Fuel pressure problem with S3, please help!!

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vijays786

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Hi,

I'm expericing some problems with my car again.

The thruttle is not really responding and the car is shaking and it doesnt have any power.

It takes a long time for the car to get some speed and it's like the car is drowning in fuel.

I connected the computer and it says fuel pressure regulator 2 fail.

And the EDC and Engine lights up in DIS.

I'm trying to locate the Fuel ressure regulator valve, but i'm a little confused.

Can anyone point out where to look. Post a Picture..

That will really help.

fotomotor.png


My Mechanic cant seem to find it.

Some help please.....
 
The high pressure regulator is 3 in the pic. 3 cant be brought (new) seperatly from the HPFP. There is also a fuel rail pressure limiting/regulating valve, that is 10 in the pic however this a mechanical valve that bleeds the rail pressure if it reaches 130bar. There is also a regulator in the fuel filter again this is a mechanical valve and not electronically controlled.

11 is the thrust sensor and is used for sensing the rail pressure.
4 is the low pressure thrust sensor used to measure pressure in the low pressure system.

You really need the full DTC to decided what valve is faulty
 
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s3ollie said:
The high pressure regulator is 3 in the pic. 3 cant be brought (new) seperatly from the HPFP. There is also a fuel rail pressure limiting/regulating valve, that is 10 in the pic however this a mechanical valve that bleeds the rail pressure if it reaches 130bar. There is also a regulator in the fuel filter again this is a mechanical valve and not electronically controlled.

11 is the thrust sensor and is used for sensing the rail pressure.
4 is the low pressure thrust sensor used to measure pressure in the low pressure system.

You really need the full DTC to decided what valve is faulty
Click to expand...


It says:

P2294 on the DTC is that enough to decide it?
 
P2294 Fuel Pressure Regulator 2 Control Circuit/Open

Looks like there is an open curcit. You could try checking the wiring as there maybe a plug off or a break somewhere?
 
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Fuel pressure regulator circuit open.

I'd assume it would be worth starting with part #10, but whilst it's cheap, it's a ***** of a job as its located between the manifold pipes (from memory), so you may need a special or modified tool to do it.
 
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On a side note, have you checked the cam follower recently?
 
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Warren I think the open circuit is refering to an open eletrical circuit. 10 is a mech valve and isnt electronically controlled
 
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I'm told that i need to change item 4 or 11 to get it to work. Is that possible ??
 
It's worth saying that the plastic housing containing wiring from the top of the HPFP can crack...this happened to mine last year,and basically the car has no idea of what the fuelling is doing.

The black plastic at the top of the HPFP is worth checking over for hairline cracks.
 
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S3Alex said:
It's worth saying that the plastic housing containing wiring from the top of the HPFP can crack...this happened to mine last year,and basically the car has no idea of what the fuelling is doing.

The black plastic at the top of the HPFP is worth checking over for hairline cracks.
Click to expand...


Is this what you are talking about?

http://i146.photobucket.com/albums/r248/gu4800/1Large.jpg

Checked it and does not look like thère is any problems with it.

Why is when i go to Audi and say "Fuel pressure regulator valve (open circuit)"
They look at mé like i'm from another planet and they have never heard about this.
And p2294 they dont understand aswell because they use another system.
They use one letter and three numbers as code he told me. Some help....
 
vijays786 said:
Is this what you are talking about?

http://i146.photobucket.com/albums/r248/gu4800/1Large.jpg

Checked it and does not look like thère is any problems with it.

Why is when i go to Audi and say "Fuel pressure regulator valve (open circuit)"
They look at mé like i'm from another planet and they have never heard about this.
And p2294 they dont understand aswell because they use another system.
They use one letter and three numbers as code he told me. Some help....
Click to expand...

That picture you've put up shows a horizontal crack from side to side across the top of the assembly.

You can actually see where there is a gap between the two halves of the plastic fitting,and the top of the assembly should be flat around the hub where the wiring harness enters....that one has a large step in it.

This is exactly what had happened to mine and will mean a new HPFP...don't drive the car in the meantime as it has no idea of it's fuelling,and you could damage it badly.

This is yours that you've posted I hope.

EDIT.....I can see you've got that pic from somewhere else....would have helped if you'd mentioned that.
 
Last edited:
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New pump is £177 from Audi dealers.

Same thing happened to my VVT sensor on old S3 (cracked day before I was doing a road trip to Europe). Had to fit it myself and wasn't 100% straightforward.

There are plenty of guides on here as to how to change the pump so quick search will reveal all.
 
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vijays786 said:
I'm told that i need to change item 4 or 11 to get it to work. Is that possible ??
Click to expand...

11 and 4 are your high and low pressure sensors I doubt replacing them will fix you issue. From the code you have it suggests and open circuit to your regulator, this mean you have either a bad connection, a broken wire, a plug not connected or a bad regulator. You can do a output test for the regulator n276 in the engine module through vcds
 
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S3Alex i'm sorry that i did'nt write that the picture was not mine, it was the only picture i could find.

S3ollie i doubt my mechanic knows how to output test for the regulator n276 in the engine module through vcds.
Anyway guide for this?

I'm getting really frustrated over this problem:keule:. I will try to find out what it might be and still if anyone have some suggestions please do collaborate...

I'm really happy that you guys help so much!
 
Hi vijays where abouts are you from there are some great audi specialists through out the country that would sort this problem out for u , with out you pulling yout hair out..
 
have you checked the relay you replaced is correct and is not loose or any of the wiring in that area has been disturbed?
 
I Have also had some problem with the relays on the car. It could'nt be a Fuel Pump Relay or something like that?

These are the error codes for now
P2294
P0657
P0444

Earlier today
p0657
p0444
p2294
p0031
p0036
 
Gavin0478 said:
have you checked the relay you replaced is correct and is not loose or any of the wiring in that area has been disturbed?
Click to expand...

We think a like Gavin. Garvin Audi changed them for me and had a diagnolist on the car. So i'm guessing he did his job. I picked up the car from Audi when they were about to close and right there it did not seem like the car had any problems. When i left the problem started immediately and Audi was closed. Now they have a long wating, because of the new year :-(
 
Hello there my name is David from the seat forum (hope you don't mind me popping in?)

I drive a seat leon tfsi sport revo stage2+

Anyways...

Sounds very much the same as me mate.

Have you checked your Cam follower
and the piston etc? Any photos aswell?

It's more than likely your going
to need a new High pressure fuel pump!

But check the other things first,
By the way changing the follower will not resolve the issue.
 
Oh some people would advise to change the thrust sensor that is fitted next to the fuel pump...but I don't think from experience its going to be this on your car.

Its very likely to be the N275 sensor which is located on top of the HPFP HOWEVER they don't sell it as a single item, it comes with the pump as complete unit. (annoying)
 
what is this cam follower issue that keeps cropping up?
 
Gavin0478 said:
what is this cam follower issue that keeps cropping up?
Click to expand...

Poor quality design of fuel pump by VAG. cam lobe causes wear on the cam follower tip over time, and if you tend to rev the car the quicker they seem to fail. Worst case scenario is that the cam follower actually wears through.

KMD do an uprated cam follower for about £70 (instead of £25 for OEM), but I'd be worried as it's harder that it may score the cam lobe. I think it's just best to change the cam follower every 20-30k as part of your maintenance programme (get indy to do it as VAG dealers probably won't want to check it as its not on service schedule).
 
does relpacing the internals of the hpfp as it seems you have to do to get to stage 2 increase the wear then?
 
warren_cox said:
Poor quality design of fuel pump by VAG. cam lobe causes wear on the cam follower tip over time, and if you tend to rev the car the quicker they seem to fail. Worst case scenario is that the cam follower actually wears through.

KMD do an uprated cam follower for about £70 (instead of £25 for OEM), but I'd be worried as it's harder that it may score the cam lobe. I think it's just best to change the cam follower every 20-30k as part of your maintenance programme (get indy to do it as VAG dealers probably won't want to check it as its not on service schedule).
Click to expand...

Hey Warren How are you ;) not seen you on the forums for awhile! i hope you are well, I believe I was nagging you before about the Forge catch can! hehe

Ps. I don't know anyone that uses the KMD cam follower, its way too expensive and I don't think its coated.

Everyone sticks to using the oem follower as its still by far the best follower out there, its just annoying to change it.
 
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Gavin0478 said:
does relpacing the internals of the hpfp as it seems you have to do to get to stage 2 increase the wear then?
Click to expand...

Yes, but it seems improved with the later generation internals.

I had KMD internals on my last car and they wore the internals of the pump so badly new seals didn't remedy the fuel leak. I had to have a whole new pump. It was a very early kit, so pre the new version with uprated coating / materials that are used in latest KMD / Autotech kits. The revisions have made them far more reliable.
 
vijays786 said:
S3ollie i doubt my mechanic knows how to output test for the regulator n276 in the engine module through vcds.
Anyway guide for this?
Click to expand...

Go in to the engine module 01 click on output test choose n276 from the list click start test. the regulator should start cycling on and off however if you have an open circuit then it wont work as there is a break somewhere as mentioned
 
Please dont think im post clocking or anything, i understand that on some forums, an email is sent when a new post is made on a thread.....Id just like to know if the OP got to the bottom of this and how it was fixed? 2 years old, i apologise...
 
Could an intermittent p2293 also have to do with a faulty thrust sensor. Also which revision of the sensor is the best for an s3 8p?
 
i have the same issue on mine 8P 2009 S3 at the moment as the plastic sensor on the top is cracked and reading as a broken circuit. i have RS4 internals in my fuel pump and have been told to ideally not remove them and re-fit them as it can be a pain to install them and get them fitted correctly. i have purchased a used fuel pump to hopefully just swap the plastic regulator off the top on to my fitted current one. Although reading here i am now a bit worried then cannot be removed and replaced or is it a case of you can do that it is just that you cannot buy them separately? Does look like they unscrew from the top though?
 
AaronNewton03 said:
i have the same issue on mine 8P 2009 S3 at the moment as the plastic sensor on the top is cracked and reading as a broken circuit. i have RS4 internals in my fuel pump and have been told to ideally not remove them and re-fit them as it can be a pain to install them and get them fitted correctly. i have purchased a used fuel pump to hopefully just swap the plastic regulator off the top on to my fitted current one. Although reading here i am now a bit worried then cannot be removed and replaced or is it a case of you can do that it is just that you cannot buy them separately? Does look like they unscrew from the top though?
Click to expand...
You wont be able to remove the sensor on top off fuel pump , plus if ur running the RS4 valve using a standard pump ain't doing anything . If ur using an upgraded fuel pump then thats fine . As to removing the RS4 valve it's rather simple for a garage to do that and then just go bk to standard S3 valve & pump .

Sent from my SM-G970F using Tapatalk
 
ch1z64 said:
You wont be able to remove the sensor on top off fuel pump , plus if ur running the RS4 valve using a standard pump ain't doing anything . If ur using an upgraded fuel pump then thats fine . As to removing the RS4 valve it's rather simple for a garage to do that and then just go bk to standard S3 valve & pump .

Sent from my SM-G970F using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
i have just checked and it has the autotech internals and the rs4 return valve fitted. So would it be best to strip this pump and re fit the new (used) fuel pump with those internals? cheers
 
AaronNewton03 said:
i have just checked and it has the autotech internals and the rs4 return valve fitted. So would it be best to strip this pump and re fit the new (used) fuel pump with those internals? cheers
Click to expand...
Yip if the new used pump has the upgraded internals just swap them over and u should be fine .

Sent from my SM-G970F using Tapatalk
 
ch1z64 said:
Yip if the new used pump has the upgraded internals just swap them over and u should be fine .

Sent from my SM-G970F using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Sorry i meant the current one has the intenals fitted, my new used one doesnt. would it be easy enough to remove the upgraded parts and re-fit them in the new used pump?
 
update: all fixed now. you can unscrew the pressure regulator off the pumps and switch those. took one of my new used pump and then released pressure in the fuel line on my fitted broken one and then unscrewed the 32mm nut on top and literally dropped in the new one and screwed it back up and put the clip back in and off it went all brand new. so if anyone else has the issue you can buy a pump that may be even broken for cheap and swap the top plastic part. a tuning company locally to me said you can actually source cheap aftermarket replacements online if you wanted to and yours kept breaking to avoid keep buying pumps to replace them. thanks again guys
 
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Glad you fixed it.
These top sensors couldn't be sourced on their own for ages.
Lately i've seen them on amazon. Since it's easily broken i'm surprised that only now replacement part is made and sold.
 
Have to say when i posted here about top off fuel.pump not being able to be removed i was under the impression they couldn't so it's news to me now they can . But its good news for all.
Op any chance u can pop up a pic or 2 off the bits u removed cheers

Sent from my SM-G970F using Tapatalk
 
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