Sky InsuranceEM Tuning
Results 1 to 39 of 39
Like Tree1Likes
  • 1 Post By Welly

Thread: Advice on removing secondary air pump please!

  1. #1
    mark_sarah's Avatar
    Limp mode!

    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Norwich
    Posts
    203

    Advice on removing secondary air pump please!

    I will be removing my Secondary Air pump, can anyone advice me, or give me a stupid proof guide to the removal procedure?

    Am i right in saying i have got to remove this? And this is where the Forge blanking plate goes?




    Has this pipe got to be blanked off, or re-routed?




    The pipe above goes to here, and then goes up to another part of the engine. There is also another pipe which is blanked off on this unit, should it be?




    The pipe that comes out of the unit above then goes here. Is this to be blanked?




    Before anyone comments on the state of the pipes, they have now been changed, as these seem to be the cause of some of my problems.
    It's better to burn up, than to fade away...

  2. # ADS
    ADS
    Join Date
    Always
    Location
    Global
    Posts
    Many
     
  3. #2
    Ross_S4

    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Dundee
    Posts
    718
    Why do you want to remove it?

  4. #3
    mark_sarah's Avatar
    Limp mode!

    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Norwich
    Posts
    203
    Because it has water dripping out of it, and it is registering a fault on Vag com.
    Seems cheaper to remove it..
    It's better to burn up, than to fade away...

  5. #4
    Imteyaz's Avatar
    6th Gear

    Status
    Online
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Warwickshire
    Posts
    526
    This link has some good pics and a decent write-up: http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...CV-EVAP-Delete
    Imteyaz.

  6. #5
    Ross_S4

    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Dundee
    Posts
    718
    http://www.audi-sport.net/vb/showthr...-removal-guide

    Struggling to see how there could be water dripping out of it though.

  7. #6
    mark_sarah's Avatar
    Limp mode!

    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Norwich
    Posts
    203
    Thanks to everyone that sent me links to help me remove the SAI pump ect.. Did it today and it was a doddle.

    However! Even though the fault code is no longer poping up, the problem with the irratic boost is still there. And it has thrown up 2 different fault codes!

    Starting to pea me off now, and help would be greatfully appreciated.
    It's better to burn up, than to fade away...

  8. #7
    Ross_S4

    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Dundee
    Posts
    718
    post up the fault codes you are getting.

  9. #8
    mark_sarah's Avatar
    Limp mode!

    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Norwich
    Posts
    203
    I re-scanned the car today, and ended up with more new faults:

    3 Faults Found:
    16795 - Secondary Air Injection System: Incorrect Flow Detected
    P0411 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
    16518 - Shareware Version. To Decode all DTCs
    P0134 - 35-10 - Please Register/Activate - Intermittent
    17521 - Shareware Version. To Decode all DTCs
    P1113 - 35-10 - Please Register/Activate - Intermittent
    Readiness: 0000 0000

    -------------------------------------------------------------------------------
    Address 35: Centr. Locks
    Controller: 8L0 862 257 P
    Component: CV-Pump, Alarm, RC D13
    Coding: 13130
    Shop #: WSC 00000
    11 Faults Found:
    01367 - Central Locking Pump Run Time Exceeded (Likely Leak)
    35-00 - -
    01371 - Shareware Version. To Decode all DTCs
    35-00 - Please Register/Activate
    01374 - Shareware Version. To Decode all DTCs
    35-00 - Please Register/Activate
    01370 - Alarm triggered by Interior Monitoring
    35-00 - -
    01369 - Shareware Version. To Decode all DTCs
    35-00 - Please Register/Activate
    01366 - Shareware Version. To Decode all DTCs
    35-00 - Please Register/Activate
    01365 - Lock/Unlock Switch: Interior
    29-00 - Short to Ground
    00955 - Shareware Version. To Decode all DTCs
    09-00 - Please Register/Activate
    00956 - Shareware Version. To Decode all DTCs
    09-00 - Please Register/Activate
    01134 - Alarm Horn (H12)
    76-00 - Terminal 30 missing
    01134 - Shareware Version. To Decode all DTCs
    49-00 - Please Register/Activate

    The SAI fault has now been rectified. The other faults are new to me..
    It's better to burn up, than to fade away...

  10. #9
    Neutral

    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Netherlands
    Posts
    33
    did you place a 330 ohm 10w resistor?

  11. #10
    Ross_S4

    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Dundee
    Posts
    718
    check out this link

    Will help you with the fault codes. had a quick look couldn't find some, maybe cause it is shareware version?
    try clearing them and then scan again to see what comes back up. you will be stuck with the SAI fault codes though.

  12. #11
    mark_sarah's Avatar
    Limp mode!

    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Norwich
    Posts
    203
    Cheers guys..

    Will try tomorrow.

    Have'nt put the resister in yet, ordering on friday.. skint..lol!
    It's better to burn up, than to fade away...

  13. #12
    mark_sarah's Avatar
    Limp mode!

    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Norwich
    Posts
    203
    Since i have removed the SAI, i have noticed the revs take a while to settle after the car is rev'd. I thought it was because my DV was shagged, but i replaced it today with a Forge replacement, but the rev's are still un-settled.

    Any ideas on what may be causing this?

    I have checked vag com, but it is still only throwing up the SAI fault becuse i am not able to wipe fault codes.
    It's better to burn up, than to fade away...

  14. #13
    Ross_S4

    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Dundee
    Posts
    718
    vacuum hose leaking?

  15. #14
    mark_sarah's Avatar
    Limp mode!

    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Norwich
    Posts
    203
    I need to clarify where this pipe is suppose to go, highlighted in red. At the moment this is just blanked off. Is it suppose to be connected elsewhere?

    It's better to burn up, than to fade away...

  16. #15
    Ross_S4

    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Dundee
    Posts
    718
    That is the vacuum feed to the N112 SAI solenoid mounted on the plate under the intake manifold next to dipstick tube.

    Since you have removed your SAI then it should just be blanked off.

  17. #16
    Neutral

    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Netherlands
    Posts
    33
    I made a pipe scheme before and after removal of the n249 and sai. If you wish i also have a n249 removed only scheme.
    Note i used this on my apy engine.

    http://www.audiforum.nl/forum/showro...tml#post941090

  18. #17
    6th Gear

    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Essex
    Posts
    2,366
    is the SAI the thing that ends up chattering on cold idle?

  19. #18
    mark_sarah's Avatar
    Limp mode!

    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Norwich
    Posts
    203
    Possibly.
    It's better to burn up, than to fade away...

  20. #19
    Welly's Avatar
    VX220 SC Driver :)

    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Gloucestershire
    Posts
    10,695
    Just remove the N249 assembly as well. Get rid of the jumble of pipes, and the vac chamber from the top of the engine.

    http://www.audi-sport.net/vb/showthr...-same-for-many

    Guide will help you.
    ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
    "Marriage is like a coffin and each kid is another nail."
    Homer Simpson





  21. #20
    ikbenben's Avatar
    Belgium S3 driver

    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Posts
    105
    Quote Originally Posted by Matt82 View Post
    is the SAI the thing that ends up chattering on cold idle?
    Mine also makes that sound on cold idle. Strangely I don't have the SAI pump ???
    2002 S3 BAM Nogaro Blue | Navigation + | Bose SS
    Samco TIP | Forge DV 007p | R32 ARB's | Powerflex dogbone bushes | H&R monotube coilovers
    waiting for a remap

  22. #21
    6th Gear

    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Essex
    Posts
    2,366
    Quote Originally Posted by ikbenben View Post
    Mine also makes that sound on cold idle. Strangely I don't have the SAI pump ???
    as in youve completely removed it?

  23. #22
    ikbenben's Avatar
    Belgium S3 driver

    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Posts
    105
    Quote Originally Posted by Matt82 View Post
    as in youve completely removed it?
    As in my car doesn't have it standard. Maybe the previous owner already removed it, i don't know.
    2002 S3 BAM Nogaro Blue | Navigation + | Bose SS
    Samco TIP | Forge DV 007p | R32 ARB's | Powerflex dogbone bushes | H&R monotube coilovers
    waiting for a remap

  24. #23
    Ross_S4

    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Dundee
    Posts
    718
    The chattering you are referring to sounds more like the evap solenoid. It is located on the charcoal canister next to power steering reservoir.

  25. #24
    6th Gear

    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Essex
    Posts
    2,366
    Quote Originally Posted by ikbenben View Post
    As in my car doesn't have it standard. Maybe the previous owner already removed it, i don't know.
    thats suprising. well after a bit more reading, it seems the SAI only functions below a certain temp, the light chatter i get on startup some times i think is from my cam chain. im cleaning the oil pick up this weekend and ill see how that goes

  26. #25
    5th Gear

    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    worcester
    Posts
    1,097
    yes, the sai is supposed to operate on first startup, pumping fresh cold around from the airbox straight to the exhaust system, lowering emissions, once the cat reaches a certain temp it shuts off, seeing as the newer engines (amk & bam) dont have the sai i assume that audi realised it was a waste of time and removed it

    when i removed mine the pump was full of water and grit and grass, chucking a code, replaced the wiring plug with a resistor, no codes, simples

    for anyone wondering about how it affects emissions, i had my mot done a few weeks back, sailed through emissions no problems

  27. #26
    From Show... to GO

    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Stafford
    Posts
    436
    i fancy having a go at this while my cars off the road, is it pretty easy?

  28. #27
    Andrew@A.L.D's Avatar
    Cylinder Head Master

    Status
    Online
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Leeds
    Posts
    3,470
    Quote Originally Posted by jonny87 View Post
    yes, the sai is supposed to operate on first startup, pumping fresh cold around from the airbox straight to the exhaust system, lowering emissions, once the cat reaches a certain temp it shuts off, seeing as the newer engines (amk & bam) dont have the sai i assume that audi realised it was a waste of time and removed it

    when i removed mine the pump was full of water and grit and grass, chucking a code, replaced the wiring plug with a resistor, no codes, simples

    for anyone wondering about how it affects emissions, i had my mot done a few weeks back, sailed through emissions no problems
    Same for me when i took it in for MOT i just made sure it was up to full working temperature and pass easy.
    RIP S3dave/David Marshall stickers now available

    FOR SALE
    None resonated Milltek exhaust,
    Adjustable FPR from 1-5 bar, 2 sets of Unused ARP 3/8 2000 rod bolts, relentless 200 cell cat pipe, Std AGU Crankshaft. Ported & Reconditioned Cylinder head service.

  29. #28
    From Show... to GO

    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Stafford
    Posts
    436
    Ok, going to remove the SAI pump tomorrow, i've read numerous guides etc, but just want to be 100% sure what im doing.

    So remove the pump, do i have to fit a resistor? if so what spec?
    remove the combi valve, do i have to remove the coolant neck pipe in order to fit the blanking plate? or should i leave the metal pipe connected and blank it at the top by the rocker cover?

    do i leave the n112 valve not plummed in to anything at all?
    does the hose now run from the top of the dumpvalve straight to the inlet mani?

    anything else i should know about or watch out for? its an APY engine
    cheers
    Jon

  30. #29
    From Show... to GO

    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Stafford
    Posts
    436
    Does it go in to the TIP? so i know whether i need to get something to block the TIP pipe

  31. #30
    Welly's Avatar
    VX220 SC Driver :)

    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Gloucestershire
    Posts
    10,695
    Quote Originally Posted by coyle View Post
    Ok, going to remove the SAI pump tomorrow, i've read numerous guides etc, but just want to be 100% sure what im doing.

    So remove the pump, do i have to fit a resistor? if so what spec? You don't have to - I felt mine unplugged completely and ignored the fault code that occasionally comes up. You can fit a resistor if you prefer though. Don't know what spec.
    remove the combi valve, do i have to remove the coolant neck pipe in order to fit the blanking plate? or should i leave the metal pipe connected and blank it at the top by the rocker cover? Buy a proper blanking plate for it from either Forge or Integrated Engineering. Alternatively, make one.

    do i leave the n112 valve not plummed in to anything at all? Yep, exactly that. Disconnect pipes, leave wired in.
    does the hose now run from the top of the dumpvalve straight to the inlet mani? Yes

    anything else i should know about or watch out for? its an APY engine Not really - the pump is a bit of a pain to get out is all.
    Points above ^^
    JudderMan likes this.
    ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
    "Marriage is like a coffin and each kid is another nail."
    Homer Simpson





  32. #31
    Welly's Avatar
    VX220 SC Driver :)

    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Gloucestershire
    Posts
    10,695
    Quote Originally Posted by coyle View Post
    Does it go in to the TIP? so i know whether i need to get something to block the TIP pipe
    Nope.
    ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
    "Marriage is like a coffin and each kid is another nail."
    Homer Simpson





  33. #32
    From Show... to GO

    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Stafford
    Posts
    436
    Ok great!
    Ive got my forge blanking plate. So when fitting it,do i fit it at the top by the rocker cover (like the pic suggests at the top of this thread?) or fit it on the engine hole itself, and if the latter do i need to remove any coolant pipes, as ive seen this in some threads but not others

  34. #33
    s3dave's Avatar
    TFSI Hybrid

    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    west yorks
    Posts
    10,121
    Are you doing a "how to" for the guys........?

  35. #34
    From Show... to GO

    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Stafford
    Posts
    436
    Theres so many of them, wellys done one, its just hard to put everything in place in your head.
    So just making sure and finding out whats what so i dont over complicate things

  36. #35
    beachbuggy's Avatar
    6th Gear

    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Surrey
    Posts
    1,745
    RESISTOR:

    If anyone is interested, you need to fit a resistor in order to keep the fault codes away.

    You need a 10w 330ohm resistor, but these are a little hard to get hold of, but a 10w 470Ohm resistor from Maplins will work just as well. cost is 69p. The resistor is quite large, place the two ends of the resistor in the plug socket and then wrap in insulating tape.

  37. #36
    S3 finatic's Avatar
    Limp mode

    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Norwich
    Posts
    68
    Previously mark_sarah

    The blank needs to go on the engine block, that is what its design for.
    Once I put the resisters in place, no more fault codes...
    Previously known as mark_sarah

  38. #37
    From Show... to GO

    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Stafford
    Posts
    436
    Ok, brilliant.do i have to remove the hoolant hose next to where the blanking plate goes to get access?

  39. #38
    S3 finatic's Avatar
    Limp mode

    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Norwich
    Posts
    68
    I did'nt need to, but it made it more fiddly.
    Previously known as mark_sarah

  40. #39
    From Show... to GO

    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Stafford
    Posts
    436
    I'll do my best to do it without,as dont want to lose my G12 which i only put in 2weeks ago when i changed my thermostat..

 

 

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Single Sign On provided by vBSSO

Garage Plus, Vendor Tools vBulletin Plugins by Drive Thru Online, Inc.

Content Relevant URLs by vBSEO