Going Stage 2+

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gilberto

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I'll be going Revo stage 2+ in the next couple of weeks after buying milltek turbo back exhaust, ITG CAI and Autotech fuel pump and cam follower.

Should i be uprating any other parts other than clutch, flywheel and clutch release bearing?
 
worth replacing cam follower when doing fuel pump swap (especially if the car has few thousand miles).
oh, and rs4 fuel pressure regulator does make a difference, it's cheap part but it requires some time, and work for changing as it's located underneath intake manifold. mine was done when the car was in for clutch change...
 
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S. said:
worth replacing cam follower when doing fuel pump swap (especially if the car has few thousand miles).
oh, and rs4 fuel pressure regulator does make a difference, it's cheap part but it requires some time, and work for changing as it's located underneath intake manifold. mine was done when the car was in for clutch change...
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What benefit does the RS4 fuel regulator give? Is it worth uprating the injectors, coil pack and plugs?
 
well it gives little more power and torque after 5000-5500rpm (and gets rid of flat spot at those rpm's on more aggressive settings).
injectors aren't needed as s3 ones flow more than enough for stage 2+. coil packs aren't needed too. maybe spark plugs if they've been long on car before...
 
gilberto said:
What benefit does the RS4 fuel regulator give? Is it worth uprating the injectors, coil pack and plugs?
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As below,the S3 injectors will take you to around 400bhp and maybe a little more,so they'll be fine.

Stick with regular changes of stock plugs and you'll be OK on those.

The only thing I'd add is to make sure the brakes and suspension are up to the job.....the stock stuff is a bit near it's limits at this sort of power.
 
Doesn't stage2+ require an uprated intercooler or is that just non-S3 cars?
 
wuta3 said:
Doesn't stage2+ require an uprated intercooler or is that just non-S3 cars?
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I know for a S3 you don't need one but I've got one anyway. Too cheap to turn down :D
 
Uprated or extra intercooler makes a big difference when stg2+!
 
pinterovski said:
Uprated or extra intercooler makes a big difference when stg2+!
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Or water meth fitted both which keep intake temps down,intercooler you can change if you have the money but on stage2+ it should still be ok on the standard i thought ?
 
gilberto said:
What difference does it make, in terms of power/reliability?
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Below Stg3,whilst you do get gains,they're nowhere near as large,but in hot weather,you certainly will notice that the car's performance doesn't drop off.

I ran mine on the stock intercooler,without WMI until Stg3,and under most conditions,you probably wouldn't notice not having them,but under heavy acceleration on a hot day,it's very obvious.

Reliability won't be affected without them.

I change the plugs every 10 000 miles,or less if there are any misfires.
 
audi upgrades
what would happen if you got it mapped to stage 2+ then got the ic fitted after? would it have to be mapped again or can you just bolt a bigger ic on?
 
S3Alex said:
Below Stg3,whilst you do get gains,they're nowhere near as large,but in hot weather,you certainly will notice that the car's performance doesn't drop off.

I ran mine on the stock intercooler,without WMI until Stg3,and under most conditions,you probably wouldn't notice not having them,but under heavy acceleration on a hot day,it's very obvious.

Reliability won't be affected without them.

I change the plugs every 10 000 miles,or less if there are any misfires.
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I might get the plugs changed when it's in for stage 2+ as i think i'm getting occasional missfires at Stage 1. The engine light sometimes flashes for ten seconds when i'm near the limiter. Does that sound like a miss fire?
 
Adamj said:
what would happen if you got it mapped to stage 2+ then got the ic fitted after? would it have to be mapped again or can you just bolt a bigger ic on?
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You can pretty much just get the IC fitted,as nothing else needs to be altered to accomadate it,but it is a sod to fit,and needs the front bumper assembly to be removed.



gilberto said:
I might get the plugs changed when it's in for stage 2+ as i think i'm getting occasional missfires at Stage 1. The engine light sometimes flashes for ten seconds when i'm near the limiter. Does that sound like a miss fire?
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Possibly,yes,but it's worth changing them at the same time as any upgrade like this in any case.
 
^^what alex said. he's a guy with the knowledge.
but must add while additional or larger ic prevents from power drop on hot weather i've noticed that rolling in 3rd and higher gears there is a difference with ic. it keeps going harder/faster than without it.
 
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If i'm up upgrading to a Sachs clutch what flywheel and release bearing do i need?
 
S3Alex said:
You can pretty much just get the IC fitted,as nothing else needs to be altered to accomadate it,but it is a sod to fit,and needs the front bumper assembly to be removed.





Possibly,yes,but it's worth changing them at the same time as any upgrade like this in any case.
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Alex, whats the difference between the Sachs DMF and SMF? do these kits come with flywheel and release bearing?

Cheers
 
gilberto said:
Alex, whats the difference between the Sachs DMF and SMF? do these kits come with flywheel and release bearing?

Cheers
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The DMF will soak up a lot of the engine vibrations and will feel smoother,whereas the SMF is lighter,and a lot harsher,especially at idle,where you will hear and feel more engine thrash.

For high torque applications,the SMF setup is the only way,and for anything above 440lbs,you would need this,but below that you should manage on a DMF as I had with the Sachs organic.

All the kits can be purchased in bits or as full kits,and you should replace the whole lot together ideally.
 
I ran the Sachs clutch with the OEM LUK DMF and it was great, although mine did start slipping after just over a year of hard driving and a few 1/4 mile launches but that is to be expected. With the Sachs kit fitted and DMF you will notice a slightly heavier clutch pedal but it's well worth it for the performance gains.
 
Cheers guys.

The cars going in on Monday for Revo Stage 2+, hope the clutch doesnt pack in on the dyno.
 
So which clutch are you going for then mate?

Let us know how it holds up, I've been looking at the Loba kit but if the Sachs on the standard DMF is good enough then thats much less to spend!

I never do launching starts and drive rather tenderly about. Only time i'd be using full stage 2+ power is overtaking from 3rd gear pulls.
 
coreythorny said:
So which clutch are you going for then mate?

Let us know how it holds up, I've been looking at the Loba kit but if the Sachs on the standard DMF is good enough then thats much less to spend!

I never do launching starts and drive rather tenderly about. Only time i'd be using full stage 2+ power is overtaking from 3rd gear pulls.
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For what it's worth,I used the Sachs with DMF all the way to Stg3 before it eventually gave up at 440lbs.

If you want total reliability I'd go for the Loba,but if you don't rag it,the Sachs/DMF will work.
 
S3Alex said:
For what it's worth,I used the Sachs with DMF all the way to Stg3 before it eventually gave up at 440lbs.

If you want total reliability I'd go for the Loba,but if you don't rag it,the Sachs/DMF will work.
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Sounds a good shout, if not will make a decent get out of jail free cards for a while.
I presume there's not even any point trying to get it mapped on the standard clutch as it will just slip on the dyno?
 
coreythorny said:
Sounds a good shout, if not will make a decent get out of jail free cards for a while.
I presume there's not even any point trying to get it mapped on the standard clutch as it will just slip on the dyno?
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Any decent tuner will know where to get a Sachs kit from.

If they don't,then I would question why.

Most cars are OK at Stg1 on the stock clutch,but most aren't on Stg2.
 
I've got no clutch ordered and it's going in for stage 2+ tomorrow, is there no way i'll get away with the standard clutch?
 
Hi gilberto i ran a standard clutch for a year on stge 2+ revo ,ok i was running 345 bhp and it lasted ,till i traded in for the rs3 :)
 
But put a uprated clutch in and the power is a different story....
 
You can get away with the OEM clutch, my friend ran his like this and it lasted till he sold the car which was over a year but he never really drove the cad hard. As RS3-KEL said its a huge difference with a performance clutch, if I done it again I would run the OEM setup till it gave up then I would change it.
 
Funny thing is i bought a uprated dmf sachs from u david ,but i just wanted to get a rs3 so thats why i sold it on ;)
 
RS3-KEL said:
Funny thing is i bought a uprated dmf sachs from u david ,but i just wanted to get a rs3 so thats why i sold it on ;)
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Yeah I remember you took the lot off my hands, SACHS or an RS3...I know what I would have haha
 
It's done 25,000 miles, I'll let you know how I get on.
 
Mines still on the stock clutch. Went stage 2+ in april and its been fine, I drive it hard at times but never launch it. How long should it be expected to last?
 
s3 th said:
Mines still on the stock clutch. Went stage 2+ in april and its been fine, I drive it hard at times but never launch it. How long should it be expected to last?
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Is that with Revo? What power did you make?
 
gilberto said:
Is that with Revo? What power did you make?
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The average from virtually all of the companies is in the 360-370bhp region with HPFP,CAI and exhaust on the stock turbo.

Thats about the maximum you can expect.
 
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