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Thread: 2.0 tdi 140 rough idle EGR valve throttle body

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    2.0 tdi 140 rough idle EGR valve throttle body

    Hey guys,
    Been having serious rough idle issues with my A3 and also a 'lack of boost' - starts to boost then stops then carries on a few seconds later.

    Anyways - after reading plenty of threads I decided to take off the EGR valve and give that a thorough clean - wouldn't believe how much soot came out!! I did the same with the throttle body while I was there and also the hose directly under the throttle body.

    When starting up it puffed out a lot of black smoke when revving hard - guessing this is a load of soot that's been dislodged?

    Upon taking her for a drive - the boost issue is still there (it may have improved SLIGHTLY - only saying 'may' as I could be just expecting it to have? if this makes sense. Also the rough idle has not improved one bit - it idles at about 820rpm - very juddery on idle - rev counter does not move at all.

    Any one got any ideas what this could be? Driving me mad..!

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  3. #2
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    Anyone got any ideas at all? From what I've read the juddering on idle is pretty common on these so someone must have successfully sorted it out? Cheers in advance

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    You still have a boost leak in the system by the sounds of it

    Check the boost pipes going into the intercooler

    EDIT - reRead; sticking turbo vanes?
    Now a happy owner of an A3 Sportback S Line 170 TDI
    My Posh Golf

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    Boost pipes going into the intercooler are good.
    I was going to look into the sticky vane issue - this is the actuator rod isn't it?
    I was advised that it shouldn't be this, and that only overboost is down to the sticky vane? Correct me if I'm wrong though as I of course want to sort this out! As a side note, is this likely to cause the rough idle? Or just the boost issue?
    Cheers!

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    *Bump*

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    Quote Originally Posted by Rhyso View Post
    You still have a boost leak in the system by the sounds of it

    Check the boost pipes going into the intercooler

    EDIT - reRead; sticking turbo vanes?
    Ive just replaced my DMF and clutch, EGR, MAf, injector loom, throttle body, fiddled with my idle and i still have a rough, juddering loud 2.0tdi, im all out of ideas now?

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    get it scanned and check your injector readings


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    ive scanned it and the injectors are fine, could the leaking boost pipes affect idling?

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    i would not say the idle would be affected, but could be wrong as there many variables!
    just out of curiosity, is your fuel filter newish? and are the pipes to and from this ok?


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    the fuel filter is about 2000miles old now, pipes seem okay yeah

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    Check your torsion value & more importantly the rear cam position. Less than 2mm movement on the rear pulley and these cars idle like cack!
    TDI PD170 S-Line Sportback... 191.2bhp & 290lb/ft torque @ standard with an iffy turbo! No idea with the new one or Shark Stage 1 remap installed, DPF off Stage 1 ready to go, Suspension & wheels to be fitted... Still....

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    Quote Originally Posted by Rodney5950 View Post
    Ive just replaced my DMF and clutch, EGR, MAf, injector loom, throttle body, fiddled with my idle and i still have a rough, juddering loud 2.0tdi, im all out of ideas now?
    Yeah I've replaced Throttle Body and about to change EGR anyway but not holding out much hope this will cure it. Car idle is terrible sometimes - bouncing up and down, getting sick of it doing my head in lol. People say I worry too much about little things, but it's little things that wind me up lol.

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    Quote Originally Posted by max69vk View Post
    Check your torsion value & more importantly the rear cam position. Less than 2mm movement on the rear pulley and these cars idle like cack!
    I'm useless with anything like that- is there anything obvious I can look for when looking at this? Sorry never touched stuff like this before.

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    I have an egr valve for sale if you need 1 only 6 months old inbox me if interested
    Full Leather / heated Seats / 18" Speedlines / AP coilover kit / R32 Rear 310mm Brakes / window Tints / Auto lights / Xenons / Cruise control / R32 Front 345mm Brakes / Full milltek system / Led side lights / Bose / brushed aluminium inlays / panal filter / Full Egr delete / custom map with hot start fix / Hybrid Turbo / Sachs Racing clutch / 10mm Rear spacers / 10mm Front spacers / A5 LED number plate bulbs /

    233 bhp - 309 ft lb - 419 nm




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    Quote Originally Posted by maffew View Post
    I'm useless with anything like that- is there anything obvious I can look for when looking at this? Sorry never touched stuff like this before.
    Have a look on the forum for the VCDS map & it should help you find someone who has the equipment to measure the required readings. To do the job is easy, slacken 3 bolts on the front cam adjust & tighten, then do the same with the rear! Do a seach for torsion value & all will be explained
    TDI PD170 S-Line Sportback... 191.2bhp & 290lb/ft torque @ standard with an iffy turbo! No idea with the new one or Shark Stage 1 remap installed, DPF off Stage 1 ready to go, Suspension & wheels to be fitted... Still....

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    im totally stumped by my car now, i have also replaced throttle body, egr, injector loom, maf,dmf and clutch, ive also blanked the egr and still the same, reason being i still had the egr fault showing although its new, i adjusted the idle speed and its just as bad as before

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    checked timing ? set idle to 800 ? timing out can cause this problem
    Full Leather / heated Seats / 18" Speedlines / AP coilover kit / R32 Rear 310mm Brakes / window Tints / Auto lights / Xenons / Cruise control / R32 Front 345mm Brakes / Full milltek system / Led side lights / Bose / brushed aluminium inlays / panal filter / Full Egr delete / custom map with hot start fix / Hybrid Turbo / Sachs Racing clutch / 10mm Rear spacers / 10mm Front spacers / A5 LED number plate bulbs /

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    i have VCDS, in terms of timing adjustment, is this something i can heck and change myself, i have set idle to 800 but it just jumps up and down from 800-845

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    My torsion Value is 6.6...should this not be 0.05?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Rodney5950 View Post
    My torsion Value is 6.6...should this not be 0.05?
    Should be as close to 0.00 as possible.
    VCDS USER

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    vcds does not show the rear cam settings .
    Full Leather / heated Seats / 18" Speedlines / AP coilover kit / R32 Rear 310mm Brakes / window Tints / Auto lights / Xenons / Cruise control / R32 Front 345mm Brakes / Full milltek system / Led side lights / Bose / brushed aluminium inlays / panal filter / Full Egr delete / custom map with hot start fix / Hybrid Turbo / Sachs Racing clutch / 10mm Rear spacers / 10mm Front spacers / A5 LED number plate bulbs /

    233 bhp - 309 ft lb - 419 nm




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    my mechanic had a check a different bit of kit, hes not sure how to sort it though...can anyone help

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    Quote Originally Posted by Rodney5950 View Post
    My torsion Value is 6.6...should this not be 0.05?
    6.6? Thats right at the edge of adjustment! BKD runs best at 0.5.

    Was this measurement taken when the car was up to fully working temp? If not that will skew things massively. Get him to adjust the front cam pulley to set the torsion value, then visually set the rear cam to match.
    TDI PD170 S-Line Sportback... 191.2bhp & 290lb/ft torque @ standard with an iffy turbo! No idea with the new one or Shark Stage 1 remap installed, DPF off Stage 1 ready to go, Suspension & wheels to be fitted... Still....

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    everywhere ive rung is claiming that this is a 6 hour job and requires a lot of work which just makes me think they wont actually know what they are doing, i will drive anywhere in the country if someone can sort this for me for £ obviously

  26. #25
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    set flywheel mark to TDC THEN MOVE FRONT CAM AND PIN IT THEN MOVE REAR CAM AND PIN IT . TIGHTEN UP
    Full Leather / heated Seats / 18" Speedlines / AP coilover kit / R32 Rear 310mm Brakes / window Tints / Auto lights / Xenons / Cruise control / R32 Front 345mm Brakes / Full milltek system / Led side lights / Bose / brushed aluminium inlays / panal filter / Full Egr delete / custom map with hot start fix / Hybrid Turbo / Sachs Racing clutch / 10mm Rear spacers / 10mm Front spacers / A5 LED number plate bulbs /

    233 bhp - 309 ft lb - 419 nm




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    i havent the tools nor confidence to carry this out myself...how about i pay you to do it :P

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    IVE SEEN IT DONE
    Full Leather / heated Seats / 18" Speedlines / AP coilover kit / R32 Rear 310mm Brakes / window Tints / Auto lights / Xenons / Cruise control / R32 Front 345mm Brakes / Full milltek system / Led side lights / Bose / brushed aluminium inlays / panal filter / Full Egr delete / custom map with hot start fix / Hybrid Turbo / Sachs Racing clutch / 10mm Rear spacers / 10mm Front spacers / A5 LED number plate bulbs /

    233 bhp - 309 ft lb - 419 nm




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    is it something you could do you recon?

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    Full Leather / heated Seats / 18" Speedlines / AP coilover kit / R32 Rear 310mm Brakes / window Tints / Auto lights / Xenons / Cruise control / R32 Front 345mm Brakes / Full milltek system / Led side lights / Bose / brushed aluminium inlays / panal filter / Full Egr delete / custom map with hot start fix / Hybrid Turbo / Sachs Racing clutch / 10mm Rear spacers / 10mm Front spacers / A5 LED number plate bulbs /

    233 bhp - 309 ft lb - 419 nm




  31. #30
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    these sorted my car out for me set timing and then adjusted injector timing
    Rodney5950 likes this.
    Full Leather / heated Seats / 18" Speedlines / AP coilover kit / R32 Rear 310mm Brakes / window Tints / Auto lights / Xenons / Cruise control / R32 Front 345mm Brakes / Full milltek system / Led side lights / Bose / brushed aluminium inlays / panal filter / Full Egr delete / custom map with hot start fix / Hybrid Turbo / Sachs Racing clutch / 10mm Rear spacers / 10mm Front spacers / A5 LED number plate bulbs /

    233 bhp - 309 ft lb - 419 nm




 

 

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