 500bhp.

The other nice thing about the ATP manifold is the wastegate placement,which is easy to get at.

There are a few guys using RS6 and RS3 pumps,but also a few reports of excess LP line pressures,but I'm sure you'll have the right backup to get around that sort of thing.

What boost controller are you going to use?
 
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Very nice indeed,and good to see another BT S3 on the way.

That's the ATP kit you used there isn't it.

And if I'm not mistaken an RS6 in tank pump?


Its a drop-in High Low Pressure Fuel Pump (LPFP) upgrade for the TFSI (EA113) & TSI (EA888) Front wheel drive & all wheel drive & its capable of 525+. we have seen TSIs do 586bhp with these pumps.
 
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Its a drop-in High Low Pressure Fuel Pump (LPFP) upgrade for the TFSI (EA113) & TSI (EA888) Front wheel drive & all wheel drive & its capable of 525+. we have seen TSIs do 586bhp with these pumps.

Just wondered which one it was.....the yellow top is usually the RS6,and the blue top was the RS3/TTRS.

I used the USP pump which is completely different to both,and they claim the same sort of maximum flow to this.

Please keep the updates coming as the build goes on,as it's great to get other people's views and parts they've used,as well as good to see another S3 owner giving in to the need for more.

Best of luck......when do you hope to give it it's first run?
 
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I thought so!

After the parts and work that went into mine,I think I recognise all of the manifolds and parts out there!

That's pretty sad,I know,but if there's any help I can give,let me know.


The ATP kit is still the only reliable,ready to go 500+bhp kit out there right now,and I know that APR make a very nice GTX 2867 kit,but it's topping out under 500bhp.

The other nice thing about the ATP manifold is the wastegate placement,which is easy to get at.

There are a few guys using RS6 and RS3 pumps,but also a few reports of excess LP line pressures,but I'm sure you'll have the right backup to get around that sort of thing.

What boost controller are you going to use?




Yeah agreed I have searched everywhere & this was the only Manifold out there that will handle what you threw at it! I have heard so many manifolds cracking at the seams out there!

I'm still in deep thoughts with this one! If I do decide with a boost controller I will be using e-Boost, however, seeing I wanted to dress up the engine bay I thought having a manual controller in the engine bay would help make the look look more attractive.
 
Yeah agreed I have searched everywhere & this was the only Manifold out there that will handle what you threw at it! I have heard so many manifolds cracking at the seams out there!

I'm still in deep thoughts with this one! If I do decide with a boost controller I will be using e-Boost, however, seeing I wanted to dress up the engine bay I thought having a manual controller in the engine bay would help make the look look more attractive.

One of the other problems was the BSH/AFI tubular manifold seems impossible to get now,and I know of one other that makes tubular manifolds,but that's it.

I reckon if the ATP has put up with nearly 3 years worth of use in mine,it's OK.

I used the Gizzmo controller,and it's neatly hidden on my car,but easily accessible if I need or want to drop the boost a bit for nasty conditions.

Anyway....long day,and I need my ugly sleep.

Keep up the good work!
 
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The high pressure pump works perfect on these B7 series but they suffer from the LPFP that cant feed the High pressure fast enough. I like the idea its a direct drop-in.
 
The high pressure pump works perfect on these B7 series but they suffer from the LPFP that cant feed the High pressure fast enough. I like the idea its a direct drop-in.

That's a good point.

When mine was being built,that option didn't seem to be around,and USP were running a 600bhp Golf,so it was hard to resist!

Steve,the AMD engineer who did a lot of the work,said that getting that into the tank was quite a job.

From what I can remember,the stock S3 pump is OK until about 440bhp,before it maxes out,but that's clearly not going to be sufficient for what you have in mind!
 
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Excellent thread! Will keep my eye on this. Keep the updates coming :)
 
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Very interesting read, well done pal.:thumbsup:

What bhp you hoping to get?
 
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Thanks for everyone's comments!! I have been at it for a few days and will be for the next few days! I will be back soon to answer everyone's posts! Thanks again guys! :icon_thumright:
 
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Thanks for everyone's comments!! I have been at it for a few days and will be for the next few days! I will be back soon to answer everyone's posts! Thanks again guys! :icon_thumright:

Just keep it coming,and burn the midnight oil.

Love to find out what you think when you've got it running.

Each time I've taken a big step with mine,it's felt great,and kind of like having the Cosworths all over again.


I remember buying the GpN Escort and being told it would kill me or cure me......seems it didn't quite do either,and I'm sure this will be a great car when it's finished(although finishing a build is another thing altogether).
 
Very nice, well done for your work.
 
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