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Guys dont know if its been done? but here is a how too for those who dont know..... (s3 8l )
First take a look at the pic, the car has not been lowered much, maybe 25mm (thanks jojo) and you can see the camber!!
These adjustable arms combat the camber....
So lets get started, i am fitting my camber link (in pic) they are also available from forge awsome etc....
I am doing one side at a time...Start by undoing the wheel bolts slightly, then jack up the car, and secure on an axle stand... remove wheel and this is what you see..
Ive opted for doing the top link, as i think it puts less stress on the driveshafts... it is the roundish looking thing...
you can just see the other end in this pic...
now you need an 18mm socket and an 18mm ring spanner, just saves it getting chewed up, and undo the big rose joint...
Now you need to get you head in the wheel well, or you can get it from underneath, and undo the inboard mount, you may have to take the subframe mount bolt out, as there just is not enough room for the bolt to pass.. mine came out suprisingly easy tbh....
Next get a large screwdriver and manipulate the outer arm over the rose joint....easy
It should just pull out now from the inner joint saddle.... smile your half way there...on this side,...
NOW what i did was line the holes up on the new one with the old one, (just so you know it is going to end up as you started, before adjustment), and the adjustable ones could be miles out...in transportation etc.
Get your new adjustable arm, and feed it into the inner saddle and line the holes up, if it is tight just spray a bit of lube around the saddle...put the bolt in and put the nut on.. dont tighten at this stage, put the subframe bolt back in and torque it up.
Next put the outer bracket on to the rose joint, put the bolt in and tighten the nut (not overly tight just so it is nipped)
Tighten the innerbolt the same (just nipped) then replace wheel , and lower to the ground, torque your wheel bolts, you can now rejack on the suspension or put some blocks under the wheel and rejack, and let it down on the blocks, and tighten the bolts to the specified torque, (if you have access to a ramp or pitt it is easy and you dont need to raise it again....)
The adjuster is accecable for your wheel alignment guy or yourself and is very easy ..to adjust and lockup
I pulled my camber back by eye until i get an alignment done, but its up to you of course, if you ligned it up with the old one it should be no better or worse than when you touched it ...
Have a cuppa/cig and then get cracking on the other side.....
Remember safety first, these bolts can be tight so please dont rely on a crappy side jack !!
any comments/critisism welcome,
tools requiered
1 x 18mm socket
1 x 18mm ring spanner
large screwdriver
lube
jack and stands
coffee
ciggies (if you smoke)
Regards Dave
First take a look at the pic, the car has not been lowered much, maybe 25mm (thanks jojo) and you can see the camber!!
These adjustable arms combat the camber....
So lets get started, i am fitting my camber link (in pic) they are also available from forge awsome etc....
I am doing one side at a time...Start by undoing the wheel bolts slightly, then jack up the car, and secure on an axle stand... remove wheel and this is what you see..
Ive opted for doing the top link, as i think it puts less stress on the driveshafts... it is the roundish looking thing...
you can just see the other end in this pic...
now you need an 18mm socket and an 18mm ring spanner, just saves it getting chewed up, and undo the big rose joint...
Now you need to get you head in the wheel well, or you can get it from underneath, and undo the inboard mount, you may have to take the subframe mount bolt out, as there just is not enough room for the bolt to pass.. mine came out suprisingly easy tbh....
Next get a large screwdriver and manipulate the outer arm over the rose joint....easy
It should just pull out now from the inner joint saddle.... smile your half way there...on this side,...
NOW what i did was line the holes up on the new one with the old one, (just so you know it is going to end up as you started, before adjustment), and the adjustable ones could be miles out...in transportation etc.
Get your new adjustable arm, and feed it into the inner saddle and line the holes up, if it is tight just spray a bit of lube around the saddle...put the bolt in and put the nut on.. dont tighten at this stage, put the subframe bolt back in and torque it up.
Next put the outer bracket on to the rose joint, put the bolt in and tighten the nut (not overly tight just so it is nipped)
Tighten the innerbolt the same (just nipped) then replace wheel , and lower to the ground, torque your wheel bolts, you can now rejack on the suspension or put some blocks under the wheel and rejack, and let it down on the blocks, and tighten the bolts to the specified torque, (if you have access to a ramp or pitt it is easy and you dont need to raise it again....)
The adjuster is accecable for your wheel alignment guy or yourself and is very easy ..to adjust and lockup
I pulled my camber back by eye until i get an alignment done, but its up to you of course, if you ligned it up with the old one it should be no better or worse than when you touched it ...
Have a cuppa/cig and then get cracking on the other side.....
Remember safety first, these bolts can be tight so please dont rely on a crappy side jack !!
any comments/critisism welcome,
tools requiered
1 x 18mm socket
1 x 18mm ring spanner
large screwdriver
lube
jack and stands
coffee
ciggies (if you smoke)
Regards Dave