Volks AutosAH Fabrications
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  1. #1
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    Look at this only the audi brainers modified parts

    Hi guys found this on ebay and just wondard if this is gonna fit on my audi a3 1.8t 1998 agu engine

    Only asking due to people saying there is a fer different ones out there help would be great as i want to buy it

    http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/octavia-forge-...item439e52cec2

    Also he has a downpipe air filter and wanna no if its gonna make any differnce in proformance as i have a pipercross panel filter thanks alot Lewis

    http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/octavia-vrs-Co...item439e52b730

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  3. #2
    Lemon S3's Avatar
    Alex

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    Wouldn't bother mate, you can get a new tip for about the same price if not a little bit more.

    I don't rate those air filter pipes, you're better off just getting a decent panel filter for the original air box.
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  4. #3
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    Can u let me no were i can get this new tip from Cheers mate will it be forge to

  5. #4
    S3KO4's Avatar
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    Thats a good price..
    S3-8L REVO stage 2, Milltek, 3" DP & custom 3" decat, RS2 spark plugs, 4 bar FPR, Green-Cotton uprated upper/lower boost hose & TIP, Front Zimmerman & Ferrodo. LCR spliter. boost gauge, smoothed AB. Aero blades, H&R 5mm spacers. Best time 14.03sec, 0-62 in 5.7sec. 207gs @ 25psi , polished inlet mani. VAGCOM 805.1

  6. #5
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    Good price for what,the forge silicone or the air filter

  7. #6
    finesse's Avatar
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    No just get a good panel filter and save your self the 0.356% bhp increase
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  8. #7
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    will the silicone fit my car ? and is it worth the price or should i go for the down pipe first ?

  9. #8
    S3KO4's Avatar
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    I wasn't clear!, the forge TIP that is a good value for what it is. it does help in reducing colaps if you are running higher boost.
    S3-8L REVO stage 2, Milltek, 3" DP & custom 3" decat, RS2 spark plugs, 4 bar FPR, Green-Cotton uprated upper/lower boost hose & TIP, Front Zimmerman & Ferrodo. LCR spliter. boost gauge, smoothed AB. Aero blades, H&R 5mm spacers. Best time 14.03sec, 0-62 in 5.7sec. 207gs @ 25psi , polished inlet mani. VAGCOM 805.1

  10. #9
    1animal1's Avatar
    The Clar!! it mouves!!!

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    although collapsed TIPs only affects a small minority of TT's - nobody on here ive ever seen has experienced a collapsed TIP.....only ever seen it via Forge/Awesome who just happen to sell TIPs on the back of the vid
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  11. #10
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    that induction kit will cause you greef in the wet... if you like your engine and you dont want to use it as a puddle hoover then steer clear of it.

    keep your eyes on this forum in the week as my custom induction parts will be arriving! same princable but alot mot more maths and thought gone into it. No heat soak, and no water sucking guarenteed.

    Now to many mods to list! Lots of power, torque and Leather!

  12. #11
    S3KO4's Avatar
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    I am learning here as well, but was wondering if collaps is not an issue, why would high performance turbo engine go for metal TIP pipes not even high ply hoses?
    S3-8L REVO stage 2, Milltek, 3" DP & custom 3" decat, RS2 spark plugs, 4 bar FPR, Green-Cotton uprated upper/lower boost hose & TIP, Front Zimmerman & Ferrodo. LCR spliter. boost gauge, smoothed AB. Aero blades, H&R 5mm spacers. Best time 14.03sec, 0-62 in 5.7sec. 207gs @ 25psi , polished inlet mani. VAGCOM 805.1

  13. #12
    1animal1's Avatar
    The Clar!! it mouves!!!

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    i think i can decipher what your asking

    nobody on here has a metal TIP, actually tell a lie, one person i know has had one custom made (tufts? who has big turbo) - they simply arent needed which is why Forge sell 4 ply (im sure its 4 or 5) - if you think the only thing creating pressure in the TIP is the filter which will stop the air coming in (or slow it down rather), its not a closed loop pipe as it feeds from atmosphere via the air filter
    Xbox 360 gamer ID : Timffy

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  14. #13
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    Ok, So you are saying it makes more sense to have a better flowing air filter rather than splashing out on changing the TIP? if so I think it makes a bit more sense now. Some people mention the collapse is only visible when the engine has load on it. and this is hard to prove since not all of us have access to a roller to test it out, so what would you say to that? don't get me wrong, I would love to save a up on things that have not gains.
    S3-8L REVO stage 2, Milltek, 3" DP & custom 3" decat, RS2 spark plugs, 4 bar FPR, Green-Cotton uprated upper/lower boost hose & TIP, Front Zimmerman & Ferrodo. LCR spliter. boost gauge, smoothed AB. Aero blades, H&R 5mm spacers. Best time 14.03sec, 0-62 in 5.7sec. 207gs @ 25psi , polished inlet mani. VAGCOM 805.1

  15. #14
    <tuffty/>'s Avatar
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    Beyond a remap there is very little than can be bolted on that give any gains at all power wise... all most of these things do is improve reliability and enhance the availability of the performance we all ready have from the engines... FMIC is a classic example of this...

    <tuffty/>
    Silver 2001 AMK S3. Silver alcantara interior... now with added powarrrrrrrr, torques. VAGCOM + KII-USB. >> My build thread...

  16. #15
    ALPINE's Avatar
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    tuffty hit the nail on the head. The most you can do with bolt on parts is increase the responce of your car etc, silly things like, cleaning your throttle body, general maintenance. Tho i will have to say there is documented vag com proof that the smoothed air box mod gives you both torque and bhp gains, heance me trying my air filter/induction thingy. Vag com will say if that works or not.

    The best advice i could think to give is, get all ya funky bits like ya inductions, TIPs, down pipes, zorsts ,FMIC`s and then as tuffty says, get it mapped! correct me if im wrong but you will affectivly have a stage 2 map then.

    Now to many mods to list! Lots of power, torque and Leather!

  17. #16
    <tuffty/>'s Avatar
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    Stage 2 maps are designed to take advantage of the supporting mods... stage 1 maps are generic for a particular car and are designed to work within the bounds of the std cars setup such as OEM exhaust, SMIC's etc...

    Stage 2 will allow you to have a little more boost or timing advance as FMICs do a better job at keeping IAT's down which means the ECU won't pull any timing advance added... timing advance is like free power... Larger downpipes keep the EGT's down allowing everything to run cooler and the ECU doesn't have to add fuel in when it thinks things are getting hot which kills performance..

    This is why you tend to get more power from a stage 2 map as the mods down allow the power to be dialled in.

    Adding stuff like FMIC, DP etc won't give you stage 2 power though but it all helps in keeping the power you have from disappearing from heat soak...

    Adding silicon hoses, TIPs and even Forge dump valves won't add to the power but will make everything hold together better...

    <tuffty/>
    Silver 2001 AMK S3. Silver alcantara interior... now with added powarrrrrrrr, torques. VAGCOM + KII-USB. >> My build thread...

  18. #17
    Welly's Avatar
    VX220 SC Driver :)

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    Quote Originally Posted by tufftybloke View Post
    Stage 2 maps are designed to take advantage of the supporting mods... stage 1 maps are generic for a particular car and are designed to work within the bounds of the std cars setup such as OEM exhaust, SMIC's etc...

    Stage 2 will allow you to have a little more boost or timing advance as FMICs do a better job at keeping IAT's down which means the ECU won't pull any timing advance added... timing advance is like free power... Larger downpipes keep the EGT's down allowing everything to run cooler and the ECU doesn't have to add fuel in when it thinks things are getting hot which kills performance..

    This is why you tend to get more power from a stage 2 map as the mods down allow the power to be dialled in.

    Adding stuff like FMIC, DP etc won't give you stage 2 power though but it all helps in keeping the power you have from disappearing from heat soak...

    Adding silicon hoses, TIPs and even Forge dump valves won't add to the power but will make everything hold together better...

    <tuffty/>
    Doooode, I was waiting for the party line 'Every little helps'.... But it never came. .

    Increased power normally comes with decreased reliability - as you are starting to push the OEM components PAST their original design specs.

    Uprating items like the TIP and OEM DV are worth it in the long run IMO. Both common points of failure on cars that have been remapped.
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