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  1. #1
    Dannykn9's Avatar
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    Question Which pin is "Switched +12V ACC" on rns-e quadlock?

    Hi guys, merry Christmas all.

    Really racking my brains out here!!
    I bought a T-era mmi adapter which came with a dension ice lite kit, bought from a fellow member here.
    Now I have wired up the mmi to the quadlock on my Rns-e no probs, but have now come to a hurdle with the dension lite. It has three wires to be hooked up, one wire to ground (pin 12) one wire to constant 12v (pin 15) and here is the one I am stuck on...one wire to "switched 12v ACC" Ingnition I think?
    There does not seem to be a pin/feed for this on the quadlock, and all I can find on the net is because the rns-e is canbus so is controlled from there.
    So where and how shall I connect this wire to a switched live?

    It is driving me "crackers"(Christmas punch line) sad I know, sorry!

    Incase anyone asks what set up I have, it is Bose, oem Bluetooth, rnse mk 2, multifunction wheel.

    All help much appreciated

    Thanks
    VCDS Owner-North London/Enfield
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  3. #2
    NHN
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    You could do 2 things, wire both to the constant if the said kit isnt using much current at idle or run a switched supply of a fuse point which are fuses 1-11 on fuse box.

    Call me anal, but I'd prefer the latter & use a spare fusepoint instead of piggybacking an existing as each point is designed for specific job/rating, so better not chance adding more load to a circuit.

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    Cheers Nigel, much appreciated for the info.
    If I run it to the fuse box, would I need. 12v 30a 4 pin?

    Cheers
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  5. #4
    NHN
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    Not sure what the 4 pin referral is mate, but iirc you'd need a mini fuse if using the fuses 1-11, a repair wire that would suit the spare location & I'd say a 5a max fuse given its probably a small load on that unit, should be fine, but check the unit power specs.

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  6. #5
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    I never ran it to the fuse box, just connected it to one of the the quadlock wires. Did the radio on wire not work (13)?

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    No mate, the problem with pin D13 is it is not an ignition 12v switch, therefor the iPod is not being charged and turning on an off as it is suppose too.
    I managed to run a wire to fuse box but the fuse blew (5amp mini)
    I am now just trying to locate another bigger fuse free slot and connect a 30amp fuse.
    But problem is trying to find a 12v switched!!!
    It is driving me crazy.
    Maybe some here knows which spare fuse slot would be a 12v switched and to connect a 30 amp?
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  8. #7
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    D: Power Connector
    9 - CAN-H (CANbus High signal)
    10 - CAN-L (CANbus Low signal)
    11 - TEL-Mute (Telephone mute connection)
    12 - Kl.31 (Primary ground connection)
    13 - U14 ST DSP (Radio On) (Provides a switched ignition-out source to turn on rear amplifier (bose too) or "remote" lead for an aftermarket amp)
    *14 - DWA-GND (Alarm ground)
    15 - Kl.30 (Constant 12V power source)
    16 - U14R-1 (N.C.)

    So i think 15 for RED
    And maybe 13 for PURPLE
    Last edited by roman3000; 26th December 2011 at 15:50.

  9. #8
    Dannykn9's Avatar
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    I understand what your saying mate, I have tested in d13 and although it does charge the iPod, it is not switched to ignition, and it always stays on charge even when the key is out.
    I provisionally got it to work running the wire to the fuse box in fuse position 5 which is a mini slot and the fuse soon blew. Think I need a bigger fuse slot with a higher amp.
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    Doesn't the unit stay on for a few minutes after you pull the key out though? Im sure it does. It take around 2 mins for it to turn off.
    It just seems a lot of work to get it working.
    Last edited by roman3000; 26th December 2011 at 16:15.

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    NHN
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    You're confused roman, the rns power is permanent but the on/off operation is controlled via canbus, so connecting his ipod kit that has no canbus connection to the rns perm power will not switch of at all.

    I cant see how that ipod unit is blowing a 5amp fuse, I really cant see that at all, what was the power rating of the ipod kit, check the side of the unit or on the box.

    Also, when you say you connected it to a 5a fuse, was that connected to an existing wire or new one, if it as on an existing, then you probably blew because the total of the systems on that fuse point plus the ipod kit went over the 5a rating, dont stick a 30a on an existing circuit just to allow it to hold more current, that is a mistake as any shorts or issues on an existing circuit will allow the wire to cook with a 30a total, could result in fire.

    Fit a fuse that will be the nearest above the rated power specs of the ipod kit, that way if it shorts it will blow with a safety method in place as such.

    As advised, ignition is switched on fuses 1-11.

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    Dannykn9's Avatar
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    I used a new wire, so only running the iPod, Dension Ice link. Just to test, I wrapped the wire around the bottom blade of fuse and inserted to fuse 5. 7-11 are all blank with no connection at all in the fuse box.
    The dension does not say the amp rating, I'll have a quick look on the net and report back.
    A
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    Nige, this is what I found if you can make sense of it.
    Also I think I forgot to mention that it is a dension ice lite AV kit connected through a mmi type box.
    Being an AV so I can watch videos from an iPod would I not require a higher fuse amp.
    Here is technical info I found

    TECHNICAL DATA
    Dimensions: 104x30x30mm
    Power supply: 9-16 V DC
    Active / Standby current: <75 mA / 0 mA
    Operating / Storage temperature: -20 - +70 C / -40 - +90 C
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    Well then what about connecting it to one of the can bus wires, so it knows when the unit is on.
    I had this unit installed in my car Nigel, it charged the ipod when it was on and stopped when the rnse was tuned off. I just cant remember which wires i conneced it to, it just seems a lot of fuss with the fuses and things to get it working when i was able to do it without them.
    I think it might have been to the canbus wires (C-bus high), because i remember having a couple of wires attached to one quadlock wire, one from the multimedia adaptor and one from the dension av link.
    So wires 9 and 15, no?

    Heres the wiring for the multimedia adaptor too.

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    Dannykn9's Avatar
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    I'll give it a try in week and let you know roman. Cheers for the diagram.
    I am sure I have read somewhere that it is not correct to connect to canbus as it will still draw power thus daring the battery. I'll give it go, will try options available.
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    Yeah keep this thread updated.

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    The CANBUS is a data line it does not provide any sort of 12v feed.
    If your new 12v feed blew a 5amp fuse then there was something wrong with your wiring. The Dension will not draw anywhere near 5amps. As Nige has said DO NOT use a bigger fuse. The fuse is rated for the wiring guage it protects. A 5 amp fuse is protecting a 5amp circuit. Putting a bigger fuse in will allow that circuit to draw a larger current if there is a short or failure in anything connected to it. A larger fuse will not blow and instead the wiring will catch fire and eventually act as its own fuse once your car is ablaze - not a good idea
    Using Pin 13 (Radio On) is also a bad idea. Pin 13 is just a trigger feed to turn on a relay, it is not man enough to feed power directly to an accessory. To use pin 13 you need to wire a relay from the perm live and use the feed from pin 13 to trigger the relay.
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  18. #17
    NHN
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dannykn9 View Post
    I wrapped the wire around the bottom blade of fuse and inserted to fuse 5. 7-11 are all blank with no connection at all in the fuse box.
    So basically you used fuse 5 that is already in use?

    Quote Originally Posted by Dannykn9 View Post
    Also I think I forgot to mention that it is a dension ice lite AV kit connected through a mmi type box.

    Active / Standby current: <75 mA / 0 mA
    Ah so you have the dension unit & the media adapter, connected to the same power feed, what load is the media adapter requiring?

    Also, either the media adapter is a high load or something is up with your wiring or the circuit you tested on fuse 5 is already near to 5a & the 75ma plus media adapter pushed it over, cause 75ma is nothing overall & I cant imagine the media adapter needs allot more.

    Quote Originally Posted by roman3000 View Post
    Well then what about connecting it to one of the can bus wires, so it knows when the unit is on.
    I had this unit installed in my car Nigel, it charged the ipod when it was on and stopped when the rnse was tuned off.
    Thats cause that unit uses canbus imho for signal for power on/off with the rns-e, otherwise why would it have can wiring.

    Quote Originally Posted by AndyMac View Post
    The CANBUS is a data line it does not provide any sort of 12v feed.
    If your new 12v feed blew a 5amp fuse then there was something wrong with your wiring. The Dension will not draw anywhere near 5amps. As Nige has said DO NOT use a bigger fuse. The fuse is rated for the wiring guage it protects. A 5 amp fuse is protecting a 5amp circuit. Putting a bigger fuse in will allow that circuit to draw a larger current if there is a short or failure in anything connected to it. A larger fuse will not blow and instead the wiring will catch fire and eventually act as its own fuse once your car is ablaze - not a good idea
    Using Pin 13 (Radio On) is also a bad idea. Pin 13 is just a trigger feed to turn on a relay, it is not man enough to feed power directly to an accessory. To use pin 13 you need to wire a relay from the perm live and use the feed from pin 13 to trigger the relay.
    Couldnt of said it better myself

    Dan, do a proper job fella & that will not only give you peace of mind, but save yourself the hassle of blowing a fuse on a circuit that runs some vitals systems for the car to run & thus you cant find a replacememt fuse whilst on the road.

    Grab a repair wire from audi, fill fuse 7 & use this for the job, for me, that is your best option.

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  19. #18
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    I've got a Bury hands free kit wire into my 57 plate sports back, it switches on and off with the ignition switch. I bought the car with it fitted, but I'll have a look to see if I can see where it's wired to at the weekend if it'll help.
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  20. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by NHN View Post
    So basically you used fuse 5 that is already in use?


    Grab a repair wire from audi, fill fuse 7 & use this for the job, for me, that is your best option.
    I would fill fuse 7 BUT , on the row 7-11 there is no connection plate, only on the top row fuse 1-6.
    So even if i get a repair wire from audi, although the 5amp fuse will connect to the repair wire, there will be no connection for the top blade of the fuse. It seems I will have to get a whole new 12v ignition feed to fuse 6-11, which frankly is beyond me!!

    what about if i ran it from fuse 6 which will be on the same circuit as my current fuses in use but will leave a free slot inbetween??

    I will get some pictures up soon and a drawing of how i wired everything up, and also a picture of my fuse box.
    Last edited by Dannykn9; 27th December 2011 at 10:56.
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    Can i just say, I am overwhelmed by all the help you have all given me, and agree with not using a bigger fuse.
    I feel I am now in the right direction, with big big help from you guys. It is all very much appriciated.

    This is what makes ASN stand out from the rest, with help from guys like you. A big thanks

    Now i'll get back to the drawing board and get some pics.
    Last edited by Dannykn9; 27th December 2011 at 07:49.
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  22. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by coxy8329 View Post
    I've got a Bury hands free kit wire into my 57 plate sports back, it switches on and off with the ignition switch. I bought the car with it fitted, but I'll have a look to see if I can see where it's wired to at the weekend if it'll help.
    That would be great mate. Thanks
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  23. #22
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    Right ok, i have managed to do a scetch of how everything is connected, plus i also took som pics of my fuse box with available slots.

    Connection diagram (please note that i tapped into the wires going to the relevant D pins.



    Fuse box showing available slots. You can see that 7-11 have no 12v connection plate.



    My whole fuse box, plus fuse lid with discription.




    Hope this is now of more sense guys.

    Thanks
    Last edited by Dannykn9; 27th December 2011 at 10:42.
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    Would anyone know what the part number for the repair wire to the fuse box is, for the mini fuse and standard fuse or is it the same repair wire?

    Cheers
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    Dannykn9's Avatar
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    Managed to get the correct repair wires, so now I have wired up to my fuse box. Have everything wired up.
    Now my problem is I get full sound but no video on my rns- e, I just get a blue screen.
    I have coded module 19 to say tv module installed and also 37 again to say I have a tv module.

    Anyone else experience this problem and no a solution.
    I have tested with my iPhone 4s and iPod nano 5th gen.

    I feel I am almost there but not quite yet there!!
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    Hi Danny, did you get this sorted out? What did you use for switched accessory feed? I am having the same problem in a B7 A4...

  27. #26
    NHN
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    Switched feed needs to be from the fuse box tbh, as a new connection, so as to not overload a circuit already allocated on other car systems.

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    Hi NHN, I know, but that is the problem, there are no switched accessory lines in the fuse box, they are all either always hot, or switched ignition ????

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    Dannykn9's Avatar
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    Which pin is "Switched +12V ACC" on rns-e quadlock?

    Hi mate, yeah I did sort this out.
    As Nigel said, you will need a new switched feed from the side fuse box. The switch feed is same as the switched ignition.
    The top two rows are your switched feeds iirc, and take mini fuses. You need the correct repair wire for a mini fuse.
    I connected the wire to a blank slot on the first row I think.
    You will need to drop out the fuse box an disconnect from its housing to be able to insert the wire from behind.
    When all is done, then a 5amp mini fuse should be enough.
    I will get the part number for the repair wire when I get a moment.
    Last edited by Dannykn9; 9th September 2012 at 11:16.
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    Right, after looking at pictures I posted further up on this thread, I used slot 6 as my switched connection. You can see that there is already a connection plate in place, so all that is needed is the repair wire to complete the circuit once the 5amp fuse is in place.
    Hope this makes sense mate.
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    Thanks Danny, is yours a B7? I could not find a switched accessory circuit on the fuse panel. Now I have installed a fused relay, tapped into permanent live for the relay, and switched the relay with D13 from the RNS-E, seems to be working fine.

  32. #31
    NHN
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    No Danny has an 8P mate so not a B7.

    There will be ignition witched in fusebox mate or is this not good enough?

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    ignition switched is easy, but no good - I wanted accessory switched. Now I have my MMI switched by RNS-E power, so it is on whenever RNS-E is on, perfect.

  34. #33
    NHN
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    What MMI?

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    Quote Originally Posted by NHN View Post
    What MMI?
    T-ERA

 

 

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