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  1. #1
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    Post Audi A3 2.0 tdi sportback 2007 reg, poor idle issues help!

    Hi everyone,

    I have just joined this forum and its looks good. I would appreciate anyone's help with my new audi I have just purchased. It had a poor idling fault, like a vibration when it's on idle. Normal driving it pulls through all the gears properly and smoothly. Anyway, as it was due a service, I got a major service done by audi at a cost of £298.99 replacing oil, oil filter, air and fuel filter. I thought maybe a clogged fuel filter was maybe the cause. Anyway as I got the car back and started her up, it sounded really quiet and I thought hey presto, it's fixed. That was until I drove for another 5 minutes and the poor idling started again. Tbh, the idling is alot better than before the service so I know there's a good improvement with the service. I was told by the audi dealer, as it had a health check that my clutch was very low bite and heavy. Now correct me if I'm wrong, but a low biting clutch is a newish one as the higher the bite is, the sooner the clutch is on its way out. The bite is as soon as I lift the pedal, it feels powerful enough and drives perfectly. So I don't know why they said that it could be the flywheel causing the vibration and that it with the clutch will need changing soon. Anyway if someone can shed some light on my issues, or guide me with links to other threads, that would be really appreciated. My engine is the BKD engine and I've read that it could be the injector wiring loom that needs replacing to fix the idling problem. Also, the health check came up with some EML codes stored on engine. Something to do with inlet manifold flap motor and cooling fans? I was told its to do with the exhaust system. I read somewhere also, I do alot of reading lol, that the exhaust fumes were going back up the engine which caused the poor idling. Apart from this small issue, it's a brilliant car. It's done 124k for an 07 plate which is high I guess, but it's had Cambelt done on 72k so I was told its due on 140k now so a long time to go before that. Could it be my timing is out as I've read that somewhere as well. Anyway, sorry for the long essay, it's just I've paid 5k for the car and £300 for a service to find out it has all these small issues which is off putting I think. I'm a noob so please any help would be greatly appreciated.

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  3. #2
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    i think its a case of joining the club, the bkd engine seems to have this bad idle, mine has had it since i got it 50k ago
    the car has got 157k now and never miss's a beat,

    i have done the injector harness (no affect)
    i have done the flywheel clutch (no affect)
    i evan cleaned inlet manifold out + egr inlet throttle body and fitter new inlet gasket (no affect)

    sometimes it idles ok but can not put a finger on when it good (hot or cold)

    only thing i have not looked at is a flow meater???

    i did read on here that you can raise the idle on vcom a bit.
    Audi a3 facelift 2011, 19" wheels, s3 side skirts, bkd 163k

  4. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by a3glenn View Post
    i think its a case of joining the club, the bkd engine seems to have this bad idle, mine has had it since i got it 50k ago
    the car has got 157k now and never miss's a beat,

    i have done the injector harness (no affect)
    i have done the flywheel clutch (no affect)
    i evan cleaned inlet manifold out + egr inlet throttle body and fitter new inlet gasket (no affect)

    sometimes it idles ok but can not put a finger on when it good (hot or cold)

    only thing i have not looked at is a flow meater???

    i did read on here that you can raise the idle on vcom a bit.
    Hi thanks for the reply. So what am I supposed to do lol

  5. #4
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    Mine is on 95k. miles ticks over like a sewing machine ever since I 've bought, guess I'm lucky. Bad idling is caused by many things and a bad flywheel is a prime candidate although not something to worry about unless clutch slip is evident. You can fork out hundreds in diagnosis and changing bits and never cure it completely. Checking vacumm hoses in the engine bay for leaks, intercooler pipes, air filter housing, air flow meter sealing, EGR valve(gets clogged often) may help, at least you do that for free. Don't get too hung up on bad idle i'tll drive you mad.

  6. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Soot1 View Post
    Mine is on 95k. miles ticks over like a sewing machine ever since I 've bought, guess I'm lucky. Bad idling is caused by many things and a bad flywheel is a prime candidate although not something to worry about unless clutch slip is evident. You can fork out hundreds in diagnosis and changing bits and never cure it completely. Checking vacumm hoses in the engine bay for leaks, intercooler pipes, air filter housing, air flow meter sealing, EGR valve(gets clogged often) may help, at least you do that for free. Don't get too hung up on bad idle i'tll drive you mad.
    Ok well I was told the rubber seals on intercooler pipe are leaking oil so will get them done. Also inlet manifold flap motor threw up an error code and cooling fans? Can these be reason it idles poorly? Also what is the job of the inlet manifold flap motor?

  7. #6
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    Also the clutch isn't slipping as it feels like a brand new one. Bite is really low so I wouldn't expect that to be going. Can anyone tell me if injector wiring loom could be the culprit? Also, can the flywheel wear out before the clutch or they wear same time?

  8. #7
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    Injector loom is a possible cause, yes.
    Clutch and flywheel, although they are together either can wear quicker than the other, no set pattern there. What doesn't help the flywheel is choosing a too higher gear when you are cruising around at low speeds, depends on how the previous owner drove the car, we'll never know.
    Seepage of oil from the i/c pipe seals, very common on all VAG cars, thats a relatively easy job to diy, won't cure the idle problem.
    As I said before don't go spending megabucks but if idle and driving get worse then you'll have to do something about it.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Soot1 View Post
    Injector loom is a possible cause, yes.
    Clutch and flywheel, although they are together either can wear quicker than the other, no set pattern there. What doesn't help the flywheel is choosing a too higher gear when you are cruising around at low speeds, depends on how the previous owner drove the car, we'll never know.
    Seepage of oil from the i/c pipe seals, very common on all VAG cars, thats a relatively easy job to diy, won't cure the idle problem.
    As I said before don't go spending megabucks but if idle and driving get worse then you'll have to do something about it.
    So should i try to replace the injector loom then? if so, where can i buy one from and a part no. if it has one.

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    tbh, after the service i got done on saturday, the car feels smoother all round. drives brilliantly and nicely. I just need to sort a few small issues but the idle il have to live with. i will try a few small fixes see what that does, starting with the injector loom.

  11. #10
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    As a cheap fix to try, change the alternator clutch pulley. It causes the engine to idle rough as the ecu has to put load onto the alternator by revving the engine. You may notice your interior light may flicker slightly while the engine is doing this... hope this helps

 

 

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