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Thread: 15Degrees-North S3 turbo Race Car build

  1. #41
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    Engine out now and driveshaft off too

    Now I can start to trip the engine and rebuild. Parts are an issue LOL. Like can I have gaskets for a Golf 16 valve head please, certainly Sir what's your Reg Errr. Ok what year is the golf Errrr. What size engine is the golf then Errrr well it's an Audi 2.0 bottom end.

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  3. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by 15Degrees View Post
    Engine out now and driveshaft off too Now I can start to trip the engine and rebuild. Parts are an issue LOL. Like can I have gaskets for a Golf 16 valve head please, certainly Sir what's your Reg Errr. Ok what year is the golf Errrr. What size engine is the golf then Errrr well it's an Audi 2.0 bottom end.
    Surely Dialynx would be a good bet for both parts and help with numbers and so on......it's always a problem when you buy something shall we say "non-standard",but they would be my first place to call as they built it.

  4. #43
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    Anyone know where I can get the timing tools and crank locking pin from please. Audi are useless as they can't search for any part without te reg number which of course I dont have.

  5. #44
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    There aren't any on a 2.0 tfsi or 1.8t, all done on timing marks. How this translates to your engine i'm not sure.

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    Great thread - thanks for sharing. I have to ask where on earth did you find this?? Was it stored in a forest for a few years as that much mess would play havoc with my OCD!!
    "Dont get me wrong. Ugly girls need loving. Just not by me."

  7. #46
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    15Degrees-North S3 turbo Race Car build

    Quote Originally Posted by JamesS4cab View Post
    Great thread - thanks for sharing. I have to ask where on earth did you find this?? Was it stored in a forest for a few years as that much mess would play havoc with my OCD!!
    It's a race car,James!

    You should have seen my Escort Cosworth when I got it.....still had branches in the wheel arches from some forest rally stage.

  8. #47
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    So the engine is out and totally stripped. Sadly one of the pistons is melted I made a note in my diary, it simply said "bugger"




    Nice cams with solid lifters. The head has gone to have the valves re cut by my mate in Peterborough and a very light skim.











    The offending piston, £500 for a new set arse..














    So the block is off to be honed, the head is being cleaned and the valves done and the crank is being polished. Then its all back together with new pistons, rings and shells so it will be a nice new engine when im done.

    Starting tommorow on engine bay clean and then interior strip. Im looking at getting the manifold, downpipe and turbo coated in white.


    More pics to come.


    Mark

  9. #48
    Tay
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    15Degrees-North S3 turbo Race Car build

    Wow this is a very fast moving project! Can't wait to see the end result.
    Are you going to go for a ceramic coating on the manifold & downpipe?

  10. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tay View Post
    Wow this is a very fast moving project! Can't wait to see the end result.
    Are you going to go for a ceramic coating on the manifold & downpipe?
    Yes buddy im looking into to that to see the costs benefits over a good wrap. I will be powder coating selected engine parts and brackets like on my clio build too as it makes the engine bay a much nicer place to work and look at Black is awful and always looks dirty to me.

    I was pleased to see that apart from that one piston the engine is sound and also of very very good quality on the components too. I am going to leave the 4x4 and haldex on at this time because it is wired to be swichable on dash. I am getting a new wifi switch panel for my steering wheel from summit technologies and will wire it into one of the latching buttons.

    The reason for this is we are only allowed 200bhp at the wheels and if I make the car too light FWD only I then run into engine detune issues and melted pistons! So I dont want to take off 150kg of shafts and diffs etc before knowing an accurate power and accurate weight. Also of course having switchable 4x4 does give me advantages off the start line and for the first couple of laps when your rear tyres are cold and then I can turn it off and use it sparingly as of course it's not designed to be on for 60 mins solid lol.


    Mark.

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    Quote Originally Posted by bmh.01 View Post
    There aren't any on a 2.0 tfsi or 1.8t, all done on timing marks. How this translates to your engine i'm not sure.
    How indeed LOL Trying to order anything without a part number or reg number is impossible I have found!

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    Does the transfer box come off the gerbox after undoignt he 4 bolts? It seems tight and dont want to force it if there is something else to undo I cant see?

  13. #52
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    Quote Originally Posted by 15Degrees View Post
    Does the transfer box come off the gerbox after undoignt he 4 bolts? It seems tight and dont want to force it if there is something else to undo I cant see?
    On 8L S3's I normally remove the transfer box... its the 4 bolts plus a really long one down the centre of the flange... requires a special long allen key (6mm IIRC) but of course there is a vag tool for the jobs.. Tool PN is T10107A..

    You can take the box off with it in place but its a ball ache as it gets hung up on the block... can't speak for the TFSI block as not removed a box from one but its a pain on a 20v...

    <tuffty/>
    Silver 2001 AMK S3. Silver alcantara interior... now with added powarrrrrrrr, torques. VAGCOM + KII-USB. >> My build thread...

  14. #53
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    Ok Thanks

    I drained the transfer box of oil, what oil does it take and where is the fill point?

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    15Degrees-North S3 turbo Race Car build

    Sorry to hear about the piston.

    Need to find out how that happened,but sure you already know that.

    Good luck.

  16. #55
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    15Degrees-North S3 turbo Race Car build

    Quote Originally Posted by 15Degrees View Post
    Ok Thanks

    I drained the transfer box of oil, what oil does it take and where is the fill point?
    The fill port is about 3 inches above the drain point. Takes a vag specific oil by the book I believe it's 75w90 but it needs to be a certain type to protect the selectors iirc. The box and transfer box share a common oil supply.

    Box will come on and off with the transfer box on quite easily but if you want to remove it then yes the four bolts and then remove the half shaft on that side as tufty describes.

  17. #56
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    Quote Originally Posted by S3Alex View Post
    Sorry to hear about the piston.

    Need to find out how that happened,but sure you already know that.

    Good luck.
    Yeh it was run on the wrong fuel. Can you tell by looking at the pistons what CR they are? I will take a look and see if there are any numbers on them etc.

    Mark..

    PS

    Stripped out the interior loom today, right dogs dinner LOL. Does anyone know a loom maker that does not charge throusands? wish I could get my head around electrics dohh

  18. #57
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    This car has totally solid engine mounts and dogbone by the way. Got a big box of bits off too the powder coaters on Monday. Paint prep tommorow for the interior now I have the loom out.

  19. #58
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    15Degrees-North S3 turbo Race Car build

    Here's a useful link to find out the compression ratio, you may be able to calculate it with these measurements if you have them ....

    http://www.csgnetwork.com/compcalc.html

    You'll struggle with the look builder, I've done one once for a 106 gti race engine crossover loom once but never tried anything seriously complex. You need a friend who's an car electrician who will help for beer token.

  20. #59
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    I will end up taking it to Troy at Nothampton Motorsport as they do a tidy job.

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    It's a shame your only limited to 200bhp, with a monster like this it's a shame you can't use all of that potential 500bhp and make it a proper glorified monster!

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    Quote Originally Posted by bmh.01 View Post
    The fill port is about 3 inches above the drain point. Takes a vag specific oil by the book I believe it's 75w90 but it needs to be a certain type to protect the selectors iirc. The box and transfer box share a common oil supply.

    Box will come on and off with the transfer box on quite easily but if you want to remove it then yes the four bolts and then remove the half shaft on that side as tufty describes.
    The box and transfer do not share their oil on the newer boxes. They are separate. The fill is around 5cm higher than the drain on the transfer box. Uses a 5 or 6mm allen key to remove the fill bolt.

    Only the older 02M boxes share oil and have the same fill hole.

    Still quicker to remove both style of boxes with the transfer boxes still attached.


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    Quote Originally Posted by smurfworth View Post
    It's a shame your only limited to 200bhp, with a monster like this it's a shame you can't use all of that potential 500bhp and make it a proper glorified monster!
    It's power to weight ratio i think.
    So i would imagine he will run 300ish at the fly maybe 375 if he runs haldex. On the other hand i could be wrong haha

  24. #63
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    Very interesting thread mate. Will be following this one.

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    Yeh would'nt it be nice if I could unleash it Underneath all the grease it is actually a very good car. The cage is awesome.

    Team Trophy is here

    Team Trophy - Team Trophy

    I raced in Track Day Trophy last year and had 2 wins and a 2nd In team trophy we are limited to 200 bhp per ton at the wheels. So my plan is to finish the rebuild and get it weighed as is and then get it mapped as is and see where we are with power to weight.

    Then we can decide if it makes sense to remove the 4x4 or not. I am quite sure all that is at least 150kg. If I did that I would also remove the transfer box and put a blanking plate on then end if needed. Be very light then eh!

    Still this ALL depends on where we are with power and weight as I can't go to low on power otherwise you just have to detune too much and run too rich and have issues with the engine.

    Mark.

    PS
    I am going to build the interior loom myself, I need to learn a new skill and it will also save me thousands over my Clio build where I spent 3 grand on wiring alone!!! My mate is a BMW master tech and said he will help me with it. Going to put a supa copa rear carbon spoiler on it too to make the back look more sexy

    PPS

    Can some one please post some links to the best Audi perfomance parts shops please oh and what mirrors would you run? I also need an interior loom for the plugs, new stalks and some new door mirrors??????

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  27. #66
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    Quote Originally Posted by bmh.01 View Post
    The fill port is about 3 inches above the drain point. Takes a vag specific oil by the book I believe it's 75w90 but it needs to be a certain type to protect the selectors iirc. The box and transfer box share a common oil supply.

    Box will come on and off with the transfer box on quite easily but if you want to remove it then yes the four bolts and then remove the half shaft on that side as tufty describes.
    Oil is 75W90 but for the gearbox needs to be GL4 spec... by all accounts the additives in GL5 spec affects the syncros... the GL5 spec can be used in the rear diff though...

    Not long found this out for myself tbh...

    <tuffty/>
    Silver 2001 AMK S3. Silver alcantara interior... now with added powarrrrrrrr, torques. VAGCOM + KII-USB. >> My build thread...

  28. #67
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    Quote Originally Posted by 15Degrees View Post
    Ok Thanks

    I drained the transfer box of oil, what oil does it take and where is the fill point?
    transfer box takes oil from the main box on 02M... when removing the transfer box you will see there are 2 small seals... the one at the bottom allows oil from the box to enter the transfer box and the one at the top acts as a breather...

    I read you are planning to convert to FWD for this car? (sorry if I missed bits but have skim read on my phone...) the AWD bell housing half of the gearbox is different the FWD housing... has a couple of holes that need plugging :0

    <tuffty/>
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    Silver 2001 AMK S3. Silver alcantara interior... now with added powarrrrrrrr, torques. VAGCOM + KII-USB. >> My build thread...

  29. #68
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    200bhp.. Surely the manifold and turbo options you where talking about would be far from ideal? Fast spooling hold peak boost till the redline ?

    edit :

    just to say great thread and its got my attention, will be following closely.

  30. #69
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    Quote Originally Posted by beachbuggy View Post
    200bhp.. Surely the manifold and turbo options you where talking about would be far from ideal? Fast spooling hold peak boost till the redline ?

    edit :

    Just to say great thread and its got my attention, will be following closely.
    My first turbo car so I have no idea what you just said The car has 3 turbos with it and the one on it is the smallest, a garret. Ill see if it has numbers on it for a size. The car was tuned for 175 bhp at wheels but then it weighed over 1.2 so that was about 240 at wheels with possibly 280 ish at fly.

    This is why i might not take the 4x4 off as then it would make the car too light and screw me on detuning the engine too much!

    The car was originally built as time attack and then used for Track day trophy and now I will use it for team trophy although we are allowed a whole extra 25bhp at wheels Weeeeeee

  31. #70
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    I'm only going on the picture you posted on the 1st page, but the turbo has a pretty large turbine housing which is good for more bhp but considering you only want 200bhp you might benefit from a smaller turbo, having said that you setup isn't the norm and a high reving engine needs a turbo that'll feed at the higher rpms that it'll be living at. 200bhp is quite an achievable figure so running a turbo best suited to the driving done is quite important. Ie do you want a fast spooling turbo capable of making max boost at low rpm like 2k but may struggle to hold boost at 9k or run a laggier turbo that might be slow out of corners but runs more boost at higher rpms...

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    Quote Originally Posted by beachbuggy View Post
    I'm only going on the picture you posted on the 1st page, but the turbo has a pretty large turbine housing which is good for more bhp but considering you only want 200bhp you might benefit from a smaller turbo, having said that you setup isn't the norm and a high reving engine needs a turbo that'll feed at the higher rpms that it'll be living at. 200bhp is quite an achievable figure so running a turbo best suited to the driving done is quite important. Ie do you want a fast spooling turbo capable of making max boost at low rpm like 2k but may struggle to hold boost at 9k or run a laggier turbo that might be slow out of corners but runs more boost at higher rpms...
    Quicker out of corners please

  33. #72
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    You might to have a word with bill@badger5 or tuffty on here as they have a lot experience in this area.

  34. #73
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    Some more pics for you. Shocking wiring! I wil fit a full motorsport loom so not to worry.


    Awfull.










    Pedal box





    Anyone know how to put this back together?





    Tatty engine loom






    The offending piston





    Just needs paint prep now and then ready for spray painting












    A race car in bits

    Last edited by 15Degrees; 27th January 2013 at 22:42.

  35. #74
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    There's something about wiring and some race cars.....my Escort's loom wasn't exactly tidy,but thankfully it was a LOT better than that.
    On the plus side though,you've done a HUGE amount of work already,and when it's completed and running,you'll know not only every inch of the car,but you'll be sure that the wiring etc is as good as you can make it.
    As before,keep the updates coming,and good luck.

  36. #75
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    Any more updates on this car yet?
    RIP S3dave/David Marshall stickers now available
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    Adjustable FPR from 1-5 bar, 2 sets of Unused ARP 3/8 2000 rod bolts, relentless 200 cell cat pipe, Std AGU Crankshaft. Ported & Reconditioned Cylinder head service.

  37. #76
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    Quote Originally Posted by Andrew@A.L.D View Post
    Any more updates on this car yet?
    Yeh I had the norovirus and spewed up for 3 days

    Seriously I am waiting for the pistons to come which have to be custom made sadly. £160 each they are too car is off to the paint shop on Monday for

    Interior white
    Engine bay white
    Sides white
    Bumpers white

    The roof, bonnet and tailgate will be carbon wrap and then i will wrap the sides similar to my old Clio but on a white base.

    I have a massive box of bits back from the powder coaters now all in orange mmmm and the Downpipe, turbo and exhaust manifold have gone to be cermaic white coated.

    I shall hopefully have some pics next week Pistons are 3 weeks ETA sadly.


    Mark.

  38. #77
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    Hope you're feeling better.

    Jeez, you must like a challenge, but i'm sure it'll be worth it in the end.

    I love reading build threads like this.

    Keep up the good work.

  39. #78
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    So I popped to the bodyshop to check on progress. Nearly finished...


























    I think I might get my pistons tommorow. car will be at the shop another week and then it can come back for rebuild. Oh I got my spares package today. My garage is FULL of Audi parts LOL.Will be selling a load of them too. Got a new 1.8 engine, only done 17k.

    I took the decision to refit the steel doors and tailgate. This will help me with the weight and also make the car a bit stiffer. The carbon doors are a bit flimsy and the tops peel back on the straight which is annoying. I might also fit the steel bonnet back on too.
    Last edited by 15Degrees; 1st March 2013 at 22:22.

  40. #79
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    Brilliant work...so much progress in that short time.

    The car already looks much better and deserved all the TLC it's had.

    Best of luck with this,and your coming race season.

  41. #80
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    Yeh its looks so MUCH better now huh. Now I can see my vision for it. My Wossner pistons have arrived Engine building today all day, pics later...

 

 
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