rear speakers / AMP problems ahhh need help

[Dj0gt0]

Hi,
my rear speakers and amp arent working which i later found out, from this site it was to do with the
little amp in the sub box, so got onto audi today and they no longer sell this peice, tried two other local good audio places and they where clueless ,
i heard it was only a small 2x18w , could it be replaced with something similar
help help help , doing my head in only having front speakers
cheers
its a 2001 A3 quattro

 

[AARON77]

kmow how frustrated you are ive no front speakers???? changed the head unit a couple of times but still know joy ill be keeping an eye on this thread!! good luck ma friend

 

[AndyMac]

It's a piece of garbage which can be picked up for about £20-£30 on ebay, and that's for the whole enclosure including the amp. Audi would charge you £130 for this rubbish.
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/AUDI-A3-SUBWO...arts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM?hash=item4a9fa7f37d

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Audi-A3-subwo...arts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM?hash=item3eff01eeb2

Aaron, if you have no front speakers and they are connected correctly, have you made sure the HU has it's internal amp switched on? The internal front amp inside the HU can be switched off using VAGCOM, so if the HU was from a Bose equipped car then this is the likely cause.

 

[s3_stig]

Andymac am I wright I thinking your the man who has made your own sub and amp in one and you sell this product
thanks will

 

[AndyMac]

Yes that's me, details here:
http://www.dizzythedog.com/index.php?f=data_audi_a3_stealth_sub&a=0

 

[Dj0gt0]

thank you thank you thank you
do i have to take all the plastic off to get to it ???
found your guide AndyMac last night on how to do it, cheers for that
just a bit daunted by it looking a big job , how long does it take
thanks for the help

 

[AndyMac]

To just swap out the stock sub takes about an hour. You don't have to strip it down to the same degree as the stealth sub install as you are not installing an additional amp behind the rear speaker panel. Just removing the boot sill trim & cargo anchors will give you enough room to prise off the boot panel enough to get to the sub. It is held in with 3 nuts and the loom which is clipped along the top. Remove these and you can wrestle it out and fit the new one.

 

[luckydave]

Andymac you pm box is full

 

[S3 Paul]

Hi,
Erm my drivers door speaker sounds pants when the weather is cold ( or in the morning as wierd as it may sound )
Its sounds like its on its way out.
Can you still buy the bose items?
Im using the bose set up with a Alpine dvd headunit and a JL sub in the boot ( stock sub is disconected )
or should i upgrade? i dont want to have anything on show, so they need to fit correctly behind the grills.

 

[s3_stig]

Andymac I defo want to your set up in the next month

 

[AndyMac]

I have space in my InBox now, missing those gauges that used to tell you when you were getting low!

S3 Paul, it's more likely the Bose amp is shot, they really suffer with dry solder joints over time, and that's why it only occurs when it is cold. Once warmed up the connections are btter and the crackle goes away. If you are OK handling a soldering iron, remove the amp, take out the PCB and using a solder sucker remove the old solder from all the main components and resolder. Works practically everytime.
You can still pick up the speakers on ebay occasionally, but if the problem goes away when the system has warmed up it is very unlikely to be the speaker. Check to see if the crackling comes from both the woofer and the tweeter. As they run off the same channel on the amp. If it's present on both then it has to be the amp.

 

[S3 Paul]

Am i right in thinking in my car 2001 face lift S3 the amp is in the drivers side rear panel in the boot?
ive repaired "dry joints" before. i remember just rewarming the solder to repair the break?
I will check if its woofer or woofer and tweeter next time it happens
Many thanks

 

[AndyMac]

Yes, you have to remove the boot sill trim, and cargo anchor in order to prise out the boot side trim in order to get to the amp as there is a bolt right down low securing the amp behind the trim. The trim is just held to the bodywork with metal spring clips, so just brute force will release it enough to get to the amp.