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  1. #81
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    what do you mean ???




    Quote Originally Posted by a8 tech View Post
    make sure your vcds has a name and number in the user settings identifcation

    eg a8 tech 00456
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    233 bhp - 309 ft lb - 419 nm (NEEDS A NEW MAP)




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  3. #82
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    Quote Originally Posted by tdi-man View Post
    just checked in options . shop name is empty.

    code(ws) 00000
    vz 000
    equip number 00000
    just enter some data for the shop name and equip number as some controllers will not allow coding etc if the vcds has no data filled

  4. #83
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    ok will do put vcds lead away now raining here.....

    use to work on an old 812.4 lead
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    233 bhp - 309 ft lb - 419 nm (NEEDS A NEW MAP)




  5. #84
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    if i pull vacuum pipe of egr dia and seal end of pipe with bolt as a temp measure will that shut egr of ?????





    Quote Originally Posted by a8 tech View Post
    consider the valve timing on the exhaust cam check mvb's torque figure not by using the timing tools as its not unknown for the cambelt to be set up correctly but when you adjust the tension you pull on the exhaust cam pulley and mvb 4 if I remember will show the correct value, drain the fuel from the filter housing and poor it into a glass and check for soot.If there is soot/oil present if its soot then remove the injectors and inspect the cylinder head seats very carefully if pitted post photos
    injector readings in mvbs will always vary but a true test is to check fuel pressure at the tandem pump as well as delivery rate

    other options when running issue occurs increase or decrease pre fuel pressure and reduce egr flow to see if this balances the combustion more smoothly

    so valve timing, fuel pressure, egr flow plus check air pressure and quantity readings if possible and if one cylinder deviates in mvb for injectors then there may be some mechanical issue but after saying all this egr bounce can cause this symptom but with the correct tools you can delete egr function allowing more clean air into the combustion

    how to check valve timing with vcds
    Display group 4

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    880 /min
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    6.34 THIS MUST BE AROUND 2.5 FOR CORRECT VALVE TIMING
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    233 bhp - 309 ft lb - 419 nm (NEEDS A NEW MAP)




  6. #85
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    If its only at idle then disconnect the air mass as this will shut egr off but mil will come on
    You can blank the egr to test it but this will put the mil on for egr through put to small
    You mentioned the remap and egr off solution also
    If you just wish to eliminate egr the try either the airmass disconnect or egr blank
    Please note without seeing the problem I must advise you that if its not excessive it may not be a major problem but just the combustion process causing the lumpiness due to egr bounce (dirty air)
    If disabling egr sorts it out then your left with the fact that you will have no N0X regulation and you are polluting the atmosphere.
    I'm not one to preach just highlighting the point
    Let us no how it goes

  7. #86
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    ok many thanks for that ive been looking for answers to this probelm for ages.

    is egr bounce a common fault ??

    just updating brakes this week then will think about the remap and egr blank of in map.

    i will try air mass disconect over the week end and see what happens.
    Full Leather / heated Seats / 18" Speedlines / AP coilover kit / R32 Rear 310mm Brakes / window Tints / Auto lights / Xenons / Cruise control / R32 Front 345mm Brakes / Full milltek system / Led side lights / Bose / brushed aluminium inlays / panal filter / Full Egr delete / custom map with hot start fix / Hybrid Turbo / Sachs Racing clutch / 10mm Rear spacers / 10mm Front spacers / A5 LED number plate bulbs /

    233 bhp - 309 ft lb - 419 nm (NEEDS A NEW MAP)




  8. #87
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    Quote Originally Posted by NHN View Post
    I knew I was going to enjoy you being a new member, knowledge is a good thing on any forum for all, lmfao.

    I have a question, A3 sportback, 2.0 tdi, possible mechatronic having a hissy fit, but when started up 1st thing & go to pull away, you stick in drive, put foot on gas it falters/hangs at 8-900 rpm as in idle & takes a fair few seconds to come alive even if you floor it the revs dont pick up at all, sat at idle almost even if foot down on gas pedal, then all of sudden revs kicks in & all good usually for rest of day or until left sitting for a while again, now if I was to start car 1st thing from cold, then leave in park & give it a good blast on the pedal for a few seconds so revs are up, then stick into drive it would drive of normal revving fine no delays.

    Any ideas as I'm leading to mechatronic atm, but tried fuel filter, checked under bench pump is feeding fine to the filter, could try tandem & injectors, but why would it once revved few times then work perfectly, would the mechatronic affect the car in that way so much if on way out?

    Thanks in advance.
    reading this again I have thought of another possible cause

    So you feel there may be some engine issue?

    We need fuel pressure and max airflow plus throttle position correct fuel and coolant readings as theses are all affected by resistance then any deviation could cause incorrect response

    ie idle at the pedal is 0.5 volt and full throttle is 4.5 volt leaving .5 volt either end for fault recognition feedback

    Possible woffle but throttle pedal readings may be a possible

    As it start first time then the pressure is fine but is the air or throttle response correct

    The throttle position can be reset if I recall also you could check the mvb for throttle position end stops at the accelerator peddle

    so if the pedal readings match in the engine ecu and dsg and the gear recognition is correct check rpm input in the box and this could eliminate engine related problems and highlight the mechatronic rpm input or clutch flare up

    If this is bllocks then ignore me lol
    Last edited by a8 tech back; 5th April 2011 at 20:33.

  9. #88
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    yes egr bounce is consequential of the process for reintroducing burnt air although the ecu knows its coming into the combustion process its like drinking a nice pint and near the end you get a few floaters lol

  10. #89
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    another idea is what what happen if you turn the alan key setting up in the tandem pump ?
    Full Leather / heated Seats / 18" Speedlines / AP coilover kit / R32 Rear 310mm Brakes / window Tints / Auto lights / Xenons / Cruise control / R32 Front 345mm Brakes / Full milltek system / Led side lights / Bose / brushed aluminium inlays / panal filter / Full Egr delete / custom map with hot start fix / Hybrid Turbo / Sachs Racing clutch / 10mm Rear spacers / 10mm Front spacers / A5 LED number plate bulbs /

    233 bhp - 309 ft lb - 419 nm (NEEDS A NEW MAP)




  11. #90
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    Lost me there, the only alan key i recall is the port to check the fuel pressure

  12. #91
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    oh was told you can turn the presure up and down by adjustment on tandem pump ?

    not sure if this would put fueling up ?
    Full Leather / heated Seats / 18" Speedlines / AP coilover kit / R32 Rear 310mm Brakes / window Tints / Auto lights / Xenons / Cruise control / R32 Front 345mm Brakes / Full milltek system / Led side lights / Bose / brushed aluminium inlays / panal filter / Full Egr delete / custom map with hot start fix / Hybrid Turbo / Sachs Racing clutch / 10mm Rear spacers / 10mm Front spacers / A5 LED number plate bulbs /

    233 bhp - 309 ft lb - 419 nm (NEEDS A NEW MAP)




  13. #92
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    not aware of this

  14. #93
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    ok i will ask chap tomo and post info...
    Full Leather / heated Seats / 18" Speedlines / AP coilover kit / R32 Rear 310mm Brakes / window Tints / Auto lights / Xenons / Cruise control / R32 Front 345mm Brakes / Full milltek system / Led side lights / Bose / brushed aluminium inlays / panal filter / Full Egr delete / custom map with hot start fix / Hybrid Turbo / Sachs Racing clutch / 10mm Rear spacers / 10mm Front spacers / A5 LED number plate bulbs /

    233 bhp - 309 ft lb - 419 nm (NEEDS A NEW MAP)




  15. #94
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    My tick over is getting worse - left work at lunchtime and it was all over the place.

    Left to come home tonight and my tick over raised itself to 1000RPM - weird.

  16. #95
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    ok guys so ive just replaced the second coolant sensor, the car started fine right untill it got up to full temperature then it struggled again . but i noticed that when the climate control is switched off the engine judders really bad, but when i switch it on its perfectly fine and the engine runs like normal. so its confusing me a little now as to what it can be as surely it would be doing it all the time either with or without the climate control on?

    any help appreciated. cheers

    Dan

  17. #96
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    Ok guys so ive just replaced the second coolant sensor, the car started fine right untill it got up to full temperature then it struggled again . would you guys say its a new starter motor now or could it be something else?

    Also i noticed that when the climate control is switched off the engine judders really bad, but when i switch it on its perfectly fine and the engine runs like normal. so its confusing me a little now as to what it can be as surely it would be doing it all the time either with or without the climate control on?

    Any help appreciated. cheers

    Dan

  18. #97
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    turning the a/c starts a chain of command

    from the top of my head

    a/c signals to j519 then to engine ecu to boost the idle to allow extra load demand and the alternator monitors this via a df signal pulse width modulation to the engine ecu

    adjust the base idle to the higher value

    poor warm starting

    possible cranking rpm below 250 rpm caused by increase wear on the starter or high resistance on the starter cables or battery which in turn stops the injectors opening because the engine ecu does not recive the correct rpm speed

    also poor tandem pump residual pressure

    check with vcds the engine cranking speed when warm

  19. #98
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    Ok that doesn't mean much to me lol I'm not that technically minded .
    What do you think would solve the problem of the rough idling when the aircon is off?

    Would you say replacing the starter motor would fix the struggling to start when hot?

  20. #99
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    Ok that doesn't mean much to me lol I'm not that technically minded .
    What do you think would solve the problem of the rough idling when the aircon is off?

    Would you say replacing the starter motor would fix the struggling to start when hot?

  21. #100
    NHN
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    I'd go with new/replacement starter for warm issue, usually old starter suffers from heatsoak of the gearbox, as its fairly simple to change, then do yourself, as cost of replacing in labour with audi would be same as the part, I've done both my cars & the difference in starting was vast.

    Now as we're on a forum, we're speculating, so nobody can guarantee your issues are this, but based on fair few others, new starter can only be a positive step anyway.

    Gizmo, before clicking POST again, wait a little bit longer as you keep double posting.

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  22. #101
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    Yeah I'm just asking on here as I know there's some very kNowledgeable people on here and alot of people have had the idling problem so trying to gain from their experience of what solved it.

    Sorry about the double posting I am only clicking it once but I'm viewingon my phone so it must be that.

    How would I adjust the base idle? Is this a proper fix or just a shortcut way out?

    Thanks

  23. #102
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    ok so i've just fitted a new starter motor in the a3 to try n fix the starting problem and...nothing! if anything its got worse and obviously its still juddering :'( any more advice please guys?

    thanks in advance

  24. #103
    NHN
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    Urmmm thats interesting, so ok give us a list of what you've done so far please.

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  25. #104
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    ok....not a lot really but, new injector wiring loom, new coolant temperature sensors and now new starter motor, new fuel filter, cleaned out EGR valve and thats about it i think.... any ideas?

    EDIT: oh and a new throttle body

    iv read about it being a the battery? is it worth getting it tested?
    Last edited by gizm0; 26th April 2011 at 20:01.

  26. #105
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    You really need to confirm the problems with some evidence before replacing things

    I would only replace the starter if the cranking rpm was below 250 rpm and in the knowledge the battery is in order plus the engine /gearbox earth and the starter wire

    You need to check the fuel pressure and also the injectors values

    Also check the fuel for soot

    Using vcds check your measured value blocks 13 for injectors and also try and use the advanced mvb feature so you can see fuel, air and coolant temp at the same time and also air volume and egr

    Also include the valve timing reading

    This will show you what's going on because your description points towards low cranking rpm or insufficient fuel delivery/pressure

    I understand its hard but its even harder to explain from a lap top

  27. #106
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    ok thanks so how do i get vcds? have you got a link so i can buy it?


    also the fuel was black when the filter was changed so it was flushed to clear it up and its a lot better now

  28. #107
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    could i have fitted anything wrong on the new starter o anything to have made it stugle?

  29. #108
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    flushing will only remove the current deposits, you need to establish if there is soot present in the fuel which indicates combustion blow pass from pitted cylinder head injector seats or poorly seated injectors/ seals

    nhn sells vcds

  30. #109
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    Thanks A8, yes I do sell the genuine vcds PM if interested.

    Also if a battery is on the menu, then I suggest an uprated version that audi do supply, Varta Ultra Silver Dynamic, fits the 8P perfectly & certainly better than the stock Varta Blue they fit.
    Last edited by NHN; 26th April 2011 at 20:22.

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  31. #110
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    ....and now the ESP light and the power steering light are on

  32. #111
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    TBH A8 is very knowledgable, he's right & I dont want to seem like I'm hunting for a sale, but vcds would be helpful atm for you, considering audi's hourly rates would pay for that in 2-3 hours mate.

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  33. #112
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    Quote Originally Posted by gizm0 View Post
    ....and now the ESP light and the power steering light are on
    If the battery has been disconnected this is normal. drive for a few hundred yards and they should go off.

  34. #113
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    I understand, and i know it would be worth it, just didnt really want to spend that kind of money at the moment. Are there any places that test them and get all the stats the Vcds give, (apart from Audi obviously) Better still, anyone local that could test it for me

  35. #114
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    Quote Originally Posted by gizm0 View Post
    I understand, and i know it would be worth it, just didnt really want to spend that kind of money at the moment. Are there any places that test them and get all the stats the Vcds give, (apart from Audi obviously) Better still, anyone local that could test it for me
    Check the VCDS members list in NHN signature

  36. #115
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    Quote Originally Posted by mike foster View Post
    If the battery has been disconnected this is normal. drive for a few hundred yards and they should go off.

    thats a relief as the battery was disconnected.

    thanks

  37. #116
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    Ah you didnt say you'd disconnected battery yet, lol, good call Mike.

    TBH mate which ever garage you go for diag etc will cost you, yes a local vcds member is great, but what happens when you need to do more tests, without being funny people are nice, but when you need it for a prelonged periods & more than once, its a stretch for allot of people as they're busy with family/work etc, of course most are glad to help, but convenience plays a big role here, as I'm sure Mike & all who own will advise & no waiting for results.

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  38. #117
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    when car is sat idling open bonnet is engine juddering ?
    if yes look down towards left side where alternator is just below alternator is a tensioner is this vibrating back and fourth ?
    is yes then the pulley on the end of your alternator is knackered the bearing is seized , this can cause starting problems and the shuddering

    the price is 24 quid including vat from tps , but you need a special spline bit to remove it

    are you in south yorkshire by any chance ?

  39. #118
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    Quote Originally Posted by NHN View Post
    Ah you didnt say you'd disconnected battery yet, lol, good call Mike.

    TBH mate which ever garage you go for diag etc will cost you, yes a local vcds member is great, but what happens when you need to do more tests, without being funny people are nice, but when you need it for a prelonged periods & more than once, its a stretch for allot of people as they're busy with family/work etc, of course most are glad to help, but convenience plays a big role here, as I'm sure Mike & all who own will advise & no waiting for results.
    yeah i understand that, i just cant afford that at the minute so ill have to wait i guess

    Quote Originally Posted by hollow View Post
    when car is sat idling open bonnet is engine juddering ?
    if yes look down towards left side where alternator is just below alternator is a tensioner is this vibrating back and fourth ?
    is yes then the pulley on the end of your alternator is knackered the bearing is seized , this can cause starting problems and the shuddering

    the price is 24 quid including vat from tps , but you need a special spline bit to remove it

    are you in south yorkshire by any chance ?
    just been out to check that and the pulley looks fine...unfortunatly lol

    no i'm from b'ham mate

  40. #119
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    Quote Originally Posted by NHN View Post
    TBH mate which ever garage you go for diag etc will cost you, yes a local vcds member is great, but what happens when you need to do more tests, without being funny people are nice, but when you need it for a prelonged periods & more than once, its a stretch for allot of people as they're busy with family/work etc, of course most are glad to help, but convenience plays a big role here, as I'm sure Mike & all who own will advise & no waiting for results.
    Have to agree - in the long run you will find that you need/want to use it more and more.

    For a one-off test ask someone by all means but sounds to me like you may need continued VCDS help and diagnosis !

  41. #120
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    dont look at the pulley on the alterator , check the tensioner block just below and to the back of it .

    oil in the fuel means that either the tandem pump is knackered or injector seals are

 

 
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