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  1. #1
    Danny Cawsey's Avatar
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    Brakes not Breaks

    Hi all,

    Ive ordered some Mintex rear discs and pads as was just woundering how hard it is to change the pads,

    does it mean re bleeding the lines?
    Last edited by Broken Byzan; 23rd April 2010 at 07:55.

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  3. #2
    sportquattro's Avatar
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    Its a fairly easy job, just unbolt the calliper, remove the pads, use a G-Clamp to push the piston back in, fit the new pads, refit the calliper, check all bolts are secure, and then carefully bed in the new pads. Unless you have removed the callipers from the brake lines you shouldnt need to bleed them. Note however you may need to remove some brake fluid if the old pads were very worn as when you push the pistons back they will displace fluid into the reservoir.

    Hope this helps.

    Nige
    1999 Audi S3 Superchips remap, Forge 007p, Phatnoise, Black Diamond Discs & DS2500 pads, N249 Deleted, Badger 5 TIP, Poly dogbone bush, Bilstein B8's and Eibach Springs.

    1986 Audi Coupe Quattro 2.2 restoration project

  4. #3
    www.badger5.co.uk

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    you need to screw the piston in whilst pushing it in

    caliper wind back tools available from good motor factors

    no need to bleed the system to change disks/pads
    check fluid resevoir level aint brimmed before pushing the pistons back in (the fluid has to return somewhere!!)
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  5. #4
    Speedy Steve's Avatar
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    I highly recommend going to halfrauds and buying the caliper tool as its a mare to wind the piston back in on the rear. Its a Laser universal tool and saved me lots of head aches after spending 3 hours trying to do it without!
    Ive been Badger 5'd

    Can we break the magic 300?????? In a word Yes 314 BHP 249 lbft at Badger 5

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    steves is way quicker than any stock turbo'd s3 i have driven
    I only date skinny Women! They keep my power to weight higher...

  6. #5
    Welly's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Speedy Steve View Post
    I highly recommend going to halfrauds and buying the caliper tool as its a mare to wind the piston back in on the rear. Its a Laser universal tool and saved me lots of head aches after spending 3 hours trying to do it without!
    I've got a Draper one which has also been fantastic. Well worth the money IMO.
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  7. #6
    JD09's Avatar
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    Will be doing this myself soon.

    Stupid question, how does the winding tool work?

  8. #7
    1animal1's Avatar
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    it screws the piston in...how'd ya think
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  9. #8
    JD09's Avatar
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    Pipe down you Cruising for a bruising when I see you at JBS!

  10. #9
    1animal1's Avatar
    The Clar!! it mouves!!!

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    oh theres an incentive to turn up
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  11. #10
    JD09's Avatar
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    Ha.

    Anyone heard of APEC brakes?

  12. #11
    DaveA3's Avatar
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    yeh i had apec brakes from motorserv on my old pug. They were crap heat fade after medium braking. I thought i werent actually gonna stop at times!

    Audi A3 1.8T Sport (AGU) - 2000
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  13. #12
    JD09's Avatar
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    Glad I've not gone down that route then.

    Still have an issue. I want the front and rear brakes to look the same, so think I will just have to buy Black Diamond rear discs, since I will be buying those on the front as well. OCD is expensive.

  14. #13
    1animal1's Avatar
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    depends, you do know the black diamond discs dont stay black dont you
    Xbox 360 gamer ID : Timffy

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  15. #14
    JD09's Avatar
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    Yeah, but I want the design to be the same. Tim, you're usually worse than me. You should know! What are you running lad, Brembos?

  16. #15
    1animal1's Avatar
    The Clar!! it mouves!!!

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    OEM is the way to go unless you brake too late often
    Xbox 360 gamer ID : Timffy

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  17. #16
    Danny Cawsey's Avatar
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    cheers guys for the info, will pop down to halfords in the morning.

 

 

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