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  1. #1
    Reverse Gear

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    Remap gone wrong? what else could it be? please help

    Hi Everyone, thanks for taking the time to read this and offer some help.

    I drive a 2006 audi a3 2.0tfsi quattro. This thing is my pride and joy and its done 70,000 miles just yesterday.

    I have never had any problems with this car so its pretty annoying. I descided to get my car remapped to get more power and mid range torque.

    I live most of the year out in the alps in europe so spend lots of time on roads that wind up mountains so more power was welcomed for these drives.

    I had my car remapped at custom tuning in bradford after spending weeks on end phoning different people and the guy I was speaking to did a great job in making me beleive he was the best around the area I could travel too.

    I took my car in and they got it straight on the 4 wheel dyno which made a good first impression to myself, they took a reading at first, the car as standard should produce 200bhp and after 6 years of use came out at 199.4bhp and I was amazed that in 6 years it had only lost 0.6 of a bhp.

    They spent id say 2-3 hours on running the car, getting different readings, remapping the car etc until they where happy. After the remap the car was producing 239.6bhp with more torque etc and I was given the print out showing the different results.

    I took the car away and straight away felt the results. At first I sturggled to stick to 30mph as in second gear I wasnt used to the immidiate power and kept running towards the 40mph mark in no time. It took me a good 2 days to get used to the change but I was over the moon, the car felt so different, so much more responsive in every gear and felt like a new car.

    This changed overnight. I got in my car one morning and for some reason was getting what seemed to be a jumping sensation in the car, I was slowly excellerating but the car just couldnt descide what it wanted to do go or slow down. It happens at around 3000 rpm. As soon as the car has been running for 5 mins this stops and the car runs smoothly but until the car is warm, without fail it will jump on accelerating until warm, not just in the morning but after the car hasnt been driven for a few hours.

    I also started noticing that the acceleration seemed to be back to normal and not the remapped acceleration. I started feeling like I had to give the car much more again to acheive not very much and as I said earlier when it was just remapped I couldnt control the acceleration at all it was that punchy. This is a strange one however as the car sometimes feels fast again, but this isnt something that happens often, literally once every few days. No indication on the dash to make me aware of problems.

    I contacted the remap place and they assured me that the ecu could not reset itself unless plugged back into there system and reset by them is this correct? Can it reset itself back to original as thats what it feels like power wize if I ignore the jumping? I the next day got the car in for a service and everything came back fine with the car nothing came up on the dyagnostic reading to make them aware of any problems.

    Took the car into custom tuning and they took it on a road test even though they were supposed to get another reading for me on the dyno to prove it was ok and I was just used to the new power increase (felt like I got fobbed off). They said the car feels great (like they would) and said it feels fast to them, my issue is it is a fastish car anyway before a remap so how do they no its running at the remapped power and not just the original. I really wanted proof it wasnt the remap gone wrong somehow.

    Unfortunatly im back in switzerland now and the car is still jumping when cold and lacking the increased power I first recieved after the remap which I want on these hills. Just want to get to the cause of my problems, Could I reset my ECU? or would this return the settings to factory settings again or screw the car up?

    Any help at all on what It could possibly be would be greatly appriciated, I was advised to unplug my maf sensof to see if this helps the problem, I did this but acheived nothing different.

    Sorry for the bad spelling and grammer, but its 1am here and im tired and bloody fed up of my car being s**t.

    Cheers guys.

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  3. #2
    Brodster's Avatar
    Shark Performance In Scotland

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    I very much doubt the cars ECU has reset itself. If it were to reset and dump the peformance map then there would be no values for it to fall back on. If you can have it scanned this may bring up fault codes so you can take it from there......without knowing what is actually going its like looking for a needle in a haystack.

  4. #3
    1st Gear

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    you should have gone to fr&rtuning FR&RTuning: MAHA Dyno Rolling Road Tuning: Stage 1, 2 & 3 Performance Upgrades they have a maha dyno and you should have got more power than that! take it to them they will have a look, i bet some of the limiters in the software have been missed
    Audi S3 2.0TFSI.. Milltek Turbo-Back Non-Res, ITG maxogen, THS FMIC, HPFP internals, Custom FR&RTuning dyno Software

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  5. #4
    Ash187's Avatar
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    hesitation when cold?? have you had the car checked out? has it been serviced recently?
    Im not too good with these diagnositics but i know that the Map cannot change itself... i would say that something isnt working properly in the engine like spark plugs or a sensor is off.... get the car scanned by a specilist and dont mention the map... just see what they think the fault is.
    A3 Sportback 2.0TDI
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  6. #5
    Ash187's Avatar
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    im no expert but could this be coil pack related??
    A3 Sportback 2.0TDI
    Dark Headlining, Bose, Alcantara Leather, Interior Lights Pack

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    RS3 Grill, 19" RS6, TTRS FBMFSW, A5 S-Line Heated Seats, Bi-Xenons, Auto Lights & Wipers, Eibach Sportlines, Auto Folding & Dimming Dumbo Mirrors, S3 brakes, US Centre Console, Cruise, Pioneer HU, Reverse Camera, OEM Parking Sensors, LED Tail Lights, S3 Pedals, Tints, Carbon Trims.

  7. #6
    eddyd's Avatar
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    Could be lambda/oxygen sensor related. It's in the exhaust and needs to be warm to work correctly. Could be something in the original map to overcome this when cold or could be a faulty sensor.
    I would get it put back to standard and see.

 

 

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