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  1. #1
    mark_sarah's Avatar
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    Fault code. Please help!

    I have recently noticed chatter from my standard DV, was told to Vag com it. I have, and it has sprung up the following fault code:

    1 Fault Found:
    16795 - Secondary Air Injection System: Incorrect Flow Detected
    P0411 35- 10 - - - Intermittent
    Can anyone clarify what this identifys?
    It's better to burn up, than to fade away...

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  3. #2
    Andrew@A.L.D's Avatar
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    Was 531bhp 8L S3 thats going to break the 600+ bhp Club then break something else. Lets see what this OD HTAGT3582r can do
    My S3 Twists Drive shafts for fun.

    FOR SALE
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    Adjustable FPR from 1-5 bar, 2 sets of Unused ARP 3/8 2000 rod bolts
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  4. #3
    mark_sarah's Avatar
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    Cheers Andrew.

    Has anyone completely removed this pump? And is it the best way to go?
    It's better to burn up, than to fade away...

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    I have noticed a small puddle of clean water under the front bumper right below the secondary air pump, and the missus just told me it's like that every morning, so looks like the secondary air pump has had it.

    What is the best thing to do? Repair it? Replace it? Or remove it?

    If i removed it, it would not be plugged in, so would it not keep throwing up faults?
    It's better to burn up, than to fade away...

  6. #5
    Welly's Avatar
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    I had this fault when I broke my N112 valve. This is the valve which controls the SAI system. It lives underneath the metal plate which supports the dipstick shroud on the front. Two pipes go to it, one from the N249 which is a vac feed, and the other one goes to the combi valve on the right hand side of the engine. The combi valve is silver, and part of it is what bolts to the head of the engine.

    The actual SAI pump is a massive beast that lives bolted via a bracket to the front of the engine.

    To be fair, either way is is fine, removal or replacement.

    Things to bear in mind.

    1) You will need a blanking plate to blank off the hole in the side of the head. Available from Forge - not cheap for what it is though.

    2) It is an absolute pain in the arse to remove. The pump, and the bracket which hold it on are a night mare to get off. You will also need to remove the N112 valve, and block off the vac feed from the N249.

    Depending on what you decide, I believe I still have my SAI pump and combi valve somewhere floating about in GWO if you need it.
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  7. #6
    Andrew@A.L.D's Avatar
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    I didn't know you had to block off the feed to the N249

    Witch feed do you have to block
    Was 531bhp 8L S3 thats going to break the 600+ bhp Club then break something else. Lets see what this OD HTAGT3582r can do
    My S3 Twists Drive shafts for fun.

    FOR SALE
    Sparco Torino 2 sport seats
    Adjustable FPR from 1-5 bar, 2 sets of Unused ARP 3/8 2000 rod bolts
    , relentless 200 cell cat pipe, Std AGU Crankshaft. Ported & Reconditioned Cylinder head service.

  8. #7
    mark_sarah's Avatar
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    I'm going to purchase a forge blanking plate and remove the pump, seems the best way to go.

    Anyone recommend best place to purchase this part?

    Anyone know of any links or pictures explaining the procedure to remove the N112 valve, and block off the vac feed from the N249?
    I'm mechanicley minded, but i''m still trying to get to know all the names of all the parts on the S3.
    It's better to burn up, than to fade away...

  9. #8
    mark_sarah's Avatar
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    After a had a really good look at the secondary Air Pump today i noticed that a couple of pipes have perished, so i have tempoarily replaced them.

    It was throwing up a fault code before, and i want to wipe it and see if the fault is still there. HOW do you reset/wipe the faults? The vag com cable and software i have will not allow me to reset/wipe.
    It's better to burn up, than to fade away...

  10. #9
    Welly's Avatar
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    Andrew,. I replied to your PM, but will post the link for the N249 bypass here: http://www.audi-sport.net/vb/showthr...-same-for-many)
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    "Marriage is like a coffin and each kid is another nail."
    Homer Simpson

    Quote Originally Posted by Prawn View Post
    Wellyboots, you are quite literally my most favourite pikey in the entire world




  11. #10
    mark_sarah's Avatar
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    I will be doing mine at the weekend so thanks Welly..
    Anyone know why you should'nt remove this??
    It's better to burn up, than to fade away...

  12. #11
    Andrew@A.L.D's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Welly View Post
    Andrew,. I replied to your PM, but will post the link for the N249 bypass here: http://www.audi-sport.net/vb/showthr...-same-for-many)
    Thanks but your still running the SAI and wanted to know what people were doing with the N112 valve when removed?

    I just repluged mine back up with no pipes on it
    Was 531bhp 8L S3 thats going to break the 600+ bhp Club then break something else. Lets see what this OD HTAGT3582r can do
    My S3 Twists Drive shafts for fun.

    FOR SALE
    Sparco Torino 2 sport seats
    Adjustable FPR from 1-5 bar, 2 sets of Unused ARP 3/8 2000 rod bolts
    , relentless 200 cell cat pipe, Std AGU Crankshaft. Ported & Reconditioned Cylinder head service.

  13. #12
    Welly's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Andrew@A.L.D View Post
    Thanks but your still running the SAI and wanted to know what people were doing with the N112 valve when removed?

    I just repluged mine back up with no pipes on it
    I'm not running SAI at all, Just didn't mention that in the guide due to having done afterwards. There is also an SAI removal guide in the same section of the forum......

    Mine is removed, and in the bin. I replaced the valve with an Intake Air Temp sensor, personally, just so that there is a current there. However most people use solenoids to replace the valve.

    You may get fault codes from the N112 valve if it is still plugged in and not actually doing anything.
    ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
    "Marriage is like a coffin and each kid is another nail."
    Homer Simpson

    Quote Originally Posted by Prawn View Post
    Wellyboots, you are quite literally my most favourite pikey in the entire world




  14. #13
    Welly's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mark_sarah View Post
    Anyone know why you should'nt remove this??
    I've never had any problems, nor have I heard of any occurring due to doing this. Mine has been done for 6 months at least.
    ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
    "Marriage is like a coffin and each kid is another nail."
    Homer Simpson

    Quote Originally Posted by Prawn View Post
    Wellyboots, you are quite literally my most favourite pikey in the entire world




  15. #14
    mark_sarah's Avatar
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    Well i will be doing mine at the weekend as i have already ordered the parts.

    I was told you can buy a resister to solder in place and this will stop the fault codes.

    I'm sure someone will correct me if i'm wrong.
    It's better to burn up, than to fade away...

  16. #15
    Welly's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mark_sarah View Post
    Well i will be doing mine at the weekend as i have already ordered the parts.

    I was told you can buy a resister to solder in place and this will stop the fault codes.

    I'm sure someone will correct me if i'm wrong.
    Yes you can, but I wouldn't. I always leave the valve there, just disconnected from the pipework personally.

    Resistors can get VERY hot.
    ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
    "Marriage is like a coffin and each kid is another nail."
    Homer Simpson

    Quote Originally Posted by Prawn View Post
    Wellyboots, you are quite literally my most favourite pikey in the entire world




 

 

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